{"id":30291,"date":"2025-11-01T23:00:24","date_gmt":"2025-11-02T05:00:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=30291"},"modified":"2026-04-05T14:21:04","modified_gmt":"2026-04-05T20:21:04","slug":"kaktus-brewing-company-bernalillo-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=30291","title":{"rendered":"Kaktus Brewing Company – Bernalillo, New Mexico"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
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Colorful Entrance to the Weird, Wonderful World of Kaktus Brewing<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Most of us have known a wine snob or two. You know the type. They refer to themselves as oenophiles, a fancy way of saying \u201cconnoisseur or lover of wines.\u201d They believe themselves to possess refined palates and won\u2019t drink a wine that isn\u2019t as cultured as they are. Even then, they first have to check the color and opacity of the wine. Then they twirl their glass for ten minutes or so before sticking their nose into the glass (like anteaters at an ant hole) and sniffing the wine noisily. They then proudly proclaim the wine has notes of oak, berries or butter. Their next step is to gargle with the wine, sloshing it between their cheeks and gums before finally imbibing of its delicate flavors and proclaiming it worthy.<\/p>\n

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The Bar<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In recent years, another adult beverage snob has arisen to give oenophiles some competition in the haughtiness department. They\u2019re called \u201ccerevisaphiles,\u201d a term that refers to beer enthusiasts. Cerevisaphiles turn their nose up at Pabst Blue Ribbon and other \u201cpedestrian swill.\u201d As with their oenophile counterparts, the cerevisaphiles pride themselves on their discerning palates. They will drink no beer before or after its time and are careful to note its appearance (color, head density) and aroma before sipping (yes, sipping) it and contemplating its worthiness. Where the snobbiest and most well-heeled of oenophiles pride themselves on wine cellars, cerevisaphiles (like my dear and much missed friend Ruben) take pride in brewing their own.<\/p>\n

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Dollar Bills are Tacked on Walls and Ceiling<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

That, my dear readers, is this gastronome’s feeble attempt to use humor and stereotypes to exploit the misconceptions behind the much maligned, much misunderstood talents and passions of oenophiles and cerevisaphiles. Most oenophiles and cerevisaphiles I know (including some of my best friends) are actually very down-to-earth and uncommonly modest. They’re justifiably proud of their bona fide gifts and abilities to discern and appreciate wine and beer in ways plebeians like me aren’t fully capable of doing. Where I\u2019m mildly jealous is that sometimes their gifts and abilities extend to the culinary realm. With their enhanced taste buds and olfactory senses, they can discern nuances and subtleties in foods better than I can. For all I know, they even have better vocabularies, too.<\/p>\n

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Live Music is a Staple at Kaktus<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Dana Koller is one such person. Born into a family which included talented chefs, Dana couldn’t help but develop a passion for quality foods. He parlayed his passions and precocious experiences in the food and beverage industries toward entrepreneurial channels, founding a marketing platform for local restaurants, bars, breweries and wineries throughout central and northern New Mexico.\u00a0 Although wine is his true passion, Dana’s refined palate also appreciates good beer.<\/p>\n

Seeing an untapped opportunity in Bernalillo, Dana partnered with brew master Mike Waddy to launch Kaktus Brewing Company in October, 2013. In the vernacular of the brewing industry, Kaktus is a nano-brewery in that it brews only about 500 total barrels a year. Kaktus, named for the German spelling of the word “cactus,” is also unique in that all beer is brewed on steel, flat-bottomed German-made equipment which allows for lighter style lagers without compromising on the quality of other beers. This Lilliputian brewery uses all natural and organic ingredients in its beer.<\/p>\n

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Dana’s Dog Bites<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

You have to get there first and that can be a bit tricky. Kaktus is located on South Hill Road, a lightly trafficked, relatively unknown two-lane west of and which essentially parallels I-25. It’s about half a mile from the Railrunner and lies in what seems to be part industrial complex, part residential area with a couple of trailer parks along the way. A single sign depicting Kokopelli points the way to the brewery. Signage not withstanding, you might still wonder if you entered a kitschy art compound instead of a brewery. Then there’s the brewery itself. There’s none of the pristine veneer or effusive, over-the-top flamboyance of the typical brew pub to lure in patrons.<\/p>\n

