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Category Archives: Gone But Not Forgotten

Ravioli Italian Kitchen – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Ravioli Italian Kitchen at 4320 The 25 Way, N.E.

The older I get, the more my favorite part of the Academy Awards every year is the teary-eyed tribute to all the famous screen legends who passed away during the preceding twelve months.  The montage of glitterati greatness on the “In Memoriam” segment not only provides a much-needed respite from self-absorbed acceptance speeches and tedious dance numbers, it  evokes a flood of memories and emotions as viewers pause to remember the movie makers who have touched us all.

Similarly, the closure of a favorite restaurant gives diners pause to reflect on meals we’ve had at restaurants gone, but not forgotten. Even in booming economic times, restaurants have a higher mortality rate than most, if not all, businesses.  It’s the natural order of the restaurant business that not all restaurants are destined to survive.  Closures aren’t always the consequence of an economic malaise.  Nearly thirty percent of restaurants close within their first year of operation.

So why a dour diatribe instead of my usual effusive celebration of a restaurant I just visited?  Ravioli Italian Kitchen, we found out, will be closed for good on Friday, September 1st, 2012.  Launched in November, 2011, Ravioli demonstrated promise and potential, but was never able to consistently draw in the types of crowds needed to succeed over a long term.  Ravioli joins a number of chain and independent restaurants which have failed in The 25 Way, a contemporary mixed office and retail environment with good exposure to I-25.

Ravioli Italian Kitchen has many of the elements and attributes of a restaurant which should have succeeded.  Owner Kathy Punya has a proven track record of success with her Sushi King restaurant enterprise throughout the metropolitan area.  Its The 25 Way storefront is functional, attractive and inviting.  The menu is diverse and interesting with housemade pastas and desserts a plenty as well as made-to-order cooking.  Service is friendly and attentive.  With staunch competition for disposable dollars, these factors were apparently not enough.  Perhaps in another time and place…

Garden salad with blue cheese dressing

True to the name on the marquee, the Ravioli Italian Kitchen menu does showcase ravioli, the traditional Italian pasta dish made of pasta dough stuffed with filling.  Diners have their choice of sauce: Alfredo, marinara, green chile-jalapeño, basil, pesto, ancho cream, mushroom cream, vino blanco, Arribiata and meat sauce.  Ravioli fillings are lobster, cheese, beef and portobello.  The ravioli are made in-house as are other Italian pastas.

The menu holds no real surprises and is sectioned logically: appetizers, salads, soups, pasta, entrees, ravioli, “on the lighter side” and desserts.  It’s not an especially innovative Italian menu, so the difference-maker here has to be execution–the quality of ingredients, their preparation, how they’re presented, the authenticity of the dishes and how they’re delivered.  It’s in execution (lack thereof) that Urbanspoon reviewers have rated Ravioli poorly.  Our inaugural experience was a mix of highlights and low spots, the latter of which could be remedied with time and attention.  Alas, Ravioli Italian Kitchen won’t be given a second chance.

Pork and Fennel Ragu:
Ground pork slow cooked with rosemary, fennel, pancetta, vegetables with freshly grated parmesan cheese and bucatini pasta!

The appetizer menu has some de rigueur standards such as calamari fritti, fried mozzarella cheese and fried zucchini.  As with many Italian restaurants, an antipasto is also offered, but this one is presented just a bit differently.  It’s in the form of three skewers of black and green olives, slices of salami, pepperoni, mozzarella cheese and grape tomatoes served with toasted bread, artichokes, buttercrisp crackers and an olive tapenade.  As antipastos go, this one is a nice mix of vegetable to meat though a greater diversity of cheese would have made it even better.

All entrees are served with a side salad (cucumbers, tomatoes, julienne carrots and mixed greens) with several salad dressings from which to choose.  A housemade berry vinaigrette, the color of beets, has a balanced flavor of fruitiness and sweetness.  The blue cheese dressing has a plethora of veiny blue cheese crumbles and is both thick and redolent with the flavor of blue cheese and not some thick mayo-base.

