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La Fonda Del Bosque – Albuquerque, New Mexico

La Fonda Del Bosque within the sprawling National Hispanic Cultural Center

In the millennium year, after years of planning and lobbying, the dream was finally realized of a haven  dedicated to the preservation, promotion, and advancement of Hispanic culture, arts, and humanities. In 2000, the National Hispanic Cultural Center (NHCC), launched along the Camino Real in the Albuquerque’s historic Barela’s neighborhood.  The Center is an architectural anomaly in a largely adobe-hued area, its unique structures including a renovated hacienda-style school, a stylized Mayan pyramid with interior elements modeled on Romanesque architecture and a torreon (tower) housing a 4,000 square foot concave fresco depicting over 3,000 years of Hispanic history.

Ironically the complex chartered to preserve, protect and promote Hispanic culture had to displace several families, thereby disenfranchising some of the very families who embody the Hispanic culture in Albuquerque.  One resident–the late Adela Martinez–stared down bureaucrats and made them blink, refusing to move.  The forty-million dollar Cultural Center had to be redesigned to accommodate her family in the home she moved into in the 1920s.  Today, her family’s two small houses stand out, not like a sore thumb, but as a testament to the courage of one 80-year old Hispanic woman whose treasured memories were worth much more than the monetary treasures government offered.

fondadelbosque02

The home of Adela Martinez, a New Mexico treasure

Since November, 2000, the converted Barelas Elementary School on the sprawling NHCC complex has served as the home of La Fonda Del Bosque, a stylish 280-seat restaurant.    La Fonda, which translates from Spanish to “The Inn” almost immediately garnered recognition.  Within three years of its launch,  Hispanic magazine named it one of the 50 best Hispanic restaurants in the United States for two consecutive years (2003 and 2004).  It was also named one of Gourmet Magazine’s “Best Kept Secrets.” A higher compliment is that many locals love it, too, especially during the Sunday brunch when they can sample a greater bounty of Hispanic favorites.

Over the years, a number of catering and restaurant management companies have tried their hand at running La Fonda Del Bosque.  The most recent to take the helm is A KayTahRing Company which began operating the restaurant in June, 2012.  After several years of serving New Mexican food, the new operators are taking the restaurant in a new direction, showcasing “flavors, cooking styles and ingredients from the 27 countries comprising Central and South America and the Latino Caribbean islands” according to the restaurant’s Web site.

Dining Room at La Fonda Del Bosque

La Fonda is open for breakfast and lunch as well as for brunch on Sundays. Dinner is served only for special events when the upscale milieu really shines.   While the menu offerings may have a Latin fusion flair, the ambiance at La Fonda Del Bosque is most decidedly Southwestern with a pronounced New Mexican influence.  The centerpiece of the dining room is a wood-burning fireplace that may make you wish it was winter so you could imbibe the aromas of piñon wood.  On bright New Mexican summer days, the  tinwork light fixtures aren’t much needed because the large windows let in so much natural light.  Service is impeccable. 

The restaurant’s Web site describes the menu as “one bold statement after another.”   At the very least, it’s an ambitious menu that crosses over several borders and culinary cultures.  That’s especially true of the prix fixe menu for brunch which couples a buffet and a number of items from the menu.  Stainless steel vessels hold such buffet items as smoked salmon lox, Argentine prawn and chili quiche, seasonal fruit, Cuban Torrejas, Peruvian Ceviche Limon and twin crepes.  Don’t fill your plate too much because you’ll also have the opportunity to order an entree from the “kitchen” menu.  This menu ranges from the simple (huevos rancheros) to the complex (Seafood Valencia Paella).

Sunday Brunch Offerings Include Seafood Valencia (Paella made with chicken, chorizo, prawns, mussels and peas); smoked salmon lox; Argentine Prawn and Chili Quiche

The attentive wait staff does their best to ensure the buffet items are replenished so diners will always have fresh and warm food.  Their efforts are more successful when a passel of diners empties the serving vessels almost as quickly as the servers fill them.  Such was the case during our inaugural visit which transpired on the same day the Japanese Fall Festival was being held on the grounds of the Center.  Apparently a number of diners preferred Latin inspired cuisine to Japanese fare because La Fonda was quite crowded when we arrived.

