Butcher & Fisherman Steak, Seafood & Lobster House
3000 San Pedro, N.E
Albuquerque, NM

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* French  $$$ 25-Sep-03 2 Lobster Roll, Three Onion Crab Dip, Saint Jaque Shrimp & Scallops, Bourbon New York Strip, Mussels

Americans like to think of themselves as enlightened and tolerant, but there are pockets of ignorance and xenophobia that belie our nation's supposed culture of inclusion.  Because of heightened tension between the United States and France, the La Cuisine restaurant (and likely every other French restaurant in town) was inundated with threatening phone calls and hate mail.  

How, reasoned the ignoramuses, could a restaurant serve French food and French wines while Jacques Chirac had the impunity to besmirch George Bush's character?  Business at La Cuisine suffered as a result...so much so that the owners renamed the restaurant to Butcher & Fisherman Steak, Seafood & Lobster House.  

The menu still included all but three entrees served when this was purely a French restaurant, but most entrees were translated into English so as not to offend the boorish few.  Of course, those Jethroes probably wouldn't understand that a rose (vichyssoise or bouillabaisse) doesn't smell any sweeter by American names (potato soup or fish stew respectively).  

Okay, by any name this was a formidable restaurant serving outstanding food.  We started our dining experience with crispy lobster rolls accompanied by a sweetly piquant jalapeno chutney.  A better appetizer we had not had in a long time.  Also fabulous was a second appetizer, a three onion crab dip with chips.  Other restaurants fail miserably in preparing similar dips, but at the Butcher & Fisherman restaurant, it appeared divinely inspired.  

My main entree, the Saint Jaque shrimp and scallops with a wine and saffron sauce was absolutely extraordinary (although I would have appreciated more than the seven or so shrimp).  We sopped up the sauce with the terrific French (don't tell anyone) bread.  Kim had a Bourbon New York strip steak which was quite savory as well.  Among the fine selection of classic gourmet bistro sandwiches, it's hard to imagine any better than the grilled New York sirloin sandwich served with fire-roasted onions and topped with blue cheese sauce.