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Billy Goat Tavern – Chicago, Illinois

Directly below Michigan Avenue on the Magnificent Mile is the world-famous Billy Goat Tavern

The genesis of the idiomatic expression “got your goat” which means “to greatly annoy someone” is in dispute with sources attributing it to both the United States and England.  The American version has it that horse trainers would put a goat in a racing horse’s stall to keep it calm.  When bettors wanted a horse to race badly, they took it away (ergo “got someone’s goat”) and the horse would become agitated and run badly.  No evidence exists to support this legend.  According to the English version, keeping a goat in the barn has a calming effect on cows, thereby motivating them to produce more milk.  When rapscallions wanted to upset competing cattle ranchers, they would abscond with their goat rendering their cows less to non-productive.

In Chicago, the phrase “got your goat” has meant something entirely different since 1945, the very last time the Chicago Cubs played in the World Series.  That’s more than 67 days of ineptitude and frustration.  That’s the power of the “billy goat curse” and it all happened because Cubs owner P.K. Wrigley prevented local Greek restaurateur William “Billy Goat” Sianis and his pet goat Murphy from going through the turnstiles to watch game four of the Series.  Legend has it that William cursed the Cubs with the prophetic statement “The Cubs ain’t gonna win no more.  The Cubs will never win a World Series so long as the goat is not allowed in Wrigley Field.”  Not only did the Cubs go on to lose game four and the subsequent games in the Series, they haven’t experienced success since.

Established in 1934

You might think that such an outcry of anger and disapproval over William and his restaurant would have ensued that William would have been forced out of business, but since that day of infamy, most rancor seems to be directed at the Cubs organization.  William’s Billy Goat Tavern has not only been a Chicago institution since 1934, it’s earned worldwide fame…and it’s done so despite serving food which, at best, be described as mediocre.  The Billy Goat Tavern is not a dining destination.  It’s not where any self-respecting gastronome would ever go expecting a great gourmet meal.  We visit because of the experience.

We visit to experience for ourselves, the famous Saturday Night Live skit (back when SNL was funny) executed so uproariously funny by the “Not Ready for Prime Time Players”   John Belushi, Dan Aykroyd, Bill Murray and Loraine Newman.  The hilarious skit was based on the Billy Goat Tavern, a hang-out for many of the show’s writers.  It satirized the experience of dining at the restaurant where it doesn’t matter what you order, the colorful waitstaff will call out “cheezborger; no fries, cheeps; no Pepsi, Coke.”

The bar and dining room area at the Billy Goat Tavern

Today, the thickly accented Greek wait staff continues to entertain guests just as William Sianis did all those years:  “Try the double cheese!  It’s the best!  No fries, cheeps!”  It’s part of the restaurant’s charm.  It’s why we return.  This type of wait schtick just doesn’t get old.  The entertaining wait staff is just one of the things we love about the Billy Goat Tavern.  We love that the restaurant isn’t at street level, but directly below Michigan Avenue on the Magnificent Mile.  We love the homey hang-out feel of the joint where regulars belly up to the bar and grin with amusement as tourists snap photo after photo of their home away from home.

Cheeseburgers are the Billy Goat Tavern’s featured fare, some would say the only thing to eat.  While the menu may list other items, including a few sandwiches, order something other than a cheezborger and you’ll incur the ire of the counterman who will admonish you: “Cheezborger!  Double cheez!  That’s the best!”  I won’t advise ordering two double cheez.  They just aren’t very good.  Not only are the beef patties waifishly thin, they’re desiccated, maybe the driest burgers I’ve ever had.  Worse, they’re served on a very dry Kaiser roll.  You add your own pickles, onions, mustard and ketchup at a condiment bar.  Trust me, you’ll need a lot of ingredients to make the burger palatable.  The cheeps, made by Vitner’s, a Chicago staple, are very good.

Two double cheezborgers with cheeps, no fries; Coke, no Pepsi

Visitors to the Billy Goat Tavern are fully cognizant that they’re not going to be treated to a gourmet meal, but we still visit in droves. There’s a lot to be said about a restaurant with so much personality it’s become legendary.

Billy Goat Tavern
430 N. Michigan Ave at Lower Level
Chicago, Illinois
(312) 733-9132
Web Site
LATEST VISIT: 6 September 2012
# OF VISITS: 3
RATING: 14
COST: $
BEST BET: Cheeps, Coke

Billy Goat Tavern on Urbanspoon

Al’s #1 Beef – Chicago, Illinois

Al’s Beef, home of some of Chicago’s most popular Italian beef sandwiches and more

Assume the position!  It’s been called the “Chicago Lean,” the “Italian Stance” and simply “The Stance.”   It’s  the time-tested, traditional art and science of eating Italian beef sandwiches, a Chicago specialty.  Trust me, it’s not the same as eating an ordinary sandwich.  If you don’t follow the process, you’re bound to spill shards of beef, bits of giardiniera and drippings of spice-laden beef gravy onto your clothing.  Italian beef sandwiches are as messy as they are delicious. 

