Even if you’ve never had the pleasure of a meal there, it’s hard not to like a restaurant named Chez Bob. Much as poetic French words are apt to do, the term “chez” seems to impart instant credibility, authenticity and just a touch of haughtiness to any restaurant sporting that appellation–even though “chez” is just a preposition which means “at the home of.” So, Chez Lucien is essentially “at the home of Lucien.” On restaurants, the term “chez” usually prefaces the name of the chef or owner, as in Chez Pierre or Chez Emile.
The ordinary nature of the “Bob” portion of the name Chez Bob counterbalances the haughtiness of the term “chez” because Bob is one of those “every man names” we all trust. It doesn’t have those intimidating metrosexual qualities of Hollywood names such as Troy and Brad or the perceived hauteur of a French name. Bob is a vanilla name, a name your friends and neighbors might have. You would probably feel more welcome at a restaurant named “Chez Bob” than you would at one named “Chez Arnaud” which sounds more than a bit pretentious and expensive.
The Bob in Chez Bob is Robert “Bob” Maw. Bob’s vision is for Chez Bob to be the type of restaurant with which he grew up in New York, the type of restaurant which emphasizes great food, great service and a great experience for all patrons. He means it when emphasizing service, teaching his staff that it’s much easier to remake an entree than to make a new customer. His goal is to exceed the expectations of each and every guest. Chez Bob is well on its way to doing just that with a young, but very talented kitchen staff that includes chefs Jason Sanchez and Stephen Wood and baker-sous chef Rebecca Rodriguez who prepares the restaurant’s desserts, quiches and pear tart.
Before there was a Chez Bob, there was La Crepe Pierre, a charming little eatery in the plaza at Candelaria and San Pedro. An year had barely elapsed when the restaurant moved to the far Northeast Heights and was rechristened Chez Bob for its owner. The restaurant is ensconced in a sprawling shopping center, part of an urban infill effort on the northeast corner of Paseo del Norte and Wyoming. Its de rigueur stuccoed facade is somewhat obfuscated from traffic and its signage, even though incorporating the Eiffel Tower, is subdued. Being away from the well-beaten, well-eaten path in an out-of-the-way shopping center have made it a destination restaurant, one which diners from outside the neighborhood have in mind when they set out for a great meal. My three visits have validated that Chez Bob is a special restaurant, one discerning diners should visit even if it may be a bit out of the way.
Chez Bob’s interior is as charming as the exterior facade is blase. Industrial style ductwork on the ceiling is barely noticeable considering everything pleasant to look at–from the colorful portraiture festooning the walls to the tile and cabinetry. The center part of the restaurant is lined with small tables in close, neighborly, proximity to one another, while comfortable booths brace against the north and south walls. Linen tablecloths and napkins adorn each table as does a full place-setting. It’s a welcoming and cheery milieu with a casual elegance.
Service at Chez Bob isn’t haughty in the least. It’s friendly and attentive without the wait staff hovering over you at every turn. The staff is trained well enough to understand that a casual glance here and then is enough to know when customers’ glasses needs refilling or more bread is needed at the table. Bread is one of the few items not prepared on the premises. Chez Bob showcases the freshest, wild-caught seafood and premium steaks with everything on the Continental cuisine menu prepared to order. All sauces are freshly made from the highest quality ingredients. Instead of sticker shock, your face will register surprise at the reasonable bill of fare.
The menu is an impressive array of mostly French entrees with a smattering of Italian cuisine for good measure. All entrees are served with a side salad, starch of the day and fresh vegetables. The “On the Hoof” section of the menu features only two items–Beef Wellington and Rib Eye Steak–but they’re better than steakhouse quality. The “Wet and Wild Caught” menu includes seafood delicacies such as Diver Scallops prepared with your choice of three sauces: Provencal, St. Jaques, or Buerre Blanc. Poultry offerings such as Duck a l’Orange adorn the Winged Creatures menu. Diners also have their choice from among six savory or sweet crepes or from an impressive selection of Italian pasta dishes.