Instead, Kaktus resembles a somewhat austere converted home to which is attached a canopied patio, ostensibly for use when weather permits it. Visit Kaktus and after ogling the artsy yard prefacing the brewery, you’ll step into a brightly illuminated venue in which live music and dancing is the order of the day.\u00a0 Guests at Kaktus are decidedly a more seasoned crowd (confirmed by our server).\u00a0 Crooner Jimmy Buffet may have had such crowds in mind when he penned “Wrinkles will only go where smiles have been<\/em>.”\u00a0 There’s plenty to smile about at Kaktus, including a coal black cat that must have known I was allergic to it and decided to rub up against me.<\/p>\n

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The Quacker<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Primarily a brewery in which patrons can gather together leisurely and enjoy high quality beer, Kaktus hasn’t neglected the gustatory needs of its guests, offering a small, but inviting menu.\u00a0 When we first discovered Kaktus (back in 2014), it was the food menu which most appealed to me.\u00a0 \u00a0 We especially loved Kaktus’s unique take on all-American hot dogs.\u00a0\u00a0If, like me, you\u2019ve been so inundated with hot dogs obfuscated by everything but the kitchen sink, Kaktus was<\/strong><\/em> your hook-up, offering build-your-own hot dogs and brats.<\/p>\n

Build your own started with selecting your own dog or brat from an alluring selection: buffalo chile dog; Elk, Cheddar and Jalapeno Brat; All-Natural Beef Dog; Duck and Cilantro Game Sausage; and Wild Boar Game Sausage. Next you selected your choice of bun: baguette or pretzel and lastly your favorite toppings: mustard, ketchup, sauerkraut, garlic, onions and relish. You even got to specify whether you want your mustard or ketchup spread light, medium or heavy. Green chile and curry ketchup were available for a pittance. All brats and dogs were served with chips and salsa.\u00a0 Now, that was a hot dog menu!<\/p>\n

\"\"
Wild Spicy Elk Pizza<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Much has transpired in the decade since our last visit to Kaktus in Bernalillo.\u00a0 That doesn’t mean Kaktus was out of sight and out of mind.\u00a0 In January, 2016, Dana launched a second instantiation of Kaktus.\u00a0In part because of public demand, Dana entered Albuquerque\u2019s burgeoning brewery fray, opening the first Kaktus taproom<\/strong><\/a> at the space which previously housed Amore Neapolitan Pizzeria<\/strong>\u00a0<\/a>and before that\u00a0Bailey\u2019s on the Beach<\/a><\/strong>. That location, on the western fringes of Nob Hill and eastern extremities of the University of New Mexico (UNM), was situated in an area already bustling with taprooms. Sadly (in part because I worked at UNM, the Nob Hill edition of Kaktus closed within a year of opening.<\/p>\n

1 November 2025<\/strong>:\u00a0 Kaktus’s Nob Hill menu included some of the most unique pizza we’ve seen in the Land of Enchantment.\u00a0 Those pizzas are now available at the Bernalillo location.\u00a0 There are eleven pizzas on the menu, most of them a bit unconventional just like the brewery.\u00a0 Among the Nob Hill menu items which made it to Bernalillo are Dana’s dog bites<\/strong><\/em> (all natural beef dog wrapped in pizza crust, perfectly baked and served with house made curry ketchup and grain mustard.)\u00a0 \u00a0You can add chips and salsa for $2.50.\u00a0 These dog bites are baked in a commercial Blodgett oven.\u00a0 Though our dog bites may have spent just a bit too long in that oven, they were quite good.\u00a0 We loved the crispy crust.\u00a0 Both the curry ketchup and grain mustard are excellent.<\/p>\n

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Affogato<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

1 November 2025<\/strong>:\u00a0 “A new spin on pizza.”\u00a0 That’s how the menu describes The Quacker<\/strong><\/em> (sweet hoisin sauce with duck, bell peppers and spinach), an aptly named pizza which can be created for you in seven- and twelve-inch sizes.\u00a0 \u00a0 New spin indeed.\u00a0 My Kim loves hoisin sauce, a thick, dark, sweet, and salty Chinese condiment made from fermented soybeans, garlic, and chili peppers.\u00a0 Those chili peppers take a back seat to other flavor profiles which means she can handle this pizza’s “heat.”\u00a0 \u00a0 Thin discs of duck sausage (three per slice) are positioned on the pie so you taste the sausage with every bite.\u00a0 The hoisin sauce will probably never replace tomato sauce on pizza, but if you want something just a little different, a “new spin,” this is a pizza for you.<\/p>\n

