{"id":11104,"date":"2011-04-10T21:10:02","date_gmt":"2011-04-11T03:10:02","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=11104"},"modified":"2026-04-05T20:39:30","modified_gmt":"2026-04-06T02:39:30","slug":"atrisco-cafe-bar-santa-fe-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=11104","title":{"rendered":"Atrisco Cafe & Bar – Santa Fe, New Mexico"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
\"\"
The Atrisco Cafe & Bar in Santa Fe<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

From the snow-capped mountains to the coral shores
\nYou’re the only one my heart adores
\nYou’ve only got three competitors
\nTacos, enchiladas and beans<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

From the Mississippi to the Amazon
\nThere’s not much we don’t agree upon
\nWish we could get together on
\nTacos, enchiladas and beans<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

Love ’em, dozens of ’em
\nI consume them by the score
\nAnd when I’m through, what do I do
\nI stamp and holler for more<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

You can have the fourth position on my list
\nMust admit your kisses would be missed
\nBut how in the world could I exist
\nWithout tacos, enchiladas and beans<\/em><\/span>
\nDoris Day<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
Huge flavors belie the relatively cramped quarters<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In the dark ages when I was growing up in the high mountain community of Pe\u00f1asco, the world wasn’t nearly as connected as it is today.\u00a0 My siblings and I thought we were deprived by being subjected to\u00a0 such unsophisticated foods as tacos, enchiladas and beans. We didn’t know any better. \u00a0 The three television stations (KOB, KOAT and KGGM) which piped\u00a0 seventeen hours\u00a0 of programming per day (7AM through 12AM) through our rooftop antenna into the\u00a0 static-prone black-and-white television in our den depicted only families who ate such elegant food as pot roast, fried chicken and mashed potatoes.\u00a0\u00a0 When they weren’t eating these formal meals at the dining room table, television families were eating burgers from Vip’s Big Boy<\/a> or A&W<\/a>.\u00a0 While Pe\u00f1asco kids were taking green chile on tortilla sandwiches to school in brown paper bags, the kids on television toted Wonder bread sandwiches in their Archies or Batman lunchboxes. <\/span><\/p>\n

My mom often sang a little ditty extolling the virtues of tacos, enchiladas and beans.\u00a0 We assumed it was a song she made up in response to our whining about not having Wonder bread sandwiches like those kids on television.\u00a0 She finally told me her little ditty was actually a song recorded by legendary actress and singer Doris Day way back in 1944 when dinosaurs roamed the Earth. \u00a0 If rich, sophisticated actresses thought tacos, enchiladas and beans were pretty cool, my brothers, sisters and I finally decided we were eating pretty well, too.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
Tres Amigos: Guacamole, Salsa, and Chips<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The notion that the descendants of the Conquistadors who settled New Mexico had any sort of exclusivity in the preparation and appreciation for tacos, enchiladas and beans is admittedly pretty silly and naive.\u00a0 For generations, some of the very best New Mexican food throughout the Land of Enchantment has been served by families whose descendants fished the azure waters of the Aegean Sea and dined on a diet rich in olive oil, yogurt, feta cheese, lamb, herbs and vegetables.\u00a0 Greek restaurateurs have held such a prominent place in New Mexico’s culinary culture that they were honored in the 2006 edition of the New Mexico Blue Book<\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\n

In February, 2011, my friend Cheryl Jamison<\/a>, the four-time James Beard award-winning author, delivered a scintillating presentation on some of New Mexico’s oldest and most iconic family-owned culinary treasures to a standing-room only crowd at the New Mexico History Museum Auditorium. Her lecture corroborated that Greek immigrants\u00a0 expanded their own culinary traditions by incorporating <\/span>the foods of their adopted homeland<\/span> into their restaurants.\u00a0 She outlined a number of restaurants owned by Greeks which prepare New Mexican food as delicious as it can be made\u00a0 and in the time-honored, traditional ways of which my own abuelitas would approve.
\n<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
Two house-made biscuits<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The intersection of Central Avenue and Atrisco Drive in Albuquerque was the genesis for one Greek family’s culinary journey, one which began in the 1940s.\u00a0 That’s where then recently widowed Sophia Mariol opened the Central Cafe to support her four children, all of whom developed a love of chile as prepared in the Atrisco neighborhood and who would go on to launch their own restaurants in Santa Fe.\u00a0 Son Jim Mariol founded Tia Sophia’s, a veritable institution in the historic Santa Fe Plaza area and claimant to having invented the breakfast burrito. \u00a0 Son Richard\u00a0 established the Horseman’s Cafe which proffers some of the most potent and piquant chile in New Mexico. Daughter Georgia Mariol launched Tomasita’s,<\/a> another critically acclaimed and beloved Santa Fe fixture.\u00a0 Other family restaurants which have come and gone include the Mayflower Cafe, Richard’s Horseman’s Haven and Diego’s.<\/span><\/p>\n