Spaghetti Carbonara: Pancetta, Parmesan and Egg Tossed Together To Form a Creamy Sauce

One entree not standard at most Italian restaurants is Ravioli’s pork and fennel ragu.  Now, if you’re thinking Ragu as in the ubiquitous bottled-and-heated spaghetti and pasta sauce, remedial Italian Cuisine 101 is in dire need.  Ragu, derived from the French word “ragout” which translates to “stew,” is actually any sauce to which meat is added.  Ravioli’s pork and fennel ragu uses ground pork which is slow-cooked with rosemary, fennel, pancetta and finely chopped vegetables (such as carrots and celery) and served with a bucatini pasta, a long, hollow Italian pasta that resembles a thick spaghetti.  The best aspects of this dish are, of course, the pancetta, an Italian cured meat made from pork belly and the fennel with its sweet anise-like flavor. 

Years ago when we lived in Ocean Springs, Mississippi, Fridays were, for about six consecutive months,  carbonara night at Salvetti’s Italian Grill.  Never before and not since have we had carbonara quite that good or quite that rich.  How good and how rich?  It was so good you couldn’t stop eating it even though you knew you’d literally be sick afterwards.  The spaghetti carbonara at Ravioli’s isn’t nearly that rich.  It’s not even in the same ballpark.  Pancetta, Parmesan and egg are tossed together to form a mildly creamy sauce, but it’s not creamy enough.  Nor is there enough pancetta (is there ever?).  

Tiramisu and Cannoli

Desserts include a number of unique offerings such as a cinnamon apple and pear “pizza” (apple compote topped with sweetened ricotta, fresh pears and caramel sauce) and a blueberry citrus calzone (citrus blueberry reduction spread on nutella and ricotta cheese).  Perhaps the latter dessert is where the carbonara’s richness went.  Also available are such standards as Tiramisu and cannoli.  The cannoli shells are dipped in chocolate then rolled in crushed almonds while the filling is a mix of sweetened ricotta, candied orange and mini chocolate chips.  It’s not as sweet as some cannoli tends to be.  Neither is the tiramisu which is moist and redolent with a mellow coffee flavor.

The Ravioli Italian Kitchen will soon be referred to in a past tense terms and will be relegated to the “Gone But Not Forgotten” menu of this blog.  It’s a restaurant at which memories have been made, hopefully mostly good ones.  Duke City diners, especially those who count it among their favorites, still have nearly a week to add to those memories. Others of us who haven’t yet visited Ravioli can still do so before it’s too late.

Ravioli Italian Kitchen
4320 The 25 Way, N.E. Map.41286b1
Albuquerque, New Mexico

LATEST VISIT: 25 August 2012
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: *
COST: $$
BEST BET:

Ravioli Italian Kitchen on Urbanspoon

Miss Saigon Bar & Grill – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Central Cabana and Miss Saigon on Central Avenue

When it closed on Broadway in 2001, the three-time Tony Award-winning musical Miss Saigon had been seen by some six million people during a running of 4,092 performances, making it the sixth longest running show in Broadway history.  Outside of Broadway, Miss Saigon was opened by 26 theater companies worldwide, translated into eleven different languages and played in 23 countries throughout the world.  The epic musical even had an eight performance run in Albuquerque’s Popejoy Hall in 2003. 

During of our inaugural visit to Miss Saigon Bar & Grill in July, 2012, the restaurant was celebrating an eight month run of its own.  Though it may not be playing to turn-away crowds…yet, there are some indications this is a restaurant with staying power.  It may not be entirely accurate, however, to call it a restaurant and even the “bar & grill” portion of its name doesn’t do it justice.  Along with Central Cabana with whom it shares a commodious edifice, Miss Saigon is part of a large, multifarious entertainment complex.

The commodious complex accommodates 400 guests

That complex includes a nightclub which showcases live Mexican bands on Fridays and Saturday nights.  There isn’t a seat in the house which doesn’t have a view of a large flat screen television (16 of them) on which pay-per-view boxing matches and other sporting events are telecast.  A large, full-service bar proffers adult libations of all types.  Catering is available for parties, birthdays, weddings and quincinieras.  The dining area, easily and by far the largest of any Vietnamese restaurant in the Duke City, can accommodate as many as 400 people and has a professional stage and dance floor.

