{"id":272,"date":"2009-06-28T16:18:02","date_gmt":"2009-06-28T22:18:02","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=272"},"modified":"2018-07-22T10:13:01","modified_gmt":"2018-07-22T16:13:01","slug":"evergreen-buffet-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=272","title":{"rendered":"Evergreen Buffet – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Evergreen
Evergreen Buffet on Menaul<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

America held hostage!\u00a0 That was the aptly named title of an ABC late-night news program anchored by Ted Koppel from November, 1979 through January 20, 2001.\u00a0 For 444 days, the mighty United States of America was indeed paralyzed while 52 Americans were held hostage–tied and blindfolded–in the U.S. Embassy in Iran.\u00a0 The captors were student revolutionaries incensed at the United States decision to admit Iran’s deposed Shah for medical treatment.<\/span><\/p>\n

The moment Ronald Reagan took the oath of office, those hostages were released.\u00a0 An adoring nation welcomed the returning heroes, lavishing them with gifts and accolades.\u00a0 Among the gifts was a tiny box from Major League Baseball commissioner Bowie Kuhn.\u00a0 Within that box was a lifetime pass to any major or minor league baseball game.<\/span><\/p>\n

Upon hearing of this, then ABC college football analyst and avowed baseball hater, the irascible Beano Cook remarked, “haven’t they suffered enough<\/em>?”<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Several
Several buffet stations feature a treasure trove of buffet items.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Beano’s sentiment is my first reaction whenever I hear of a new Chinese buffet restaurant launching in Albuquerque.\u00a0 In truth, however, Chinese buffet restaurants are so well patronized in the Duke City that the only suffering that occurs is after the meal.\u00a0 That’s when gastroenterological distress sets in which prompts diners to lament “I can’t believe I ate the whole thing.”<\/span><\/p>\n

Chinese buffets–or buffets of any type, for that matter–are the arena in which ordinary Americans do their best to emulate the behavior of gurgitators, the competitive eaters who can eat more in one seating than most of us can eat in a week.\u00a0 It’s where belts are loosened, fabric is stretched and civility (especially table manners) goes out the window.<\/span><\/p>\n

Bruce Balto, a much traveled fellow gastronome has commiserated with me on the state of Chinese buffets in the Duke City so it was a surprise when he told me of a Chinese buffet restaurant that was “overall not too bad, and in some areas, a real stand-out.” \u00a0He emphasized that “if you can make your way past the gauntlet of the mediocrities, there are some unusual delights to be had there.”\u00a0\u00a0Considering Bruce’s sophisticated palate, that’s the equivalent of a resounding recommendation.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

The restaurant to which he referred is the Evergreen Buffet on the northwest corner of Menaul and Juan Tabo.\u00a0 The inaugural Albuquerque version of the Evergreen Buffet opened in late 2003 at the site of the former Marie Callendar’s on Eubank’s Promenade Shopping Center but closed within months.\u00a0 Evergreen IV opened shortly thereafter on Menaul.\u00a0 Evergreen is owned by Wei and Yong Lu who also own two Evergreen restaurants in New York.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"The
The buffet features several seafood items<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Although the Evergreen Buffet has a full-service menu, it’s the 150-item daily buffet that seems to ensnare most of the restaurant’s traffic.<\/span><\/p>\n

The daily buffet features shrimp, beef, chicken, pork, fish, fried dumplings, BBQ boneless spareribs, Lo Mein, fried rice, soup, salad bar, ice cream, fresh fruit, sushi and several desserts.<\/span><\/p>\n

The dinner buffet (also served all day Sunday) includes New Zealand green mussels, oysters, crab legs, clams, mussels, stir-fried shrimp, fried shrimp, “Happy Family” and many other items, including several dim sum treats. <\/span><\/p>\n

For Sinophobes and unacculturated Americans, the buffet also includes such American standards as pizza, stuffed potato skins, a Westernized salad bar, garlic bread and a sprawling dessert bar featuring cheesecake, peanut brittle and a standard at every Chinese buffet in the universe–chocolate pudding. \u00a0 There’s also plenty of the\u00a0mediocrity and boring \u201csameness\u201d that plagues many of New Mexico\u2019s Chinese restaurants\u2013a homogeneity my discerning friend Bill Resnik\u00a0refers to as \u201ccopycat menus full of candied, fried and breaded mystery meats that all taste the same.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n

