{"id":13474,"date":"2011-11-07T01:06:10","date_gmt":"2011-11-07T07:06:10","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=13474"},"modified":"2025-10-01T18:40:42","modified_gmt":"2025-10-02T00:40:42","slug":"il-mulino-of-new-york-las-vegas-nevada","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=13474","title":{"rendered":"Il Mulino of New York – Las Vegas, Nevada (CLOSED)"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
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Arguably the very best Italian restaurant in New York City is now available in Las Vegas at Caesars Forum Shops<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

While it may seem that Las Vegas is one perpetual bachelor party with hundreds of drunken frat boys expressing themselves loudly through expletives while leaving a hazy trail of smoke in their wake as they converge upon casino after casino<\/span>, Sin City does have its pockets of civility.\u00a0 One such refuge is Il Mulino during the lunch hour when it’s a veritable island of isolation and paragon of propriety despite being mere feet from the maddening throngs.\u00a0 Perhaps it’s that aspect of propriety that explains the absence of teeming masses during lunch.
\n<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Yes, it’s THAT Il Mulino, scion of the famous Italian restaurant held in reverential esteem and cited by the cognoscenti as perhaps the very best Italian restaurant in all of the five boroughs comprising New York City (although Mario Batali might have something to say about that).\u00a0\u00a0 The Las Vegas outpost of the fabulous Metropolis Italian restaurant is located at the top level of the Forum Shops at Caesars next door to Tommy Bahama.\u00a0 The setting is so elegant, the ambiance so splendorous that you’ll quickly forget the proximal partiers.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

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The interior of Il Mulino<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

It’s not the crapulous carousers who frequent Il Mulino at night, but a more conservative, nattily attired crowd which appreciates and can afford decorum with their deliciousness.\u00a0 Unlike at the personal proximity, sardine can tight seating at the New York City institution, there’s plenty of elbow room at the Vegas instantiation.\u00a0 You’ll need that room to loosen your belt a notch or two, such is the alimentary excess to which you will be treated.\u00a0 Virtually from the moment you’re seated until you settle the bill of fare, the ingratiating staff will continue to feed you in a manner reminiscent of an Italian grandmother.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

As you pass through the double doors into the capacious and swanky milieu, the casino seems to melt away into the background.\u00a0 To your right is a wine cellar any oenophile will love and at your left flank is a long bar atop of which are several jars of fruits (lemons, pears, strawberries) marinating in grappa, a brandy distilled from the fermented residue of grapes after they have been pressed in wine-making.\u00a0 Those fruits will marinate for several weeks, after which the resultant liqueur is as smooth and aromatic as the nectar beloved by Roman gods.\u00a0 Our waiter made sure our meal ended with pear grappa, the perfect ending to a perfect meal.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

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Our waiter cutting out hunks of parmesan for us<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Plush burgundy carpet ensures a comfortable walk to your table, overlaid with white linens and impeccably set with crystal stemware, silver place settings and a single red rose.\u00a0 Wrought-iron Gothic chandeliers provide overhead illumination while large picture windows let in natural sunlight and provide a view of the strip without letting in the cacophony.\u00a0 Weather permitting, you can dine on the patio where you’ll have an even better view, but then you’d be foregoing a meal at one of the city’s most luxurious dining rooms.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

As you stride to your table, you can’t help but note–both visually and olfactory–a frying pan sizzling over a cook stove burner and a tuxedo-clad waiter lovingly tending to a tangle of peppery ribbons of zucchini marinated in extra virgin olive oil.\u00a0 You’ll make a mental note to order this olfactory arousing siren, but you need not.\u00a0 It’s one of several complementary items the wait staff will bring to your table.\u00a0 By the time your meal is done, you’ll feel more affection for the genteel wait staff than you will for your many of your relatives.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Zucchini and salami<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The lightly fried zucchini is served cold, the fragrant remnants of the frying process undeniable.\u00a0 The olive oil in which the zucchini is fried and later marinated in is of excellent quality–rich and unctuous with pungent notes.\u00a0 The zucchini is served with painfully thin slices of richly marbled salami.\u00a0 The salami is obviously not processed; it’s an indulgent quality salami you might save for a special occasion.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

The increasingly endearing waiter will then approach your table with a quarter wheel of imported Grana Padano, a semi-hard grainy cousin of Parmesan.\u00a0 He will expertly slice a hunk or three and deposit them carefully onto your plate.\u00a0 This is the type of cheese turophiliacs (people obsessed with cheese) will sniff, perhaps to discern the grasses consumed by the happy cows who produced this rich, delicately flavored cheese.\u00a0 Compared to its Italian cousin Parmigiano, it’s not quite as salty, is less “nutty” and is definitely more subtle.<\/span><\/p>\n