Seating is more functional than it is comfortable, but from the minute you’re greeted at the front desk, you’re literally enveloped in hospitality.  The two pulchritudinous servers are normally attired in traditional “Ao Dai,” an ensemble of trousers and a gown that accentuates the beauty and grace of the wearers.  The servers are as friendly and attentive as you’ll find in New Mexico.  They’ll happily answer any of your questions and provide recommendations when necessary.

Grilled Pork Sausage Spring Rolls

Miss Saigon’s menu belies the capaciousness of the complex. That’s not to say it’s a small menu. It’s just not as compendium-like as the menu at smaller Vietnamese restaurants throughout the Duke City, some of which have more than 120 items. If it’s true that you eat with your eyes first, the dining experience at Miss Saigon truly begins when you peruse the menu which includes beautiful color photographs of the appetizers and entrees. That’s not something you see at every Vietnamese restaurant in the Duke City.

The appetizer menu lists eight items including a “Vietnamese sub sandwich” (banh mi to those of us who frequent Vietnamese restaurants). Appetizers include vegetable rolls which resemble maki (sushi) rolls and a couple of other items heretofore not seen at other local Vietnamese restaurants. Courtesy of the color photographs, you can almost imbibe the fragrance of the steamy pho on the pho menu. Other pages on the menu are dedicated to “Rice Vermicelli,” “Rice Dishes,” “Stir Fried Dishes” and “Vegetarian Dishes,” categories which, were it not for the color photographs, do very little to express the breadth, complexity and deliciousness of the entrees.

Shrimp Sausage in bean curd wrap

In addition to beers, wines and cocktails, the beverage menu features Pepsi products, but that’s what the unacculturated order.  Adventurous diners will opt for Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk or perhaps fresh juice (orange, lemon or pennywort (a member of the carrot and dill family)).  You can also have a Vietnamese version of a shake which tends to be much thicker and colder than its American counterpart.  Miss Saigon offers strawberry, strawberry with banana, avocado, coconut, sour sop, mango, mango with pineapple and though it’s not on the menu, they’ll occasionally offer durian shakes.  Durian is not the most popular fruit, even among Vietnamese, because of its reputation for being the most malodorous fruit in the world.  It’s my very favorite of all the Vietnamese shakes.  Miss Saigon’s version is terrific with a unique bouquet preceding each taste.

Among the appetizers, the grilled pork sausage spring rolls are especially intriguing because they’re not commonly offered at many Vietnamese restaurants, the preferred filler being shrimp in one form or another.  Similar to shrimp stuffed spring rolls, these include thin noodles and mint wrapped in an almost translucent rice wrapper, but it’s the thinly sliced Chinese sausage that imparts the biggest impression on your taste buds.  It’s a slightly sweet sausage with a coarse texture and is as addictive as any sausage known to man.  The spring rolls are served with a very light fish sauce which just doesn’t have the personality we’ve experienced in other fish sauce.  Its most discernible flavor is sweetness, but it’s not overly sweet.  It could use some piquancy.

Steamed Rice Vermicelli Platter with Grilled Beef wrapped in Wild Betel Leaves

The shrimp sausage in bean curd wrap is an interesting starter, first because shrimp sausage almost seems like a contradiction in terms and secondly because shrimp sausage is much more common in Chinese and Filipino cuisine.  At first glance, it appears this starter is wrapped in layers of delicate phyllo dough.  The fact that anyone can give bean curds the texture and feel of phyllo dough is also intriguing.  Insofar as flavor and texture, this, too, is interesting.  There is a nuanced flavor of shrimp, but it’s subtle.  The texture is chewy yet soft. 

Interesting and unique doesn’t stop with the appetizers.  The steamed rice vermicelli platter with grilled beef wrapped in wild betel leaves was something new to us.  At least the betel leaves part of the dish was.  We’ve had the steamed rice vermicelli noodles (called patter noodles at May Hong and Cafe Dalat) before.  The noodles hardly seem to be noodles at all.  They appear to be more like a one large rice noodle sheet in a cheesecloth pattern.  It’s traditional to wrap the grilled pork (which is already wrapped in wild betel leaves) first in patter noodles then in lettuce leafs with mint, julienned carrots, crushed peanuts and fresh mint leaves inside.  These lettuce wraps are then dipped in fish sauce.  It’s an amazing entree!

