Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog

Follow the Culinary Ruminations of New Mexico's Sesquipedalian Sybarite. 741 Restaurant Reviews, More Than 4000 Visitor Comments…And Counting!

Oak Tree Cafe – Albuquerque, New Mexico

OakTree01

The Oak Tree Cafe is now on Alameda as of April, 2013

This isn’t Burger King!
You can’t have it your way.
You get it our way or you don’t get it at all.

For some reason, human beings seem inclined to level criticism by the shovelful while apportioning praise and plaudits by the thimbleful.  We  seem genetically predisposed to put more stock into negativity than we are to believe the best of others.  We consider compliments to be based on insincerity or ulterior motives.  Even our television viewing preferences gravitate toward gratuitous depictions of misbehavior and depravity.  We consider unwatchable any movie or television show portraying kindness and humanity.

That grim indictment of humanity is, by virtue of its own unflattering characterization, itself an example of misanthropic pathos.  In the spirit of John 8:7, I will cast the first stone at myself.  For years, I heard about a humble little sandwich shop in which customer service was said to be more than a slogan; it was a way of doing business.  Instead of embracing this supposed people-pleasing panacea, my first inclination was skepticism and a willingness to lump the Oak Tree Cafe with any number of other eateries which provide good service, albeit with transparent insincerity.

OakTree02

Affable proprietor Rob Carson at the counter where you place your order

You’re no doubt familiar with the type of restaurant of which I’m talking  (chains are especially good at this). The minute you walk in, a painted-on smile approaches you and begins the well-rehearsed wait “schtick” that typically begins with something like, “I’m Julie and I’ll be your server tonight.”  Periodic visits to your table (usually when your mouth is full) include perfunctory chit chat as well as refills and more napkins.  Though typically not unpleasant, this type of service is still rather impersonal and unmemorable.  It’s essentially a game of reciprocal expectations between customer and client; both parties know what to expect and fulfill their respective roles.  It’s basically harmless.

Unfortunately, as feedback to this blog will attest, for some restaurants, harmless would be a vast improvement. Some restaurants, it seems, don’t seem to understand that good customer service is the lifeblood of any business. All too often, customer service appears to be of the “This isn’t Burger King!  You can’t have it your way.” variety.   This type of service is characterized by a haughty disregard for the axiom that the customer is always right.  Its rendition of the golden rule stops at “do onto others” as in “do ignore them,” “do belittle them,” do patronize them.”  Quite naturally it dissuades return visits.

The Taos: Hot USDA Choice Top Round Roast Beef, Melted Monterey Jack, Grilled Onions, Grilled Chile, Tomato, Mayo and Lettuce on a Fresh-Baked Kaiser Roll

Since most customer service seems to fall somewhere between the impersonal and well-rehearsed wait schtick and the “you get it our way or you don’t get it at all” approach, you’ll forgive me if I was skeptical about the Oak Tree Cafe.  It really is too easy to be cynical about a restaurant which has made its reputation not only because of its great sandwiches, but because of its genuinely warm, personable and attentive service.  Though I’m not from Missouri, Oak Tree would just have to show me.

The Oak Tree Cafe was founded just over a quarter century ago by the father-son duo of Michael and Rob Carson who worked side-by-side until Michael’s death at age 86 in 2009.  Today Rob is ably assisted by a kitchen staff which abides with the cafe’s long-standing tradition of excellent customer service.  In the tradition of Cheers, television’s friendliest bar, it seems everyone–or at least Rob–knows the name of all regulars as they walk in.  He also knows each regular’s “usual,” what those regular patrons like to order when they visit.  If my first visits are any indication, the regulars outnumber new visitors undoubtedly eager to find out if the cafe’s reputation for outstanding food and exceptional service is well deserved.

