{"id":12448,"date":"2011-10-06T19:54:47","date_gmt":"2011-10-07T01:54:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=12448"},"modified":"2018-07-18T20:30:04","modified_gmt":"2018-07-19T02:30:04","slug":"4-aces-grill-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=12448","title":{"rendered":"4 Aces Grill &#8211; Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)"},"content":{"rendered":"<div style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<figure style=\"width: 444px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 444px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 444\/246;border: 4px solid black; margin-top: 3px; margin-bottom: 3px;\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/abq\/newmexican\/images\/4AcesGrill01.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"444\" height=\"246\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" class=\"lazyload\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><\/span> <span style=\"font-size: 10pt;\">4 Aces Grill on Fourth Street<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">As a proud native New Mexican, my chest still swells with pride whenever I travel outside the Land of Enchantment (even to Texas, Arizona and Colorado) and espy a vehicle displaying the license plate of the great state of New Mexico.\u00a0 I&#8217;m not the only one.\u00a0 While stopping for gas in Iowa a few years ago, a couple from Roswell noticed our license plate and excitedly came over to find out where in New Mexico we were from.\u00a0 We wound up having lunch together, all the while discussing the great state in which we all live in.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">For citizens of the fruited plain not fortunate enough to live in New Mexico, seeing our state&#8217;s license plate within their borders evokes curiosity, especially if they&#8217;re attentive enough to notice that it reads &#8220;New Mexico U.S.A.&#8221;\u00a0 As the &#8220;<em>One of Our Fifty is Missing<\/em>&#8221; column in <em><a title=\"New Mexico Magazine\" href=\"http:\/\/www.nmmagazine.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">New Mexico Magazine<\/a><\/em> has demonstrated for more than a quarter of a century, many of our fellow American citizens and ill-informed bureaucrats don\u2019t even realize that New Mexico is part of the United States.\u00a0 When the unwashed and uninformed masses aren&#8217;t wondering if we&#8217;re carrying our passports as we cross their borders, they&#8217;re\u00a0 curious about the symbolism depicted on the license plates and our flag.<\/span><\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 444px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 444px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 444\/333;border: 4px solid black; margin-top: 3px; margin-bottom: 3px;\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/abq\/newmexican\/images\/4AcesGrill02.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"444\" height=\"333\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" class=\"lazyload\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><\/span> <span style=\"font-size: 10pt;\">One of the two dining rooms in the stylish 4 Aces Grill<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">Most New Mexicans are aware that our flag depicts the ancient sun symbol of the Zia (which translates literally as &#8220;people of the sun&#8221;) Pueblo Indians, but not everyone knows what the symbology represents.\u00a0 The Zia believed the giver of all good endowed them with gifts in groups of four.\u00a0 These gifts are represented on the Zia sun symbol as sixteen lines (or rays) radiating from the edge of a central circle representing the sun:<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">The rays at the top represent the winds of the four directions &#8211; north, east, south and west.<\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">The rays at the bottom represent the four seasons &#8211; spring, summer, fall and winter.<\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">The rays on the west side of the sun represent the day &#8211; dusk, twilight, morning and afternoon.<\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">The rays on the east side of the sun represent ife itself &#8211; childhood, youth, maturity and old age.<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">These sixteen rays, radiating in each of the four cardinal directions, are bound by a circle of life and love, without a beginning or end. Just as nature divides into fours, so do sacred obligations of all humans.\u00a0 All people are required to cultivate a strong body, a clear mind, a pure spirit and a sense of community within the community.\u00a0 Achieve these obligations and you achieve personal harmony within the universe.<\/span><\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 444px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 444px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 444\/333;border: 4px solid black; margin-top: 3px; margin-bottom: 3px;\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/abq\/newmexican\/images\/4AcesGrill03.