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An amuse-bouch: bruschetta and a single mussel<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The next thing your benefactor-waiter will bring to your table is an amuse-bouche of bruschetta with tomato and basil along with a single mussel.\u00a0 Amuse-bouche are typically single, bite-sized “hors d’oeurvres” (though you’d better not use that term around an Italian serving it to you), but this bruschetta is easily a three-bite snack.\u00a0 It is thoroughly soaked in olive oil, but not enough to render it mushy.\u00a0 The lightly toasted bruschetta still crunches when you bite into it.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

Not pictured in this review is the basket of breads your waiter (with whom you’ll be in love by this point) will bring you.\u00a0 The basket includes hard-crusted Italian bread and lightly toasted garlic bread saturated in unctuous olive oil.\u00a0 Real butter spreads on nicely on the Italian country bread, but you’ll want to save a slice or two to sop up the sauce-laden entrees to follow.\u00a0 It’s almost sinful to call the second bread “garlic bread” because it’s what all garlic bread should taste like.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Antipasti of Caprese: Fresh buffalo mozzarella, sliced tomato, sprig of basil, fig, roasted red pepper with capers, prosciutto di Parma with aged Balsamico and olive oil<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

By this point you’re probably contemplating a post-meal nap or might be considering proposing to your waiter who, thus far, has lavished you with more gifts than a lover.\u00a0 It’s here that the waiter will recite the day’s specials.\u00a0\u00a0 Cognitive psychologists have long theorized that retaining\u00a0 much more than seven chunks of information in memory is a challenge (especially if you’re older than fifty).\u00a0 The Il Mulino staff has a Jeopardy contestant-like ability to remember much more.\u00a0 The list of specials reads like some restaurants’ entire menus and each special may include more than seven chunks of information itself.\u00a0 I still haven’t memorized my cell phone number so the specials recital feat greatly impressed me.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

So did our antipasti choice, a sort of deconstructed Caprese salad consisting of richly marbled prosciutto di Parma sliced so thinly you could almost see through it; fresh buffalo mozzarella; a sprig of fresh, fragrant basil; a large, sweet fig; and roasted red peppers topped with capers.\u00a0 Opt to have the aged Balsamico and extra virgin olive oil drizzled onto the entire plate for an even more flavorful starter.\u00a0 A great aged Balsamic (and there is none better than New Mexico’s own Aceto Balsamico).<\/a> enhances the flavor of virtually everything and Il Mulino uses a great Balsamico.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Tortellini alla Panna: meat tortellini with cream sauce and sweet peas with a touch of black truffle sauce<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

From among the antipasti, my favorite is probably the buffalo mozzarella which is soft and moist with a pronounced milky flavor. It literally oozes milk and has a musky, slightly grassy and thoroughly unctuous flavor. If you’ve ever had buffalo mozzarella from the Campana region of Italy, the rubbery American versions of mozzarella will never do.\u00a0 Il Mulino does not compromise on quality.\u00a0 The antipasti will set you back as much as some entrees at a fine-dining restaurant, but the memories alone are worth the splurge.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

You won’t fine spaghetti or even lasagna on the menu.\u00a0 Il Mulino’s Northern Italian menu does have its red sauce pasta dishes, but more prominent are rich, creamy white sauces.\u00a0 You’ll also find refined risottos, the type of which prompt me to forgo pasta every time.\u00a0 The pesci (seafood), carne (beef and lamb) and pollo (poultry) entrees tend to be more pricy.\u00a0 Portions are profligate.\u00a0 Think family-sized portions.\u00a0 You’ll definitely find yourself taking leftovers home.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Risotto Primavera: seasonal vegetables with prosciutto<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

If one of your criteria for a life mate is someone who can cook, that’s another quality you’ll love about the wait staff.\u00a0 The kitchen may compose and conduct the masterpieces, but it’s your waiter who will take them to their crescendo in small cook stove burners at their prep station.\u00a0 It’s the waiter who will shave black truffles onto your pasta and who will season them to perfection.\u00a0 It’s your waiter who will toss the al dente pasta and perfectly prepared risotto to ensure they will arrive at your table at their peak of flavor saturation and temperature.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