Special of the Day: Hot Corned Beef on Rye toast Topped with Grilled Onions, Monterey Jack Cheese, Banana Peppers, Lettuce, Tomato, Deli Mustard Served With a Side Order of Chips and Fresh Fruit

In April, 2013, the Oak Tree Cafe relocated from its Uptown location to a new shopping center at 4545 Alameda, N.E. (if you’re coming from the west, you don’t have to cross I-25 to get to the cafe).  The Oak Tree Cafe’s digs are 2,500 square-feet of welcome to west side diners whose sandwich options were primarily chain restaurants which blight their neighborhoods.  An outdoor patio with umbrella-shaded tables accommodates another forty guests or so.  At its expansive new location, the Oak Tree Cafe now serves burgers, beer, wine and appetizers. 

As of my initial visit to the Alameda location on 10 May 2013, only the famous Oak Tree bell hasn’t made it to its new home.  At the Uptown location, once you took your seat, conversations with your dining companions were periodically be punctuated by the tintinnabulation of a bell positioned by the cafe door.  As customers exited, they were invited to please ring the bell “if the food was great and service was crazy.”  Without exception, everyone exiting the premises rang the bell.  Look for the bell to make its way to Alameda soon.

OakTree07

The Oak Tree Combo Sandwich (USDA Top Round Roast Beef, Turkey Breast, Corned Beef, Ham, Melted Swiss Cheese, Melted Cheddar Cheese, Mayo, Lettuce, Tomatoes on a Kaiser Roll

For a restaurant with a reputation for service, it’s surprising to find that there is no tableside wait service.  Instead you’ll place your order at a counter, interacting with an affable server who’s happy to answer any questions you may have or to make recommendations if you need them.  When you first walk in don’t be surprised to be greeted with a friendly handshake and an introduction “I’m Rob Carson.  Welcome to the Oak Tree Cafe.”  It probably won’t be the only time you interact with Carson who’s a peripatetic presence at the restaurant, flitting throughout the premises with an ambassadorial flair.

The sandwiches warrant not only bell-ringing, but cheers. They’re that good! The sandwich and wraps menu is formidable, nearly two dozen different sandwiches crafted on fresh bread, (sub rolls, wheat, rye, white, Kaiser rolls and French rolls) either toasted or untoasted.  Meat products come from Boar’s Head.  Sandwiches are named for faithful customers, New Mexico landmarks and celebrities such as Monty Hall and Al Capone.  Each sandwich towers with meats, condiments and ingredients, some of which are infrequently found at other Duke City sandwich shops.

OakTree06

Beer-battered onion rings, some of the very best in Albuquerque

If you’re uncertain as to what sandwich to order, focus your study of the menu on those crafted with roast beef, a specialty of the house. The roast beef is slow-cooked on the premises from choice top round. It’s as tender as a marshmallow and as moist and delicious as any roast beef you’ll ever have anywhere! The Taos–hot USDA choice top round roast beef, melted Monterey Jack, grilled onions, grilled green chile, tomato, mayo and lettuce on a fresh-baked Kaiser roll–showcases layer upon layer of roast beef, so juicy and unctuous it resembles a hamburger patty until you taste it.  That’s when you gain an appreciation for how wonderful roast beef can be.  It’s especially wonderful when its flavor profile melds with the other ingredients which make this my choice for best roast beef sandwich in town.

During my inaugural visit to the Menaul location, the special of the day featured an ingredient combination–hot corned beef on rye toast topped with grilled onions, Monterey jack cheese, banana peppers, lettuce, tomato and deli mustard–that made my taste buds very happy.  The combination of banana peppers, deli mustard and grilled onions was especially notable, a complementary mix of sweet, savory and tangy flavors.  This sandwich is piled about twice as high as many other sandwiches you’ll find in local eateries.  It also stands tall above the rest in terms of pure deliciousness.

A rare way of acknowledging you liked your meal

The sprawling Alameda location is every bit as accommodating and friendly as its previous home.  Even the menu bespeaks of friendliness with the slogan “A warm, friendly atmosphere full of camaraderie and congeniality.”  Location aside, the biggest difference between one location and another is the menu which now includes three gourmet burgers, chicken sandwiches, salads and appetizers.  Sandwiches are the Oak Tree Cafe’s raison de’etre and will probably always be the most popular draw, but burgers and chicken sandwiches will beckon, too.

