Never mind an Emmy.  If the Hollywood Reporter and the Huffington Post have their way, comedian Larry David might qualify for the Nobel Peace Prize.  That is if a 2011 episode of Curb Your Enthusiasm can do what diplomats and politicians have failed to do over the years.  In the episode, entitled Palestinian Chicken, Larry discovers a Palestinian restaurant that serves the tastiest chicken in Los Angeles.  The problem is that the restaurant is owned and operated by anti-Semitic Palestinians and Larry is Jewish. 

Now, Larry could hardly be considered a peace-maker by any stretch of the imagination.  In fact, his lusty ardor for both the chicken and the restaurant’s proprietor, override his loyalty to Judaism and the local Jewish community.  The episode so impressed Alan Dershowitz, appellate adviser to O.J. Simpson’s defense team, that he sent a copy to Israeli Prime Minister Netanyahu with the suggestion that he invite Palestinian President Abbas over to watch it with him.  Dershowitz’s theory: “maybe if they both get a good laugh, they can begin a negotiating process.”

Negotiating world peace over dinner isn’t exactly a novel concept.  A New York group named World Peace, One Falafel at a Time aims to bring Jews, Muslims and people of other faiths together over food.  The group’s mission statement is clear: Through a shared plate of food we create a common ground that fosters trust and understanding. When people share a simple meal together, boundaries disappear, discussion becomes possible, and healing can begin. We come together not as a meeting of a thousand, but as one hundred meetings of ten. 

It wasn’t world peace my friend Bruce “Sr. Plata” and I had in mind when we set foot in Yasmine’s Cafe one fine May day in 2013.  It was whirled chickpeas (hummus) which beckoned.  We wanted to give chickpeas a chance.  It was Sr. Plata’s inaugural visit to Yasmine’s and my first visit in nearly five years.  A lot has changed in five years.

Yasmine’s, which launched in late 2003, was one of several Mediterranean and Middle Eastern restaurants which launched in the Duke City during the century’s first decade.  Albuquerque’s climate and topography is somewhat similar to that of the Mediterranean region, but it’s more likely that the explosion (more like a cap pistol than dynamite) in Middle Eastern restaurants in the city is because Albuquerque has finally become sufficiently metropolitan in size, population and sophistication to host several good to outstanding Middle Eastern restaurants? Whatever the reason for that growth, local diners are grateful.

Named for one of the original owner’s daughters, Yasmine’s offers all the traditional favorites of the Middle East region. It has the authentic look and feel of a restaurant somewhere in the cradle of civilization and is a welcome departure from the boring sameness of chains.  Yasmine’s is owned by a Palestinian family and has developed a wide reputation as a haven not only for Muslims, but for anyone craving authentic and delicious Mediterranean cuisine.

A set of Islamic Shariʻah dietary laws called “halal” regulates the preparation of foods (not just meat) at Yasmine’s Cafe. Halal, a term which translates to “permitted” means all food must pass strict dietary guidelines very similar to kosher rules. No antibiotics and hormones are permitted on meats and all animals must be treated humanely from field to table.  The person slaughtering an animal must evoke the name of Allah during the slaughter.  Pork is strictly forbidden. 

The menu at Yasmine’s showcases the cuisine of the Mediterranean not inclusive of the foods of Spain, France and Italy.  It demonstrates the commonalities of regional foods, preparation styles and spices that cross cultural and religious barriers.  It showcases the foods of Palestine, Israel, Turkey, Greece and even parts of North Africa.  Rotisserie chicken is on the menu, but you’ve got call in an order a day in advance.  Otherwise, every other item is available on-the-spot and ordered from a counter.

Baba Ghanoush, a smoky dip made from eggplant and tahini with a smooth, creamy texture is one of the most popular starters at Yasmine’s and is served with one of the vegetarian platters, too. It makes the perfect dip for the warm, fresh out-of-the-oven pita bread.  Open up the pita bread and wisps of fragrant steam escape, an olfactory invitation to an addictive pita.  The baba ghanoush, while texturally a success, isn’t spiced quite as heavily as at other Mediterranean restaurants.  That is a common theme at Yasmine’s. 

Another popular starter is the stuffed eggplant, four eggplant slices stuffed with rice, onion and the restaurant’s special blend of spices.  One of the telltale signs of fresh eggplant is its freshness, characterized by an absence of bitterness and the strange “metallic” taste sometimes found in poorly prepared eggplant.  Yasmine’s stuffed eggplant is perfectly prepared.  It’s neither too mushy nor too chewy.  The rice is moist and flavorful with a subtle spice blend that doesn’t dominate the flavor profile.

One of the more intriguing items on the menu is called the Mexiterranean Burger, perhaps the most unique version of the green chile cheeseburger in New Mexico.  The patty is made from a marinated ground beef charbroiled and stuffed in a pita then topped with onions, Provolone cheese, tomatoes, tzadziki sauce and Hatch green chile.  It’s not only a unique take on a burger, it’s a rather delicious one.  As with far too many green chile cheeseburgers, the chile isn’t especially piquant. 

