It's a bit
ironic that one of the very best restaurants in the Fine Dining
category is owned and operated by Romanians Nellu and Elena
Baciu. Nearly a decade ago, the Bacius left Albuquerque
and took with them not only Baciu's European Restaurant, one of
our favorite restaurants in the Duke City, but a piece of our
hearts. Ironically, the name of their new American bistro
brings to mind the bread and wine offered to God by the priest
Melchizadek and a Christian book store occupies the space next
door.
What's not
ironic is just how wonderful the food is and how thoroughly
classy is its presentation. Having spent eight years
catering to some of America's brightest luminaries (Ronald
Reagan, Janet Jackson, Al Pacino, Sly Stallone, etc) at the
world famous Jason's
in Los Angeles, California, the Bacius know how to treat their
guests--like members of the family. Nellu is charming and
genial while Elena is witty and outgoing. Nellu provides
table-side service and seems to have two pairs of hands.
That table-side
service begins with a small plate of Balsamic vinegar, herbs and
parmesan cheese in which to dip some of the best restaurant
served bread in town. As great as the Bacius are, the
attraction here is the absolutely first-rate cuisine.
The house
seafood stew in the biggest bowl I've ever seen (easily
12") is as good, if not better, than what I've had in San
Francisco. It is sublimely spicy and as Nellu is quick to
point out, is not a cioppino (Italian seafood stew) or a
bouillabaisse (French seafood stew). Instead, it is a
mildly spicy grand gala of green mussels, baby scallops, shrimp,
calamari, white fish, clams, Roma tomato, sweet white wine,
mushrooms, red chile, paprika and whatever else Elena wishes to
add on any particular day.
The Rack of
Lamb Bouquetiere features among the most tender lamb chops I've
ever had. Market priced ($33 during one visit), you
receive more than a pound and a quarter of Frenched crown of
lamb prepared with Elena's secret herb blend. The rack is
baked sizzling crisp and brown on the outside and is a delicate
pink on the inside. Instead of the mint jelly served with
lamb chops at other fine restaurants, Nellu will pour at your
request, half a shot glass of crème de menthe liqueur on the
lucky lamb. It makes an even luscious lamb even more
spectacular.
Baciu's sweet
and spicy pork tenderloin is yet another "must have"
in a menu replete with must haves. Elena double bakes a
virtually fat free tenderloin before imbuing it with a garlic,
black bean and red chile sauce that will awaken your taste buds
and make them sing.
The garlic rich
Transylvanian Sausage and the savory Beef Stroganoff, not always
on the menu, are without par. The Bacius also specialize
in wonderful soups with the white bean soup and the matzo ball
soup standing out.
For dessert, an
absolute "must try" is the snowball cloud--vanilla ice
cream drenched in a heavenly chocolate sauce and topped with
smoked coconut flakes. Top the snowball cloud with
Anisette and you've got maybe the best Coupe Alexander you'll
ever have. Superb service, incomparable quality and
outstanding value are the hallmarks of an outstanding restaurant
and Baciu's is near the top in all three areas
