{"id":3055,"date":"2009-09-09T14:01:48","date_gmt":"2009-09-09T20:01:48","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=3055"},"modified":"2018-07-21T10:37:51","modified_gmt":"2018-07-21T16:37:51","slug":"hurleys-coffee-tea-and-bistro-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=3055","title":{"rendered":"Hurley’s Coffee, Tea and Bistro – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Hurley's
Hurley’s on Fourth Street<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

“May you have food and raiment,
\na soft pillow for your head.
\nMay you be forty years in heaven
\nbefore the devil knows you\u2019re dead.”
\n<\/em>— An Irish Blessing<\/span><\/p>\n

Cynics who used to deride Irish food as the worst in the planet would have cautioned you to say a prayer before you ate it, but not necessarily in Thanksgiving for what you were about to receive. \u00a0For years the Emerald Isle has captured the imagination with its numberless shades of lush greens, smooth as silk whiskey, stout Guinness beer and poetry that can bring you to the depths of desolation or the heights of alacrity. \u00a0What the land of saints, sinners and poets had not, until recently, ever been known for, however, is its cuisine.<\/span><\/p>\n

Historically, just about the kindest things that were said about Irish food is that it was mundane and uninspired. \u00a0The stereotypical cavalcade of culinary mediocrity included boiled potatoes, boiled cabbage and boiled corned beef. <\/span><\/p>\n

That, as they say, is then. \u00a0Conscious of their beloved nation’s reputation, a new breed of creative Irish chefs (“wacky renegade cheese makers, people curing meat, exploring traditional Irish food ways, cooking well”<\/em> in Anthony Bourdain’s words) has debunked the myth that Irish food is the worst in the world. \u00a0Best of all, they did it by using locally grown ingredients: freshly caught seafood from local waters, high-quality produce grown on fecund Irish soil, regional cheeses and free-range pork, beef and lamb. \u00a0Discerning palates need no longer fear Irish food.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"The
The interior at Hurley’s<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Hurley’s Coffee, Tea and Bistro on Fourth Street is betting the old reputation of Irish food won’t deter potential guests. \u00a0It certainly didn’t deter \u00a0Amy Horowitz<\/a>, associate broker at Re\/Max Premier Realtors who was effusive in praising Hurley’s and encouraging me to visit. \u00a0Amy, in fact, collected much of the information on which this review is based.<\/span><\/p>\n

Both the Hurley family which owns the restaurant and chef\/general manager Dan Brittingham have a proud Irish heritage. \u00a0They feel their menu represents the Irish \u201croving\/wanderlust\u201d idea and takes its influence from many cultures.\u00a0Irish-influenced items (or interpretations) on the menu include the Irish farmer\u2019s breakfast, breakfast scones and potato leek soup.<\/span><\/p>\n

Unlike the “Irish pub in a box” template, Hurley’s Irish themed concept was designed and built entirely by the staff.\u00a0 The Hurley family collected many of the items over a number of years, with an eye toward opening an Irish-themed restaurant when the time was right. <\/span><\/p>\n

That Irish theme is definitely not overdone. \u00a0In fact, it’s surprisingly subdued and includes one wall dedicated to traditional Irish musical instruments including a mandolin, fiddle, banjo and even the mournful Uileann bagpipe. \u00a0Crossed cricket bats hang over the station at which the wait staff picks up their orders. \u00a0The Irish theme also applies\u00a0to several menu items which bear the names of Irish landmarks (such as Limerick) and names (Maigan). \u00a0The atmosphere is casual and includes both a fireplace and big screen television. \u00a0Wi-Fi connectivity is available for diners who like to stay connected. <\/span><\/p>\n

\""Best
“Best Salsa in Town”<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Chef Brittingham, a recent transplant from Seattle with more than 18 years in the restaurant business, has been with Hurley’s almost from its inception. \u00a0He\u00a0came in pre-opening and helped with the restaurant\u2019s construction, menu and recipe development, hiring, training, and implementing the point-of-sale system. \u00a0The chef has essentially done it all in the restaurant business, from\u00a0\u201cfine dining to short-order and everything in between.” \u00a0He worked in some of Seattle\u2019s best kitchens, including the world-famous Beth\u2019s Caf\u00e9<\/a>, home of the 12-egg omelet. \u00a0What inspires him most is reinterpreting comfort foods. <\/span><\/p>\n