Simple, but exquisite pho

There are a number of dishes available only after 4PM including a couple made for two.  The most enthusiastically recommended dish (and not because it’s the most expensive on the lunch menu) is the Miss Sai Gon Special Rice Dish with grilled pork chop, shredded pork, meat loaf, egg, pork sausage and shrimp sausage in bean curd wrap.  This entree is made even more special because it’s prefaced by a small bowl of simple, but absolutely exquisite pho, the type of pho in which the flavor of the beef stock is enhanced by unctuous marrow and bones.  The only additions are dried shrimp, scallions and parsley.  It’s such a terrific pho that I know what I’ll be ordering next visit.

The Sai Gon Special Rice dish is indeed special.  It’s also large enough for two.   From among the beautifully decorated platter, the most surprising dish is the grilled pork, a bone-in pork chop grilled to perfection.  The grilling influence is apparent in the light smokiness, but the savory, smoky flavor profile also includes a hint of sweetness I suspect comes from just a bit of brown sugar and fish sauce.  In any event, it’s one of my favorite “pork chops” in Albuquerque.  The shredded pork is also unique in that the pork resembles noodles in texture and appearance, but has the flavor of dry pork.  The “meat loaf” resembles a cupcake.  It has an interesting texture–soft and chewy–and unique flavor.   The broken rice is intended to be eaten with the fried egg served over sunny side up so the yolk runs down onto the rice.  With a little of the diluted fish sauce, it’s a delightful treat.

Miss Sai Gon Special Rice Dish with Grilled Pork Chop, Shredded Pork, meat loaf, egg, pork sausage, Shrimp sausage in bean curd wrap

The highly esteemed Jim Millington, a long-time friend of this blog, contends “there must be a bad Vietnamese restaurant somewhere on this wide earth but I have never found it.”  He won’t find it on the intersection of Central and Rhode Island.  Instead he’ll find another very good Vietnamese eatery that beckons for return visits.

Miss Saigon
7915 Central Avenue, N.E. Map.d11779f
Albuquerque, New Mexico
LATEST VISIT: 07 July 2012
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: *
COST: $$
BEST BET: Miss Sai Gon Special Rice Dish, Steamed Rice Vermicelli Platter with Grilled Beef wrapped in Wild Betel Leaves, Grilled Pork Sausage Spring Rolls, Shrimp Sausage in bean curd wrap

Miss Sai Gon Bar & Grill on Urbanspoon

Timbuctu Bistro – Rio Rancho, New Mexico (CLOSED)

The Timbuctu Bistro is on the southeast corner of the Mariposa Information Center

Growing up in bucolic Peñasco back when fires were still started by rubbing two sticks together and mastodons roamed the Earth, I distinctly remember hearing playmates uttering the term “going all the way to Timbuktu.”  Considering we all thought Albuquerque was a million miles away, we couldn’t imagine just how far away Timbuktu must be.  Some of us reasoned it  existed only as a figment of the imagination similar to Oz, Neverland and Atlantis (Hogwarts, Narnia and Jurassic Park for you Generation Yers).  Even adult teachers whom we asked dismissed it as a distant land in deepest, darkest Africa though it was obvious they weren’t quite sure where it actually was…or if it existed at all.

Though seemingly synonymous with “some far away place,” Timbuktu does exist and imaginative children of all ages do visit it on occasion.   Timbuktu is a city of some 50,000 citizens–the most remote city, in fact, in the country of Mali, the crown jewel of West Africa.  It’s located between the southern edge of the mighty Sahara and the great bend of the Niger River.  Not only is it far away, it is difficult to get there, the only reliable route in or out being by chartered aircraft.

Restaurant impresario and Timbuctu Bistro owner Nico Ortiz (far right) discusses the daily menu

When you visit the Timbuctu Bistro in Rio Rancho, it’s pretty obvious how the restaurant got its name.   It’s about four miles north of the Santa Ana Star Center which even most of Rio Rancho’s citizenry erroneously believe is as far northwest as you can go and still be in the City of Vision.  There’s a vast expanse of sage and sand as far as the eyes can see on both sides of the two lane Unser Boulevard on the way to Mariposa, the environmentally-responsible master-planned community in which the Bistro is located. The Bistro is housed in complex which was previously home to the much-missed Outlook Cafe.