Although all sandwiches are served with a pickle spear and your choice of homemade apple coleslaw, homemade macaroni salad or fresh fruit, you owe it to yourself to try some of the other sides on the menu: hand-cut fries, sweet potato fries or beer-battered onion rings.  The beer-battered onion rings are among the very best in the city.  These golden hued beauties are served on a tree-like apparatus, just ready to be plucked.  Bite into them and onion juiciness squirts out, a wonderful departure from the usual desiccation you experience with out-of-the-bag onion rings most restaurants serve. 

Much as the burgers and chicken sandwiches beckon, chances are you’ll succumb to the stronger calling of a sumptuous sandwich.  One of the best is the Oak Tree Combo, a sandwich honoring the years spent at the San Mateo (Uptown) location.   This is a sandwich’s sandwich, a meaty behemoth on a Kaiser roll.  The ingredients–USDA top round roast beef, turkey breast, corned beef, melted Swiss cheese, melted Cheddar cheese, mayo, lettuce and tomatoes–go very well together.  It’s such a good sandwich, you may mourn finishing your last bite.

The Oak Tree Cafe has made a believer our of this cynic who often laments the absence of truly sincere, truly personable service coupled with excellent sandwiches. This cafe is an anachronism, a throwback to the days in which the customer was always right and you could get things done your way. At its new Alameda location, the Oak Tree Cafe is open Monday through Saturday from 11AM to 8PM.

Oak Tree Cafe
4545 Alameda, N.E.
Albuquerque, New Mexico
(505) 830-2233
LATEST VISIT: 10 May 2013
1st VISIT: 5 July 2011
# OF VISITS: 2
RATING: 21
COST: $$
BEST BET: The Taos Sandwich, Hot Corned Beef Sandwich, Oak Tree Combo, Onion Rings

Oak Tree Cafe on Urbanspoon

Limonata Trattoria – Albuquerque, New Mexico

Limonata, an Italian street food cafe in Nob Hill

While contemplating a name for their second Duke City restaurant venture, Maxime and Daniela Bouneou wanted to convey the feeling of a refreshing and invigorating venue in which their patrons could relax and enjoy themselves. After deliberating several options, they ultimately decided on Limonata, the Italian word for lemonade. When Daniela proudly told her friends in Italy what the new restaurant would be named, they laughed, reminding her that Limonata is an Italian slang term for “French kiss.”

Though Maxime and Daniela may have become a bit more “Americanized” by having lived in the United States for more than a decade, Limonata has the look, feel and most importantly, tastes of a true Italian trattoria. Limonata is the more informal and sassy younger sibling of Torinos @ Home, the sensational Italian ristorante many of the cognoscenti consider one of, if not the Land of Enchantment’s best for Italian cuisine. Limonata’s menu focuses on simple fare–Italian street food–at relatively low prices in a relaxed, family-friendly atmosphere and as the Bouneous envisioned, it’s a refreshing change of pace.

Place your order here and it will be delivered to your table in minutes

Limonata is located in Albuquerque’s Nob Hill district, one block south of Central Avenue on Silver. There’s a bit of delicious irony in that its next door neighbor is a French kiss of deliciousness, the second instantiation of P’Tit Louis Bistro. The contiguous complex which houses both restaurants is, save for the Spanish tiled roof, wholly antithetical to the abobe hued stereotype of Duke City architecture. Limonata actually more closely resembles its residential neighbors than it does other area restaurants.

Step inside the welcoming edifice and you’ll be enveloped in a swath of warm colors and the architecture of a bygone era. The front room, where you place your order invites browsing through interesting bric-a-brack, but first you’ll want to peruse the slate board on which the menu is scrawled in chalk. You’ll want to carefully study the glass display cases and their treasures. It’s a wonder there aren’t drool tracks on the glass because the tortas (Italian-style quiches) and pastries are mouth-watering.