With the 2009 launch of the Atrisco Cafe and Bar, George Gundrey, a third-generation restaurateur proudly traces his restaurant’s lineage to the Atrisco neighborhood and his grandmother Sophia who operated the Central Cafe into the 1970s.\u00a0 George is Georgia’s son, but his pedigree goes beyond working in a family restaurant.\u00a0 As former director of the world-famous Santa Fe Farmers Market, he cultivated a wide network of local sources who\u00a0 today provide the organic produce and meats used in his restaurant.\u00a0 Quick to credit simple recipes, quality ingredients and friendly services as the hallmark of his family’s restaurants, Gundrey is a peripatetic presence at the Atrisco Cafe.\u00a0 With ambassadorial aplomb, he frequently checks up on his guests to ensure they are enjoying their dining experience.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
Roast Leg of Lamb Burrito: Locally grown leg of lamb from Talus Wind Ranch, roasted to perfection and thinly sliced; served with red and green chile<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Atrisco Cafe & Bar is located on the south side of the DeVargas Center in the space previously occupied by Diego’s.\u00a0 Its exterior facade is neo-Southwestern with a terracotta stucco storefront and pink stag on the right flank of equally pink signage.\u00a0 Taos blue vigas provide a uniquely New Mexican pergola over the bar.\u00a0 Both booth and table seating are available in the restaurant which is wide, but not very deep.\u00a0 Seating is in fairly close proximity to neighboring tables.\u00a0 From the perspective that you get to see what others are ordering, that’s a big positive.<\/span><\/p>\n

The lunch and dinner menu is replete with Northern New Mexico favorites…and not just enchiladas, tacos and beans.\u00a0 House specials include Central Cafe Meat Loaf “Albuquerque style” featuring New Mexico raised beef, jalape\u00f1o mashed potatoes and the vegetable of the day.\u00a0 Then there’s Yia Yia (a Greek term for grandmother) Sophia’s Greek Salad, one of the few menu items showcasing Greek food.\u00a0 Burgers, salads and a few items sans chile are also available as is an enviable dessert menu that includes banana cream pie and natillas. Breakfast is served Saturday and Sunday from 8AM through 1PM.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
Green Chile Cheeseburger with French Fries<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A taste bud awakening way to start your meal as you contemplate the rest of the menu is with Tres Amigos<\/em>, the tasty triumvirate of guacamole, salsa and chips.\u00a0 The guacamole is unctuous–avocados ripened to a buttery perfection, fresh onions and tomatoes, a bit of garlic and salt.\u00a0 The salsa melds rich, red tomatoes, finely chopped onions, and fiery jalape\u00f1os in competition for the rapt attention of your taste buds.\u00a0 The salsa is of medium piquancy, just\u00a0 hot enough to get your attention, but not enough to singe them.\u00a0 Make it Quatro Amigos and enjoy a mug of steaming coffee with the salsa.\u00a0 The hot coffee accentuates the piquancy of the salsa. <\/span><\/p>\n

Biscuits<\/em> are among several breakfast must-haves.\u00a0 These are biscuits the way they should be made–light and flaky yet moist.\u00a0 Any Southern cook would be proud to serve these.\u00a0 Although we weren’t offered jam with these cloud-soft gems, the red and green chile we sopped up with them more than made up for the absence of any jam.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
Carne Adovada and Eggs: Two eggs cooked any style with carne adovada covered with cheese, served with Spanish rice and a tortilla.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

