{"id":169,"date":"2023-02-27T00:01:15","date_gmt":"2023-02-27T06:01:15","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=169"},"modified":"2026-04-05T14:40:12","modified_gmt":"2026-04-05T20:40:12","slug":"nopalitos-las-cruces-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=169","title":{"rendered":"NOPALITO RESTAURANT – Las Cruces, New Mexico"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Nopalito Restaurant in Las Cruces<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Growing up in rural Northern New Mexico, my siblings and I thought all Mexican food was the same–the way my mom, grandmothers and aunts prepared it (which is to say it was outstanding).\u00a0 At the time New Mexicans hadn’t universally acknowledged that the genesis of our cuisine wasn’t solely Mexico.\u00a0 Back then, only the most savvy culinary historians were crediting Spanish and Native ingredients and preparation techniques as differentiating factors that made New Mexican cuisine unique.\u00a0 It also wasn’t that long ago New Mexicans were spelling our official state vegetable as “chili.” \u00a0 No, that’s not an episode of the Twilight Zone.\u00a0 It’s the way it was just a few decades ago when all three of\u00a0 my sisters matriculated at New Mexico State University.<\/span><\/p>\n

We didn’t know what to think when they’d return home on long weekends and holidays and prepared these strange and different “Mexican” dishes.\u00a0 Sour cream enchiladas?\u00a0\u00a0 Con queso made with muenster cheese?\u00a0 Green chile salsa?\u00a0 Rolled enchiladas?\u00a0 Gorditas?\u00a0 Those “Mexican” restaurants in Las Cruces were either revolutionizing Mexican food or they didn’t know what they were doing.\u00a0 It didn’t take long before we all embraced these new dishes and looked forward to sampling other delights from Southern New Mexico.\u00a0 Among my sisters’ favorite “Mexican” food restaurants were Chope’s<\/a><\/strong> in La Mesa, La Posta<\/strong> <\/a>in Mesilla and Nopalito in Las Cruces.\u00a0 I won’t share which of my sisters also raved about a “fancy steak restaurant<\/em>” called K-Bob’s.\u00a0 Suffice to say when you’re from Penasco, Furr’s Cafeteria is fine dining.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Significant Historical Dates and Events Are Captured on the Foyer Walls<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

On the docket for family visits to Las Cruces were trips to these radical Mexican restaurants, all three of which we came to love as much for the assertiveness of their chile as for their quirkiness.\u00a0 At La Posta’s colorful lobby, for example, we gawked in wonder at the tropical birds and the state’s sole piranha.\u00a0 At Chope’s, we admired the pecan trees en route to the converted family restaurant.\u00a0 Nopalito had its own unique touches.\u00a0 It’s unlikely studying the history inscribed on the foyer walls will get you through\u00a0 History class at New Mexico State, but as a lifelong student of New Mexico history, it was quite intriguing to me.<\/span><\/p>\n

Architecturally (ten bonus points if you know what a nave, narthex and transepts are), Nopalito is unlike any other “Mexican” restaurant in Las Cruces.\u00a0 That’s because it was built in 1920 and served as the Templo Bautista<\/strong> <\/a>until outgrowing its location.\u00a0 By the way, vestiges of the church remain intact in what was the first Spanish Baptist church in Las Cruces.\u00a0 In 1970 when the church decided to move to a larger structure, Jose (J.R.) and Ernestina Gallegos saw it as providence.\u00a0 Not only had they met at the Baptist temple, it was literally “just around the corner” from their original Nopalito restaurant, a small adobe house they had converted to a restaurant and <\/span>launched in 1964.\u00a0 (Note<\/strong>: It’s just coincidence, but Mary & Tito’s<\/strong> <\/a>in Albuquerque also got its start in 1964).\u00a0 From is start, Nopalito was a huge hit among diners jonesing for great “Mexican” cuisine.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Can you tell this structure was once a church?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Nopalito is situated on Mesquite Street over a segment of El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro (Royal Road of the Interior), the historic trail that ran from Mexico City to Santa Fe.\u00a0\u00a0 In 1974, Nopalito expanded, launching a second restaurant at 2605 Missouri, also in Las Cruces.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 It was built by the Gallegos Construction Company.\u00a0 In 2010, the Gallegos family opened the Nopalito Galleria to showcase regional art and provide the community with cultural enrichment through that art.\u00a0 Nopalito, by the way, translates from Spanish to an edible branch of various cacti of the prickly pear cactus family; it is commonly used as a vegetable.
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During our visit to El Paso in February, 2023, my friend Steve Coleman, owner of the highly regarded Steve’s Food Blog<\/strong> <\/a>encouraged us to make a long overdue return visit to Nopalilo which has long been one of his favorite (and most highly rated<\/strong><\/a>) restaurants in Las Cruces. Steve has been visiting the original Nopalito since shortly after its launch in 1964. He’s nearly as familiar with the menu as Nopalito’s chefs. He contends that “the red enchiladas are on par with those in northern New Mexico, except for the fact that the ones here do not come with blue corn tortillas<\/em>.” Obviously his recommendation carries a lot of weight with us.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Chips and a Green Chile Salsa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I first took my Kim to Nopalito in 2004. By then she had lived in New Mexico for nine years and was very well acquainted with the cuisine of Northern New Mexico. She was surprised at just how different–and how similar–the “Mexican” food at Nopalito was from her New Mexican food favorites. By then, the Land of Enchantment had begun to assert itself as a state with its own unique cuisine. Not Tex-Mex, not Mexican, but New Mexican. Despite the signage in front of Nopalito proclaiming it a “Mexican” restaurant, she quickly discerned Nopalito was most assuredly a New Mexican restaurant.<\/span><\/p>\n