Chocolate Croissant, the very best in Albuquerque

The best part of waking up may just be breakfast at Limonata which offers cappuccino, espresso, lattes and cioccolata calda all’Italiana (Italian hot chocolate) as well as such breakfast favorites as granola, pastries, waffles and the New Mexican breakfast standard, the breakfast burrito. Though he’s French, Maxime is such a capable chef that you can trust that the burritos will not only be delicious, they’ll be authentic. Pastries are but one of his specialties. Trust that the housemade desserts at Limonata are outstanding.

In the spirit of the true and authentic Italian trattoria, Limonata’s menu focuses on housemade pastas, fresh and locally sourced vegetables and produce, fine cheeses and delicious antipastos. The specialties of Northern Italy’s Piedmont region are showcased in a number of panini and tramezzino sandwiches made from fantastic bread procured from Albuquerque’s incomparable La Quiche Parisienne which also provides fresh croissants, tartes and chocolate croissants. You can wash down your meal with the aforementioned coffees or with the name on the marquee, a lavender limonada that will purse your lips and quench your thirst.

Salame Platter: Salame, Grilled Vegetables, Olives, Cipoline, Butter Bread

Launched on June 26th, 2012, Limonata is open from 7AM to 5PM Monday through Friday and 8AM to 5PM on Sunday and has something for all tastes, including one of the most vegetarian-friendly menus in town. The tortas are all vegetarian: zucchini with basil, goat cheese and caramelized onions; leek and Parmigiano Reggiano; oven-roasted tomatoes and caramelized onions. A grilled vegetable panini (eggplants, red bell peppers, goat cheese spread and home made pesto) is also available for diners who eschew animal flesh.

It’s been my experience (Gutiz comes to mind) that when a restaurant offers an outstanding chocolate croissant (also known as pain au chocolat), you’d better order one before they’re all gone. Don’t wait to decide if you want dessert or not. Order the chocolate croissant and don’t worry about saving the best for last. This is a life-altering chocolate croissant, on par with those at the aforementioned Gutiz. The croissant itself is very delicate and flaky. It’s also buttery, but not overly so. The chocolate is an adult chocolate, not the cloying kid stuff and there’s just enough of it.

Cheese Platter: Fontina, Gorgonzola, Goat Cheese, Pecorino, Butter Ciabatta

During our inaugural visit to Limonata, we had the great fortune of running into Maxime who was very pleased that we were enjoying the Salame Platter (salame, grilled vegetables, olives, cipoline and butter bread). Though he cared to know our opinion of everything else on our table, it was obvious he took great pride in the salame platter–for good reason. The salame is nicely marbled (but not at all greasy) and dry, the result of dry-aging for optimal flavor. It’s not overly spicy and is sliced into eighth-inch thick slices, each one oh-so-delicious. The grilled vegetables–red and green peppers and zucchini–are nicely pickled so that their natural flavors are accentuated, not masked. One of the platter’s many highlights are the pickled cipolline onions. Cipolline onions are saucer-shaped Italian pearl onions with a uniquely sweet and mild flavor. They are positively addictive.

The perfect complement to the Salame platter is, of course, the cheese platter. The European practice of serving cheese as dessert is increasingly catching on across the fruited plain, even in New Mexico. In Europe, almost any fine cheese–even the most fetid fromage–can be served as a dessert course, especially if paired with sweet elements such as fruit chutneys. Limonata’s cheese platter includes four cheeses of varying sharpness and diverse flavor profiles. They’re paired with a small bucketful of delicious butter bread and the sublime Cipolline onions. The cheeses are a Fontina, Gorgonozola, Goat Cheese and Pecorino–all different and all absolutely wonderful. The fresh, mild goat cheese is a nicely neutral foil for other flavors such as the salame while the Gorgonzola can be a bit overpowering for other flavors and is best left for last.