A thinly sliced loaf of French bread with chilled butter is a French restaurant staple and Chez Bob doesn’t disappoint. It is hard-crusted, airy French bread served with creamy French butter. Diet be damned, you’ve got to have a few slices of the staff of life with your every meal here–some with butter and some saved so you can sop up the soups or sauces.
The soups at Chez Bob are magnificent, none better than the traditional French Onion Soup. This heart-warming elixir is made from rich Chablis (a dry white wine) enhanced beef-based stock with caramelized onions served with a toasted gratin with bubbly Swiss cheese. It’s not as aesthetically appealing as some soup crocks on which the golden, melting cheese blankets the entire top, but it is beefy, rich and fragrant and as delicious as soup gets. Almost as good is a soup du jour offering of cream of potato and ham soup, a thick, creamy soul-warming bowl of sheer deliciousness.
An Artisanal Cheese Plate appetizer showcases a variety of cheeses and fresh fruits with toasted crostini. The cheese platter is a quadrumvirate of terrific cheeses any turophile will enjoy. Good fortune will smile upon you if the four cheeses are Gruyere, Fontina, Goat Cheese and Brie, cheeses with varying flavor profiles, but not as much textural contrast (no hard cheeses, for example) as some would enjoy. The chevre (goat cheese) is especially flavorful, whether you spread it on the toasted crostini or enjoy it by itself. The fruits are seasonally fresh and delicious. They make for an effective palate cleanser in between noshing on the cheeses or for a terrific sweet contrast afterwards.
The “Pasta de la Casa” section of the dinner menu features five Italian pasta dishes including one in which New Mexico green chile meets Italian chicken Alfredo lasagna. It’s a delicious melding of flavors: fresh pulled chicken with a fromage triumvirate of rich ricotta, mozzarella and parmesan layered and finished with a green chili (SIC) Alfredo sauce. If you’re tired of being beaten over the head with puddles of thick, red marinara sauce and spicy sausage, you’ll luxuriate in the elegance and richness of Alfredo sauce and a complementary cheese trio. The pasta is light and delicate despite being just a bit thicker than some lasagna noodles. This is a creamy, delicious entree served slab-sized.
Accompanying the lasagna is a vegetable medley of sweet carrots and green beans, both reminiscent of the freshness you might experience at a market in Provence. The carrots in particular are sweet and perfectly prepared so there’s just a slight snap when you bite into them–not quite al dente, but in no way mushy. The beans are similarly fresh-tasting and delicious.
The pasta menu also features a more conventional New York style lasagna which showcases a house-spiced sweet fennel sausage in a slow-cooked real marinara sauce with three cheeses. Bob Maw told me once that if his customers want something that’s not on the menu and the restaurant has the ingredients to prepare it, Chez Bob will do so. His staff didn’t bat an eye when we asked for a couple slices of sausage. We were brought two huge patties of sweet New York style sausage, blessedly kissed by fennel. It’s a good sausage, the type of which you might enjoy several hunks of during a meal.
Savory crepes are a specialty of the house. Prepared on real Krampouz creperies which are renown for their uniform temperature control, these are among the very best crepes in town. The crepe de resistance is probably the seafood crepe: large sea scallops,shrimp and mushrooms in a rich lobster cream sauce. The golden crepe is literally bursting at its seams with ingredients, all perfectly prepared and as fresh as if brought to the kitchen from a fishing boat. The mushrooms explode with a uniquely robust and woodsy flavor. The scallops and shrimp are sweet and succulent.
There are five other crepes on the menu: Crepe Florentine (spinach in a garlic cream with Bechamel and Swiss cheese), Chicken and Mushroom Crepe, Beef Bourguignon, Salmon and Asparagus Crepe and Ratatouille, a traditional French vegetable stew popularized by an animated feature film by that name. It’s an impressive assemblage of savory crepes, but savory crepes tell only part of the menu’s story. Dessert crepes are among the very best way to cap a meal anywhere.
