In an early episode of the Andy
Griffith Show, while contemplating a job offer in South America, Andy
tried to assuage his son Opie's concerns about leaving Mayberry but
wound up confusing him by explaining that people in South America ate
something called tortillas. Opie wondered aloud why anyone would
eat spiders (tarantulas).
Had Opie ever tasted the delicious,
piping hot, just off the comal 16-inch buttered orbs at Duran's Central
Pharmacy, it's unlikely he would ever confuse those grilled spheres with
any arachnid.
That's because Duran's features some of the very
best tortillas of any restaurant in New Mexico. These are not the
paper-thin, production-line, machine-fashioned orbs you find at some
restaurants. Duran's tortillas are made to order on a real comal.
You can tell and appreciate the difference.
The tortillas are thick
and have a pinto pony blend of char and white. While it may seem
the wait staff brushes on butter in parsimonious amounts, you're almost
guaranteed to have some butter drip onto your clothing. These
tortillas arrive at your table piping hot and absolutely delicious--a
wonderful precursor to a great meal!
True
to its name, Duran's Central Pharmacy is an old-fashioned pharmacy in
which prescription medicines are dispensed. The dining area is
nestled in the southern portion of the pharmacy and you absolutely have
to navigate the aisles of the drug store to get there.
In addition to the
typical prescription and nonprescription
pharmaceuticals found at any drug
store, you'll also find groceries, greeting cards and under glass near
the cash registers, a section of fine chocolates that you'll want for
dessert after your meal of great New Mexican food.
On the dividing wall
immediately before the restaurant is a section of books, mostly about
New Mexico and by New Mexico authors. Some are gems. The
pharmacy is also reputed to carry an excellent selection of perfumes,
but perhaps no artificial fragrance compares to the aroma wafting from
the kitchen.
The restaurant portion
of Duran's consists of a dozen tables, a small covered patio and a
sit-down counter from which you can watch the industrious kitchen and
wait staffs assiduously keeping up with the intense breakfast and lunch
crowds.
Despite the unusual
restaurant setting, Duran's is, when on, one of the best New Mexican
restaurants in the Albuquerque area. I use the clarifier
"when on" because Duran's has suffered from inconsistency,
sometimes serving over-salted and anglosized (no bite) red chile.
Conversely when on, Duran's is good--very good--as in excellent to
outstanding good.
The red chile lacks the
cumin influence (corruption) so prevalent in the chile served in many
New Mexican restaurants. The only ameliorant to that chile appears
to be a touch of garlic. That chile provides a tantalizing, tongue
tingling touch to the entrees on which it is served.
In the Alibi's annual
"Best of Burque" restaurant poll for 2006, Duran's Central Pharmacy
earned accolades for serving the "best red chile in town." It was
also runner-up for the best green chile. The red is usually more
piquant.
With a menu somewhat
smaller than offered at its competitors, Duran focuses on preparing a
limited number of items in mostly traditional ways.
A good example is the
combination plate which includes a thin masa tamale with shredded beef,
an enchilada and a crispy taco, all of which are chamber of commerce
examples of genuine New Mexico cuisine.
Ditto for the green chile stew, perhaps the restaurant's most popular
entree. It's heart-warming, hardy New Mexico comfort food and
married with a thick tortilla is better than a burger with fries any
day.
Daily specials include a stuffed sopaipilla platter (my favorite) on
Wednesdays and Fridays, but absolutely no salsa.
Duran's is a
neighborhood institution in which neighbors congregate to catch up and
enjoy a belly pleasing meal. Despite its proximity to Old Town, it
is frequented more by locals than by the tourist throngs.