Ciabbata Bread Toast with Apricot Jam

A good counterpoint to the sharp Gorgonzola is the simple combination of ciabbata bread toast with sweet creamy butter and apricot jam. The jam is absolutely wonderful and it’s homemade by Maxime himself. It’s redolent of the aroma and flavors of fruit, not pectin or some other filler. The apricot jam is thick and a challenge to spread, but it’s so good you might want to eat it sans toast. You’ll want to take a couple of jars home with you. The ciabatta is lightly toasted and ridged nicely with grooves which hold in the butter and jam very well.

That terrific ciabbata is the canvas upon which Limonata’s fabulous panini sandwiches are crafted. The Pollo (poached natural chicken, tomato, capers, artichoke hearts, hard boiled egg, fresh herbs, fresh mozzarella cheese and vinaigrette) is a good bet. As with all great sandwiches, it’s a concordant marriage of diverse elements and flavors which go so well together. Nothing goes as well with a sandwich as hot soup. Limonata’s tomato-basil soup makes for a wonderful soup-sandwich pairing. It’s so good you might wish for a cold winter day so it’ll warm your bones as well as it warms your heart.

Pollo Panini: Poached natural chicken, tomato, capers artichoke hearts, hard boiled egg, fresh herbs, fresh mozzarella cheese and vinaigrette; Tomato-Basil Soup

SECOND VISIT -15 APRIL 2013: Some critics will tell you that one of the tried and true tests of an ethnic restaurant’s muster is to have someone deeply rooted in that ethnicity certify it as good.  My sister-in-law Lola DeVito-Laws is as proudly and fiercely Italian as you’ll find anywhere.  She frequents the best Italian bakeries, markets, delis, grocery stores and trattorias in the Chicago area, not to mention four and five star Italian restaurants.  We were just a bit trepidatious about taking her to a simple Italian trattoria in the Duke City.  We need not have been.  Lola loved Limonata.

She especially loved the antipasto platter (Prosciutto di Parma, Speck from Tirolo, grilled eggplant, zucchini, bell peppers, homemade tuna salad, goat cheese with extra virgin olive oil, cipolline, olive nicoise, butter and ciabatta bread).  What’s not to love?  Every glistening, oleaginous vegetable on the prodigious platter for two complements the other.  Unique and varied flavor profiles don’t always intermarry well, but every element of this platter does.  Had the platter been piled high solely with cipoline and goat cheese, it would have been a rousing success, but Maxime and Daniela leave nothing to chance.  They titillate your taste buds with an antipasto platter that is peerless in the Duke City (save for the antipasto at elder sibling Torinos @ Home).

Limonatta11

At left: Tonno Sandwich; at right: Prosciutto Sandwich

The Tonno Sandwich (canned tuna, hard-boiled egg, artichoke heart, capers, diced tomato, mayo and Fontina cheese) is a melange of strong flavors (tuna, capers, hard-boiled egg, Gorgonzola) tempered only slightly by mild and mellow flavors (Fontina, mayo, tomato).  Because of the strong elements, it won’t appeal to all taste buds.  If like me, however, you like all the individual components of this sandwich, you’ll love the collective deliciousness.  The Prosciutto Sandwich (Italian cured ham, sliced tomato, mayo and Gorgonzola cheese) will be more agreeable to most taste buds.  The sweet acidity of the tomatoes and richness of the mayo are a perfect foil for the salty qualities of the prosciutto and Gorgonzola.  The canvas for these sandwiches is a crusty sandwich roll.

Contrary to popular belief, chocolate bark (flat rectangles of rich, delicious chocolate) isn’t just a duplicitous ploy by clever confectioners to melt chocolate scraps into rectangles and charge a pretty penny for them.  Made well, chocolate bark is a gourmet quality treat replete with fresh nuts and antioxidant rich dried fruits.  At Limonata, we experienced the very best chocolate bark we’ve had in New Mexico.  The milk chocolate bark is studded with mixed nuts (pistachios, hazel nuts, almonds) and dried figs.  The dark chocolate bark is festooned with the type of dried fruits you’d find in a fruit cake (the bane of Christmas for many).  Both are exceptional!

