{"id":3010,"date":"2009-03-12T19:12:53","date_gmt":"2009-03-13T01:12:53","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=3010"},"modified":"2018-07-22T10:31:15","modified_gmt":"2018-07-22T16:31:15","slug":"the-chili-stop-cafe-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=3010","title":{"rendered":"The Chili Stop Cafe – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"The
The Chili Stop Cafe on Albuquerque’s West Side<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Over the years it\u2019s been my experience that almost invariably, New Mexican restaurants which violate traditional New Mexican grammar don\u2019t prepare the object of their grammatical faux pas very well. \u00a0The grammatical transgression of which I speak is forgetting the \u201ci\u201d before \u201ce\u201d rule and committing the piquant peccadillo of spelling New Mexico\u2019s official state vegetable with two \u201ci\u2019s\u201d and no \u201ce\u2019s.\u201d It\u2019s entirely forgivable that chile is technically a fruit, albeit one which packs an incendiary capsaicin punch, but like many New Mexicans, I feel personally insulted when presented with a menu offering \u201cchili.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

That grammatical malapropism wasn’t lost on Calvin Trillin, a legendary American journalist and novelist known for his humorous writings about food and eating. \u00a0 In an October, 2002 article on Gourmet<\/em> magazine entitled “Bowlful of Dreams,” he described a visit to the New York City “New Mexican” restaurant Los Dos Molinos<\/a>: “One of\u00a0the places I\u2019d heard about, Los Dos Molinos, seemed to have been designed for citizens who have gotten about ten years past spring break at Daytona Beach but had not lost their taste for specialties like a \u201cKick-Ass Pitcher\u201d of Margaritas. Although the red and green chile served as a dip with the chips would have been perfectly recognizable to a New Mexico purist, he would have been put off by his first glance at the menu. Sopaipillas were listed under desserts. <\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

In the most serious deviation from the gospel, the red and the green were identified on the menu as \u201cchili\u201d\u2014a spelling that would make any New Mexican connoisseur shudder. Chili is what people in Texas and California eat at chili contests and, to the astonishment of people from Northern New Mexico, even in between chili contests\u2014chopped meat and chili powder and maybe beans. It has no relation to a bowl of New Mexican red or green, which is somewhere in the neighborhood of a sauce or a soup or a stew, perhaps with a few pieces of meat in it, and is spelled \u201cchile<\/em>.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Chips
Chips and salsa<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When he launched the Chili Stop<\/a> restaurant in June, 2008, Ron Chavez had absolutely no compunction about the spelling of his restaurant\u2019s name. His brother, a retired teacher who made several trips to South America told him \u201cchili is a vegetable and Chile is a country,\u201d a contention backed up by several sources. \u00a0Perhaps Chavez and his brother had never read Trillin.<\/span><\/p>\n

Though Chavez might not be able to win a spelling bee anywhere in northern New Mexico, his green chile was the very best in the Duke City area. \u00a0When simmering on the stove, its aroma was like an\u00a0irresistible\u00a0siren’s call or a life-altering religious experience, the effect of which was rendering native New Mexicans like me weak in the knees and light in the head. \u00a0Effusive salivating akin to Pavlov’s dogs and absolute olfactory arousal ensued the moment our nostrils caught a whiff of that chile. \u00a0No, my friends, this wasn’t “chili” as Trillin aptly described it. <\/span><\/p>\n

Readers suffering from “advanced geriatric progression” like me might remember the Winston cigarettes slogan “what do you want good grammar or good taste.” \u00a0 Chavez’s green chile was so good, it was easy to forgive and forget that\u00a0atrocious\u00a0spelling of “chili.” \u00a0It was so good, it was easy to forgive the occasional too well-done beef on a bowl of green chile or the charred edges on the burger patties. \u00a0What we wanted was good taste, not good grammar.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Green
Green chile cheeseburger<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Alas, Chavez sold the Chili Stop five months after opening it. \u00a0Now called “The Chili Stop Cafe,” there are many indications this is not the same restaurant. \u00a0Most telling might be the “sub-title” on the signage which reads “Best Chile in the Westside.” \u00a0Better still, every entree on the menu on which it is used, spells it “chile.” \u00a0Still, as described above, spelling alone is not indicative of how good (or bad) the chile might be. <\/span><\/p>\n