The menu describes the Beef Wellington as “soon to be famous.” This is one elegant entree which deserves fame and acclaim. It’s an excellent alternative to steak though it does feature a nine-ounce select beef tenderloin and house-made, rich mushroom duxelle (sauteed and finely chopped mushrooms) wrapped in puff pastry then topped with a brandy peppercorn cream sauce. In both taste and aroma, the hemisphere of golden puff pastry is reminiscent of the thin crust which tops freshly baked bread. The tenderloin is prepared to your exacting specifications, but any more than medium and you’ll lose some of the beef’s inherent juiciness. Chez Bob’s recreation of a Beef Wellington pays a loving and faithful tribute to a timeless classic.
Even among people who aren’t especially fond of fish and who think shellfish stinks, you’ll rarely hear a disparaging word about scallops. The delicately mild-sweet, oceany but not overly briny flavor of scallops and their soft, fleshy texture are oh so endearing. Chez Bob offers fresh, wild-caught divers scallops seared in butter and served with your choice of three sauces: Provencal, St. Jaques, or Buerre Blanc. The scallops are plump and delicious, so fresh they nearly melted at the press of a fork. Buerre Blanc, a rich French sauce made from an acidic reduction whisked together with chunks of fresh butter. It adds a complex, rich layer of flavor and unctuousness to the scallops.
The luscious home made desserts menu is replete with the types of indulgences with which we should all treat ourselves once in a while. Though they’re likely heavenly, skip the Creme Brulee and bread pudding and head over to the dessert crepes. There are six on the menu, all tempting, all juggernauts of flavor if the ones we had are any indication. It’s ironic that crepes are the quintessential street food of Paris where trained artisans prepare them to perfection considering that in America, crepes are the decadent denizens of fine French restaurants.
The sweet and delicate Nutella Crepe was showcased in “100+ Things To Eat Before You Die,” a popular list which has been making the rounds throughout the blogosphere for years. It’s a crepe I’d put near the top of that list In 2005, Chez Bob earned a “Hot Plate” award from Albuquerque The Magazine for this delicious beauty which the magazine called “a literal taste of France.” Nutella, a thick, smooth paste made from chocolate and hazelnuts is one of those decadent sweet things you don’t mind smeared all over your face as you lap it up. It’s that good! Topped with whipped cream and strawberries then drizzled with confectioners sugar, it is fabulous. Cut into it with your fork and the sweet succulence oozes out in utter deliciousness. Oh so good!
At the opposite side of the spectrum, at least in terms of sweetness, is the tart and delicious three cream lemon crepe. Engorged with lemon curd and cream cheese, this crepe isn’t so tart that it purses your lips, but it will grab your attention and capture your taste buds with explosions of deliciousness. This is an overstuffed crepe redolent with flavor and freshness.
Though it may not (yet) have earned a Hot Plate award, the favorite dessert of Chef Sanchez is the pear tart made with real almond paste imported from France. This is a very rich, very buttery dessert you might need to share because it is just that rich. Thankfully sliced strawberries lend a tangy contrast to the near cloying sweetness of the almond paste. The golden-brown, buttery pastry shell is light and delicate and the fresh poached pears are glorious. There are many elements in this dessert to like, but if your sweet tooth isn’t what it used to be, tread lightly. This is one rich, rich dessert.
As of this writing, Chez Bob is proceeding with its expansion to the Nob hill space once occupied by the former Vivace at 3118 Central, S.E. The Nob Hill location will be offering breakfast and lunch and should be open in late February or early March. Dinner will eventually follow.
Chez Bob has the commitment of a service-oriented and passionate owner coupled with an energetic and talented kitchen staff now thought of more in terms of excellence than youth. It’s a restaurant at which you’ll feel right at home.
Chez Bob
7610 Carmel, N.E.
Albuquerque, New Mexico
LATEST VISIT: 23 January 2013
1st VISIT: 7 November 2009
# OF VISITS: 3
RATING: 23
COST: $$ – $$$
BEST BET: Prosciutto and melone, Green Chili Chicken Lasagna, Seafood Crepe, Nutella Crepe, Three Cream Lemon Crepe
Well Fudge…just happened to include a reference under Dining NM on the 4th and this is sadly found on the 6th in the ABQ Journal for those who don’t read it. What a waste, as I could consistently count on above par vittles and service!
“Chez Bob may have bid a permanent adieu to Albuquerque.
