In February, 2006, The Wall Street Journal embarked on a quest for the perfect nachos. Taking recommendations from several highly credentialed chefs and other chile cognoscenti, the Journal visited restaurants anointed by those sages and compiled an exclusive list showcasing the fifteen best nachos in America. El Pinto’s nachos were among them. The Journal described El Pinto’s nachos as “built like lasagna, one layer at a time, so no chip is cheeseless: first chips, then cheese (Cheddar and Monterrey Jack), until there’s a pyramid topped with sour cream, guacamole, lettuce, tomato, chicken (or beef or pork) and green chili sauce.”
Alas, no “good deed” goes unpunished. El Pinto and its celebrated nachos became fodder for the Albuquerque Journal‘s brilliant columnist Leslie Linthicum when she compiled her hilarious “Cowchip Awards” for 2006. The Cowchip Awards, a compilation of the foibles and foul-ups which make the news during the course of a year, tend to skew heavily toward politicians and criminals (not necessarily mutually exclusive). El Pinto’s transgression was touting its nachos as the best in America because they were listed first among the honorees. It turns out the nachos were listed in alphabetical order. As Leslie noted it “pays to start with an “E.””
Not mentioned in the Journal’s review is the sheer physical magnitude of the nachos. The nachos are served in a platter big enough for the Thanksgiving turkey and they’re stacked mountain high: tostadas topped with Cheddar and Monterrey Jack cheese, pinto beans, guacamole, sour cream, El Pinto’s green chile and fresh-cut jalapenos (you can also add beef, chicken or pork for a fee). According to the menu, the nacho platter serves four, but even four Lobo football players might cry “no mas” after lustily consuming their fill. Perhaps the only thing at El Pinto’s nearly as sizeable as the nachos is the restaurant itself.
El Pinto’s is among, if not, the most commodious restaurants in New Mexico with seating for over 1,000 diners in several dining rooms as well as an expansive hacienda-style patio area for seasonal dining. With all the ground they have to cover, rarely do the strolling mariachis ever make it to the same dining room twice an evening (especially if the tipping at one dining room is generous). Despite its expanse, the restaurant operates with seemingly synchronized efficiency, the wait staff well practiced in serving large crowds. Long waits are virtually non-existent.
Nestled among centuries-old cottonwood trees, El Pinto also has one of the most attractive restaurant settings in the state. The rambling walled garden is shaded by stately trees and trumpet vines and is adorned with roses. Murmurations of intrepid starlings take refuge among the trees but as soon as a patio table is vacated, they leave their lofty perches and scavenge for left-overs. Once sated, they slake their thirsts out of the continuously recirculating multi-level fountains. It’s feathered entertainment while you dine. (Just in case the environmental department reads this, we’re not talking Alfred Hitchcock’s The Birds here, just a few starlings.)
The restaurant’s interior is also impressive with waterfalls cascading down impressive rockscapes, rivulets creating a relaxing cadence. The lounge and the restaurant’s garden room are akin to an oasis in the desert with lush foliage and hanging plants helping to create a relaxing verdant milieu. Traditional trappings abound in nearly every corner and walls are adorned with beautiful art pieces. Framed photographs of the glitterati who have dined at El Pinto can be seen on walls throughout the restaurant, in many cases glad-handing with the restaurant’s affable owners (local celebrities themselves).
El Pinto was launched by Hatch, New Mexico natives Jack and Consuelo Thomas in 1962 using recipes perfected by Connie’s grandmother Josephina Chavez-Griggs. The Griggs restaurant legacy spans much of the Rio Grande corridor with family members owning or having owned and operated restaurants in El Paso and the Las Cruces area (including the world-famous La Posta de Mesilla). In 1989, twin brothers John and Jim Thomas bought El Pinto from their parents, expanding it as their customer base grew.
Today, El Pinto’s customer base includes both political dignitaries (including “Dubya,” Sarah Palin and Barack Obama) and Hollywood glitterati (including Pamela Anderson and Mel Gibson), but it’s the local patrons who remain steadfastly loyal. When they want to impress out-of-town guests, locals invariably bring them to El Pinto and wow them with the ambiance. Locals also know that anything more piquant than Chef Boyardee sauce is beyond the heat tolerance of most out-of-towners and El Pinto’s serves chile many locals consider “anglicized,” meaning it packs little (if any) heat.
El Pinto’s fame extends far beyond the Land of Enchantment and its credibility as a purveyor of New Mexico chile is well-established. It’s the site at which the competing teams squaring off in the New Mexico Bowl hold a chile cooking competition. It’s a wonderful venue for such events, not only because of its capacious space, but its expertise in the hospitality arena. Frankly no one does it better. El Pinto has also long been a favorite host of corporate team-building, both formal and informal. Large tables of nattily attired corporate executives entertaining their clients at El Pinto is commonplace.
El Pinto is also the restaurant of choice for New Mexican and Mexican food related television programming. In a 2006 Food Network program called “The Secret Life of Fiery Foods,” host Jim O’Connor noted El Pinto as “a restaurant famous for its fiery foods” as he reveled in sampling various dishes with New Mexico’s Dave DeWitt, publisher of Fiery Foods magazine and renown chile expert. More recently, in 2010 “everyman” host Bobby Bognar and a History Channel crew visited El Pinto to film an episode on Mexican food for the cable network’s Food Tech show.
