Although we pride ourselves on keeping a pulse on the local dining scene, it took a nationally syndicated Food Network cable program called Food Finds to introduce us in 2003 to the Golden Crown Panaderia, an Albuquerque fixture for nearly three decades. In an episode entitled Viewer’s Choice, host Sandra Pinckney visited several small-town shops, mom-and-pop stores and local vendors that pride themselves in creating specialty foods the old-fashioned way.
Old-fashioned is an appropriate term for the Golden Crown Panaderia which crafts its magnum opuses on equipment that is ancient by modern automation standards. Situated in a ramshackle old building just outside Old Town, it’s far enough off the beaten path as to be relatively inconspicuous.
Proprietor Pratt Morales and his son Chris also have an old-fashioned father and son relationship in the tradition of Andy and Opie. On Food Finds, Pratt recounted having helped deliver his son, calling it the beginning of a life-long love affair. Pratt also demonstrated his unique craft–bread sculpting. He can literally prepare bread in any shape and form as chronicled in a photo album replete with pictures of the artistic bread creations. Although the Food Network made larger than life celebrities out of father and son, they are both as friendly and accommodating as possible.
I probably wouldn’t be writing about Golden Crown, however, if the end product wasn’t good. Make that outstanding! Make that maybe “the best bakery in Albuquerque” outstanding!
The panaderia’s crown jewel (no pun intended) is the original New Mexico green chile bread on which is sculpted a Santa Fe style coyote baying at the moon. Aside from green chile, this staff of life is fashioned with onions, fresh tomatoes, Parmesan cheese and cilantro. The bread is baked slowly to seal in the flavor and aroma of all the fresh ingredients. Toast it with butter and (if you can get it) New Mexican chokecherry jelly and you’ve got a mouth-watering breakfast.
All artisan breads are baked fresh daily and are out of the oven at regular intervals between 10:30AM and 2PM. There may be no more pleasing bouquet in the Duke City than the aroma of fresh bread baking in one of the Golden Crown’s ovens: honey whole wheat, cinnamon raisin honey whole wheat, cinnamon pecan honey whole wheat, Appaloosa bread (a dark and light swirled rye), black rye and even seven-grain bread. They’re all great!
The Appaloosa bread (pictured below) is edible artwork. Swirling patterns of visually appealing dark brown pumpernickel ornament the bread like a beautiful Rorschach ink blot. This is a full-bodied bread, the type of which makes outstanding delicatessen style sandwiches thickly smeared with a fine mustard or with sauerkraut piled on generously. It’s also excellent toasted which enhances the vibrancy and flavors of the bread.
Also beyond reproach are the biscochitos, New Mexico’s official state cookie which is mildly sweet with a light taste of anise and a hint of cinnamon. These orb-shaped treats are melt-in-your-mouth delicious! The minute you step into the bakery, a complementary biscochito is handed to children of all ages, a gift from the bakery gods.
You might think it heretical, but the Moraleses also feature a chocolate biscochito made from a strong, slightly bitter dark chocolate and sprinkled liberally with anise. If you like your chocolate dark, you certainly won’t care that New Mexico’s official state cookie has been altered such. A more recent addition to the biscochito family is a unique cappuccino biscochito. It’s like dunking a biscochito into strong coffee.
The menu purports to serve the “creamiest latte in town,” its creaminess “because we get the freshest milk in town–straight from the cow.” Espresso, latte and mocha coffee drinks are all available if indeed you wish to dunk your biscochito into excellent coffee. The coffee-flavored milk shake also has the flavor of strong coffee (courtesy of two shots of espresso) without the cloying flavor of coffee that’s been over-sweetened. It’s an adult coffee shake and it’s served cold thanks to nearly a full pound of vanilla ice cream out of the freezer. This is my very favorite shake in Albuquerque and the very best coffee-flavored shake I’ve ever had anywhere.
How good are the Golden Crown’s biscochitos? The October, 2005 edition of Gourmet magazine indicated the Golden Crown’s handmade version of biscochitos “make a delightful holiday accompaniment to red or white wine.” Wine, by the way, is how biscochitos were originally served in Spain. With or without wine, biscochitos are an absolute treat in which New Mexicans delight. The Golden Crown’s biscochitos were also celebrated in the July-August edition of National Geographic Traveler magazine. An article entitled “five American desserts worth the trip” describes them as “fragrant, infused with anise, this flaky shortbread coated with cinnamon.” A more succinct way to describe them is absolutely wonderful!
Another pastry favorite are the flautas (flutes). No, not the corn tortillas rolled around a filling of shredded chicken or beef then fried until crisp. These flautas are filled with glorious lemon or apricot filling and dusted with white powdered sugar. Not too sweet and not too tart, they are absolutely delicious. The Golden Crown’s empanadas are nonpareil, absolutely the very best in New Mexico–whether pumpkin, sweet potato, apple, blueberry, strawberry, apricot, lemon or raspberry. The crust is reminiscent of the biscochitos in both texture and flavor.
The Morales family goal is to serve products which are delicious, nutritious and beautiful. In keeping with that lofty aspiration, Pratt has figured out how to bake breads that are free of trans-fats, oils and fat without losing absolutely nothing taste-wise.
By popular demand, the Golden Crown Panaderia also serves bakery-style pizza that starts with your choice of three innovative crusts: blue corn dough, peasant dough or the famous New Mexico green chile dough. Doesn’t it stand to reason that no one knows bread (or pizza) crust as well as a baker? While Albuquerque The Magazine‘s staff didn’t give this pizza enough love to place it among their top five pizzas in their annual Food & Wine issue for 2010, it was rated the best pizza along Route 66 by a Roadfood crew rating the “best of the best” from among the dozens of restaurants they sampled in a 5,250-mile excursion along the route. The pizza which captured the Roadfood crew’s affection was a green chile and roasted chicken pizza on a blue corn crust. Golden Crown’s pizza is among my top three in Albuquerque and top five in New Mexico.
