“If small businesses are the backbone of American commerce, then the good old-fashioned lemonade stand is the spinal cord.” That sagacious metaphor (for which I unfortunately cannot take credit) is an apt description for how El Paragua transcended its humble beginnings to become one of the culinary crown jewels of Northern New Mexico.
In 1958, the Atencio brothers, two precocious entrepreneurs growing up in the enchanting Española valley did the old-fashioned lemonade stand one better. They built a stand in which they sold their mother’s tacos and tamales. The stand’s overhanging roof provided respite from the rain, hence the name “El Paragua” or “the umbrella.” By 1965, the Atencio boys’ business was booming and the family home was transformed into a sit-down restaurant in which hungry patrons could partake of all of Mama Atencio’s culinary magic.
Today El Paragua is a dining destination that has achieved worldwide acclaim. Dr. N Scott Momaday, the UNM educated (Bachelor’s degree) Pulitzer Prize winner wrote a glowing review for the New York Times. The restaurant’s walls are papered with reviews from such industry standard publications as Gourmet, Bon Appetit and Sunset magazine as well as numerous newspapers.
El Paragua’s decor combines the varying influences of the traditional Hispanic culture unique to northern New Mexico, but you might also swear you’re dining in old Mexico. That means an eclectic mix of eye-catching brickerbrack strewn throughout the capacious restaurant’s several dining rooms. In one of those dining rooms, the bases of the cloth covered tables were constructed of old treadle-type Singer sewing machines. The ceilings were fashioned of heavy wooden beams and the dark, alluring ambience is of stone and wood. The floors are red-tiled while multi-hued, hand-painted Saltillo tile trimmings accentuate the walls on which are also hung vintage family photographs and Catholic iconography.
Despite the aforementioned trappings, once your eyes have adjusted to the dimly lit front room, they will probably train instantly on the stately, multi-trunked cottonwood that grows through the restaurant’s roof. That imposing tree extends upward for fifty feet or more–still providing an umbrella of shade for El Parasol, the taco stand next door.
You won’t be seated long before a basket of complementary low-salt chips (thin and crisp) and a bowl of fiery, Christmassy (red and green) jalapeno-based salsa is brought to your table. The salsa is replenished faithfully and despite more than a hint of cilantro, is quite good. Expect to consume two or three bowls before your entrees are served.
The menu is unlike that of other New Mexican restaurants. It’s more than an eclectic mix of American, Mexican and New Mexican items and includes a surprising array of mariscos (Mexican seafood) and steak. The steak selections includes Churrasco Argentino, cooked in a green herb salsa chimichurri and served for two on a hot brazier. Steaks and fish (try the pan-fried breaded trout almondine) are grilled over a mesquite-wood fire. For less meaty fare, the lime-basted chicken with apple sauce is a delicious option.
The menu’s selection of New Mexican food is incomparable. Authentic New Mexican treasures (such as menudo) and variations (such as chorizo enchiladas) on those treasures abound. The best way to sample the restaurant’s savory New Mexican fare is by ordering a combination plate which includes a tamale, enchilada, taco, carne adovada, refried beans and rice. The shredded beef taco is the same one you’d get next door at El Parasol. Everything on the combination plate save for the carne adovada (too much cilantro) is absolutely delicious.
It’s easy to see why the carnitas are a popular favorite. The chunks of pork marinated with grilled onions and tomatoes are delicious bite-sized pieces of some of the very best carnitas you’ll find in New Mexico.
The complementary sopaipillas are light, flaky and huge, maybe the largest sopaipillas we’ve seen. Despite their prolific size, they form perfect, accommodating pockets for honey or the restaurant’s house-made apricot preserves.
If you’re a caloric overachiever and you’ve got the room for it, don’t dare pass up two New Mexican dessert comfort foods–natillas, an egg-based custard and capirotada, New Mexican bread pudding. I don’t know of any other restaurant menus in New Mexico that feature capirotada and though it’s not nearly as wonderful as the one my mom makes, it’s quite good for a restaurant offering.
El Paragua is only 24 miles north of Santa Fe, just off the Taos Highway on State Road 76. It’s the type of restaurant you wouldn’t mind driving 100 miles for.
El Paragua
603 Santa Cruz
Española, NM
753-3211
LATEST VISIT: 17 May 2006
# OF VISITS: 3
RATING: 21
COST: $$
BEST BET: Combination Platter, Natillas, Chips & Salsa
I have had the best service in El Paragua for many years. I go to the bar and the service is always awesome! Unfortunately, the management is the problem. Tonight, I went in for dinner selected the $$36 filet. It was served as 3 different piece of meat held together by a piece of bacon, none of which were one complete piece of meat. Additionally, only one of the pieces of meat were med-rare as ordered.
Then the owner appeared and began to question me as to why I sent my meal back. I told him that I had never been served a Filet in 3 difference pieces and that if I was paying for a $36/meal that I expect a $36 filet. Seriously!!
I received my plate of food with a nice looking fliet, which was completely raw. Honestly, I was at the point where I realized that the owner was just messing with me. Everyone in the bar told me to walk out and not pay my bill, but I was not going to let the manager get the best of me. I gave my waitress $60 and told her that unfortunately, I would never be back.
This concludes a long line of abuse by the manager on me. I am done and unfortunately the current management of this restaurant has moved to people who don’t care how much they rip off and abuse the customer. They will find my under-cooked $36 filet in the highway in front of the restaurant where I threw it when leaving the restaurant….
Good call on not doing the dine and ditch, Dawn. That comes out of your server’s wages, not the restaurant’s overhead.
I would’ve taken the filet home and prepared it myself, but I get you were going for a message. Would’ve been great if you knew which was the manager’s car and left it on his windshield…:-)
Hey Gil,
We went to the restaurant while on vacation a number years ago and finally got back for dinner last weekend. Really my favorite New Mexican restaurant that I’ve eaten so far. From the margarita, chips and salsa to the enchiladas de carne, everything was satisfyingly flavorful. Looking forward to going back. BTW, the nearby Inn at the Delta is an excellent place to stay for a great weekend getaway. Lovely rooms and dog friendly.
I know of two places in NM that serve capirotada: El Paragua and Cecilia’s Cafe in ABQ. Both are fantastic. Cecilia Baca’s version is more savory that that at El Paragua. But Cecilia’s is only available during Lent (and sometimes Advent). I have already reviewed Cecilia’s, and will get to reviewing El Paragua this week.
El Paragua has a dynamite version of menudo rojo. Quite possibly the best I have had. I would drive an hour-and-a-half for this. Anytime.
My wife and I had a great lunch at El Paragua. It is an interesting old rock building with a charming interior —and has great service. As Gil says, the complimentary salsa is very good. My wife had a Mexican Omelet which she loved: eggs, chorizo, cheese and green chile. In addition, she especially liked the rice which accompanied the omelet, calling it the best rice (other than, perhaps, the cilantro rice at Pasqual’s in Santa Fe) she has had in New Mexico. My enchiladas were quite good. I had them Christmas—both the red and green chile were flavorful and somewhat piquant, though short of brow-sweat piquant. The sopaipillas were excellent; in addition to the usual honey, a side of pineapple infused applesauce was brought to the table which was wonderful with the sopaipillas. The only downside was that we thought everything was a buck or three more expensive than other NM food reastaurants. Plus, they charged $1.50 for blue corn (enchiladas) and $1.90 for a side of red chile. Still … we will return.