What prompted my inaugural (and very long overdue) visit to Atrisco Cafe & Bar was a delicious discussion with Cheryl Jamison and Kate Manchester, the brilliant publisher of Edible Santa Fe<\/a>.\u00a0 While compiling the 2011 edition of the New Mexico Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail<\/a>, we quite naturally got to talking about many of the Land of Enchantment’s culinary treasures and some of our favorite New Mexican specialties.\u00a0 Kate practically had me drooling with her description of Atrisco’s Roast Leg of Lamb Burrito<\/em> which showcases locally grown leg of lamb from Talus Wind Ranch<\/a> (near Galisteo), roasted to perfection and thinly sliced. <\/span><\/p>\n

Quite simply, this is one of the very best burritos I have ever had anywhere!\u00a0 The thinly sliced lamb is tender and delicious with nary a hint of the gaminess for which lamb is often lambasted.\u00a0 There is nothing else wrapped in the flour tortilla–just layers of luscious lamb.\u00a0 The burrito is topped with shredded cheese and your choice of red or green chile (or both).\u00a0 Because New Mexico is both a red and a green state, it’s only fitting to have both topping your burrito.\u00a0 The green chile is superb!\u00a0 It’s not especially piquant, but it positively radiates the flavor complexities of green chile, especially its fruitiness.\u00a0 It’s a chile with qualities of both having been roasted very well then being simmered for hours.\u00a0 The red chile is also rich and complex with quite a bit more piquancy than the green chile.\u00a0 This is Christmas the way it should be celebrated in New Mexico’s cocinas.<\/span><\/p>\n

Shortly after the 2009 launch of the New Mexico Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail, Cheryl Jamison was asked by Serious Eats<\/a> to put together a list of Santa Fe’s very best green chile cheeseburgers. Number three on the list she and husband Bill compiled was the burger at the Atrisco Cafe.\u00a0 Made with grass-fed beef raised in the Land of Enchantment, it’s prepared to your exacting specifications\u00a0 and is served with lettuce, onion and tomato on the side as well as your choice of American, Swiss or Cheddar cheese.\u00a0 The molten cheese drapes over the too mild green chile.\u00a0 Though my burger was perfectly prepared at medium with plenty of pink in the middle, the sesame seed topped wheat bread buns were overly toasted and desiccated and that chile was conspicuous only by its lack of bite. <\/span><\/p>\n

The carne adovada and eggs<\/em> breakfast entree more than made up for what may well be an uncharacteristically off day for the burger meister.\u00a0 Save for our skies and sunsets, few things in New Mexico are as spectacular as a plate brimming with two eggs cooked any style with carne adovada covered with cheese served with Spanish rice and a tortilla.\u00a0 Few things are quite as delicious as the carne adovada at Atrisco.\u00a0 The adovada is tender tendrils of moist, delicious pork simmered with terrific red chile.\u00a0 Spoon it up with your tortillas and you’ve got a New Mexico style bite-size sandwich. <\/span><\/p>\n

That we liked the Atrisco Cafe & Bar is no surprise.\u00a0 What surprised us most is that we enjoyed it more than we have other restaurants founded by Yia Yia Sophia’s descendants.\u00a0 An even bigger surprise is just how good the roast leg of lamb burrito is.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

Atrisco Cafe & Bar<\/strong>
\n193 Paseo de Peralta
\nSanta Fe, New Mexico<\/strong>
\n(505) 983-7401
\nWeb Site<\/strong><\/a>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 10 April 2011
\n# of VISITS<\/strong>: 1
\nRATING<\/strong>: N\/R
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>:\u00a0 Roasted Leg of Lamb Burrito, Carne Adovada and Eggs, Green Chile Cheeseburger, House-made Biscuits, Tres Amigos (Guacamole, Salsa and Chips)<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

From the snow-capped mountains to the coral shores You’re the only one my heart adores You’ve only got three competitors Tacos, enchiladas and beans From the Mississippi to the Amazon There’s not much we don’t agree upon Wish we could get together on Tacos, enchiladas and beans Love ’em, dozens of ’em I consume them by the score And when I’m through, what do I do I stamp and holler for more You can have the fourth position on my list Must admit your kisses would be missed But how in the world could I exist Without tacos, enchiladas and beans Doris Day In the dark ages when I was growing up in the high mountain community of Pe\u00f1asco, the…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":47143,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[540,112,141,588,5647,142],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-11104","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-breakfast","category-new-mexican","category-new-mexico","category-new-mexico-green-chile-cheeseburger-trail-2011","category-rating-n-r","category-santa-fe"],"yoast_head":"\nAtrisco Cafe & Bar - 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