{"id":296,"date":"2017-03-24T03:37:09","date_gmt":"2017-03-24T09:37:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=296"},"modified":"2026-04-04T13:54:39","modified_gmt":"2026-04-04T19:54:39","slug":"huong-thao-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=296","title":{"rendered":"Huong Thao – Albuquerque, New Mexico"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Huong Thao Vietnamese Restaurant on Juan Tabo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In the year 2000 (ancient history by restaurant standards) when the Duke City had only a handful of Vietnamese restaurants, only one was listed on Zagat Survey\u2019s Millennium Edition of the top restaurants in the Southwest. That restaurant was Huong Thao which was widely regarded at the time as perhaps the city\u2019s very best Vietnamese dining establishment. Zagat Survey accorded Huong Thao a rating of \u201c24\u201d which categorized it as \u201cvery good to excellent.\u201d The restaurant was praised for its \u201cdelicious traditional foods\u201d and was singled out for its \u201cno-puff\u201d policies back when smoking was still allowed in Albuquerque dining establishments. <\/span><\/p>\n

In 2002, Huong Thao eked out a win over other highly-regarded Vietnamese restaurants in La Cocinita magazine\u2019s (defunct) 2002 second annual critic\u2019s choice awards. Garnering praise from an august body of panelists were the \u201cherb-filled spring rolls\u201d and \u201coh-so-crispy grilled pork.\u201d Today, Huong Thao is a venerable presence, an elder statesperson among a phalanx of very good to outstanding Vietnamese restaurants throughout the Duke City. It remains a formidable favorite to this day because it\u2019s not only retained loyal patrons, it\u2019s cultivated new aficionados.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Huong Thao’s Dining Room<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

From the very beginning, Huong Thao has held a reputation as a Vegan-friendly restaurant, earning accolades throughout the 1990s and beyond from the Vegetarian Society of New Mexico for its \u201cgreat food\u201d and \u201cmany vegetarian options.\u201d Although the word \u201cHuong\u201d translates from Vietnamese to \u201cscent of the flower\u201d and \u201cThao\u201d translates to \u201cherbal,\u201d the restaurant was actually named for its founder. Though she long ago sold her eponymous restaurant, the fragrant bouquets which always wafted from Huong Thao\u2019s kitchen remain part and parcel of the restaurant experience. Huong Thao (the restaurant\u2019s founder, not the restaurant) continues to perform fragrant feats of culinary magic, albeit at her son Bill\u2019s restaurant An Hy Quan<\/strong><\/a>. Not surprisingly, An Hy Quan is not only the city\u2019s very best Vietnamese vegetarian restaurants, but one of its best restaurants of any genre.<\/span><\/p>\n

Over the years, our visits to Huong Thao have been infrequent, in part because this Northeast Heights restaurant is the furthest east from our home of any Vietnamese restaurant in Albuquerque. My return visit in March, 2017, after an eleven year absence sure makes me wish I\u2019d listened to my friend and fellow epicurean Jim Millington who long ago urged me to return. My flimsy excuse had been that Huong Thao had begun offering sushi (which no Vietnamese restaurant should ever do), but Jim also assured me the restaurant\u2019s sole focus had also long ago returned to its Vietnamese cuisine. If there is one excuse that only partially absolves my transgression of not having visited sooner, it\u2019s that Huong Thao does not have a street (Juan Tabo) facing presence and is set back in a nondescript shopping center.<\/span><\/p>\n

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New Mexico Spring Roll<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Unlike several other Vietnamese restaurants in the city, Huong Thao\u2019s menu isn\u2019t a veritable compendium of all possible Vietnamese deliciousness. With fewer than sixty appetizers and entrees, its menu is roughly half the size of the menu at some restaurants. Study the menu and you\u2019ll be hard-pressed to find any of your favorites absent. In fact, the menu offers several items not widely seen in the Duke City. The appetizer menu, for example, includes an asparagus and crab meat soup. Among unique entr\u00e9e offerings are stir-fried curry, shaken beef and mung bean crepes. The menu is a delight to peruse, offering something for everyone who loves Vietnamese cuisine.<\/span><\/p>\n

22 March 2017<\/strong>: When you do visit Huong Thao, there\u2019s really no excuse for not having the restaurant\u2019s amazing spring rolls. After all these years, these zeppelin-sized spring rolls are still the biggest (and among the very best) in the city\u2013two rice paper rolls per order engorged with pork (and or shrimp and tofu), noodles and fresh vegetables. New Mexicans, of course, will order the New Mexico Spring Roll<\/strong> <\/em>(green chile and avocado with chicken, tofu or shrimp). This is an idea whose time has come, further confirmation that green chile improves the flavor of everything it touches. The green chile isn\u2019t especially piquant, but it has a nice roasted flavor. Fresh avocado and cilantro lend the essence of freshness. The accompanying fish sauce is a bit on the sweet side, but that\u2019s easily remedied with a liberal application of the chili sauce on your table.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Boneless Stuffed Chicken Wings<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

