Gil’s Thrilling (And Filling) Year in Food: January, 2017
As an essayist of the New Mexico culinary scene, it often baffles me to read national print and online publications attempting to speak for New Mexicans in naming our best this or best that. It’s often as if the writers have never set foot in the Land of Enchantment and instead tossed a dart at a target listing sundry foods. Take for example, Delish.com’s recent compilation of compilation of The 50 Most Wanted Game Day Food in Your State. Using findings from DirecTV which ostensibly combed through Instagram to determine which snacks people were scarfing down before cheering on the home team, Delish.com named onion rings as the fried snack of choice here. Onion rings!!! In years of having attended Lobo football and basketball games, I don’t recall any tailgaters noshing on onion rings. Perhps they devour onion rings at home before heading to the University Stadium or Wise Guys Arena.
According to an online survey from the National Coffee Association, 83-percent of adults crave their caffeine jolt. A separate survey from Zagat revealed about half of respondents get their coffee fix at a nationally owned chain or local coffee shop. When it comes to finding a great cup of coffee, not every city is created equal. Yelp data was evaluated to determine America’s fifty caffeine capitals. With a caffeine score of 86.27, Albuquerque ranks as America’s second most caffeinated city. Coffee lovers convene for their favorite cup at one of the city’s 124 coffee shops which earned an average Yelp rating of 3.9 (on a scale of one to five) with 80 of them earning ratings of four to five on Yelp reviews.
“Love may be a many-splendored thing, but however you cut it, “splendor” is the operative word. Cities that bring the beauty almost always crank up the heat, which is why there’s no mistaking a romantic city when you encounter it. Thrillist compiled a rundown of US cities where the scenery doubles as an aphrodisiac, for use as you and boo see fit.” Not surprisingly, Santa Fe was named one of the most beautiful cities in the US for romantic getaways. According to Thrillist, the City Different’s most romantic restaurant-bar is the Pink Adobe adding that “the neighborhood’s wonderful collection of bars and restaurants, from the Palace to Secreto Lounge to Tia Sophia’s, is integral to the area’s sultry charm.”
Santa Fe is also home to one of America’s 39 most historic restaurants as named by MSN. The venerable El Farol on artsy-chic Canyon Road is the city’s oldest restaurant. MSN wrote: “Serving Spanish tapas this delightful restaurant has been offering “warmth” and “light” (the English translation) since 1835, alongside sharing plates well before they became a trend and nightly entertainment. El Farol is one of the forerunners of the tapas movement, the sharing of small portions of delectable foods served in groupings. History meets entertainment at El Farol which features live entertainment seven days a week.
Just in time for the advent of 2017, Travel Squire, a digital magazine and travel therapist in one combined, written and edited by destination specialists. organized its picks for the top 28 destinations for the upcoming year in travel. The list includes every continent with something for every travel style. “New on Your Radar” destinations providing a variety of cultural and culinary experiences include the Land of Enchantment. New Mexico is the only state that is home to three UNESCO World Heritage Sites: Chaco Canyon, Taos Pueblo and Carlsbad Caverns. It’s also unmatched in terms of culinary experiences. Travel Squire noted: “Enticing culinary trails like the Breakfast Burrito Byway and the Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail will introduce you to New Mexico’s culinary staple—the spicy chile. There are also numerous opportunities to experience the Native American culture from a pueblo cooking class at Okhay Owingeh to sampling pueblo cuisine, exploring Gallup’s Native art and Native-influenced spa treatments.”
While many New Mexicans might have named our official state cookie–the sacrosanct biscochito–as our most delicious cookie, Good Housekeeping made a rather surprising choice. In naming a dark chocolate chili cookie as New Mexico’s very best cookie in its list of the 50 most delicious cookies by state, Good Housekeeping actually found a cookie that really doesn’t have much New Mexico in it. Study the recipe and you’ll quickly note its ingredients include a hint of cinnamon, cayenne pepper, and chunks of dark chocolate chili chocolate. Sure, we love cayenne pepper with Cajun food, but it doesn’t grace our recipes for New Mexican food. As for the “chili” in this cookie, it actually comes from a Lindt chili excellence bar. It’s unlikely any New Mexican chile farmers would allow their product to be spelled “chili” so there’s no telling where it comes from.