Some Italian beef sandwich shops don’t even offer seating.  Instead, they provide high, thin counters with or without stools where you’ll park yourself and proceed to assume the position.  I’ll let the professionals take over from here.  Courtesy of Italianbeef.com:

(1)  Put your sandwich on the counter and stand in front of it, with your chest about 12 inches from the edge of the counter
(2)  Lean forward so your chest is at a 45-degree angle to the counter (Note: if you’€™re wearing a tie, make sure it’s tucked inside your shirt)
(3)  Pick up your sandwich, resting your elbows on the counter
(4)  Angle the sandwich at a 45-degree angle to the counter, with the top end towards your mouth. (Imagine making a triangle: the counter is the bottom, your head and chest are one side, the sandwich is another)
(5) Eat and enjoy. For best results, keep the sandwich wrapped in the wax paper it most likely came in, unwrapping it as you go.

The Italian Stance: the only way to eat an Italian beef sandwich

There is no one single version of truth as to who invented the Italian beef sandwich.  One of the claimants to being its progenitor is Al’s #1 Beef which first opened in 1938.  According to the founding family, the Italian beef sandwich was born out of necessity.  Needing to stretch a small amount of food a long way for Italian weddings, meat was sliced as thinly as possible and inserted between bread with giardiniera.  Chicago Sun-Times dining critic Pat Bruno asserts that the Italian beef sandwich is the scion of the French Dip sandwich, introduced in Los Angeles in 1918.

Whether or not Al’s #1 Beef is the originator of the Italian beef sandwich, one thing’s for certain.  It’s probably the most famous restaurant in the Windy City to serve Italian beef sandwiches.  Al’s #1 Beef has also earned more accolades than any competitor.  In nationally televised one-on-one competition (Travel Channel’s “Food Wars” versus the Food Network’s “Food Feuds.“) against Mr. Beef, Al’s was selected as the best Italian beef sandwich in the city.  Moreover, Al’s has been featured as Esquire magazine’s picks for “best sandwich in America.”  In 2012, Al’s Italian beef sandwich was named the Midwest’s Best Sandwich according to the Travel Channel’s show, Best Sandwich in America.

Italian beef-sausage combo

Nationwide networks and publications, however, don’t speak for all Chicagoans.  If you think Chicago’s politics are a contentious topic, try debating which restaurant serves up the city’s best Italian Beef Sandwich.  Opinions don’t necessarily vary that widely as there are just a handful of Italian beef restaurants which have truly distinguished themselves over the years. It’s in the intensity of the debate with which you might be surprised. Each of the anointed restaurants has its vocal supporters and each has its detractors and some in either party won’t hesitate to explain (with fisticuffs if necessary) why their choice is the best and yours is not.

Perhaps in an attempt to achieve a greater consensus, Al’s #1 Beef has become the most ubiquitous Italian beef presence in the Chicago area and has started to expand nationwide.  In addition to thirteen Chicago area restaurants, current franchise locations can be found in Athens, Georgia; Scottsdale, Arizona; and soon in Las Vegas, Nevada and San Jose, California.  My most recent visit to Al’s was at the East Jackson Street location a few blocks from Chicago’s Magnificent Mile where, in addition to the long, thin counters, you can actually find seating.  Take a seat and eat, if you dare!

Hand-cut fries with blue cheese crumbles

Now for Gil’s verdict.  First, in the interest of full disclosure, my very favorite Italian beef sandwich in the universe is at Johnnie’s Beef.  None of the dozen or so other proprietors of Italian beef I’ve sampled in the Chicago area come close.  Al’s #1 Beef isn’t in the top five.  Here’s why.  I always ask for a “wet” sandwich, meaning it’s momentarily baptized in a spicy au jus style gravy.  No matter how substantial the bread, the moistness almost immediately begins to disintegrate the bread.  The bread used at Al’s is the wimpiest I’ve seen, soon resembling shards of bread swimming in a soup.  Al’s uses a much more assertive spice mix to create its au jus than other Italian beef restaurants.  It’s not my favorite.  Neither is the giardiniera which is a bit overwhelmed by a spicy red pepper kick.  The giardiniera tends to be mushy. 

My friend Bill Resnik, who had never experienced an Italian beef sandwich in Chicago, agreed with me that the Italian beef in Albuquerque’s own Pizza 9 is actually better than the Italian beef at Al’s #1.  That’s as much a validation of Pizza 9 as it is an indictment of Al’s.  If there is one saving grace about Al’s, it’s the hand-cut fries if you order them with blue cheese crumbles.

Al’s Beef
28 East Jackson Boulevard
Chicago, Illinois
(312) 461-9292
Web Site
LATEST VISIT: 6 September 2012
# of VISITS: 2
RATING: 18
COST: $
BEST BET: Italian Beef-Sausage Combo, Fries with Blue Cheese Crumbles

Al's #1 Italian Beef on Urbanspoon