Jessica Dyer
Owner Bob Maw closed the Northeast Heights location of his French bistro and creperie in February. While he previously had intended to expand the concept into Nob Hill, he said Monday that’s no longer in his plans.
Maw has been leasing part of the former Vivace space at 3118 Central SE since 2012 and had planned to use it for a second Chez Bob. But Maw said this week that all plans for that venue are on hold while he takes a break and tends to other matters.
Whatever becomes of the spot, Maw said it’s unlikely to be a continuation of Chez Bob. He said he’s currently mulling “new concepts” for the space.
“If I do something (there), it will be a different approach,” he said.”
Source: http://tinyurl.com/nspgasx – don’t know if you can access without a subscription.
Had a yen for another Salmon en croute. Nice touch added: Gustavo Pimentel enhancing the ambiance Thurs/Fris from Moonlight Serenade to Take Five to ‘classicals’ for guitar.
“Chow!”
Had the Wellington and “again” fine….nice change of pace were the mini wedges of seasoned roasted potatoes. Had a leek bisque for the first time…”choke full” of cubettes of potato and sliced mushroom. There is a bold flavor within, which contrasts mysteriously with the lightness of the cream, i.e. in contrast to a thick creaminess of many New England Clam chowders for example. No definitive update re the Nob Hill venture. Usual attentive staff as always.
“Chow”
Another great meal. Alas! a nice touch of an ‘amuse-bouche’ of multi-ingrediented avocado spread. By happenstance, ran into a delightful couple who are ‘silent’ followers of this Blog…Bird’s of a feather flocking together? Re getting Chez II in old Vivace location in Nob Hill: apparently some design features re the re-do and permitting have slowed progress, but trudging on.
“Chow!”
Mon Dieu…PAS!!!!Pourquoi Bouton Mont??? (Pardon my Francaise!*) So sad to see that Elliot’s couldn’t be transformed back to its days of e.g. the former Cooperage West for dining (vs current offerings for eating along Coors) to provide West-Siders Chez’ more sophisticated palate pleasers with charm/ambiance at fair prices. (Perhaps I don’t say it often enough, but Thank You to the Grammarians on this blog who suffer in silence re my syntaxes!!)
*My ‘dictionary’ did not have a translation for ‘nob’ so I used a “phonetic” version of ‘knob’ which came up with ’bouton’.
(Say Gil, nice revision of the review!)
“Chow”!!!
Consistency is always appreciated and thus is the French Onion, the ambiance, and particularly the service at Chez Bob’s.
Had a tender Wellington with a nicely prepared puff pastry wrap;sauce was light and tasty; and the beef was cooked as ordered, medium. Alas, while in no way meaning to say it was dry, I would have preferred a tad more moistness than my cow apparently had to offer versus the puff not doing its job of moistness retention. Chez B’s on my list of fine dining experience at reasonable prices.
“Chow!”
Returned to Chez Bob for lunch with the wife yesterday. She had the turkey croissant sandwich, and agreed with my earlier review and absolutely loved it. I had the Quiche Lorraine. WOW!!! I’m certainly no expert in quiche, but I know what I like, and this was an amazing dish. The bacon was thick and delicious, the quiche was creamy and succulent. MMMMM.
Of course, we had to have the dessert crepe. I asked the wife if she wanted her own, and she says, “No, I’m too full, I will just have a taste of yours.” Went with the Bananas Foster Crepe, and it was so delicious, that before I knew it, the wife had finished half of the dish! So much for just a taste ;-). I believe she called it heavenly…can’t say I disagree!
Do yourself a favor and visit Chez Bob’s as soon as you can!
Returned to Chez Bob to have dinner there for the first time. Oustanding. The Beef Wellington and Nutella crepe would win best in class if they were stacked up against almost any other restaurant’s version of those dishes. Great restaurant.
Had Chez Bob for lunch today…WOW!!! I don’t usually review after just one visit, but was so impressed, I had to get on and share.
