{"id":142,"date":"2006-05-17T04:05:17","date_gmt":"2006-05-17T03:05:17","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=142"},"modified":"2026-04-05T14:31:46","modified_gmt":"2026-04-05T20:31:46","slug":"el-paragua-espanola-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=142","title":{"rendered":"El Paragua – Espa\u00f1ola, New Mexico"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
\"\"
El Paragua Restaurant in Espa\u00f1ola (View From the West)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

If small businesses are the backbone of American commerce, then the good old-fashioned lemonade stand is the spinal cord<\/em>.”\u00a0 That sagacious metaphor (for which I unfortunately cannot take credit) is an apt description for how El Paragua transcended its humble beginnings to become one of the culinary crown jewels of Northern New Mexico.<\/p>\n

\"\"
El Paragua Restaurant in Espa\u00f1ola (View From The South)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In 1958, the Atencio brothers, two precocious entrepreneurs growing up in the enchanting Espa\u00f1ola valley did the old-fashioned lemonade stand one better.\u00a0 They built a stand in which they sold their mother’s tacos and tamales.\u00a0 The stand’s overhanging roof provided respite from the rain, hence the name “El Paragua” or “the umbrella.”\u00a0 By 1965, the Atencio boys’ business was booming and the family home was transformed into a sit-down restaurant in which hungry patrons could partake of all of Mama Atencio’s culinary magic.<\/p>\n

Today El Paragua is a dining destination that has achieved worldwide acclaim.\u00a0 Dr. N Scott Momaday, the UNM educated (Bachelor’s degree) Pulitzer Prize winner wrote a glowing review for the New York Times<\/em>.\u00a0 The restaurant’s walls are papered with reviews from such industry standard publications as Gourmet, Bon Appetit<\/em> and Sunset<\/em> magazine as well as numerous newspapers.<\/p>\n

El Paragua’s decor combines the varying influences of the traditional Hispanic culture unique to northern New Mexico, but you might also swear you’re dining in old Mexico.\u00a0 That means an eclectic mix of eye-catching brickerbrack strewn throughout the capacious restaurant’s several dining rooms.\u00a0 In one of those dining rooms, the bases of the cloth covered tables were constructed of old treadle-type Singer sewing machines.\u00a0 The ceilings were fashioned of heavy wooden beams and the dark, alluring ambience is of stone and wood.\u00a0 The floors are red-tiled while multi-hued, hand-painted Saltillo tile trimmings accentuate the walls on which are also hung vintage family photographs and Catholic iconography.<\/p>\n

Despite the aforementioned trappings, once your eyes have adjusted to the dimly lit front room, they will probably train instantly on the stately, multi-trunked cottonwood that grows through the restaurant’s roof.\u00a0 That imposing tree extends upward for fifty feet or more–still providing an umbrella of shade for El Parasol, the taco stand next door.<\/p>\n

You won’t be seated long before a basket of complementary low-salt chips (thin and crisp) and a bowl of fiery, Christmassy (red and green) jalapeno-based salsa is brought to your table.\u00a0 The salsa is replenished faithfully and despite more than a hint of cilantro, is quite good.\u00a0 Expect to consume two or three bowls before your entrees are served.<\/p>\n

The menu is unlike that of other New Mexican restaurants.\u00a0 It’s more than an eclectic mix of American, Mexican and New Mexican items and includes a surprising array of mariscos (Mexican seafood) and steak.\u00a0 The steak selections includes Churrasco Argentino<\/strong>, <\/em>cooked in a green herb salsa chimichurri and served for two on a hot brazier.\u00a0 Steaks and fish (try the pan-fried breaded trout<\/em> almondine<\/em>) are grilled over a mesquite-wood fire.\u00a0 For less meaty fare, the lime-basted chicken<\/em> with apple sauce is a delicious option.<\/p>\n

The menu’s selection of New Mexican food is incomparable.\u00a0 Authentic New Mexican treasures (such as menudo) and variations (such as chorizo enchiladas) on those treasures abound.\u00a0 The best way to sample the restaurant’s savory New Mexican fare is by ordering a combination plate<\/em><\/strong> which includes a tamale, enchilada, taco, carne adovada, refried beans and rice.\u00a0 The shredded beef taco is the same one you’d get next door at El Parasol.\u00a0 Everything on the combination plate save for the carne adovada (too much cilantro) is absolutely delicious.<\/p>\n