The tortellini alla Panna<\/em>, a meat tortellini with a cream sauce and sweet peas and a touch of black truffles is one of those rare dishes that borders on nauseatingly rich–so rich you swear you can’t eat another bite, but so good you can’t stop eating it.\u00a0 The pasta is perfectly al dente, the truffle scented sauce is absolutely addictive and each tortellini is generously stuffed.\u00a0 The green peas taste freshly shucked out of a pod.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Tiramisu with zabaglione and berries<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Risotto became a part of pop culture when a Seinfeld episode lampooned the post-coital ritual of lighting up a cigarette\u2013only in this case George Costanza\u2019s girlfriend lit up contentedly after a satisfying meal of risotto. The noisy ardor with which she consumed the risotto was something the ego-fragile George couldn\u2019t elicit from her in the bedroom. The risotto at Il Mulino might elicit such a passion.\u00a0 <\/span>One criticism friends have levied towards me is my penchant for ordering risotto at fine-dining Italian restaurants then enumerating the number of select few restaurants who have prepared the risotto correctly.\u00a0 In recent years, my count has climbed from under a handful to a baker’s dozen.\u00a0 Il Mulino’s is among the very best.
\n<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Four risotto options are available: Risotto Frutti di Mare (assorted seafood), Risotto Milanese (saffron with white wine), Risotto Porcini (assorted wild mushrooms) and Risotto Primavera<\/em> (seasonal vegetables with prosciutto).\u00a0 It’s the latter I ordered and consumed lustily.\u00a0 The fresh seasonal vegetables included zucchini, onions, mushrooms and broccoli were perfectly prepared and seasoned.\u00a0 The risotto was artisinal, each fluffy long-grain of rice inheriting the flavors of the olive oil and stock in which they are prepared.\u00a0 Risotto bears careful watching and constant stirring so that when done, the rice is cooked through and redolent with a creamy sauce made as the starch leaches out of the rice and melds with the stock.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Tartufo with Zabaglione and berries<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Full as you might be after your marathon meal, it’s nearly impossible to resist your waiter’s charms as he describes the dessert menu, paying attention to enunciate the qualities of his particular favorite.\u00a0 Fortunately our waiter’s favorite dessert is also my favorite–tiramisu<\/em>.\u00a0 Il Mulino’s version is enhanced further with a pool of rich zabaglione studded with berries.\u00a0 The tiramisu is drenched in Kahlua and is as good as any tiramisu I’ve ever had anywhere.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

Another terrific dessert option–particularly if you like ice cream–is the tartufo<\/em> which translates literally from Italian to “truffle.”\u00a0 It’s a rich (a word which seems to describe almost everything on the menu) Italian ice cream dessert composed of two flavors of ice cream–an adult dark chocolate and a nutty vanilla covered with a dark chocolate shell.\u00a0 The two chocolate shells are flanked by pools of zabaglione with berries.\u00a0 If you weren’t completely full before dessert, you will be afterwards, but it’ll be a good full, one you’ll long remember with a swoon.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Pera Grappa<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Il Mulino has expanded beyond New York City to Roslyn, New York; Miami, Florida; Washington, D.C.; Chicago, Ilinois; San Juan, Puerto Rico; Orlando, Florida; and Houston, Texas.\u00a0 It’s a long-standing restaurant philosophy to use only the best and freshest ingredients possible, to prepare and present every item beautifully and to treat all guests with close personal attention to maximize their dining experience.\u00a0 Mission accomplished!\u00a0\u00a0 Il Mulino gave me one of the very best dining experiences of my life–not just one of the best Italian, but the best of any type.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

Il Mulino of New York<\/strong>
\nCaesars Forum Shops
\n3570 South Las Vegas Blvd.
\nLas Vegas, Nevada<\/strong>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 7 November 2011
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 1
\nRATING<\/strong>: N\/R <\/span>
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$$$ – $$$$$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Capresa, Tortellini alla Panna, Risotto Primavera, Tiramisu, Tartufo, Pera Grappa, Tartufo<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

While it may seem that Las Vegas is one perpetual bachelor party with hundreds of drunken frat boys expressing themselves loudly through expletives while leaving a hazy trail of smoke in their wake as they converge upon casino after casino, Sin City does have its pockets of civility.\u00a0 One such refuge is Il Mulino during the lunch hour when it’s a veritable island of isolation and paragon of propriety despite being mere feet from the maddening throngs.\u00a0 Perhaps it’s that aspect of propriety that explains the absence of teeming masses during lunch. Yes, it’s THAT Il Mulino, scion of the famous Italian restaurant held in reverential esteem and cited by the cognoscenti as perhaps the very best Italian restaurant in…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":47049,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[726,262,71,16,553],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-13474","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-closed-in-2020","category-closed","category-italian","category-las-vegas","category-across-america"],"yoast_head":"\nIl Mulino of New York - Las Vegas, Nevada (CLOSED) - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=13474\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Il Mulino of New York - Las Vegas, Nevada (CLOSED) - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"While it may seem that Las Vegas is one perpetual bachelor party with hundreds of drunken frat boys expressing themselves loudly through expletives while leaving a hazy trail of smoke in their wake as they converge upon casino after casino, Sin City does have its pockets of civility.\u00a0 One such refuge is Il Mulino during the lunch hour when it’s a veritable island of isolation and paragon of propriety despite being mere feet from the maddening throngs.\u00a0 Perhaps it’s that aspect of propriety that explains the absence of teeming masses during lunch. 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