This hand-tossed, thin-crust pizza features a housemade pizza sauce, mozzarella and your choice of ingredients in sizes ranging from personal to extra large (30% larger than the regular large). Gourmet toppings include anchovies, oven roasted chicken, artichoke and more.Each pizza is baked to order in about fifteen minutes baking time per pizza. Each pizza comes with a biscochito, an amuse bouche you don’t often see. The personal-sized combination pizza (tasty pepperoni, hearty Italian sausage, black olives, crisp bell peppers, red onions and mozzarella) is my favorite, an artisan-style pie that isn’t nearly as circular as what you might find at a chain, nor is the crusty rim of equal thickness throughout the circumference of the pie. Not that it matters much because every morsel of the pie is an adventure in deliciousness.
The ingredients are of the highest quality and are absolutely terrific, but it’s the crust that will absolutely blow you away. If you love your pizza crust imbued with the memory-inducing, olfactory arousing aroma of fresh bread just out of the oven, this is the pizza for you. You won’t be leaving behind any of the crust from around the rim, nor will you be sharing it with the annoying pigeons scavenging around the outdoor seating areas waiting for a hand-out. When it comes to olfactory arousing, the green chile crust is absolutely for you with just enough piquancy to get your attention, but moreover, the bouquet of roasted green chile. The green chile crust includes some 18 ingredients while more than 20 ingredients go into both the blue corn and peasant crusts.
The housemade sauce is slathered on thickly and is quite good, a perfectly seasoned tomato sauce that complements other ingredients well. The Italian sausage is not that benign sausage which tastes like so much hamburger meat; it’s sausage with a bit of attitude. The pepperoni is nicely spiced; several thinly-sliced orbs generously applied throughout the pie. The black olives and green peppers are fresh and delicious and the mozzarella is creamy and chewy.
A sandwich board features six sandwiches built on the panaderia’s fresh-baked bread and uses only high quality meats, cheeses and fresh vegetables. Your sandwich can be built on sliced bread (including the fabled green chile bread) or sub sandwich bread.
in the November, 2010 edition of New Mexico Magazine I was asked to write an article showcasing the use of turkey for breakfast, lunch and dinner in three Albuquerque restaurants. My featured lunch selection was Golden Crown’s Turkey & Swiss sandwich (served with mayonnaise, Italian dressing, deli mustard, onions, tomatoes, lettuce and a kosher pickle). It is an outstanding sandwich–and thankfully NOT named the “Albuquerque Turkey” as so many turkey sandwiches (particularly those offered by chains) seem to be. Crafted on the Panaderia’s fabulous bread and adorned with vegetables grown on the premises on a hydroponic (a method of growing plants in water using mineral nutrient solutions with no soil) garden, the sandwich is accompanied by a biscochito and chips.
I also had the opportunity to introduce the world to Golden Crown on an article called “America’s Best Food Regions” published on the May, 2011 edition of Frommer’s Budget Travel Magazine. Along with bloggers from other storied American food regions, I was given 500 words to explain why New Mexico’s “Chile Country” reigns supreme over other culinary regions. Naturally the Golden Crown was one of six purveyors of America’s most incendiary regional cuisine I wrote about.
It’s no surprise this humble bakery was also featured in the Unique Boutique section of the November, 2005 edition of New Mexico Magazine. In May, 2007, the magazine published a lengthier article profiling Pratt and his passion for baking. It’s no longer a surprise when the Golden Crown Panaderia receives national accolades….such as a designation as the “best place for a book stop” from Southwest Airlines’ Spirit magazine. The magazine extolled the green chile bread and urged readers to “buy a loaf and snack away during an extended session.”
The Golden Crown Panaderia leaves no stone unturned in providing the highest possible in quality products and produce. In 2010, the Morales family began cultivating its own herbs and vegetables for use on its salads, sandwiches and pizzas. In a temperature controlled indoor environment, they grow several varieties of lettuce as well as fresh basil which resonates with flavor on pizza. The garden is somewhat of an anomaly in that so much of the equipment throughout the bakery is an anachronism, veritable antiques which function under the master bakers to create culinary masterpieces.
Before the advent of propane-powered chile roasters, New Mexicans either roasted chile themselves or they took it to their favorite baker. With advance arrangements, the Moraleses will still provide this service for loyal customers. Under the skillful hands of the Duke City’s very best bakers, the chile is roasted far more evenly than it is on a gigantic rotating drum–and without the abuse to which the chile is subjected in the tumbling process.
At 73 years young (as of this writing on May 31st, 2011), Pratt Morales still has the energy of a man half his age. He bikes distances that would tire out people generations younger if they drove those distances. His youthful exuberance and energy are resultant from having a passion for what he does. He loves being a baker so much that he often wakes up at three in the morning and walks to work so he can get started on his next sculpting project or bread innovation. We should all love our jobs as much as he does.
The Golden Crown Panaderia is a rarity–a bakery-slash-restaurant that does both well. Pratt and Chris Morales have made this panaderia an Albuquerque institution and in the process, have become part of the fabric of the Duke City’s unique cuisine culture themselves.
Golden Crown Panaderia
1103 Mountain Road, N.W.
LATEST VISIT: 15 July 2011
# OF VISITS: 11
BEST BET: Green Chile Bread, Tres Leche Cake, Biscochitos (Traditional, Chocolate and Cappuccino), Specialty Pizza, Turkey & Swiss Sandwich