Gotta agree with Nate D. I had the turkey croissant sandwich. Yes, it is simple, but it is amazing what you can do when the ingredients are so delicious. The croissant was flaky and tasty, the turkey was not your usual cold cut variety…I would swear it was freshly carved at the table. The avacadoes…delicious. Even the grapes that came on the side were sweet and mouth watering. Easily the best turkey croissant sandwich I have ever had.
My dining companion had the ratatouille quiche. He said he thoroughly enjoyed it and the mix of the veggies and egg reminded him of the awesome quiche his grandma used to make.
Now, my favorite part of the meal. Had the nutella crepe…OMG!!! I about passed out from such a delicious dessert. I wish I had Gil’s mastery of the English language to relate just how good this thing was. Work of art worthy of indoctrination in the halls of pleasure is the best I can come up with.
Will definitely be back for dinner…and OF COURSE either the nutella crepe, or the bananas foster crepe!
Returned to try the Sockey Salmon en Croute. The smashed potato was again tasteful even with the dollop of butter that I unabashedly added, as were the asparagus. The salmon was cooked as requested and had a deep salmon color. The puff pastry sleeve added that right touch of opulence while serving as a nice transport for the delicious, basil pinon pesto, cream sauce. I could not ask for more in terms of presentation or portion size… for the excellent price. As in the past, service is provided by folks who take a bit of pride and are not simply delivery people.
Tres Bon mon Amis
Thanks to Linda and Nate D as reminders!
I finally made a revisit…think its been a year. Indeed, in contrast to Gil’s opening pic-of-the-place, the impression the other night offered by the revised, B/W tablecloth settings and pics against the redone walls along with the new window treatments… besides showing “Le Bob’s” intent of offering a fine dining experience…gives this “room” a more sophisticated ambiance in spite of, what some might call the chic, “open” work area, sorta speak. [Hmmm….re the latter, yes I’m (Ok purely selfishly) trying to lure Le Bob into restoring the old Cooperage West/Elliot’s to challenge the ” faux restaurant row concept” just down south of 528 on Coors…LOL.] Anyway, I would note re ‘service’ concerns of an early Commentator, that Le Bob presented as a ‘participating owner’ as he made rounds visiting with Guests as if they were in ‘his home’.
I opted for the Cordon Bleu. Besides the price being ‘bon’, the serving was hearty, chicken wise, with a crumb coating complementing nicely; the Marsala sauce was delicious. While not wishing to imply a need to send the chicken back, I’d prefer it a bit thinner with a touch more ham and cheese. As such, I’d choose Axel’s for this admittedly one-time go around of CB, albeit I’m sincerely looking forward to trying some of Le Bob’s other creations in the months to come. Oh oh, I particularly thought the smashed potatoes were a great accompaniment, but alas I forgot to get details for some of Y’all…LOL
“Chow!”
I must comment again after a return visit to Chez Bob. This is easily one of the best restaurants in Albuquerque. I tried two new items today, the Ratatouille crepe as well as the Three Cream Lemon crepe for dessert. I also tried some of my mother’s Salmon crepe. Every dish was fantastic. Do yourself a favor and visit this oustanding restaurant, it deserves Albuquerque’s support.
We are frequent diners at Chez Bob, and have yet to be disappointed. Last night we enjoyed the best meal we have ever experienced, not only in Albuquerque, but all over the world. The New Year’s Eve dinner was superb, Chef Bob truly bested himself. We look forward to 2012, and many fabulous experiences at Chez Bob.
We love Chez Bob’s. Every time we go, I think I will order something different —
but, I always order the seafood crepe. It is so hummy and now that I am thinking
about it, I want to go there right now.
I tried Chez Bob out for the first time today for lunch. While I ordered probably the most simple dish on the lunch menu, a turkey croissant sandwich, it was outstanding. They use for high quality ingredients at this place. I also had a cup of the soup of the day, a creamy tomato. The soup was great too. For the quality, the food was very resonably priced. I will definitely return to try other items, particularly the crepes.
We had dinner with another couple just this past Saturday. I must say I was very pleased with the meal. The table enjoyed some nice drinks, and a variety of meals, which we all shared a bite or two. No one was quite willing to let much of their own dish go. It was very very good. Bob came and talked with us and from what I saw every table. Thank you and we will be back for lunch and brunch and more dinners.