Also indicative that this is not the Chili Stop of old is a larger menu than that of its predecessor, a menu which includes daily specials. \u00a0The breakfast menu features burritos (including a veggie burrito) and egg breakfasts (including\u00a0omelets). \u00a0The lunch menu includes burritos, enchiladas, burgers, tacos, stuffed sopaipillas, quesadillas and other items. \u00a0The restaurant now has a more artsy ambience and much more comfortable seating. \u00a0Cleanliness seems more prevalent and best of all, Chavez’s often confused and youthfully air-headed kitchen and wait staff has been replaced by more seasoned and attentive employees who actually care about their guests’ dining experiences. <\/span><\/p>\n

Conspicuous during my inaugural visit in March, 2009 was the seductive siren smell of green chile, but that’s a rarity in many New Mexican restaurants anyway. \u00a0The specialty of the house, I was told, is the green chile cheeseburger. \u00a0It was great to hear some things haven’t changed. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"The
The green chile cheeseburger at The Chili Stop Cafe<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The salsa<\/em> is of mild piquancy–garlic, jalapeno, onion–and is fairly thick so it doesn’t run off the chips, which are served warm in a basket. \u00a0The chips are also low in salt and have the fortitude to scoop up Gil-sized amounts of salsa.<\/span><\/p>\n

Burger options no longer start and end with the ubiquitous New Mexico favorite, the green chile cheeseburger. \u00a0You can now have a barbecue bacon burger, mushroom Swiss burger, tortilla burger (with chile and cheese), chicken tortilla burger or you can have your burger open-faced.<\/span><\/p>\n

The\u00a0green chile cheeseburger<\/em> is made with hand-formed, well-seasoned beef patties. \u00a0Served on a sesame seed bun about five-inches in circumference, the beef is draped by well-melted cheese (which also covers the green chile). \u00a0White onion, tomato, lettuce and pickle are available on the plate while mustard and ketchup can be found on each table. \u00a0The green chile has neither the bite nor the flavor of the old Chili Stop burger, but this burger isn’t solely about chile. \u00a0This burger is most definitely about the beef which is \u00a0prepared to slightly more than medium doneness. \u00a0As a supporting character, the green chile imparts a nice flavor that doesn’t overwhelm everything else on the burger. \u00a0That’s a good thing.<\/span><\/p>\n

The Chili Stop Cafe has established a loyal following among west-siders and has even won over some of the die-hard green chile addicts who, like me, thought they had found green chile Nirvana at the old Chili Stop. \u00a0After one visit, I’m not ready to proclaim the Chili Stop Cafe equal to or in the same league as its predecessor, but it definitely warrants repeat visits. <\/span><\/p>\n

The Chili Stop Cafe<\/strong>
\n3600 Highway 528
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 12 March 2009
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 1
\nRATING<\/strong>: *
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Green chile cheeseburger, chips and salsa <\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Over the years it\u2019s been my experience that almost invariably, New Mexican restaurants which violate traditional New Mexican grammar don\u2019t prepare the object of their grammatical faux pas very well. \u00a0The grammatical transgression of which I speak is forgetting the \u201ci\u201d before \u201ce\u201d rule and committing the piquant peccadillo of spelling New Mexico\u2019s official state vegetable with two \u201ci\u2019s\u201d and no \u201ce\u2019s.\u201d It\u2019s entirely forgivable that chile is technically a fruit, albeit one which packs an incendiary capsaicin punch, but like many New Mexicans, I feel personally insulted when presented with a menu offering \u201cchili.\u201d That grammatical malapropism wasn’t lost on Calvin Trillin, a legendary American journalist and novelist known for his humorous writings about food and eating. \u00a0 In…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":48672,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,541,262,112],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3010","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-closed-in-2009","category-closed","category-new-mexican"],"yoast_head":"\nThe Chili Stop Cafe - 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Please take a few minutes to tell me what you think. 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