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"444\" height=\"333\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" class=\"lazyload\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><\/span> <span style=\"font-size: 10pt;\">The patio at 4 Aces Grill<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">When I first heard about the 4 Aces Grill on Fourth Avenue, my curiosity was piqued as to why a high-end quality New Mexican restaurant would be named for something so un-New Mexican.\u00a0 Sure casinos have a significant presence in the Land of Enchantment, but you could hardly call them one of our state&#8217;s cultural or historical treasures.\u00a0 Moreover, I wondered about the symbology of the 4 Aces themselves.\u00a0 Could they possibly have a culinary significance of which I was unaware&#8211;maybe four seasonings or four degrees of piquancy?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">It turns out the 4 Aces name is in recognition of the restaurant&#8217;s chef (ace of diamonds, the mastermind behind the construction effort (ace of spades, restaurant owner (ace of clubs) and the restaurant owner (ace of hearts).\u00a0 That makes sense.\u00a0 Who wouldn&#8217;t want the braintrust behind the restaurant to be represented by something signifying the best or highest?\u00a0 Owner Tina Claghorn, a prominent real estate professional knows something about the best or highest, having been involved in the sale of some of New Mexico&#8217;s priciest homes.\u00a0 She employed her knowledge of real estate and construction to convert a building which once housed an Allsup&#8217;s convenience store into a beautiful edifice.<\/span><\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 293px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 293px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 293\/390;border: 4px solid black; margin-top: 3px; margin-bottom: 3px;\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/abq\/newmexican\/images\/4AcesGrill04.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"293\" height=\"390\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" class=\"lazyload\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><\/span> <span style=\"font-size: 10pt;\">Chef Saul Paniagua<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">The 4 Aces Grill seems a bit out of place in its Fourth Avenue location a couple blocks south of I40.\u00a0 Directly across the street is a used car dealership and most of its neighbors are timeworn businesses and warehouses.\u00a0 It&#8217;s the proverbial swan in an area replete with ugly ducklings.\u00a0 It&#8217;s easy to picture an Allsups on the location, but a pristine\u00a0 New Mexico stucco and Anasazi stonework inspired facade of an upscale restaurant seems startlingly out of place&#8230;and if you think 4 Aces is attractive on the outside, you&#8217;ll really be impressed when you step inside.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">4 Aces doesn&#8217;t exactly resemble the stereotype most have of restaurants which showcase New Mexican, Mexican and American culinary traditions.\u00a0 It&#8217;s very contemporary with exposed ductwork ceilings, tiled floors and bar and an expansive patio.\u00a0 The walls are festooned with art&#8211;fairly monotone framed &#8220;words of wisdom&#8221; on the day of our inaugural visit, but with the promise for more colorful art rotating on a regular basis.\u00a0 Seating is well-spaced with booths hugging the walls and comfortable chairs encircling round tables elsewhere.<\/span><\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 444px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 444px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 444\/346;border: 4px solid black; margin-top: 3px; margin-bottom: 3px;\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/abq\/newmexican\/images\/4AcesGrill05.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"444\" height=\"346\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" class=\"lazyload\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><\/span> <span style=\"font-size: 10pt;\">Salsa and Chips<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt;\"><span style=\"font-family: Verdana;\">At the helm is <a title=\"Chef Paniagua\" href=\"http:\/\/chefpaniagua.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Chef Saul Paniagua<\/a>, an Albuquerque native who&#8217;s very proud of his South Valley roots.\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"font-family: Verdana;\">When I snapped his picture, he joked that he&#8217;d normally be sporting his cholo bandana and pointed out his &#8220;tats&#8221; (that&#8217;s tattoos for you Nob Hill elites) as one of the expressions of his art (the other is his cuisine).\u00a0 As personable and endearing as chefs come, he also demonstrated his rapier-sharp wit when interviewed by Ryan Scott for <a title=\"Break the Chain Interview with Saul Paniagua\" href=\"http:\/\/breakthechain.info\/2011\/08\/07\/audio-4-aces-grill\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Break the Chain<\/a>, the terrific radio program which celebrates local non-chain restaurants.\u00a0 He teased that the interview could have gone south because he&#8217;s an Oakland Raiders fan while Ryan&#8217;s team is the Denver Broncos.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">Chef Paniagua, whose last name translates literally to &#8220;bread and water&#8221; was destined to become a chef.\u00a0 Before returning to Albuquerque, he managed the galley (that&#8217;s kitchen for you landlubbers) for Norwegian Cruise Lines. His stints at Duke City restaurants were at La Oja and Cristobal&#8217;s, two fine-dining restaurants.