During our three years in England, we spent many a lazy day on the banks of the serene River Windrush luxuriating with a cup of tea coupled with a combination of scones, clotted cream, and jam. It’s not something we can hope to duplicate on the banks of the murky Rio Grande, but scant miles away, we can experience the genteel pleasure of sipping tea at The St. James Tearroom. The Huffington Post calls an experience at the St. James Tearoom “the lost art of connection,” indicating that the tearoom “offers its patrons an experience that creates connection and intimacy for those who choose to leave the rushed and stressful day to day duties of work to take time out and connect. It is a place to relax and be fully present to those around you and tea is the magical thread that weaves this experience together.”
What one person considers delicious, another may deem entirely unpleasant. Thrillist realizes that “each state has foods that might look unappetizing or downright disgusting to an outsider — but to homegrown kids, they’re a little slice of home.” Most native New Mexicans will consider it heretical that in a Thrillist feature entitled “Every State’s Grossest Food (That People Actually Love),” declares that our beloved carne adovada “resembles a plate of wet dog food in marinara sauce.” Hard to believe as New Mexicans will find it, carne adovada was deemed our “grossest food.” Where do you find this paragon of loathsomeness? Thrillist recommends Mary & Tito’s Cafe where “you get it paired with a plate of perfectly cooked sunny-side eggs and hash browns.”
Ludwig van Beethoven once declared “only the pure in heart can make a good soup.” Restaurants throughout Albuquerque and Santa Fe are obviously staffed with pure-hearted chefs and cooks who show off their formidable culinary skills every year at each city’s annual Souper Bowl, the most delicious fund-raising events in the state. Santa Fe’s Souper Bowl benefits The Food Depot, “Northern New Mexico’s Food Bank.” Approximately one-thousand soup lovers attended the twenty-third annual event where they sipped soup to their heart’s content. Sweetwater Harvest Kitchen earned both best overall soup and best savory soup with a Thai Cambodian Coconut Chicken soup. Other category winners included Terra at the Four Seasons at Rancho Encantado in the best cream category; Kingston Residence of Santa Fe in the best seafood category; and The Palace in the best vegetarian category.
More than twelve-hundred guests enjoyed scrumptious soups and delectable desserts from nearly forty area Albuquerque restaurants in the Roadrunner Food Bank’s Souper Bowl 2017. Awards were presented in two categories: Critic’s Choice and People’s Choice with attendees casting their ballots for their favorite soup and dessert. Drum roll please…the 2017 Souper Bowl award winners were:
Critic’s Choice Awards were chosen by a panel of six judges (including yours truly) who rated each soup based on appearance, aroma, texture, spice blend, flavor and overall impression.
What’s the hottest trending topic in the world of comfort cuisine. According to The Travel Channel, it’s Mexican food. With flavors so bold, brash and satisfying, it’s no surprise. Leaving no tortilla unturned in its search for America’s eight best places to “enjoy maximum Mexican food enjoyment,” it’s also no surprise The Travel Channel would wind up in New Mexico where Albuquerque’s legendary El Pinto ranked number four in the list of Best Mex. John and Jim Thomas, the famous “Salsa Twins” were featured along with the meaty splendor that is El Pinto’s red chile ribs. The process of preparing the best ribs since Adam shared one with Eve was showcased along with calabasitas and a 24-ounce bone-in tomahawk steak.
The Travel Channel also counted down eight restaurants known for serving up the best version of a city’s signature dish. In an episode of Food Paradise entitled “Iconic Eats,” Santa Fe’s Maria’s New Mexican Kitchen was lauded for its blue corn enchiladas, a main player in its menu for more than fifty years. Another dish on the epic list are Maria’s epic chile rellenos which are stuffed with a pepperjack cheese. It’s too bad modern technology has not yet developed smell-o-vision or better still, taste-o-vision because both dishes truly represent New Mexico on a plate. It’s Christmas every day at Maria’s.