Its perceived distance will likely make the Timbuctu Bistro a true destination restaurant, an  exclusive enclave far away from the bustling well-beaten and well-eaten path that defines the Rio Rancho’s dining scene. In truth, however, from the intersection of Rio Rancho’s Unser and Southern Boulevards, the Timbuctu Bistro is almost equidistant to the Cottonwood Mall. There are far fewer traffic lights, no traffic snarls and once you’re past the turnoff to Northern, virtually no other traffic and only a couple of residential neighborhoods.

French Toast: two slices of locally-made Challah bread battered with a spiced orange liqueur, grilled golden brown and topped with vanilla whipped cream and fresh berries; served with warm syrup

There’s another reason for the name Timbuctu Bistro.  The charming restaurant which opened in May, 2012, is owned by Rio Rancho restaurant impresario Niko Ortiz, proprietor of the Turtle Mountain Brewing Company and the Fat Squirrel Pub & Grille.  The first letters of each word in Turtle Mountain Brewing Company (TMBC) are virtually an acronym for Timbuctu, ergo the name.  The Bistro is ensconced in a 1,200 square-foot corner space in the capacious two-story business center, a modern edifice with plenty of glass to take advantage of wondrous panoramic views.  From the ground-level cafe, your views are of the Sandia, Sangre de Cristo, Manzano and Ortiz Mountains, views which seem even more spectacular from the patio.

The Bistro has a beer and wine license, but for those of us who appreciate other adult beverages, there’s  Villa Myriam Specialty Coffee, a start-up franchise owned and operated by Juan and David Certain.  The hand-picked Colombian Arabica bean is hand-roasted in Albuquerque.  It’s an excellent coffee, best described on the Villa Myriam Web site: “A very intense fragrance and aroma with an exotic flavor and a medium to heavy body, very balanced cup with a strong character and very pleasant after taste. With nutty cacao and hints of caramel smokiness notes. With the richness and flavor that makes Colombian coffee famous.”   Only at Cafe Bella have I had a better Cafe Au Lait in New Mexico.

Crab Cake Benedict: Two green chile crab cakes topped with poached eggs smothered in house-made Hollandaise and served with hash browns

The Timbuctu Bistro is open for lunch Tuesday through Friday from 11AM to 3PM and for dinner Tuesday through Sunday starting at 5PM.  Brunch is served Saturdays and Sundays from 9AM to 3PM.  The menu is surprisingly ambitious considering the Bistro’s tiny confines, though it’s not an especially large menu (four appetizers, three salads, seven lunch entrees, six dinner entrees and eight brunch entrees).  It’s a menu wholly unlike that at either of Niko Ortiz’s other restaurant ventures and it has a distinct New Mexican influence.  Burgers and sandwiches dominate the lunch menu while more sophisticated offerings (including a red chile bourbon glazed salmon) are available for dinner.  Aside from the salads, the most vegetarian-friendly items on the menu are a quesadilla (flour tortilla with Monterey Jack, tri-colored bell pepper-onion mix served with guacamole and sour cream) and a hummus cups (red chile hummus piled into crisp cucumber cups, each garnished with diced tomato, a pita chip and fresh basil) appetizer.

Brunch is the best of two worlds–not quite breakfast and not quite lunch, but the best of both. It’s a leisurely weekend repast which makes you feel you’re getting away with something, as if you’re defying your mom’s mandate not to have dessert before the main entree.  The Timbuctu Bistro has some of the standard New Mexico brunch favorites such as a breakfast burrito and French toast, but some are distinct enough not to be classified as the “same old, same old.”   Take the French Toast, for example.  Two slices of locally-made Challah bread are battered with a spiced orange liqueur then grilled golden brown and topped with vanilla whipped cream and fresh berries.  The spiced orange liqueur adds a nice citrusy touch and it’s hard to dispute that Challah bread makes the very best French toast.

Classic Breakfast: Two fried eggs over easy, two slices of bacon, a tortilla and yogurt with fresh fruit

For a uniquely New Mexico twist on a traditional favorite, you can’t beat the Bistro’s Crab Cake Benedict, two green chile crab cakes topped with poached eggs smothered in house-made Hollandaise and served with hash browns.  My friend  Larry McGoldrick, the professor with the perspicacious palate, contends “green chile is strictly forbidden” on crab cakes, but I believe these would make a convert out of him.  The crab cakes are fashioned from jumbo lump crab meat which is impregnated with the incomparable flavor of New Mexico roasted green chile–only enough to be discernible, not to dominate.  For good measure, the house-made Hollandaise is lightly dusted with red chile.  Only at the Gold Street Caffe will you find a comparable Southwest influenced Eggs Benedict dish.