Limonatta09

Milk Chocolate Bark with Dried Figs and Mixed Nuts

Limonata is a fabulous Italian trattoria with an inspired menu served in the European fashion. There is, however, one glaring thing wrong with it. The vivacious Daniela doesn’t spend much time at Limonata and though the staff is very accommodating and attentive, Daniela is Albuquerque’s hostess with the mostest as in the most charm, personality and warmth. Perhaps the über-talented Maxime can figure out how to clone her; he’s already figured out how to launch and operate perhaps the two best Italian restaurants in Albuquerque.

Limonata Trattoria
3222 Silver Street, S.W. Map.f8cd109
Albuquerque, New Mexico
(505) 266-0607
Web Site
LATEST VISIT: 15 April 2013
1st VISIT: 3 November 2012
# OF VISITS: 2
RATING: 22
COST: $$
BEST BET: Cheese Platter, Salame Platter, Toast and Jam, Chocolate Croissant, Pollo Panini, Antipasto Platter, Milk Chocolate Bark, Dark Chocolate Bark, Tonno Sandwich, Prosciutto Sandwich, Lavender Lemonade

Limonata Italian Street Food Caffe  on Urbanspoon

California Pastrami & More – Albuquerque, New Mexico

California Pastrami on San Pedro and Montgomery in Albuquerque

During a 1997 episode of Seinfeld, the “show about nothing,” George Costanza and his girlfriend du jour discussed the possibility of incorporating food into their lovemaking–not as a post-coital meal, but in flagrante delicto. George listed as potential food candidates: strawberries, chocolate sauce, honey and…pastrami on rye with mustard.  Yes, that’s pastrami on rye.  His girlfriend, unfortunately, failed to appreciate the erotic qualities of pastrami and thus, their relationship terminated.

Ultimately George met up with a woman who echoed his sentiments when she declared pastrami to be “the most sensual of all the salted cured meats.”  With that proclamation, their lustful appetites took over and they succumbed to the pastrami inspired throes of passion, albeit also incorporating television watching.  It’s no wonder George Costanza’s face grew flush when he ate with friends at their favorite neighborhood diner; the association of food with pleasure became a sensual one.

A pastrami Ruben

I don’t know about pastrami being the most sensual of all salted cured meats (sounds like a bit of double entendre here), but do know there are few sandwiches quite as wonderful as a pastrami sandwich.  Alas, not all pastrami is created equal.  The perfect pastrami finds its genesis as brisket given a salt, sugar and spice rub, dry cured, smoked, and cooked.  Having grown up in bucolic Northern New Mexico, I had no idea pastrami existed until the Air Force sent me to Massachusetts and I discovered pastrami at Steve’s House of Pizza in Bedford. It was love at first bite. For two years I visited delis throughout New England and New York City in search of the best pastrami.

If you’ve ever wondered what the differences are between pastrami and corned beef aside from taste and texture.  Pastrami comes from the naval area while corned beef emanates from the brisket area.  Where pastrami is given a salt and spice rub, dry cured, smoked then cooked, corned beef is cured in brine.  To me, the main difference is that pastrami is much better, but then, like George Costanza, I consider pastrami the most sensual of all salted, cured meats.

A pastrami Ruben

Since returning to New Mexico in 1995, I’ve lamented being short-changed insofar as Duke City restaurants or delis not offering a world-class pastrami product, not even close.  Fortunately semi-frequent (every few years) trips to Chicago have proven to be fulfilling pastrami pilgrimages.  Most meat distributors serving New Mexico sell a processed pretender, pastrami “loaf.” I wanted the real thing–whole beef brisket with lots of marbling and heavy, briny seasoning.

Real pastrami is also what Joseph Rodriguez wanted to bring to New Mexico.  A California native now living in New Mexico, Rodriguez was raised on hot pastrami sandwiches and like dozens of us pastrami paramours, he couldn’t find good pastrami in New Mexico.  Rodriguez buys his pastrami from a supplier who furnishes it to The Hat, a Los Angeles area pastrami sandwich shop chain.  It’s the real stuff–well marbled, briny, highly seasoned and absolutely delicious.  It’s comparable to pastrami I remember fondly in New York City, but not quite as good as my favorite pastrami in Chicago.