Hurley’s opened for business on December 15, 2008 and business has been growing ever since. \u00a0Discerning diners have come out in droves to support Hurley\u2019s and some have already become daily regulars.\u00a0 Weekday lunch business has been steady while weekends are typically busier, drawing patrons from both the neighborhood and several groups, including a BMW motorcycle club, a cycling club, a women\u2019s club, and the after-church crowd.<\/span><\/p>\n

The facts that it is wonderfully eclectic and everything is made from scratch are undoubtedly the keys to its early success. \u00a0Made-from-scratch offerings include soups, sauces, relishes, tarts, scones, pastries, jams and jellies. Breakfast showcases omelets, huevos rancheros (albeit made with that bane of my spell-checker’s existence “chili”), build-your-own and grab-and-go breakfast burritos, pancakes, Belgian-style waffles, and a hearty Irish Farmer\u2019s Breakfast.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Beauteous<\/a>
Beauteous sandwich at Hurley’s (Courtesy of Sergio Salvador)<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Lunch offerings include grilled panini, soups, salads, daily specials, and Reuben sandwiches, a specialty of the house Amy calls “the best.” Hand-battered onion petals, homemade seasoned chips, hand-cut French fries, and fresh spring mix salads are offered as sides. \u00a0Hurley’s serves breakfast (6:30 – 11AM Monday through Friday and 8AM through 3PM on weekends). \u00a0The menu includes four varieties of freshly ground coffee, and nine blends of Tea Fort\u00e9\u2019s handcrafted, gourmet teas. <\/span><\/p>\n

Hurley’s rotates the styles and flavors of coffee to keep things interesting.\u00a0 Their offerings have included Snickerdoodle, Dark Secret, Mesa Sunrise, Colombian and \u201cCuppa Joe,\u201d among others.\u00a0 The haven\u2019t actually offered Irish (flavored) coffee, but may try putting it into their rotation.<\/span><\/p>\n

All Hurley\u2019s soups are made from a house-made vegetable stock. \u00a0The big hits were some classics —\u00a0Tomato and Basil Bisque, and Potato Leek Soup.\u201d When the weather gets warm, Chef Brittingham plans to serve a chilled avocado cucumber soup garnished with a watermelon-jicama slaw, and a chilled fresh pea soup.\u00a0 Next winter, he says he\u2019ll offer an Irish Beef Stew.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Limerick
Limerick Philly with Home Fries<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Dinner has, thus far, been offered only on one very special occasion, the day in which people of all ethnicities are Irish–St. Patrick\u2019s Day. \u00a0That event was so very well-received, the restaurant will look for other opportunities to do special dinners. \u00a0According to the chef, \u00a0specials will also reflect holidays and other occasions–like offering matzoh ball soup at Passover, Friday fish specials, and a Lenten lunch special on Ash Wednesday. \u00a0Hurley’s is also are looking at offering a dinner service down the road, but wants to be careful about expanding its service too quickly.<\/span><\/p>\n

Hurley\u2019s St. Patrick\u2019s Day dinner, by the way, featured a number of Irish-influenced offerings that by themselves might dispel any myths about Irish cooking:\u00a0 the Connolly Cobb salad (an old Gaelic recipe with fresh dill, parsley, scallions tossed in a warm mustard vinaigrette and topped with carrots, beets, eggs and potatoes), corned beef and cabbage,\u00a0Gardner’s\u00a0pie (shepherd\u2019s pie), bangers and mash (sausages and mashed potatoes) with saut\u00e9ed asparagus and Guinness gravy, fish and chips, and a dessert trinity that included Chranachan (toasted almond and oat cream pudding), Young\u2019s double-chocolate stout cake, and Irish cream\u00a0cappuccino.<\/span><\/p>\n