A sushi stations includes several standards while a Mongolian barbecue station allows you to select from among several raw meat items and vegetables for a custom stir-fry creation prepared just for you in a large Teppan grill.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Alaskan
Alaskan King Crab on the Sunday buffet<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Where the Evergreen Buffet surpasses its brethren is in its seafood offerings.\u00a0 The cost of the buffet is about half of what you’d pay elsewhere to have Alaskan King Crab alone.\u00a0 At Evergreen you can feast on that sweet, succulent decapod crustacean to your heart’s content. <\/span><\/p>\n

Characteristic of King crab, the meat extracted from the legs is somewhat stringy (maybe courtesy of the scrawny crab legs) though you will find more firm and rich meat on the shoulder.\u00a0 Evergreen provides warm butter though not with a canned heat source as in many seafood restaurants.<\/span><\/p>\n

There are several types of fish on the buffet including halibut in a butter sauce.\u00a0 Shrimp offerings include the usual peel-and-eat variety as well as a salt and pepper shrimp served round-eye style (a Bill Resnik<\/span><\/a> aphorism) which means they’ve been beheaded so you don’t have to look into those dreamy shrimp eyes. <\/span><\/p>\n

If you’re craving Cajun cooking, the buffet even serves crawfish, a New Orleans delicacy.\u00a0 The salad bar includes a colorful octopus salad, but if you’re not accustomed to seeing octopus that hasn’t been battered and deep-fried, it might not be something to which you’d gravitate.<\/span><\/p>\n

The dim sum selection isn’t especially bountiful, but it does include several kinds of dumplings and steamed rolls, some of which are stand-outs.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Sushi<\/span><\/p>\n

One of my favorite non-Chinese items on the buffet is the kimchee, a fiery Korean staple heavily seasoned with chile and garlic.\u00a0 Evergreen’s version is not dumbed down for Western tastes which makes it appealing to a volcano-eater like me.<\/span><\/p>\n

Aside from the ubiquitous chocolate pudding, one of the things that seems to define Chinese buffets is items which cool down considerably by the time you get them to your table–despite the fact that they’ve been under heat lamps for who knows how long. <\/span><\/p>\n

That didn’t seem to be the case at Evergreen where buffet items are turned around regularly.\u00a0 In the case of a few dim sum items, the kitchen could barely keep up with customer demand.<\/span><\/p>\n

Evergreen Buffet was surprisingly good (or at least a few items on the buffet were)–maybe not good enough to make me a regular, but if I am going to dine at a Chinese buffet, this will be the one.<\/span><\/p>\n

Evergreen Buffet<\/span><\/strong><\/span>
\n11001 Menaul, N.E.
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

LATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 28 June 2009
\n1st VISIT<\/strong>: \u00a028 October 2007
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 2
\nRATING<\/strong>: 14
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$ – $$$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: King Crab Legs, Dim Sum<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

America held hostage!\u00a0 That was the aptly named title of an ABC late-night news program anchored by Ted Koppel from November, 1979 through January 20, 2001.\u00a0 For 444 days, the mighty United States of America was indeed paralyzed while 52 Americans were held hostage–tied and blindfolded–in the U.S. Embassy in Iran.\u00a0 The captors were student revolutionaries incensed at the United States decision to admit Iran’s deposed Shah for medical treatment. The moment Ronald Reagan took the oath of office, those hostages were released.\u00a0 An adoring nation welcomed the returning heroes, lavishing them with gifts and accolades.\u00a0 Among the gifts was a tiny box from Major League Baseball commissioner Bowie Kuhn.\u00a0 Within that box was a lifetime pass to any major…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":48653,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,15,33,582,262],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-272","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-buffet","category-chinese","category-closed-in-2011","category-closed"],"yoast_head":"\nEvergreen Buffet - Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED) - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=272\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Evergreen Buffet - Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED) - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"America held hostage!\u00a0 That was the aptly named title of an ABC late-night news program anchored by Ted Koppel from November, 1979 through January 20, 2001.\u00a0 For 444 days, the mighty United States of America was indeed paralyzed while 52 Americans were held hostage–tied and blindfolded–in the U.S. Embassy in Iran.\u00a0 The captors were student revolutionaries incensed at the United States decision to admit Iran’s deposed Shah for medical treatment. 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