{"id":267,"date":"2008-03-26T15:25:26","date_gmt":"2008-03-26T14:25:26","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=267"},"modified":"2026-04-03T12:11:22","modified_gmt":"2026-04-03T18:11:22","slug":"el-modelo-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=267","title":{"rendered":"El Modelo – Albuquerque, New Mexico"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
\"\"
El Modelo, a Duke City Landmark<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Growing up in the 60s in a bucolic village in Northern New Mexico, we had no idea about such things as political correctness and multi-culturalism. It would be decades before the ascendency of the “woke” movement.\u00a0\u00a0My friends included descendents of Montezuma, scions of the Spanish explorers, Native Americans from a nearby Pueblo and even a few “white” kids.\u00a0 None of us really thought about things like “inclusion” and “diversity.”\u00a0 We lived it! Being kids, there was naturally a lot of good-natured name-calling and teasing, but even when tempers flared, I can’t recall racial stereotype-based derogatory terms ever used in anger.\u00a0 We thought nothing of teasing the “rich” white kids about their “white as them” Rainbo bread sandwiches and they retorted in kind with insults about the “poor” kids and their chicharones and chile engorged tortillas.<\/p>\n

We were teased that “Mexican” (then a collective term for all Hispanics) children received tamales for Christmas so they would have something to open on Christmas morning.\u00a0 Rather than think it offensive and racist, we laughed and tried to one-up with something better. It wasn’t until years later that we found out we were supposed to be offended by race-based stereotypes and insults.\u00a0 It brought to a disappointing crush, the innocence of our childhood. Now 39 years old, I’m still not offended by what others might perceive as derrogatory. Instead I worry that America now finds virtually everything so offensive that we’ve lost our ability to laugh at ourselves.<\/p>\n

\"El
El Modelo’s ladies hard at work in the background<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Gustavo Arellano has the right idea.\u00a0 The brilliant and hilarious author of Ask A Mexican<\/em>, a widely syndicated alternative newspaper column, confronts the “bogeymen of racism, xenophobia, and ignorance<\/em>” with humor. In his weekly column, he defeats stereotypes and those who wield them by using deprecatory wit to exaggerate those stereotypes to the point of the ridiculous. About unwrapping tamales on Christmas he writes “the humble masa is a Mexican’s most valuable weapon come Navidad–it is our fruitcake, a fail-safe, universal present that also functions as an edible visa<\/em>.”<\/p>\n

\"Making<\/a>
Making tamales at El Modelo (courtesy of Sergio Salvador)<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In New Mexico, perhaps no one makes tamales as revered as El Modelo, a restaurant which has been making them since 1929.\u00a0 The terms “institution” and “local legend” are bandied about too easily, but for El Modelo, those terms fit. Today El Modelo makes about 1,000 tamales a day and it isn’t just Mexican kids who unwrap them.\u00a0 Duke City residents are absolutely enamored of El Modelo’s tamales, particularly around Christmas season when we buy them by the dozens.<\/p>\n

Compared to tamales sold at other restaurants, these are tamales on steroids.\u00a0 They are engorged with twice (maybe thrice) the pork as tamales at just about every other dining establishment which serves them.\u00a0 The masa is just thick enough to contain the moist shards of shredded pork and it is imbued with the flavor of fresh corn.\u00a0 The pork is very well seasoned (I discerned Mexican oregano, salt and garlic with little (if any) cumin) and about medium on the piquancy scale.\u00a0\u00a0 One tamale from El Modelo is a meal, two is an indulgence and three will put you in the category of competitive eaters.<\/p>\n

\"Carne
Carne adovada burrito<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

El Modelo opened in April, 1929 in a three-room home owned by Carmen Garcia who converted one room of the house to a “factory” in which she made tortillas by hand.\u00a0 She rose before the roosters (2AM) and had them ready to sell by breakfast. Selling tortillas proved so profitable that the enterprising Mrs. Garcia hired neighbor Petra Vargas to make tamales.\u00a0 Petra eventually taught the entire Garcia clan the art of making tamales. By 1947, the business had outgrown the one-room operation so Carmen purchased two other homes, moved her family and built the present-day El Modelo where the three-room house once stood.<\/p>\n

Carmen’s eldest son Salvador assisted his mother with the expansion and construction of the new building.\u00a0 He oversaw the restaurant’s day-to-day operations until 1985 when El Modelo was sold to Virginia Chittim and Hector Mendoza who jointly ran it until April 2003.\u00a0 Today Virginia owns and operates the local landmark.<\/p>\n

\"Combination
Combination Plate #1<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

El Modelo is an experience!\u00a0 Long lines snake out the door during much of the day as hungry patrons line up to place their orders (the smart ones will call in their orders in advance).\u00a0 Exclusively a take-out operation, El Modelo has an extensive menu of New Mexican favorites as well as foods for sale by the pint or quart. As you’re in line, take in the assembly line in the back kitchen where several ladies ply their craft in churning out large quantities of authentic New Mexican fare.\u00a0 The back kitchen is like a warehouse with large ingredient-filled bags and oversized pots and pans.<\/p>\n