Among the buffet items which would have stood out was the smoked salmon lox with cream cheese, capers, red onions and eggs.  Alas, the toasted bagels intended to be the canvas upon which to heap the other ingredients were stale and dry.  Still, who can resist salmon, capers and cream cheese, a triumvirate of taste. Also good were Cuban Torrejas, essentially pain perdu (French toast) stuffed with strawberry and mamey glaze, and topped with whipped Cream.   The Peruvian Ceviche Limon, fresh raw fish, calamari, octopus and shrimp served with yam and Peruvian corn was rather uninspired, a far cry from Peruvian ceviche we’ve had elsewhere. It lacked the freshness and the citrus-tinged zip of a great ceviche.

Carne Asada con Huevos al Gusto (Native to Northern Mexico): Half-pound charbroiled sirloin with 2 eggs any style, served with breakfast potatoes, adobo sauce

My choice from the menu was paella, but not just any paella. According to the menu, it was Seafood Valencia,  named for the city in Spain in which paella originated.  Valencia isn’t just where paella was first made, it’s where it’s best made.  Paella is a great source of local pride for Valencianos where it’s made so well that, much like some Italian food, its flavors improve into the next day.  Similar to the paella made in Valencia, La Fonda’s rendition has a slightly crunchy edge.  It’s replete with bite-sized pieces of chicken, seasoned pork sausage, prawns, mussels and green peas embedded in a mound of saffron-infused rice.   The portion size is more than generous, but the experience would have been even more authentic and fun had it been served in a paellera, the flat steel pan in which paella is traditionally prepared.  Exercise caution not to ladle out the paella on the buffet table (unless you really like paella) because it will count as your entree. 

Another palate pleasing entree is the carne asada con huevos al gusto, a plate native to Northern Mexico.  The carne asada is a half-pound charbroiled sirloin steak prepared to your exacting level of doneness.  In some Mexican restaurants–both in Mexico and in New Mexico–a half-pound sometimes means two portions of thinly cut, usually tough as leather steak so it’s a surprise to find a thick, juicy steak that’s almost fork tender.  Literally the term “huevos al gusto” translates to “eggs to your pleasure,” but really means “eggs made the way you want them.”  The breakfast potatoes are excellent, but the adobo sauce lacked any real punch.

Tiramisu and white chocolate truffle

The brunch menu also includes a dessert bar featuring such sweet-tooth favorites as tiramisu, truffles, and fruit tarts.  The tiramisu would never be mistaken for the tiramisu made at Torinos @ Home, not by a long stretch, but it’s better than out-of-the-box.

La Fonda Del Bosque offers catering services for special events such as weddings and anniversaries. With a patio which can accommodate as many as 1,500 guests, it’s a perfect venue for a good time.

La Fonda Del Bosque
Hispanic Cultural Center
Albuquerque, New Mexico
(505) 247-9480
Web Site
LATEST VISIT: 30 September 2012
# OF VISITS: 6
RATING: 17
COST: $$
BEST BET:  

La Fonda Del Bosque on Urbanspoon

  • JohnL says:

    Kay I were excited when we saw the on line menu for the newly reopened La Fonda del Bosque. The dishes sounded good representing a nice variety of cuisines. So we tried the Sunday brunch today. It was a disaster.

    We went around 1:30. They supposedly serve brunch until three. The place was virtually empty. The fruit and veggies on the buffet looked almost like war surplus. They clearly had been out longer then that morning. There was a dish with the paella on the buffet table. We had no idea whether this was the same as the paella under the From the Kitchen part of the menu but there was no one around to ask. There was what appeared to be an omelet station at the end of the buffet table. But it was unmanned. So we tried the paella from the dish on the buffet table. It had lots of saffron rice, peas and mussels in it but no chicken, two small slices of chorizo and very few shrimp/prawns. To be fair the mussels were good. When we checked back a little later all that was left were rice, peas and a few mussels. Kay told our waitress that there was no chicken in the paella. The waitress returned in a few minutes with a plate full of chicken pieces. They were dried out, tough and essentially inedible.