Visit an Irish pub or restaurant and the last thing you’d ever expect to read on the menu is the audacious claim “best salsa in town!” \u00a0Ron’s Homemade Salsa and Chips<\/em> makes that claim on the appetizers section of the menu. \u00a0It’s not a conventional New Mexico style salsa. \u00a0In fact, in the parlance and practice of New Mexican restaurants, it’s more a “pico de gallo” than it is a salsa.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Hand
Hand Battered Onion Petals<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Semantics not withstanding, it’s a colorful salsa crafted with chopped red tomatoes, red onion (which has always looked more purple than red to me), cilantro, green pepper, salt, pepper and garlic. \u00a0That’s it! \u00a0No chile or jalapeno. \u00a0It is a very fresh salsa packing a lot of flavor if not piquancy. \u00a0The homemade chips have the fortitude to hold the weight of the salsa, but not the width I like for Gil-sized scoops. <\/span><\/p>\n

Other appetizers include Maigan’s parmesan artichoke spinach dip and Jenny’s chicken quesadilla. \u00a0It’s okay that there aren’t a lot of appetizers on the menu because lunch entrees are accompanied by appetizer-like sides. \u00a0Besides, between the entrees and the sides, you’ll have more than enough to eat. <\/span><\/p>\n

The Reuben<\/em> is quite good, one of the very best in the Albuquerque just as Amy told me. \u00a0Thin-sliced corned beef is piled high with melted Swiss cheese then topped with Thousand Island dressing and sauerkraut on toasted marbled rye. \u00a0The tanginess of the dressing and sauerkraut are the perfect counterpoint to the distinctive sweet and full-bodied taste of the gorgeously swirling marbled rye. \u00a0The rye is lightly toasted, just enough to bring out the bread’s vibrant flavor.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"The
The 3 B’s burger with green chile coleslaw<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Another sandwich option is the Limerick Philly<\/em> made in a way you might not see in the mean streets of the City of Brotherly Love. \u00a0Like many interpretations of the iconic Philadelphia cheesesteak sandwich, Hurley’s rendition takes license. \u00a0If you’re expecting to duplicate an experience at South Philadelphia’s legendary Pat’s King of Steaks, you might be disappointed. \u00a0If you want an excellent sandwich, you’ll be happy with this one. <\/span><\/p>\n

Like the classic Philadelphia cheesesteak, the Limerick Philly is crafted with thin-sliced steak but there similarities end. Other Limerick ingredients include sauteed onions and mushrooms with Provolone and cream cheese on a hoagie. \u00a0The steak is of high quality and absolutely delicious, a perfect complement to the rich cheeses and sweet onions. \u00a0The sandwich is served hot which means the two cheeses melt and make a delicious mess of things, but it’s a delicious mess that may leave you wanting to lick your plate afterwards.<\/span><\/p>\n

Five creative burgers are also available, including a vegetarian burger (substituting Hurley’s veggie black bean patty for meat). \u00a0All burgers are served with the restaurant’s house-made burger sauce, leaf lettuce, tomato, red onion and your choice of sides. \u00a0The “Old Fashioned” burger, served with American cheese, is the only one which might not capture the imagination. \u00a0That’s not to imply that it’s boring in any way. \u00a0It’s just that the other burgers are constructed with more flair and imagination.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"French<\/a>
French fries at Hurley’s (Amazing Photo courtesy of Sergio Salvador)<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The 3 B’s burger,\u00a0for\u00a0example<\/span>, <\/em>is comprised of bacon, blue cheese and Hurley’s house-made red chili espresso BBQ sauce. \u00a0While the combination of blue cheese and bacon can be very salty, the saltiness is tempered if you pile your burger with the other ingredients. \u00a0It also helps that the red chili espresso BBQ sauce is an interesting amalgam of taste combinations that prove very complementary as well as moistening for the burger. <\/span><\/p>\n

Like the mad scientist mixing chemical beakers hoping to concoct something brilliant, I took my side dish of green chili coleslaw<\/em> and spooned some of it atop an already engorged burger. \u00a0A burger which didn’t need any improvement was indeed improved by the sweet-piquant flavor combination of the coleslaw. \u00a0It’s probably not for everyone but fellow culinary experimenters.<\/span><\/p>\n

The sides are worthy accompaniment to the sandwiches. \u00a0Choices include plain, apple or garlic mash; hand-cut French fries, hand-battered onion petals, sauteed vegetable of the day, a green side salad or homemade and seasoned chips. \u00a0Our waiter candidly informed us that the sides most often left on the plate at meal’s end are the chips and the sauteed vegetables.<\/span><\/p>\n