24 March 2017<\/strong>: Despite pretty obvious limitations\u2014they\u2019re messy, they don\u2019t give you a lot of meat and they\u2019re so small it takes a lot of them to put a dent on your appetite\u2014chicken wings have become a veritable culinary institution in America. In many cases, however, the only difference between the chicken wing at one eatery and another is the sauce with which they\u2019re served. There\u2019s not much originality in the concept. Some Vietnamese and Thai restaurants have an answer to the homogeneity of the ubiquitous chicken wing\u2014stuff it. <\/span><\/p>\n

Huong Thao\u2019s boneless stuffed chicken wings<\/strong><\/em> are terrific, the complete antithesis of the limitations listed above. Somehow, the chef has managed to debone a chicken wing; stuff it with ground pork, clear noodles and mushrooms; and deep-fry it. Frankly, it resembles a small fried game hen, pumped up like a football (no Tom Brady jokes here) and fried to a crispy, golden brown. The stuffing is addictive with pungent, earthy notes that complement the crispy chicken skin. The accompanying fish sauce is wholly unnecessary.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Spicy Beef Soup (Bun Ho Hue)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

22 March 2017<\/strong>: My very favorite entr\u00e9e is the Hue-style spicy beef soup<\/strong> <\/em>(bun bo Hue), the spicier, heartier, livelier, more flavorful cousin to pho. It\u2019s the best (and only) reason to eschew pho. Huong Thao\u2019s rendition is, by far, the \u201cbeefiest,” most beef-concentrated version of Hue-style soup I\u2019ve ever had. Some of that is courtesy of the beef, meatloaf, tendon and pork hock swimming around in the aromatic beef stock, but look closer and you\u2019ll see lots of the fatty globules which characterize soup that starts with beef and pork bones. Some diners may consider the pork hock and tendon a bit off-putting, but they lend so much personality to a soup already brimming with soul-warming and assertive flavors. Its spiciness comes from lots of lemongrass, shrimp paste and a tangle of aromatic herbs. <\/span><\/p>\n

24 March 2017<\/strong>: While it seems the Land of Enchantment competes with Mississippi for last place in virtually every quality of life factor, there is one area in which the Magnolia State reigns supreme. That would be in the preparation of catfish. I\u2019ve often lamented (probably ad-nauseum) the lack of great catfish dishes in New Mexico, but should qualify that doesn\u2019t apply to the way Vietnamese restaurants prepare catfish. Caf\u00e9 Dalat and before that May Hong have quelled our yen for catfish many times. In Huong Thao\u2019s deep-fried catfish in ginger sauce<\/strong><\/em>, we found another superb catfish dish. The ginger sauce is applied lightly as opposed to the lacquered on sauce at Caf\u00e9 Dalat, but it is no less potent. That sauce enlivens the flaky fish. Perhaps in deference to queasy diners, Huong Thao serves its catfish sans head which is a shame because there\u2019s plenty of flavorful flesh in fish cheeks.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Deep-Fried Catfish in Ginger Sauce<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Huong Thao remains one of the city’s best and most popular Vietnamese restaurants. Don’t just take my word for it (considering the eleven year gap between visits). Ask anyone who knows and loves Vietnamese cuisine and they’ll tell you. <\/span><\/p>\n

Huong Thao<\/strong>
\n1016B Juan Tabo, N.E.
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\n(505) 292-8222
\nFacebook Page<\/strong><\/a>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 24 March 2017
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 6
\nRATING<\/strong>: 22
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: New Mexico Spring Rolls, Boneless Stuffed Chicken Wings, Rice Noodle Bowl Grilled With Lemongrass and Sliced Pork, Stir Fried Egg Noodles With Pork, Deep-Fried Catfish in Ginger Sauce, Spicy Beef Soup,<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In the year 2000 (ancient history by restaurant standards) when the Duke City had only a handful of Vietnamese restaurants, only one was listed on Zagat Survey\u2019s Millennium Edition of the top restaurants in the Southwest. That restaurant was Huong Thao which was widely regarded at the time as perhaps the city\u2019s very best Vietnamese dining establishment. Zagat Survey accorded Huong Thao a rating of \u201c24\u201d which categorized it as \u201cvery good to excellent.\u201d The restaurant was praised for its \u201cdelicious traditional foods\u201d and was singled out for its \u201cno-puff\u201d policies back when smoking was still allowed in Albuquerque dining establishments. In 2002, Huong Thao eked out a win over other highly-regarded Vietnamese restaurants in La Cocinita magazine\u2019s (defunct) 2002…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":42768,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,563,50],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-296","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-rating-excellent","category-vietnamese"],"yoast_head":"\nHuong Thao - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=296\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Huong Thao - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"In the year 2000 (ancient history by restaurant standards) when the Duke City had only a handful of Vietnamese restaurants, only one was listed on Zagat Survey\u2019s Millennium Edition of the top restaurants in the Southwest. 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