A pastrami burger from Albuquerque

The rest of us are thrilled that he took it a step further and begin selling it at the New Mexico state fair during the fall of 2006. His success there convinced him there was a legitimate market of passionate pastrami fanatics like me. Rodriguez didn’t start off by selling his pastrami at some fancy storefront.  He built a concession trailer and parked it on the corner of St. Francis Drive just as you turn into Alameda.  The trailer was furnished with all he needed to prepare his product and was so portable, he took it to the state fair and balloon fiesta. 

In November, 2009, Duke City pastrami aficionados no longer had to drive to Santa Fe to assuage their chile fix when Rodriguez launched California Pastrami on Alameda Boulevard.  California Pastrami was in that location until January, 2011, its closure coinciding with the opening of a location at 6125 Montgomery, N.E.  By year’s end, he had sold the concession trailer and closed the Santa Fe operation.  Ever the entrepreneur, he remains optimistic about opening a storefront location both in Albuquerque’s west side and perhaps in Santa Fe.

Corned Beef Sandwich

Having lived in the East Coast and traveled extensively in the Golden State, the term “California pastrami” gave me nightmarish visions of pesto packed pastrami desecrated with sushi grade sashimi, artichoke and the designer vegetable de jour. Fortunately, as it turns out California (or West Coast) pastrami is served on a hoagie bun with yellow mustard and dill pickles (just as some grinder shops in Massachusetts sold it). Even better, this is an outstanding sandwich.

Years ago, television and radio commercials for Reece’s Peanut Butter Cups introduced America to a catchy jingle which touted “two great tastes that taste great together” in describing the marriage of chocolate and peanut butter. Until my friend Larry McGoldrick suggested it, I had not tried a pastrami sandwich with green chile–a marriage of California and New Mexico. Indeed these are two great tastes that taste great together. Green chile can improve almost everything, including desserts. California Pastrami doesn’t shy away from piquant chile; it’s got a tongue-tingling bite and a nice roasted flavor that complements the pastrami surprisingly well.

A pastrami Ruben

You can also get your pastrami sandwich New York style–on light rye sandwich bread with grainy mustard. Having tried both California and New York style pastrami, I’m not ready to declare a preference. Both are terrific! The advantage the hoagie roll has over the rye bread is that it holds up better against the onslaught of juiciness from the fresh, delicious and utterly unctuous pastrami. The advantage of the New York style pastrami sandwich at California Pastrami is that it’s served with a side of coleslaw and a dill pickle spear.

My friend and frequent dining companion Bill Resnik thought he had partaken of good pastrami during his years of travel and was skeptical when I first brought him to California Pastrami in January, 2010. He had no idea what a difference truly great pastrami can make, his previous experiences with pastrami being less than memorable. By mid-February, he had visited the restaurant at least once a week and as often as three times in one week. He’s hooked and so are many other Duke City diners.

Philly Cheese Steak

Philly Cheesesteak

As for the “More” portion of the restaurant’s name, “more” includes burgers, fish tacos and burritos, some of which I may never try courtesy of pastrami George Costanza would have loved in the Biblical sense. It also includes corned beef and a number of burgers, including a pastrami burger. The pastrami burger is humongous, a generous amount of pastrami, a one-third pound ground beef patty with a slice of cheese, lettuce, pickle and mayonnaise on a sesame seed bun which struggles to contain all that flavor, all those ingredients. It’s a great burger!

Pastrami and corned beef are often paired together in menus and in the hearts of sandwich aficionados. California Pastrami offers a very good corned beef sandwich stacked high on light rye bread with Swiss cheese and Russian dressing. As previously stated, it’s a very good corned beef sandwich, but it’s not a special sandwich as both pastrami sandwiches are. Still, I would stack it up against any corned beef sandwich in town. It’s far superior to the one served about a block away at Jason’s Deli, a chain with a large menu. The difference is that California Pastrami’s largeness is in the flavor of its product.