\u00a0 At 4 Aces, he&#8217;s got more license to create and create he does.\u00a0 The menu and Web site touts the restaurant&#8217;s meals as &#8220;inspired by family traditions passed down through the generations.&#8221;<\/span><\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 444px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 444px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 444\/333;border: 4px solid black; margin-top: 3px; margin-bottom: 3px;\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/abq\/newmexican\/images\/4AcesGrill06.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"444\" height=\"333\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" class=\"lazyload\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><\/span> <span style=\"font-size: 10pt;\">Chicken Taquitos with Chocolate Pasticcio Mole<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">The key word there is &#8220;inspired.&#8221;\u00a0 Chef Paniagua&#8217;s interpretations of New Mexican, Mexican and American dishes are given a cutting-edge twist.\u00a0 They don&#8217;t hold fast to culinary traditions and traditional recipes.\u00a0 He promises to continue creating &#8220;crazy New Mexican food&#8221; with an eye toward growing the 4 Aces concept.\u00a0 A second instantiation is planned for Albuquerque&#8217;s west side then eventually Santa Fe and eventually everywhere else.\u00a0 Chef Paniagua is confident his avant-garde style will win over the masses because he creates from &#8220;el corazon&#8221; (the heart) as well as his creative mind.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">Browse over the menu too quickly and you might skip over some of the intricate details that reveal just how different the 4 Aces menu is.\u00a0 The devil is truly in the details.\u00a0 If you read &#8220;<em>chicken taquitos<\/em>&#8221; on the appetizers menu, for example, you might just dismiss it as the humdrum standard pretty much served the same way almost everywhere.\u00a0 Chef Paniagua&#8217;s rendition is deliciously different.\u00a0 It&#8217;s fabulous!<\/span><\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 444px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 444px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 444\/356;border: 4px solid black; margin-top: 3px; margin-bottom: 3px;\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/abq\/newmexican\/images\/4AcesGrill07.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"444\" height=\"356\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" class=\"lazyload\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><\/span> <span style=\"font-size: 10pt;\">New York Strip with Two Chiles Relleno, Calabasitas and Garlic Mashed Potatoes<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">Four chicken taquitos resembling thick blue corn cigars are engorged with finely shredded chicken so tender, smoky and utterly delicious no accompaniment is necessary.\u00a0 Instead of leaving well enough alone, Chef Paniagua includes two ramekins, one brimming with salsa and the other with a white chocolate pistachio mole.\u00a0 The mole is special.\u00a0 It captivated (for good reason) both <a title=\"Andrea Lin's Duke City Food\" href=\"http:\/\/www.dukecityfood.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Andrea Lin<\/a> of the <a title=\"Albuquerque Journal\" href=\"http:\/\/www.abqjournal.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Albuquerque Journal<\/a> and <a href=\"http:\/\/www.breakthechain.info\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Break the Chain&#8217;s<\/a> Ryan Scott.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">Ryan&#8217;s spot-on assessment of most moles is that chefs tend to be rather heavy-handed in preparing them.\u00a0 As a result he&#8217;s not met a mole he&#8217;s enjoyed.\u00a0 The 4 Aces mole is the dark greenish color of guacamole gone bad, but it has the flavor of mole elevated to the level of sublime.\u00a0 As with most moles in which chocolate is an ingredient, the chocolate is rather subdued, serving a complementary role to breads, spices and nuts in perfect proportions for maximum flavor.\u00a0 A small &#8220;salad&#8221; (queso fresco, lettuce, chopped tomato) is served on the plate with the taquitos.<\/span><\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 444px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 444px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 444\/378;border: 4px solid black; margin-top: 3px; margin-bottom: 3px;\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/abq\/newmexican\/images\/4AcesGrill08.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"444\" height=\"378\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" class=\"lazyload\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><\/span> <span style=\"font-size: 10pt;\">Surf and Turf: Ribeye Steak, Blue Corn and Sesame Battered Jumbo Shrimp, Calabasitas and Refried Beans<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">Salsa and chips are complimentary at 4 Aces.\u00a0 I mention that because it&#8217;s increasingly rare for New Mexican restaurants to serve <em>salsa and chips<\/em>, much less truly great salsa and chips, without charging for them.\u00a0 Chef Paniagua roasts the vegetables used on his restaurant&#8217;s salsa.