The Truth is: The server made an order entry mistake. Upon my discovery of the error, I went to check on the customer and offered her a glass of wine, her meal free, and a free desert. She then stood up a said she was not paying for anything, and was quite angry. I did not state it happened 3 times the night before, but once prior and the server was new and I would address the problem with her. We make few mistakes, however, being human they do occasionally occur. When we do make a mistake, we make every possible attempt to fix them and care for the customers.
I would also note that the others at the table praised their food and ordered desserts. After tolerating significant abuse from this person, and offering her free wine, entree and dessert and receiving continued boisterous rejection, I did in all seriousness ask. What else can I do? Wash your car? Probably inappropriate time for a joke, and for that I apologize.
I had dinner with my family tonight at this restaurant and it was probably the worst dining experience I ever had. The fault was the owner who came out and yelled at me because my dinner was not ordered by the waitress and did not arrive with the other five meals. As I sat and waited for my dinner Chez Bob told me that while I was waiting he would compensate me with a glass of wine. He also shared that this happened three times last night. When I declined his wine offer he yelled “do you want me to wash your car.? ” He then left the place visibily angry. Chef Bob you have an anger problem and you need help. I will not return to your restaurant and I think you should be ashamed of yourself.
Leslie Belitz
I haven’t been back to Albuquerque since 2001, but when I do I’ll definitely come by to try this restaurant.
Bob Maw doesn’t do anything half-ass. I’ll bet he will put Osso Bucco on the menu at some point…yum!
Carolyn
I haven’t been back to Albuquerque since 2001, but when I do I’ll definately come by to try this restaurant.
Bob Maw doesn’t do anything half-ass. I’ll bet he will put Osso Bucco on the menu at some point…yum!
Carolyn
I agree with the review! The food and service is always excellent. Favorite dishes include the nicoise salad, green chile chicken lasagna, and lemon crepe. alfredo
I am very disappointed at the experience Chris relates above. My staff is required to make sure every dish is as ordered and as expected by our clients. If there is any dissapointment they are to fix it immediately with no questions asked. We do now serve Beer and Wine. I would ask Chris to contact me with details of his visit and I will personally take care of this situation.
Bob Maw, Owner
NO SECOND CHANCE
My wife and I had quite a different experience here than did our intrepid reviewer. We had an absolutely wonderful dinner several months ago at Le Crepe Pierre when we were in town, and hoped to repeat that experience last month at the newly-opened Chez Bob.
First, the good news. Our waitress was very very nice – attentive and knowledgeable without being intrusive. Unfortunately, it’s hard to come up with anything else that we enjoyed about our visit. No alcohol was being served. Okay, a minor irritation, since no liquor license had been issued yet. But two months after opening?
Then, the salads arrived literally on saucers, with the mixed greens overflowing onto the table. Well, actually, they were “greens/browns” that were probably shaken out of a none-too-fresh plastic bag. The raspberry vinaigrette dressing was nothing but pure vinegar.
For an entree I decided to try an aged steak cooked medium rare – based on the disappointing beginning of the meal, I opted for something pretty hard to screw up. It arrived cooked gray throughout. The quality of the meat still shone through, despite its abusive grilling. Oh, credit where credit is due – the haricot vert were fresh and cooked just right.
My wife ordered the highly recommended seafood crepe. Oh, sorry, the seafood crepe was off. Sheesh. And so it went. We were seated with a fairly good view of the kitchen, and the chefs were constantly chatting loudly and doing non-food prep activities throughout our stay.
Maybe they’ve learned to pay more attention to the quality of their “product”, but with all the good resto’s in town, Chez Bob doesn’t get a second chance from us.
I agree with all of the above and extend a hearty and heart-felt “AMEN” to the statements about the Nutella Crepe. I’d also like to sing a hymn of praise for the Cream of Mushroom soup, it’s one of the best things I’ve ever put in my mouth, a truely spiritual culinary experience. My world, culinary and otherwise, is a better place because Chez Bob’s is in my neighborhood, but this place would be worth the drive from anywhere.