As we pulled up to Nopalito nineteen years after my Kim’s first visit, we quickly noted that external signage still indicates the restaurant serves “Mexican Food.”\u00a0 I suspect diners know better.\u00a0 Nopalito remained much as we remembered it.\u00a0 The history lesson on the foyer appears as freshly painted as it had the last time we saw it.\u00a0 In addition to conventional restaurant chair seating, church-goers might opt to sit on one of the pews.\u00a0 Unlike church, you won’t get a sermon.\u00a0 You will, however, get very helpful service and recommendations if you want them.\u00a0 Waitstaff will replenish your coffee faithfully.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Unique Con Queso<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I almost kissed our waitress when she ferried over a basket of chips and two salsas.\u00a0 The green chile salsa<\/strong><\/em>, served heated, is a Nopalito standard.\u00a0 It’s not especially piquant, but it’s got a freshly roasted flavor.\u00a0 It’s so good, beyond sampling the other salsa, you might focus solely on the green chile salsa.\u00a0 My friend Steve notes “Salsa is usually an appetizer but here I find myself continuing to eat it throughout the meal until it is totally consumed (it is a good thing that the chips are worthy of such as good salsa as well)<\/em>.”\u00a0 He’s not kidding.\u00a0 The green chile salsa is addictive.\u00a0 It pairs well with chips that appear to be homemade.\u00a0 These chips have a pronounced corn flavor.\u00a0 They’re thick and crispy, the type of chips that allow for scooping Gil-sized portions of salsa.<\/span><\/p>\n

Despite the salsa, I remembered having really liked Nopalito’s unique con queso<\/strong><\/em>.\u00a0 Unlike most con queso which tends to be a mix of green chile, evaporated milk and Monterrey or Cheddar (or even (Heaven forbid) Velveeta), Nopalito’s version is akin to a bowl of green chile blanketed by a molten sheet of Muenster cheese.\u00a0 Yes, Muenster!\u00a0 I’ve long contended that Las Cruces area New Mexican restaurants serve the very best con queso in the state.\u00a0 If you need proof, visit Nopalito and La Posta.\u00a0 I’ve established just how good the green chile salsa is.\u00a0 The con queso may be even better.\u00a0 As with the salsa, the green chile isn’t especially piquant, but it’s delicious…and Muenster, with its Swiss cheese-like flavor, makes for a surprisingly good change.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Christmas Style Enchiladas with Beans and Rice<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As if a bowl of Nopalito’s superb con queso isn’t enough, the accompanying chips also include a large baked corn tortilla fashioned into a “bowl” into which refried beans topped with shredded cheese are nestled.\u00a0 The refried beans are of Mary & Tito’s quality which means they rank with the very best in the state.\u00a0 This is a sentiment shared by my friend Steve.\u00a0 As with all truly great refried beans, these have the look, smell, and taste of homemade refried beans.\u00a0 That likely means lard was used in their preparation.\u00a0 At any regard, a bowl of these beans are a must during any visit to Nopalito.<\/span><\/p>\n

In his review, Steve rhapsodizes poetic about the red chile enchiladas: “The Red Enchiladas are ones that I would rate as among the best in New Mexico, at least in terms of the chile. I think this chile has the minimum amount of additives for a true chile flavor, and Nopalito left me with one of the most pleasant chile aftertastes in my mouth that I have ever experienced<\/em>.”\u00a0 Nopalito is a rarity in that it serves enchiladas either rolled or stacked.\u00a0 It’s your preference.\u00a0 They’re served with both beans and rice.\u00a0 “The Works” is an enchilada with red and green chile, sour cream and a fried egg and beef or chicken.\u00a0 Enchiladas are available with cheese, beef or chicken.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Flautas with Guacamole and Sour Cream<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