Fortunately Yasmine’s condiment offerings include a hot sauce that emboldens the flavors of everything to which it is added.  The hot sauce is a Day-Glo colored orange sauce with a peppery piquancy reminiscent of fine cayenne.  Best of all, it’s not vinegary as some hot sauces tend to be.  This hot sauce is a huge hit on the burger, but even moreso on the accompanying French fries.  The fries are strictly out-of-the-bag, but douse them in the hot sauce and their flavor is improved exponentially.

The Chicken Shawarma, boneless chicken marinated in special spices, slowly roasted and thinly sliced is apportioned generously and served on a bed of fluffy rice with lettuce, tomatoes, and red onions on the side.  Ask for a side of sumac to add just a bit of tartness to what is surprisingly an under-seasoned entree.  There’s no disputing the quality of the boneless chicken, but a more liberal use of spices would improve its flavor profile. So will the aforementioned hot sauce. 

The original owners of Yasmine’s made the very best pistachio baklava in New Mexico.  It was one of my very favorite desserts and best reason for the restaurant.  Alas, pistachio baklava is no longer on the menu, but the baklava on the menu is stuffed with finely crushed walnuts.  The walnuts cut the cloying taste of honey to prevent a mad sugar rush, but they’re not quite as wonderful as the pistachios.  We found the layers of phyllo pastry somewhat chewy with little flakiness.

Yasmine’s Cafe offers several delicious choices for vegetarians and vegans.  Frankly, it offers something for just about every discerning diner.  It’s the type of restaurant in which peace talks could certainly be inspired.

Yasmine’s Cafe
1600 Central, S.E.
Albuquerque, New Mexico
(505) 242-1980
LATEST VISIT: 1 May 2013
# OF VISITS: 7
RATING: 17
COST: $$
BEST BET: Baba Ganouj, Walnut Baklava, Chicken Shawarma, Mexiterranean Burger, Stuffed Eggplant, Pita Bread

One of the most common responses given as to why people choose to retire in Santa Fe is “because it’s so different.” While it may be true that the “City Different” is different from where respondents came, some native New Mexicans like my buddy Mike Muller postulate that Santa Fe has become the “City Same.” He’s talking about the architectural standards and city ordinances whose uniformity threaten to make Santa Fe a model of adobe-hued homogeneity. Mike points out that Santa Fe’s boring “sameness” hasn’t quite caught up with Albuquerque which in comparison is the rebellious kid in oversized jeans with underwear exposed to Santa Fe’s straight-laced, Catholic uniform-attired school girl.

For evidence he points out two architectural anomalies which would not make it in Santa Fe. One is the United Blood Services building whose sanguine facade can be seen a mile away. The other is the bright yellow building on Wyoming which houses Cafe Istanbul, a Mediterranean Grocery Store and Deli. In truth, Cafe Istanbul isn’t quite as bright today as it was in 2001 when Nick and Del Akkad launched their specialty store and deli. New Mexico’s bright sun has dulled the bright yellow somewhat, but it’s still bright enough to get your attention…and there’s nothing similarly colored in the immediate area. It stands out!

Color not withstanding, at Cafe Istanbul, you’ll find 2,200 square feet of deliciousness. Some is in the form of hard-to-find Middle Eastern specialty foods showcased in Cafe Istanbul’s well-stocked shelves and some is in the form of traditional Mediterranean dishes. Before Cafe Istanbul, some of the specialty items were literally impossible to find in Albuquerque. Many of the comestible items are imported directly from the Cradle of Civilization: Lebanon, Jordan and other Middle Eastern countries.

You can pick up in bulk such specialty items as your favorite exotic Mediterranean cheeses, olives and even those briny pickles served with many Middle Eastern entrees. There are two freezers dedicated solely to various breads. You can also purchase by the pound, some of your favorite Middle Eastern entrees and appetizers: gyros meat, falafel, kababs, baba ganouj, tahini, taramasalata (carp roe which is sometimes referred to as Greek caviar), baklava and so much more. Do comparison pricing and you’ll find that Cafe Istanbul offers lower prices (and better variety, authenticity, experience, etc.) than the chains.

That variety includes the taste bud awakening spices that infuse Middle Eastern cuisine with its unique flavor and pungency: curry powder, cumin, coriander, green cardamom, tumeric and ground sumac (the non-poisonous member of the genus). One of the great benefits of shopping at Cafe Istanbul is that you don’t have to wait to get home to partake of Mediterranean fare. Smart shoppers plan a meal around their shopping. 

The name “Cafe Istanbul” seems a bit anomalous in that the restaurant owners are actually Palestinian, not Turkish.  If you consider, however,  Istanbul’s prominence on the spice routes of Marco Polo, the name actually makes great sense.  Even today Istanbul is renowned for spice markets replete with exotic and spices and seasonings which make Middle Eastern cuisine one of the most flavorful in the world.  Those spices are in use on many of Cafe Istanbul’s offerings.