Fish Tacos

Astute members of the Duke City Fix’s Chow Down in Burque Town” forum found it intriguing (to say the least) that mayonnaise and pastrami would share space in the same sentence, much less the same sandwich (the aforementioned pastrami burger).  Though a purist myself, I’ve long ceased being surprised by flavor combinations that work surprisingly well.  My first experience with pastrami and mayonnaise was at the aforementioned Deli Mart’s elder sibling on Albuquerque’s east side where the much-missed New York transplanted to Albuquerque Cerami family served their pastrami sandwiches in that fashion.  My first inclination was to declare that blasphemy, but the mayonnaise-pastrami combination was actually quite good, albeit not as good as pastrami with real deli mustard.

Call it blasphemy if you will, but I’ve long had a preference for pastrami Rubens instead of the more conventional corned beef Ruben sandwich. A pastrami Ruben at California Pastrami is a thing of beauty. Unlike other Rubens I’ve had in the Duke City, the Russian dressing doesn’t taste like a cloying Thousand Island clone and the sauerkraut won’t purse your lips with its tartness. It’s served on a lightly toasted light rye bread and includes a heaping mound of pastrami, the starring attraction of any sandwich.

The Border Dog

The Border Dog

Joe Rodriguez, like me, recognizes the potential in pastrami to improve everything it touches.  He didn’t blink an eye during a visit in which I asked for a patty melt sandwich with pastrami.  By itself, the patty melt had all the essential elements of a very good patty melt sandwich–a light rye bread grilled until toasty brown, finely chopped onions fried nearly to the point of caramelization, a hand-formed all-beef patty and rich melted cheese.  The pastrami elevated it from very good to excellent.  Next time I may just ask Joe to add pastrami to one of the burritos served at his restaurant. 

Lest you think California Pastrami is a one-trick pony whose expertise is limited to pastrami, the menu includes several burritos as well as fish tacos (on hard shells, no less) I’ve heard draw utterances of “wow” from other patrons.  The restaurant also prepares a very good Philly cheesesteak.  It’s served on a hoagie roll and is engorged to overfull with chopped beef steak, finely chopped green peppers and onions and melted white cheese.  It’s steaming hot when you bite into it and is as juicy and delicious as almost any Philly cheesesteak you’ll find in Albuquerque (my favorite being the one at Itsa Italian Ice).  You won’t find a speck of excess fat or sinew on the beef which is very tender.

10 APRIL 2013:  Several years ago, television commercials for a pseudo Mexican fast food chain encouraged diners to “make a run for the border.”  Duke City diners should run, not walk, to California Pastrami to partake of a new menu item called The Border Dog.  The Border Dog is perhaps as close to a Sonoran Hot Dog as you’ll find in Albuquerque. The hot dog is wrapped in bacon and deep-fried.  Nestled in the bun are caramelized onions and chopped jalapeños.  Perhaps some sort of jalapeño mayo would

Another addition, perhaps in response to complaints of bread which withered neath the moistness of the steamed pastrami, is a much improved bread baked on the premises.  The bread is chewy and formidable enough for the moistness of the steamed pastrami.  It doesn’t wither and doesn’t get soggy.  Best of all, it’s a delicious bread which disproves the notion that good bread can’t be baked in the alkaline-rich Albuquerque area.

California Pastrami & More
6125 Montgomery, N.E.
Albuquerque, New Mexico
505-730-4507
Web Site

LATEST VISIT: 10 April 2013
# OF VISITS: 16
RATING: 20
COST: $$
BEST BET: California Style Pastrami Sandwich, New York Style Pastrami Sandwich, Corned Beef Sandwich, Pastrami Burger, Philly Cheese Steak, Pastrami Ruben Sandwich, Fish Tacos, The Border Dog


View California Pastrami – Montgomery on LetsDineLocal.com »

California Pastrami on Urbanspoon