    For our items “From the Kitchen” Kay ordered their version of eggs benedict with chipotle hollandaise. It was OK but nothing special. The on line menu said it came with fried plantains. There were none with what Kay got. I ordered the Carne Asada con Huevos al Gusto. The steak was essentially inedible. I could barely cut is with their serrated knife. It was like sawing wood. I took one bite and gave up on it. The eggs over easy and the adobo sauce were OK or a little less so. Their breakfast potatoes on this dish were not worth eating. The slice of orange that garnished the plate was old, dried out on both sides. Like the fruit on the buffet it had been cut well before this morning. When I pointed out to our waitress that the steak was no good she offered to replace the dish and told me they had run out of the good steaks and made a mistake serving what they did to me. Why do they even have inedible food in the kitchen at all? If they don’t have what’s on the menu, then just say so. Don’t serve garbage instead.

    The desert bar was essentially empty. There was one plate with some sort of cake on it. I passed. Kay took a slice and it was dried out and had little flavor to it.

    Perhaps if we had visited earlier it would have gone better, but we went at the midpoint of their stated hours of service. We were both extraordinarily disappointed and shall not darken their door again.

    October 7, 2012 at 6:24 PM
    • Gil Garduno says:

      I’m so sorry to hear your experience at La Fonda Del Bosque was such a disappointment.

      It could well be that because we visited when La Fonda was very busy (courtesy of the large crowds attending Japanese Fall Festival being held on the grounds), the buffet was replenished frequently and kept fresh. Even at that, we didn’t like several of the items we tried, ergo my rating of “17.”

      It’s been my experience that large catering companies (Bon Apetit, Aaramark, etc.) offer menus that are ambitious and inventive, but don’t always live up to their promise. What is inexcusable is an admission from your server that they knowingly served you a bad steak. I hope the quality of your meal was an anomaly because diners who visit the NHCC deserve better.

      October 7, 2012 at 6:39 PM
      • Hanif says:

        Greetings Gil,
        it was a pleasant surprise to read your review. Thank you. I wish I had known either during or after your visit to keep a lookout for your review. Please explain to me your scoring guidelines. I am intrigued by the score of 17, but, out off?

        Once again, thank you for your review, your critique of our menu items and services are duly noted.

        hanif – owner A KayTahRing Company

        January 11, 2013 at 11:38 PM
      • Gil Garduno says:

        Hello Hanif

        The rating of 17 is out of a possible 30. My rating system is explained at http://www.nmgastronome.com/?page_id=434.

        Gil

        January 15, 2013 at 5:43 PM
    • hanif says:

      Greetings Cappy,
      I am sorry that your experience at la Fonda Del Bosque was not a pleasant one. I do apologize. Please contact me at hanif@kaytahring.com, I would like for you and Kay to come back and give us another try. My treat, to atone for your past bad experience.

      Hanif – owner A KayTahRing Company

      January 11, 2013 at 11:25 PM
  • Cappy says:

    Gil,

    My wife is from Peru and is dieing to have some Peruvian food. Do you know of any other place in ABQ or Santa Fe etc that has any type of peruvian food?

    We will have to go ck out La Fonda Del Bosque.

    Cappy

    October 11, 2012 at 12:15 PM
    • Gil Garduno says:

      Hello Cappy

      The best Peruvian food in New Mexico can be found at Pollito Con Papas on Gibson just east of San Pedro where Rene and Monica Coronado will make you feel right at home. Monica is from Peru and will be happy to meet another Peruana.

      The ceviche at La Fonda Del Bosque does not have the creativity, freshness and bold flavors that characterize ceviche in Peru. A much better bet for very good ceviche is Pasion Latin Fusion on Lomas east of 12th Street.

      Please let me know if you visit these two restaurants. I’d love to hear what you and your wife think of them.

      Gil

      October 11, 2012 at 1:30 PM
  • Andrea says:

    That tiramisu looks awful. Yikes. My food was good but nothing special, overall. It’s a good option to have if you’re onsite for an event.

    May 6, 2013 at 3:17 PM

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