The Food Tech program highlighted the painstaking process of making and bottling salsa, showcasing El Pinto’s famous brand. The restaurant’s salsa, while not the most piquant salsa in town, is among the Duke City’s most flavorful and best of all, it’s available at just about every grocery store in the Albuquerque area. During ESPN Sports Center’s “50 States in 50 Days” visit to El Pinto in August, 2005, anchor extraordinaire Linda Cohn called El Pinto’s salsa “the best in the nation.” That salsa, and in fact, several items on the El Pinto menu, are held in especially high esteem by readers of Albuquerque The Magazine. In its September, 2012 edition, Albuquerque The Magazine named the salsa at El Pinto the eighth best in Albuquerque from among 130 salsas sampled throughout the city.
In its annual “best of the city” awards issue for 2010, the magazine’s readers indicated the city’s best green chile and guacamole emanate from El Pinto. The green chile is a “heritage crop version of an archived seed.” El Pinto handles that chile from “farm to plate,” going through a whopping 300-400 tons of chile per year (or about 4,000 cases a day). The guacamole is made from California-grown Haas avocados at their prime of buttery ripeness. It’s a simple guacamole crafted with salt, fresh onion, and the restaurant’s salsa.
Albuquerque The Magazine readers have selected El Pinto as the Duke City’s very best New Mexican restaurant on several occasions. In 2010, it was a runner-up in that category as were the restaurant’s chips and salsa, red chile, tacos, sopaipillas and wait staff. Not surprisingly, El Pinto was also voted Albuquerque’s best restaurant for patio dining. No slouch in the adult beverages department, its margaritas were also a runner-up for best of the city honors. Lots of love was imparted to El Pinto by readers of The Alibi during that publication’s 2010 “best of” edition. The Alibi‘s readers gave El Pinto the nod in the categories of “best place to take out-of-town guests,” “best atmosphere,” and “best outdoor dining, but the restaurant was only bridesmaid in a few categories actually related to food.
As the feedback section for this review attests, readers of Gil’s Thrilling (And Filling) Blog seem to have a different opinion of El Pinto than the teeming masses who congregate frequently at the “peoples’ choice” restaurant. Years have proven my readers to be a discerning lot not prone to hyperbole (mine or anyone else’s) or popular opinion. My own opinion of El Pinto is in the camp of those discriminating dissenters who read my reviews. Multitudinous visits over the years haven’t won me over. Despite the festive and fun atmosphere, for me it’s all about the food and that’s where El Pinto doesn’t quite measure up to so many other New Mexican favorites.
Attribute some of that to me being a purist weaned on chile piquant enough to put whiskers on a toddler’s face. I have tremendous respect for the meticulous attention to detail paid by El Pinto to its time-honored and traditional heritage and I marvel at the efficiency of its operation, but have been, time after time, underwhelmed by the restaurant’s culinary offerings–and it’s not just the piquancy factor. During my most recent visit, a corporate event, an otherwise potentially very good green chile was plated with boiled tomatoes that wholly detracted from the chile’s native sweetness. The con queso was thickened by either flour or corn starch to the point that the queso and chile were secondary in the dish’s flavor profile.
My favorite entree on El Pinto’s menu is the green chile queso burger. When I order green chile cheeseburgers instead of New Mexican food at a New Mexican restaurant, it’s not necessarily an indication that the green chile cheeseburger is that good. More than likely, it’s an indication that I’m tired of being disappointed by more conventional New Mexican entrees. In the case of the green chile queso burger, it actually is pretty good–a charbroiled eight-ounce ground chuck patty smothered with blended queso, “hot” green chile, sweet onion pickled relish, bibbed lettuce and tomato served with a wheat or white bun.
What’s not to like about that burger? Well, if you’re prone to Felix Unger standards of cleanliness, you might not like the fact that this is a messy burger with the unctuous, oozing queso dripping copiously onto your hands. Otherwise, it’s quite good. The charbroiled beef, prepared at medium-well unless otherwise requested, is excellent and the marriage of green chile and sweet onion pickled relish establishes a unique flavor profile that accentuates both the sweetness and the piquancy (slight, despite the menu’s claim that “hot” chile is used on this burger) of the chile. This is a burger I’ll order again…and again.
There are other items on the voluminous menu that won’t disappoint. The complementary sopaipillas are indeed some of the very best in town and they arrive at your table at the peak of just-out-of-the-fryer warm. On the stuffed sopaipilla entree, the sopiaipillas, served two to an entree, are the highlight of an otherwise average plate. The stuffed sopaipillas are engorged with red or green chile, beans and your choice of beef, chicken or pork garnished with lettuce, tomatoes and cheese. This prodigious platter is one of the restaurant’s most popular entrees.
Then there’s the dessert tray which includes flan, an empanada with ice cream and other sweet tooth treats sure to please anyone. An interestingly named post-prandial offering is the levantate which translates from Spanish to “get up.” This sweet treat features biscochitos soaked in Tia Maria, Kahlua and coffee, layered with mascarpone cheese, a light whipped cream and coconut. It’s an interesting and delicious take on New Mexico’s official state cookie, the beloved biscochito.
In its annual Food & Wine issue for 2012, Albuquerque The Magazine awarded El Pinto a Hot Plate Award signifying the selection of its blue corn blueberry pancakes as one of the “most interesting, special and tasty dishes around.” Considering the thousands of potential selections, to be singled out is quite an honor. Alas, the blue corn blueberry pancakes are available for only four hours a week (10AM to 2PM on Sunday).
El Pinto is on the New Mexico Tourism Department’s “Culinary Treasures Trail,” an initiative which honors those rare and precious family-owned-and-operated gems operating continuously since at least December 31st, 1969. As with all the restaurants on the list, El Pinto is an independent mom-and-pop restaurant which has stood the test of time to become beloved institutions in their neighborhoods and beyond.
10500 4th Street, N.W.
LATEST VISIT: 27 April 2012
# OF VISITS: 11
BEST BET: Green Chile Queso Burger, Nachos, Salsa & Chips, Sopaipillas