\u00a0 The prevalent flavors are of smoky, roasted tomato and chipotle.\u00a0 Blue, red and yellow corn chips are made on the premises.\u00a0 They have a crispy crunch, are low in salt and are formidable enough for Gil-sized scoops.\u00a0 It&#8217;s a perfect combination.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">The &#8220;main&#8221; menu is offered during both lunch and dinner.\u00a0 Only eight items, not counting daily specials, are featured. Of those, only one (blue corn enchiladas) might be considered truly New Mexican though New Mexican ingredients such as blue corn are showcased on other items.\u00a0\u00a0 The menu also includes two steak entrees including a <em>New York Strip<\/em> and chile rellenos plate served with two sides.\u00a0 The New York Strip is nicely seasoned, all twelve tender and juicy ounces of it.\u00a0 The chile rellenos are thickly encrusted with a blue corn and sesame batter.\u00a0 Cut into the crust and you&#8217;re treated to poblanos engorged with gooey, melted cheese.\u00a0 The blue corn batter makes these special.<\/span><\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 444px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 444px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 444\/349;border: 4px solid black; margin-top: 3px; margin-bottom: 3px;\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/abq\/newmexican\/images\/4AcesGrill12.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"444\" height=\"349\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" class=\"lazyload\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><\/span> <span style=\"font-size: 10pt;\">Blue Corn Enchiladas Plate with Refried Beans and Mashed Potatoes<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">The other steak is part of a <em>surf and turf<\/em> plate.\u00a0 The surf part consists of three blue corn and sesame battered jumbo shrimp served with a raspberry-chipotle dipping sauce and the turf is a red chile ribeye steak.\u00a0 The light blue corn batter on the shrimp is crispy and the shrimp is perfectly prepared with a nice snap to it.\u00a0 At medium, the ribeye has a nice pink center and is surprisingly tender (though not as tender as the New York Strip).\u00a0 The red chile is only mild on any piquancy scale, but it imbues the steak with a rich flavor and just a hint of smokiness.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">\u00a0The main entrees are served with two sides.\u00a0 Those include calabasitas, refried beans, poblano rice and garlic mashed potatoes. The calabasitas caught the fancy of <a title=\"Break the Chain Blog\" href=\"http:\/\/breakthechain.info\/blog\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Break the Chain blogger<\/a> Cheri Frost whose &#8220;big guy&#8221; liked them a little too much. It&#8217;s easy to see why. These calabasitas are terrific&#8211;crisp, moist, buttery and seasoned to perfection. The refried beans have that familiar cooked with lard taste. Make sure to ask for red chile with which to top the refried beans. The chile, probably from the Sandia pepper, is terrific!\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 366px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 366px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 366\/367;border: 4px solid black; margin-top: 3px; margin-bottom: 3px;\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/abq\/newmexican\/images\/4AcesGrill10.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"366\" height=\"367\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" class=\"lazyload\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><\/span> <span style=\"font-size: 10pt;\">Mango and Lemon Sorbet<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">My friend Dave, a world-traveling bon vivant who&#8217;s not easily impressed was blown away by Chef Paniagua&#8217;s culinary wizardry, calling the food &#8220;elegant&#8221; and &#8220;a parade of surprises.&#8221;\u00a0 What enthralled him most were the blue corn chicken enchiladas which he believes are &#8220;the standard all others will have to be judged by.&#8221;\u00a0 For Dave to be impressed by something means it&#8217;s got to be great.\u00a0 The blue corn enchiladas are!\u00a0 These enchiladas are stacked Northern New Mexico style, showcasing perfectly round, perfectly prepared blue corn tortillas stuffed with a flavorful Cheddar cheese and topped with red and green chile.\u00a0 The chile rates mild on any piquancy scale, but it&#8217;s got a nice flavor.\u00a0 Best of all, there&#8217;s plenty of it and you can use the excess as a &#8220;gravy&#8221; on the mashed potatoes and refried beans (my two sides).<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">Chef Paniagua even makes his own desserts. One of his specialties is a <em>flourless red chile chocolate torte<\/em>, one of the best flourless cakes I&#8217;ve ever had.\u00a0 It&#8217;s dense and rich with a deep cocoa flavor tinged with a red chile that warms the back of your throat\u00a0 with that unique red chile heat that doesn&#8217;t burn.\u00a0 This dessert is topped with raspberries and whipped cream, the former of which provide a tangy contrast to the rich chocolate.<\/span><\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 293px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 293px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 293\/390;border: 4px solid black; margin-top: 3px; margin-bottom: 3px;\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/abq\/newmexican\/images\/4AcesGrill09.