In recent years Cafe Istanbul has expanded its dining area, making it commodious enough for the throngs of  hungry guests it attracts.  Perhaps indicative of its authenticity, many of the female diners (as well as the kitchen staff) don Hijabs, the veils which cover women’s hair in Muslim countries.  A mural on the west-facing wall in the dining area is of a caravan in which camels, the ship of the desert, ferry supplies across an arid expanse.

Arrive at Cafe Istanbul too early for lunch, however, and you might just find that some of the meat items aren’t quite ready. It’s worth the fifteen minute to half-hour wait for these tasty meat and lamb entrees to reach the height of their succulent, juicy peak. Besides, you can wait at the comfortable booths in the dining area while noshing on some of the cafe’s wonderful pre-prandial items. To quote perhaps the definitive blog on the subject of humus “Eat humus. Give chickpeas a chance.”

The humus at Cafe Istanbul is among the very best in the city. Humus, the Arab and Hebrew word for chickpeas, is made with tahini sauce, lemon juice and garlic. At Cafe Istanbul, ground sumac (which lends a slightly lemony flavor) is sprinkled liberally on top. Green olives, pickles and green tomatoes are strategically positioned for a deliciously, decorative touch. This humus plate is a thing of beauty–rich and redolent in flavor, just beckoning for pita bread.

Consider it folly if you will, but one of the best things to have with humus is baba ganouj (is there any better sounding food in the world?). At its elemental level, baba ganouj starts with roasted eggplant which is ground and mixed with various spices. You might never achieve consensus as to what spices go into baba ganoug. Options range from allspice and cinnamon to garlic and parsley. The only consensus is that, made right, it makes a delicious dip for warm pita bread and whatever else you might want to dip into it.

At Cafe Istanbul, the baba ganouj has a rich, creamy texture and is similarly spice-adorned to the humus. Don’t be repulsed by the greenish tomatoes. Use them to scoop up a hefty portion of humus or baba ganouj and you might just be asking for seconds on the tomatoes. You’ll certainly be asking for a double meat portion on your gyros. Cafe Istanbul’s rendition of this popular Greek sandwich is served with lettuce, tomatoes, onions and “special” sauce (tzatziki). The meat is succulent, juicy and tender, a delicious amalgam of beef and lamb shavings prepared on a vertical spit. These may be the most juicy gyros you’ll find in the Duke City.

The Saudi Arabian sandwich alternative to the Greek gyro is shawerma, marinated beef and lamb seasoned with various spices (sumac is most prominent) tucked into warm pita bread. Wow! Cafe Istanbul’s version of shawerma is unbelievably good. Tender tendrils of meat, onions, chopped tomatoes and spices on a soft, moist pita are in perfect meat to vegetable to bread ratio.  There is also a  nice textural and temperature contrast of warm bread against cool veggies and hot, seasoned meat that make each bite flavorful and adventurous.

Savvy diners will forgo the sandwich options and opt instead for gyros, kabob or shawerma platters.  The platters include rice, humus, pickles, pita bread and tabbooleh, a refreshing salad made with parsley, mint, tomatoes, green onions and various spices. One of the reasons this is a good option is because you can make your own sandwich on the pita provided and still have several wonderful sides.  Better still, order extra pita so you can scoop up those sumptuous sides.  The warm pita at Cafe Istanbul is wonderful!

Traditionally, kebabs are a traditional Turkish dish made from meat roasted vertically on a spit. Kebabs are  closely related to gyros from Greece and other traditional spit-roasted meats from around the Mediterranean and Middle East.  Sometimes the interpretation can be a bit liberal.  The kebabs at Cafe Istanbul barely resemble gyros meat at all.  Instead, the amalgam of beef and lamb is cubed into bite-sized pieces and seasoned liberally with sumac.  The kebab platter (pictured below) is quite good.

To bring full authenticity to your dining experience at Cafe Istanbul, you’ll want to enjoy a cup (or three) of Turkish coffee, an unusually strong sweetened coffee made with unfiltered coffee grounds.  Turkish coffee (like Vietnamese coffee) is an acquired taste even for coffee aficionados.  It’s served in small cups of perhaps three ounces of liquid.  Drink too much of it and you just might start pinging off the walls. 

Finish your meal with a dessert of Baklava, the most famous of Lebanese pastries, although they are also popular in other Middle East countries and more closely associated with Greece. This sweet pastry is made using numerous sheets of phyllo dough with butter brushed between each layer. My favorite of Cafe Istanbul’s baklava is layered with pistachios which are widely available throughout Turkey.  the ground pistachios help cut the cloying combination of honey and sugar which top baklava.

Everything at Cafe Istanbul is made fresh daily and no preservatives are used. Everything is also delicious and inexpensive. Two can eat very well for about thirty dollars.

Cafe Istanbul
1415 Wyoming, N.E.
Albuquerque, New Mexico
(505) 294-9900

LATEST VISIT: 03 January 2012
# OF VISITS: 3
RATING: 21
COST: $
BEST BET: Shawerma, Gyros, Baba Ganouj, Humus