{"id":368,"date":"2011-01-09T03:18:16","date_gmt":"2011-01-09T10:18:16","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=368"},"modified":"2026-04-03T19:46:02","modified_gmt":"2026-04-04T01:46:02","slug":"pupuseria-y-restaurante-salvadoreno-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=368","title":{"rendered":"Pupuseria Y Restaurante Salvadore\u00f1o – Albuquerque, New Mexico"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
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Pupuseria Y Restaurante Salvadoreno on Bridge Street<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In the 1980s, several hundred thousand Salvadorans fled their civil war ravaged nation (courtesy, many would say of America’s attempting to turn El Salvador into the Western hemisphere’s version of Vietnam).\u00a0 Many migrated to large metropolitan areas in the United States\u00a0where their culture has quietly flourished.\u00a0 Those immigrants introduced and hooked Californians on their national snack, a modest street food called the pupusa<\/em>.\u00a0 If you’ve never had a pupusa, there’s a chance you may have learned of them on the Food Network’s Diners Drive-Ins and Dives<\/a> program.\u00a0 In 2009, host Guy Fieri visited Santa Fe’s Tune-Up Cafe<\/a> where the garrulous wayfarer was first introduced to pupusas himself.<\/span><\/p>\n

A pupusa is a thick, hand-made corn tortilla stuffed with sundry ingredients, the only limitation as to what each is engorged with being the imagination of the chef preparing them.\u00a0 Unlike New Mexican tortillas, Salvadorian tortillas are made with no baking powder and very little (if any) salt.\u00a0 They’re roughly four-inches in diameter and made with a maize masa.\u00a0 In recent decades, pupuserias have sprung up in many large American cities.\u00a0 Generally small and family run, pupuserias have been developing a very popular following among college students and adventurous diners.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Pupusas<\/a>
Pupusas and curtido at Pupuseria Y Restaurante Salvadoreno (Photo courtesy of Sergio Salvador)<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Pupuseria Y Restaurante Salvadore\u00f1o launched in November, 2005 and within months inspired a “Where’s Waldo” type search for a rumored Salvadoran restaurant, the Duke City’s first.\u00a0 That search was triggered by a reader of the Albuquerque Tribune’s<\/em> “Food City” column who was desperately craving pupusas.\u00a0 Fortunately for other pupusa fanatics, another reader let everyone know just where the restaurant is.\u00a0 It’s a homey hole-in-the-wall on the corner of Goff and Bridge.\u00a0 In 2010, a second instantiation of the restaurant opened on the corner of San Mateo and Gibson, directly west of the “Chevy on a Stick<\/a>.”<\/span><\/p>\n

Owned by retired military veteran Eddie Aguilar but run by his sister Antonia Miles and their huggable mother Ruth Aguilar, Pupuseria Y Restaurante\u00a0 Salvadore\u00f1o is a treasure which looks as it belongs somewhere in inner city Los Angeles.\u00a0 As terrific as it is and after experiencing absolutely addicting flavor explosions during each visit, our return visits have been all too infrequent.\u00a0 Antonia is the visible face of the restaurant while Ruth operates the kitchen with the skill of someone who loves to cook.\u00a0\u00a0To Ruth there is no greater compliment than the smile of her customers’ as they enjoy her cooking.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"A<\/a>
A sensational Salvadoran meal (Photo by Sergio Salvador)<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Several colorful towels adorn the restaurant’s walls.\u00a0 One towel depicts the Salvadoran and United States flags with the words “Estamos Unidos” (we’re united).\u00a0 Other colorful towels portray Salvadoran women preparing pupusas in an open air market at which children are frolicking.\u00a0 There are at least two maps of El Salvador on the wall as well as two posters of the country’s currency, the Colon.\u00a0 Perhaps reflective of El Salvador’s attitude toward family, most of the restaurant’s seating seems tailored for groups of four or more.\u00a0 When all tables are occupied, you can still sit on a counter above which a television seems perpetually tuned to a soccer game.<\/span><\/p>\n