1 November 2025<\/strong>:\u00a0 While my Kim could handle only the seven-inch pizza, I must have channeled my trencherman days and ordered a twelve-incher.\u00a0 The siren-like enticement of the wild spicy elk pizza<\/strong><\/em> (elk sausage, red onion, mozzarella, mushroom and drizzle of truffle oil) was too much to resist.\u00a0 Aside from being perhaps just a tad too charred (and I believe char is a flavor), this pizza was as good as promised.\u00a0 Perhaps because of the char and high heat from the Blodgett oven, the pizza crust was very firm.\u00a0 It didn’t flop down as many pizzas have the tendency to do.\u00a0 Kaktus’s pizzas are not of the scrawny Neapolitan pies.\u00a0 They’re thick and substantial.\u00a0 Even though hungry, all I could manage was three slides.\u00a0 Not to worry.\u00a0 This pizza is even better reheated.<\/p>\n

1 November 2025<\/strong>:\u00a0 Kaktus doesn’t offer much in terms of desserts.\u00a0 The online menu lists only the cinnamon pretzel (king size German pretzel topped with cinnamon sugar served with a cinnamon sugar whipped cream dip), but our gracious server told us we could also order a vanilla gelato.\u00a0 From there, it doesn’t take much to craft a delicious affogato<\/strong><\/em>.\u00a0 First, if you’re wondering what the differences are between vanilla ice cream and vanilla gelato, the latter has less fat, a more intense flavor, and is served at a warmer temperature than ice cream.\u00a0 Add some strong espresso and you’ve got a superb affogato.<\/p>\n

Not being a certified cerevisaphiles, I can\u2019t vouch for what beer goes well with what pizza. What I can vouch for with much alacrity is that Kaktus Brewing Company has pizza which go well with any appetite.<\/p>\n

Kaktus Brewing Company<\/strong>
\n471 South Hill Road
\nBernalillo, New Mexico<\/strong>
\n(505) 379.5072
\nWebsite<\/strong><\/a> | Facebook Page<\/strong><\/a>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 1 November 2025
\n1st VISIT<\/strong>: 4 January 2014
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 3
\nRATING<\/strong>: Very Good<\/span>\u00a0<\/strong>\u2013\u00a0Good to very good food; generally solid; delivers consistent quality, strong technique, and a comfortable, enjoyable dining experience
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: The Quacker, Wild Spicy Elk Pizza, Dana’s Dog Bites, Affogato<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Most of us have known a wine snob or two. You know the type. They refer to themselves as oenophiles, a fancy way of saying \u201cconnoisseur or lover of wines.\u201d They believe themselves to possess refined palates and won\u2019t drink a wine that isn\u2019t as cultured as they are. Even then, they first have to check the color and opacity of the wine. Then they twirl their glass for ten minutes or so before sticking their nose into the glass (like anteaters at an ant hole) and sniffing the wine noisily. They then proudly proclaim the wine has notes of oak, berries or butter. Their next step is to gargle with the wine, sloshing it between their cheeks and gums…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":71461,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,275,141,68,5631],"tags":[4154,5282,5278,5279,5281,5284,3118,5280,959,5283],"class_list":["post-30291","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-bernalillo","category-new-mexico","category-pizza","category-very-good","tag-affogato","tag-breaking-bad-stools","tag-cerevisiaphiles","tag-dana-koller","tag-danas-dog-bites","tag-kaktus-tap-room","tag-live-music","tag-nano-brewery","tag-nob-hill","tag-the-quacker"],"yoast_head":"\nKaktus Brewing Company - Bernalillo, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=30291\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Kaktus Brewing Company - Bernalillo, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Most of us have known a wine snob or two. You know the type. They refer to themselves as oenophiles, a fancy way of saying \u201cconnoisseur or lover of wines.\u201d They believe themselves to possess refined palates and won\u2019t drink a wine that isn\u2019t as cultured as they are. Even then, they first have to check the color and opacity of the wine. Then they twirl their glass for ten minutes or so before sticking their nose into the glass (like anteaters at an ant hole) and sniffing the wine noisily. They then proudly proclaim the wine has notes of oak, berries or butter. 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