It’s easy to see why the carnitas<\/em><\/strong> are a popular favorite.\u00a0 The chunks of pork marinated with grilled onions and tomatoes are delicious bite-sized pieces of some of the very best carnitas you’ll find in New Mexico.<\/p>\n

The complementary sopaipillas<\/em><\/strong> are light, flaky and huge, maybe the largest sopaipillas we’ve seen.\u00a0 Despite their prolific size, they form perfect, accommodating pockets for honey or the restaurant’s house-made apricot preserves.<\/p>\n

If you’re a caloric overachiever and you’ve got the room for it, don’t dare pass up two New Mexican dessert comfort foods–natillas<\/em><\/strong>, an egg-based custard and capirotada<\/em><\/strong>, New Mexican bread pudding.\u00a0 I don’t know of any other restaurant menus in New Mexico that feature capirotada and though it’s not nearly as wonderful as the one my mom makes, it’s quite good for a restaurant offering.<\/p>\n

El Paragua is only 24 miles north of Santa Fe, just off the Taos Highway on State Road 76.\u00a0 It’s the type of restaurant you wouldn’t mind driving 100 miles for.<\/p>\n

El Paragua<\/strong>
\n603 Santa Cruz
\nEspa\u00f1ola, New Mexico<\/strong>
\n(575) 753-3211
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 17 May 2006
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 3
\nRATING<\/strong>: Very Good<\/span>\u00a0<\/strong>\u2013\u00a0Good to very good food; generally solid; delivers consistent quality, strong technique, and a comfortable, enjoyable dining experience
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Combination Platter, Natillas, Chips & Salsa<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

If small businesses are the backbone of American commerce, then the good old-fashioned lemonade stand is the spinal cord.”\u00a0 That sagacious metaphor (for which I unfortunately cannot take credit) is an apt description for how El Paragua transcended its humble beginnings to become one of the culinary crown jewels of Northern New Mexico. In 1958, the Atencio brothers, two precocious entrepreneurs growing up in the enchanting Espa\u00f1ola valley did the old-fashioned lemonade stand one better.\u00a0 They built a stand in which they sold their mother’s tacos and tamales.\u00a0 The stand’s overhanging roof provided respite from the rain, hence the name “El Paragua” or “the umbrella.”\u00a0 By 1965, the Atencio boys’ business was booming and the family home was transformed into…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":48964,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[302,112,141,581,5631],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-142","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-espanola","category-new-mexican","category-new-mexico","category-new-mexico-culinary-treasures","category-very-good"],"yoast_head":"\nEl Paragua - Espa\u00f1ola, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=142\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"El Paragua - Espa\u00f1ola, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"If small businesses are the backbone of American commerce, then the good old-fashioned lemonade stand is the spinal cord.”\u00a0 That sagacious metaphor (for which I unfortunately cannot take credit) is an apt description for how El Paragua transcended its humble beginnings to become one of the culinary crown jewels of Northern New Mexico. In 1958, the Atencio brothers, two precocious entrepreneurs growing up in the enchanting Espa\u00f1ola valley did the old-fashioned lemonade stand one better.\u00a0 They built a stand in which they sold their mother’s tacos and tamales.\u00a0 The stand’s overhanging roof provided respite from the rain, hence the name “El Paragua” or “the umbrella.”\u00a0 By 1965, the Atencio boys’ business was booming and the family home was transformed into…\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=142\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:author\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/nmgastronome\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2006-05-17T03:05:17+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2026-04-05T20:31:46+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2006\/05\/Paragua01.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"505\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"338\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Gil Garduno\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Gil Garduno\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"5 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=142#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=142\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Gil Garduno\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/423b9c3eeeb199e43ab4f1f584fa67bf\"},\"headline\":\"El Paragua – Espa\u00f1ola, New Mexico\",\"datePublished\":\"2006-05-17T03:05:17+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2026-04-05T20:31:46+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=142\"},\"wordCount\":854,\"commentCount\":7,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=142#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2006\\\/05\\\/Paragua01.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"Espa\u00f1ola\",\"New Mexican\",\"New Mexico\",\"New Mexico Culinary Treasures Trail\",\"Rating: Very Good\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=142#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=142\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=142\",\"name\":\"El Paragua - 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