If you’re not in an adventurous mood, the Bistro offers a Classic Breakfast option (two eggs any style with your choice of bacon, house-made chorizo (cumin added) or Canadian bacon served with hash browns and sourdough toast).  You can also substitute a tortilla and yogurt with fresh fruit for the hash browns and sourdough toast.  The yogurt is sweetened with honey, a nice contrast to the tangy, fresh berries and the creamy, pleasantly sour flavor of yogurt. 

The Piña Burger: Half-Pound Beef Patty topped with a tequila pineapple salsa, Canadian bacon, Provolone and Teriyaki served on ciabatta

Lunch options include three intriguing gourmet burgers, all of which start with a half-pound beef patty on ciabatta.  One of the burgers, the Piña burger, answers the question as to what a burger version of a Hawaiian pizza might look and taste like.  The beef toppings include a tequila pineapple salsa, Canadian bacon, Provolone and teriyaki sauce.  The saltiness of the Canadian bacon (which not even Ree Drummond, the Pioneer Woman can distinguish from ham) is a nice foil for the sweet-tart flavors of the finely chopped pineapple and the nuttiness of the Provolone.  The ciabatta is toasted so the edges are crisp and the insides are soft.

You can also substitute a marinated portabello mushroom cap or eight-ounce chicken breast on any burger for no additional charge.  Better still, if you’re on a no- or low-carb diet, substitute the ciabatta for two large portobello buns. My friend Paul “Boomer” Lilly swears by this on “The Green Machine,” Timbuctu’s rendition of a green chile cheeseburger which also includes applewood smoked bacon, green chile, Cheddar, spicy chipotle mayo and a fried egg.  All burgers and sandwiches come with your choice of tri-color rotini pasta salad or classic potato salad, but you can substitute a side salad or classic potato salad for a dollar more.

The Green Machine: half-pound beef patty (normally served on ciabatta, but pictured above with two portabello mushrooms in lieu of buns) topped with applewood smoked bacon, green chile, Cheddar, spicy chipotle mayo and a fried egg.

Aside from the burgers, the lunch menu offers a quesadilla, five sandwiches and a Pasta Al Fresco entree (angel hair pasta tossed in garlic white wine sauce with capers, grape tomatoes and basil chiffonade served with garlic toast points and your choice (for a cost) of a four-ounce chicken breast, four-ounce salmon, spicy Italian sausage or citrus-marinated shrimp.  It’s a surprisingly sophisticated entree with a richness of flavors.  The Italian sausage has a nice kick to complement the buttery silkiness of the fine pasta. 

Dinner at Timbuctu is a more upscale event with a smattering of New Mexican and Southwest inspired entrees (Southwest Alfredo, Red Chile Bourbon-Glazed Salmon, Fajitas and Carne Adovada) among a chops menu some steak houses would envy.  The veal chop and herb-crusted rack of lamb are knocking on the forty dollar price point, but if they taste nearly as good as they’re described on the menu, they’ll be worth the price.  Burgerphiles can also have The Green Machine if they’re so inclined.

Pasta Al Fresco: Angel hair pasta tossed in garlic white wine sauce with capers, grape tomatoes and basil chiffonade served with garlic toast points and spicy Italian sausage

Timbuktu has long had the connotation of a place so distant that going any farther is inconceivable.  The Timbuctu Bistro may someday be known not for being the furthest away (at least from the city’s population center) of Rio Rancho’s restaurants, but for being a viable, delicious dining option worth the drive from anywhere in the area.

Timbuctu Bistro
2500 Parkway Avenue Map.13c819a
Rio Rancho, New Mexico
LATEST VISIT: 26 June 2012
1st VISIT:  12 May 2012
# OF VISITS: 2
RATING: 19
COST: $$
BEST BET: Crab Cake Benedict, Classic Breakfast, French Toast, Coffee Au Lait, Piña Burger, The Green Machine

Timbuctu Bistro on Urbanspoon