We didn’t leave any country potatoes (a compromise from an accommodating waiter) on our plate. \u00a0That’s because these potatoes are perfectly fried, skins and all. \u00a0Cubed into bite sized pieces and salted lightly, they’re soft on the inside with a dark golden sheen on the exterior with the taste you would like from French fries.<\/span><\/p>\n

The hand-battered onion petals are also quite good. \u00a0Lightly battered onion petals and shavings are piled high on a vertical wire basket. \u00a0They’re reminiscent of onion rings without the extraneous batter some restaurants tend to lay on thickly. \u00a0My dining companion, a discerning onion ring aficionado, called them among the best she’s had in the Duke City.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Cherry
Cherry cheese Danish<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Baked goods are showcased under glass by the register. \u00a0They include cherry cheese Danish (pictured above) and one of the largest apple turnovers I’ve ever seen. \u00a0Though the pastries are\u00a0sizable, much of their girth is a superfluity of puff pastry. \u00a0The amount of fruit is drastically underwhelming. <\/span><\/p>\n

Hurley’s is one of those restaurants in which you just might utter a prayer or two of thanksgiving afterwards for thoroughly enjoyable meal. \u00a0My thanks to Amy Horowitz for recommending the restaurant and her outstanding fact-gathering for this review.<\/span><\/p>\n

Hurley’s Coffee, Tea and Bistro<\/span><\/strong>
\n6100 4th Street
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\nLATEST VISIT: 9 September 2009<\/span>
\n<\/strong>1st VISIT<\/strong>: 15 March 2009
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 2
\nRATING<\/strong>: 20<\/span><\/strong>
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: \u00a0Waterford Rueben, Limerick Philly, Chips and Salsa, Hand Battered Onion Petals, 3 B’s Burger<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

“May you have food and raiment, a soft pillow for your head. May you be forty years in heaven before the devil knows you\u2019re dead.” — An Irish Blessing Cynics who used to deride Irish food as the worst in the planet would have cautioned you to say a prayer before you ate it, but not necessarily in Thanksgiving for what you were about to receive. \u00a0For years the Emerald Isle has captured the imagination with its numberless shades of lush greens, smooth as silk whiskey, stout Guinness beer and poetry that can bring you to the depths of desolation or the heights of alacrity. \u00a0What the land of saints, sinners and poets had not, until recently, ever been known…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3057,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,21,541],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3055","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-american","category-closed-in-2009"],"yoast_head":"\nHurley's Coffee, Tea and Bistro - Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED) - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=3055\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Hurley's Coffee, Tea and Bistro - Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED) - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"“May you have food and raiment, a soft pillow for your head. May you be forty years in heaven before the devil knows you\u2019re dead.” — An Irish Blessing Cynics who used to deride Irish food as the worst in the planet would have cautioned you to say a prayer before you ate it, but not necessarily in Thanksgiving for what you were about to receive. \u00a0For years the Emerald Isle has captured the imagination with its numberless shades of lush greens, smooth as silk whiskey, stout Guinness beer and poetry that can bring you to the depths of desolation or the heights of alacrity. \u00a0What the land of saints, sinners and poets had not, until recently, ever been known…\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=3055\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:author\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/nmgastronome\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2009-09-09T20:01:48+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2018-07-21T16:37:51+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/hurley01-1024x699.gif\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1024\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"699\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/gif\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Gil Garduno\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Gil Garduno\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"11 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=3055#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=3055\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Gil Garduno\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/423b9c3eeeb199e43ab4f1f584fa67bf\"},\"headline\":\"Hurley’s Coffee, Tea and Bistro – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)\",\"datePublished\":\"2009-09-09T20:01:48+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2018-07-21T16:37:51+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=3055\"},\"wordCount\":2205,\"commentCount\":2,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=3055#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2009\\\/03\\\/hurley01.gif\",\"articleSection\":[\"Albuquerque\",\"American\",\"Closed in 2009\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=3055#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=3055\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=3055\",\"name\":\"Hurley's Coffee, Tea and Bistro - 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