My choice (of course) was for stacked enchiladas<\/strong><\/em>, the way most Northern New Mexicans prepare them at home.\u00a0 I asked for both red and green chile and was surprised that our server referred to that choice as “Christmas.”\u00a0\u00a0 Years ago, that term wasn’t as common in Southern New Mexico as it was up North (at least that was my experience).\u00a0 These enchiladas were superb, easily among the very best in the state.\u00a0 As Steve proclaims, the red chile left me with “one of the most pleasant chile aftertastes in my mouth that I have ever experienced<\/em>.”\u00a0\u00a0 That aftertaste wasn’t necessarily resultant from piquancy.\u00a0 It was on account of the earthy, sweet, almost fruity flavor, a harmony of flavors in my mouth.\u00a0 A fried egg (over easy) was creamy and smooth with the yolk’s runniness lending a pleasant mouthfeel.\u00a0 There was enough chile to cover the refried beans, but if I were a smarter person I would have opted for a second serving of beans and no rice (not that it was bad).<\/span><\/p>\n

My Kim may be the most unlucky person in New Mexico.\u00a0 A recent prescription change has made anything stronger than ketchup too piquant for her to enjoy.\u00a0 Thankfully most New Mexican restaurants do offer some entrees sans chile.\u00a0 One of Nopalito’s offerings with no chile is the flauta plate<\/strong> <\/em>(your choice of beef or chicken, avocado or (and) sour cream).\u00a0 Flautas, which translate from Spanish to flutes, are made from tortillas that are filled then rolled up and fried. The result: a long, thin, flute-shaped roll that\u2019s extra-crispy and bursting with a savory, spiced filling.\u00a0 They’re not as common in Northern New Mexico as they are in the Las Cruces area.\u00a0 Maybe they should be.\u00a0 They’re especially good when dipped into the creamy, rich guacamole.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Sopaipillas<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Desserts include a scoop of ice cream, fried ice cream or sopaipillas<\/strong> <\/em>(plain or cinnamon).\u00a0 The sopapiillas are classic, deep-fried deliciousness.\u00a0 Puffed up like a golden pillow, they form a perfect repository for honey.\u00a0 Thankfully Nopalito serves the real thing not honey-flavored syrup.<\/span><\/p>\n

Nopalito ranks with the very best New Mexican restaurants in the Land of Enchantment.\u00a0 Outstanding red and green chile are two of the main reasons, but frankly, there isn’t anything at Nopalito you won’t love.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

NOPALITO RESTAURANT<\/strong>
\n310 South Mesquite
\nLas Cruces, New Mexico<\/strong>
\n(575) 524-0003
\nWebsite<\/strong><\/a> | Facebook<\/strong><\/a>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 27 February 2023
\n1st VISIT<\/strong>: 7 March 2004
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 2
\nRATING<\/strong>: Outstanding<\/strong><\/span>\u2013A stand-out; delivers a memorable dining experience through a harmonious blend of exceptional food, attentive service, and consistent quality
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Pork Chops, Sour Cream Enchiladas, Ground Beef Enchiladas, Salsa and Chips, Con Queso and Chips, Flautas, Sopaipillas<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Growing up in rural Northern New Mexico, my siblings and I thought all Mexican food was the same–the way my mom, grandmothers and aunts prepared it (which is to say it was outstanding).\u00a0 At the time New Mexicans hadn’t universally acknowledged that the genesis of our cuisine wasn’t solely Mexico.\u00a0 Back then, only the most savvy culinary historians were crediting Spanish and Native ingredients and preparation techniques as differentiating factors that made New Mexican cuisine unique.\u00a0 It also wasn’t that long ago New Mexicans were spelling our official state vegetable as “chili.” \u00a0 No, that’s not an episode of the Twilight Zone.\u00a0 It’s the way it was just a few decades ago when all three of\u00a0 my sisters matriculated at…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":63101,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3568,112,141,581,561],"tags":[2777,2779,2781,2142,856,1436,2780,2776,2778,2783,1001,1339,994,2782],"class_list":["post-169","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-las-cruces","category-new-mexican","category-new-mexico","category-new-mexico-culinary-treasures","category-rating-outstanding","tag-2777","tag-baptist-church","tag-chile-con-queso","tag-chips","tag-enchiladas","tag-flautas","tag-green-chile-salsa","tag-jose-gallegos","tag-las-cruces-history","tag-muenster-cheese","tag-real-honey","tag-red-and-green-chile","tag-sopaipillas","tag-sour-cream-enchiladas"],"yoast_head":"\nNOPALITO RESTAURANT - 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Please take a few minutes to tell me what you think. 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