{"id":16700,"date":"2012-07-17T08:20:19","date_gmt":"2012-07-17T14:20:19","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=16700"},"modified":"2026-04-06T09:57:56","modified_gmt":"2026-04-06T15:57:56","slug":"schooners-coastal-kitchen-bar-monterey-california","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=16700","title":{"rendered":"Schooners Coastal Kitchen & Bar – Monterey, California"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Schooners Coastal Kitchen & Bar in the Cannery Row area of Monterey, California<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Cannery Row in Monterey in California is a poem,
\na stink, a grating noise, a quality of light, a tone,
\na habit, a nostalgia, a dream.\u201d
\n~<\/span><\/em>John Steinbeck<\/strong><\/span>
\n<\/span>Cannery Row, 1945<\/strong><\/span>
\n<\/span><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

During basic military training in the Air Force, several of us who could speak multiple languages were asked to take the Defense Language Aptitude Battery (DLAB), the test the military services use to measure aptitude to learn a foreign language.\u00a0 Fewer than five percent of people who take (or retake) the DLAB pass it.\u00a0 Somehow I managed a high score and was extended an opportunity to attend the Defense Language Institute Foreign Language Center at the Presidio of Monterey.\u00a0\u00a0 My response, one borne of ignorance and stupidity, was “I don’t want to go to Mexico.”\u00a0 It had not dawned on me that the Monterey being offered was in California.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

Over the years, I’ve revisited my decision frequently.\u00a0 On one hand, the Air Force might have decided to have me learn Arabic or Iranian then stationed me on a remote mountaintop to listen to and decipher chatter.\u00a0 On the other, the year or so spent in Monterey would have been glorious (other than the hours of poring over language tapes and books).\u00a0 Every ten years or so, I manage to visit Monterey where I once again ponder the obtuse decisions of my youth.\u00a0 It usually results in me thinking that the time spent in Monterey would have been worth the hazards and remoteness of an assignment as a cryptology linguist.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Outdoor patio at Schooners<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Monterey, California in 1977 when I would have attended the Defense Language Institute is not the Monterey of 1945 when Steinbeck wrote his novel and if anything, it’s changed significantly since 1977.\u00a0 The Monterey of Steinbeck’s novel Cannery Row<\/em> was set during the Great Depression when sardine fishing created a boom economy in the village.\u00a0 Cannery Row is the living backdrop for the book, a unique neighborhood of fish packing plants, bordellos, and flophouses.\u00a0 The novel made Cannery Row the most famous street in America.<\/span><\/p>\n

Today Cannery Row is among the most popular vacation destinations on California’s magnificent central coast with many of the city’s very best attractions, hotels, dining establishments, shopping and nightlife available in the area.\u00a0 Sardine fishing has made a resurgence in recent years, with sardine boats swaying on anchor next to vessels that troll for tuna and whale sighting charter boats.\u00a0 Monterey has become an epicenter of the sustainable fishing movement.\u00a0 Then there’s the Monterey Bay Aquarium, one of the very best of its kind in the world.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Pacific Dungeness Crab Cake: Corn and Avocado Salad, Citrus Vinaigrette<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The restaurant landscape in the Cannery Row district is a popular draw, though my friend Sandy is of the opinion that most of its eateries are touristy and commercial.\u00a0 Sure enough, among the several dozen restaurants in the area are such national chains as Johnny Rockets, Dippin’ Dots, Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory and the Bubba Gump Shrimp Company (the first one in America, by the way).\u00a0 Sadly, but not surprisingly, those restaurants are packed (sardine tight, you might say). \u00a0 Savvy diners visit the fine dining and seafood establishments on Cannery Row for a more authentic, more delicious dining experience.<\/span><\/p>\n

One of the best seaside restaurants both for ocean views and the bounty of the sea is Schooners Coastal Kitchen & Bar,\u00a0 at the only Forbes four-star-awarded Monterrey Plaza Hotel & Spa<\/a>.\u00a0 Schooners is perched dramatically over the Monterey Bay where diners will enjoy the gentle sounds of the undulating surf; the fresh, salty fragrance of sea air; the playfulness of\u00a0sea otters drifting in kelp forests and a Mediterranean ambiance\u00a0 accompanied by personalized service.\u00a0 The views and the experience are unparalleled.\u00a0 So,\u00a0 too, is an innovative menu that showcases a variety of seafood–both raw and cooked.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Schooners’ Coastal Clam Chowder: Baby Clams, Sherry, Potatoes, Cream Served in Freshly Baked Sourdough Bread<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

All seafood served at Schooners is compliant with the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s “Seafood Watch Guide” designed to raise consumer awareness about the importance of purchasing sustainable seafood.\u00a0 Not only does the restaurant celebrate conscious dining and high quality, sustainable seafood, it educates the dining public by\u00a0 indicating the origin and catching method on the menu.\u00a0 The menu is divided into such categories\u00a0 as “In the Raw,” “Chowders & Stews,” “Fish Stories,” and “Tails to Share,” when plates are portioned to be shared for two or more.<\/span><\/p>\n