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"293\" height=\"390\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" class=\"lazyload\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><\/span> <span style=\"font-size: 10pt;\">Flourless Red Chile Chocolate Torte<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">Another Chef Paniagua specialty is sorbet, the palate-cleansing, refreshing and flavor-packed fruity variety.\u00a0 The mango sorbet has a pronounced fresh mango flavor and a velvety soft texture that includes crystalline bits.\u00a0 Too much sugar makes sorbet too soft.\u00a0 The right amount gives it the combination of soft and icy crystal texture I like. \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">The 4 Aces Grill serves breakfast seven days a week starting at seven o&#8217;clock.\u00a0 In a recent breakfast burrito challenge sponsored by <a title=\"Albuquerque The Magazine\" href=\"http:\/\/www.abqthemag.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Albuquerque The Magazine<\/a>, the 4 Aces breakfast burrito was among the very best in the city from over 100 competitors.\u00a0 (Chef Paniagua, by the way, also competed in the Chef Knockout competition in 2010.)\u00a0 That&#8217;s a good reason to start your morning at this refreshingly different April, 2011 entrant into the Duke City dining scene.\u00a0 Other reasons include blue corn pancakes and huevos rancheros.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\">The type of pride the staff at 4 Aces Grill has for its cuisine and restaurant operation reminds me of the pride I feel for the Land of Enchantment. Chef Paniagua beams with pride about his menu. The staff is happy, smiles abound. This is a fun restaurant in which to dine. More importantly, it&#8217;s a restaurant going places &#8212; maybe to the very top! <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana;\"><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\"><strong>4 Aces Grill<\/strong><\/span><br \/>\n1527 4th Street, N.W.<br \/>\n<strong>Albuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong><br \/>\n<strong>LATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 6 October 2011<br \/>\n<strong>1st VISIT<\/strong>:\u00a0 13 August 2011<br \/>\n<strong># OF VISITS<\/strong>: 2<br \/>\n<strong>RATING<\/strong>: <strong><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">22<\/span><\/strong><br \/>\n<strong>COST<\/strong>: $$<br \/>\n<strong>BEST BET<\/strong>: Salsa and Chips, Chicken Taquitos with Chocolate Pasticcio Mole,\u00a0New York Strip with Two Chiles Relleno, Calabasitas and Garlic Mashed Potatoes,\u00a0Surf and Turf: Ribeye Steak, Blue Corn and Sesame Battered Jumbo Shrimp, Calabasitas and Refried Beans, Mango and Lemon Sorbet,\u00a0Flourless Red Chile Chocolate Torte,<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 10pt;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.urbanspoon.com\/r\/60\/1601920\/restaurant\/Martinez-Town\/4-Aces-Grill-Albuquerque\"><img decoding=\"async\" style=\"width: 200px; height: 146px;\" data-src=\"http:\/\/www.urbanspoon.com\/b\/link\/1601920\/biglink.gif\" alt=\"4 Aces Grill on Urbanspoon\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" class=\"lazyload\" \/><\/a><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>As a proud native New Mexican, my chest still swells with pride whenever I travel outside the Land of Enchantment (even to Texas, Arizona and Colorado) and espy a vehicle displaying the license plate of the great state of New Mexico.\u00a0 I&#8217;m not the only one.\u00a0 While stopping for gas in Iowa a few years ago, a couple from Roswell noticed our license plate and excitedly came over to find out where in New Mexico we were from.\u00a0 We wound up having lunch together, all the while discussing the great state in which we all live in. For citizens of the fruited plain not fortunate enough to live in New Mexico, seeing our state&#8217;s license plate within their borders evokes&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":47055,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,595,262,112],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-12448","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-closed-in-2012","category-closed","category-new-mexican"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>4 Aces Grill - Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED) - Gil&#039;s Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=12448\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"4 Aces Grill - Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED) - Gil&#039;s Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"As a proud native New Mexican, my chest still swells with pride whenever I travel outside the Land of Enchantment (even to Texas, Arizona and Colorado) and espy a vehicle displaying the license plate of the great state of New Mexico.\u00a0 I&#8217;m not the only one.\u00a0 While stopping for gas in Iowa a few years ago, a couple from Roswell noticed our license plate and excitedly came over to find out where in New Mexico we were from.\u00a0 We wound up having lunch together, all the while discussing the great state in which we all live in. 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