Take-out orders are filled in plain Styrofoam containers that bulge at the seams with their content.\u00a0 You’ll be giddy with anticipation as you head to your car or one of the picnic tables on the complex.\u00a0 There’s some heavy eating to do when you open those Styrofoam containers. The container might include the #1 Mexican Plate<\/em> which includes a treasure trove of New Mexican favorites: tamale, tostado, enchilada, refried beans, chile, chorizo sauce, a spare rib, chips and a sopaipilla.\u00a0 The plate is garnished with lettuce.<\/p>\n

\"Trays<\/a>
Trays of tamales at El Modelo (Courtesy of Sergio Salvador)<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Your challenge will be to determine what to “attack” first in this inviting family-sized plate.\u00a0 Every item beckons with a chile endorsed siren’s call. If you eat the chips first, you can get right to the heart of the matter–the tamale and enchilada.\u00a0 Eat the tostada first and you’ll uncover the refried beans and Spanish rice.\u00a0 Better still, place the chips and tostada on the lid of the Styrofoam container while you address the other items.<\/p>\n

The highlight of this plate is most definitely the tamale.\u00a0 It’s not the humongous log you’d get had you ordered a tamale plate, but it’s every bit as flavorful. The tostada is topped with cheese and a “chorizo sauce” that isn’t nearly as good as El Modelo’s standard red chile.\u00a0 The chile is about medium on the piquancy scale, not nearly as scalding as it once was.\u00a0 It’s a flavorful, rich red chile.<\/p>\n

\"Super-sized
Super-sized sopaipillas<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

El Modelo’s menu includes several overstuffed burritos, all of which are engorged with ingredients and imbued with deliciousness.\u00a0 The carne adovada burrito (pictured above) can’t be called hand-held.\u00a0 Hands-held would be more like it.\u00a0 It’s bigger, by far, than most hand-held burritos and takes a back seat to none of them when it comes to flavor. Even the sopaipillas are super-sized.\u00a0 They’re not especially puffy and might be mistaken for misshapen Indian fried bread.\u00a0 The sopaipillas are served with real honey, albeit in packets, not the honey-flavored syrup too many New Mexican restaurants serve.<\/p>\n

El Modelo truly is an Albuquerque institution with a rare staying-power.\u00a0 It would come as no surprise to see it going strong eighty years from now.<\/p>\n

El Modelo
\n<\/strong>1715 Second Street, S.W.
\nAlbuquerque, NM<\/strong>
\n(505) 242-1843
\nWebsite<\/strong><\/a> | Facebook<\/strong><\/a>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 26 March 2008
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 4
\nRATING<\/strong>: Very Good<\/span>\u00a0<\/strong>\u2013\u00a0Good to very good food; generally solid; delivers consistent quality, strong technique, and a comfortable, enjoyable dining experience
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>:\u00a0Tamales, Carne Adovada Burrito, Combination Plate #1<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Growing up in the 60s in a bucolic village in Northern New Mexico, we had no idea about such things as political correctness and multi-culturalism. It would be decades before the ascendency of the “woke” movement.\u00a0\u00a0My friends included descendents of Montezuma, scions of the Spanish explorers, Native Americans from a nearby Pueblo and even a few “white” kids.\u00a0 None of us really thought about things like “inclusion” and “diversity.”\u00a0 We lived it! Being kids, there was naturally a lot of good-natured name-calling and teasing, but even when tempers flared, I can’t recall racial stereotype-based derogatory terms ever used in anger.\u00a0 We thought nothing of teasing the “rich” white kids about their “white as them” Rainbo bread sandwiches and they retorted…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5903,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,57,581,5631],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-267","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-mexican","category-new-mexico-culinary-treasures","category-very-good"],"yoast_head":"\nEl Modelo - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=267\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"El Modelo - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Growing up in the 60s in a bucolic village in Northern New Mexico, we had no idea about such things as political correctness and multi-culturalism. It would be decades before the ascendency of the “woke” movement.\u00a0\u00a0My friends included descendents of Montezuma, scions of the Spanish explorers, Native Americans from a nearby Pueblo and even a few “white” kids.\u00a0 None of us really thought about things like “inclusion” and “diversity.”\u00a0 We lived it! Being kids, there was naturally a lot of good-natured name-calling and teasing, but even when tempers flared, I can’t recall racial stereotype-based derogatory terms ever used in anger.\u00a0 We thought nothing of teasing the “rich” white kids about their “white as them” Rainbo bread sandwiches and they retorted…\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=267\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:author\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/nmgastronome\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2008-03-26T14:25:26+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2026-04-03T18:11:22+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"http:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/03\/ModeloSal01.gif\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"299\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"450\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/gif\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Gil Garduno\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Gil Garduno\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"8 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=267#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=267\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Gil Garduno\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/423b9c3eeeb199e43ab4f1f584fa67bf\"},\"headline\":\"El Modelo – Albuquerque, New Mexico\",\"datePublished\":\"2008-03-26T14:25:26+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2026-04-03T18:11:22+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=267\"},\"wordCount\":1287,\"commentCount\":14,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=267#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2008\\\/03\\\/ModeloSal01.gif\",\"articleSection\":[\"Albuquerque\",\"Mexican\",\"New Mexico Culinary Treasures Trail\",\"Rating: Very Good\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=267#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=267\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=267\",\"name\":\"El Modelo - 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