The pride of restaurants throughout the California coast is the Dungeness crab, which are fresh and abundant thanks to sustainable harvesting practices.\u00a0 Californians are as proud of the Dungeness crab as Baltimore area citizenry are of their fabled Chesapeake Bay blue crabs.\u00a0 One of my dreams is to participate as a judge in a crab cake throw-down between the aforementioned crustaceans.\u00a0 The Pacific Dungeness Crab Cake<\/em> at Schooners would make a good representative of the left coast’s best.\u00a0 This is an excellent crab cake.\u00a0 It’s thick and large with a preponderance of crab and a bare minimum of binder.\u00a0 Complementing the smooth, delicate flavor of crab is an accompanying corn and avocado salad with a tart-sweet citrus vinaigrette.\u00a0 It’s wholly unnecessary, but quite good.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Fish Tacos: Grilled Fish, cabbage, Lime, Salsa, Avocado, Fresh Corn-Flour Tortillas<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When it comes to bi-coastal seafood, it’s not only crab cakes which are prepared par excellence.\u00a0 Between the clam chowder at my former home in the Boston area and the clam chowder in the San Francisco area, it’s a virtual toss-up as to which is the very best.\u00a0 Both are outstanding!\u00a0 In the Boston area, the preferred accompaniment are oyster crackers while in the San Francisco area, clam chowder is often served in hollowed-out sourdough bowls.\u00a0 The latter option is irresistible, especially if you learn how to scrape the sides of the sourdough bowl so as to have just a bit of bread with each spoonful of soup.\u00a0 Schooners’ Coastal Clam Chowder<\/em> showcases baby clams, sherry, potatoes and cream served in freshly baked sourdough.\u00a0 The proportion of sherry to cream is especially delicious, providing interesting flavor notes.<\/span><\/p>\n

While fish tacos are much more closely associated with San Diego where they’re regarded as perhaps the city’s top delicacy, you can find decent fish tacos throughout the Golden State.\u00a0 Schooners’ rendition starts on a canvas of fresh corn-flour tortillas into which are nestled grilled fish, cabbage and avocados with a salsa on the side.\u00a0 The cabbage is tinged with pleasantly piquant jalape\u00f1os.\u00a0 The grilled fish is wonderfully fresh and flavorful, the avocados unctuous and buttery.\u00a0 Squeeze a little bit of lime and spoon in a little salsa and you’ve got an excellent, dare I say, San Diego worthy fish taco.\u00a0 Three per order are served and they’ll go fast.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Seafood Salad: Seared Ahi Tuna, Shrimp, Crab, Endive, Mango, Avocado, Mango Sauce<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Land meets sea in a bountiful seafood salad<\/em>, a delicious melange of complementary and contrasting flavors which meld into a surprisingly fresh and delicious plate.\u00a0 Easily large enough for two, you’ll find a veritable cornucopia of ingredients: endive leaves stuffed with shredded crab, sliced mango, buttery avocado, heirloom cherry tomatoes (yellow and orange), red cherry tomatoes, peeled shrimp and pepper crust rimmed ahi tuna.\u00a0 The salad is served with a mango sauce as thick as mayonnaise and a light citrus vinaigrette.\u00a0 The contrasting flavors played the most delicious notes on our taste buds: tangy-sweet mango with sea salty ahi and especially the astringency of endive with the sweet-brininess of the crab.<\/span><\/p>\n

Desserts seem to taste just a bit sweeter at seaside, especially if you opt for the Tropical Sabayon ((a cousin of the light, egg-based Italian dessert zabaglione, the very best of which we’ve ever had being at Il Piato<\/a> in Santa Fe).\u00a0 Though a bit less frothy and lighter than its Italian cousin, this honey-infused custard is quite good.\u00a0 The showcase, however, is the fruits and berries–mango broiled to the point of near caramelization, pineapple and berries (strawberries, blackberries, blueberries).\u00a0 To frosted cookies, much denser than the sugared donuts they resemble, are the proverbial topping you can’t top.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Tropical Sabayon: Broiled Mango, Pineapple, Berries, Marshall’s Honey Sabayon<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The impeccable service at Schooners also served to remind me of my perhaps ill-fated decision several decades ago when I opted out of spending much more time in one of California’s paradises than a vacation can afford.<\/span><\/p>\n

Schooners Coastal Kitchen & Bar<\/strong>
\n400 Cannery Row \"Map.965d171\"<\/a>
\nMonterey, California<\/strong>
\n(831) 372-2628
\nWeb Site<\/strong><\/a>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 17 July 2012
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 1
\nRATING<\/strong>: N\/R
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$ – $$$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Pacific Dungeness Crab Cake, Schooners’ Coastal Clam Chowder, Seafood Salad, Fish Tacos, Tropical Sabayon<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Cannery Row in Monterey in California is a poem, a stink, a grating noise, a quality of light, a tone, a habit, a nostalgia, a dream.\u201d ~John Steinbeck Cannery Row, 1945 During basic military training in the Air Force, several of us who could speak multiple languages were asked to take the Defense Language Aptitude Battery (DLAB), the test the military services use to measure aptitude to learn a foreign language.\u00a0 Fewer than five percent of people who take (or retake) the DLAB pass it.\u00a0 Somehow I managed a high score and was extended an opportunity to attend the Defense Language Institute Foreign Language Center at the Presidio of Monterey.\u00a0\u00a0 My response, one borne of ignorance and stupidity, was “I…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":46938,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[46,5647,18,553],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-16700","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-california","category-rating-n-r","category-seafood","category-across-america"],"yoast_head":"\nSchooners Coastal Kitchen & Bar - 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