The menu features nine different pupusas, all served with curtido<\/em> (a pickled-cabbage relish with a taste more than vaguely reminiscent of something between coleslaw and sauerkraut) and a water-thin tomato salsa<\/em>.\u00a0 The curtido is made with beets, cabbage, carrots, dried hot pepper and Mexican oregano (a natural flavor ameliorant far superior to its ground American counterpart).\u00a0 You can eat the curtido as you would any coleslaw or you can pile it on your pupusa as Salvadorans tend to do.\u00a0 Either way, it’s an exciting taste experience.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"A
A Salvadoran Tamale prepared on banana leaves (Photo courtesy of Sergio Salvador)<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The pupusas are as wonderful as those I first experienced in San Jose, California several years ago.\u00a0 It isn”t difficult to imagine a Salvadoran mother lovingly crafting the pupusa revuelta<\/em> (mixed), crafted with cheese (a soft Salvadoran cheese called quesillo), chicharrones and refried beans…and indeed, we have been so effusive in our praise of this tortilla treasure that Ruth has come out of the kitchen during each of our visits to accept our compliments in person.\u00a0 Equally praise-worthy is the pupusa de queso con loroco<\/em>.\u00a0 Loroco is a vine flower bud that grows throughout Central America. <\/span><\/p>\n

You could easily make a meal out of several pupusas and would be more than satisfied, however, the menu is replete with intriguing choices–starting with the beverage (bebidas) selections.\u00a0 Aguas Frescas include horchata<\/em> (the refreshing rice and cinnamon drink), pi\u00f1a (pineapple), melon<\/em> and tamarindo (a slightly sour fruity drink).\u00a0 For health-conscious diners, several natural juvos (juices) flavored with carrot (zanahoria) and other fruit or vegetable ingredients can also be found.\u00a0 The zanahoria y naranja<\/em> (orange) beverage is a refreshing and delicious surprise chock full of vitamins.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Healthful<\/a>
Healthful and refreshing beverage (Photo courtesy of Sergio Salvador)<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The menu also includes entree choices sure to please the discerning diner.\u00a0 As you contemplate the menu, you’ll enjoy the complementary chips and salsa.\u00a0 Both are more in the style of Mexican salsa and chips than they are New Mexican which means a pureed and piquant sauce and thick, unsalted chips.\u00a0 Carnivores are sure to enjoy the beef steak encebollado<\/em>, a thin steak in a light brown gravy flavored with roasted onion and peppers.\u00a0 The cut of meat is typically cut, but the flavors work very well together.\u00a0 If fish is more what you wish, the mojarra frita<\/em>, a lightly battered fried fish is a very good choice (just watch out for those sharp bones).<\/span><\/p>\n

Irish playwright George Bernard Shaw once posited that “England and America are two countries separated by a common language<\/em>.”\u00a0 Let me posit that New Mexico and El Salvador are a state and country similarly separated.\u00a0 Case in point are tamales and torta de huevo, two dishes common to both New Mexico and El Salvador yet two dishes as different as night and day while retaining some unmistakable similarities. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
Torta Cubano stuffed with ham, cheese, lettuce, hot dog, guacamole, mayonnaise and coleslaw<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Salvadoran tamales are filled with shredded chicken and wrapped in a banana leaf (hoja de platano).\u00a0 Texturally, the masa is more fine than the masa used in New Mexican or Mexican tamales.\u00a0 In fact, the masa is prepared first then wrapped around the shredded chicken and steamed in the banana leaves.\u00a0 The leaves impart a distinct herbaceous quality to the chicken and seal in the moistness you want in a chicken dish.\u00a0 In New Mexico torta de huevo is a traditional Lenten dish made from egg whites beaten to a frothy consistency then fried into circular “fritters.” In its annual Food & Wine issue for 2012, Albuquerque The Magazine<\/a> awarded Pupuseria Y Restaurante Salvadoreno a Hot Plate Award signifying the selection of its tamal de pollo as one of the \u201cmost interesting, special and tasty dishes around.\u201d\u00a0 Considering the thousands of potential selections, to be singled out is quite an honor.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

Salvadoran torta de huevo<\/em> is more akin to an unfolded omelet.\u00a0 Similar to an omelet, it is stuffed with various ingredients–primarily chopped onions and tomato at Pupuseria Y Restaurante Salvadoreno.\u00a0 Unlike American omelets which tend to be light and fluffy, Salvadoran torta de huevo has a fried egg texture and appearance.\u00a0 Bite into it and you’ll notice the differences immediately.\u00a0 This entree is served with refried beans, sour cream and quesillo, the unique Salvadoran cheese.\u00a0 The refried beans are actually better than just about any I can remember having at any Mexican or New Mexican restaurant.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
Torta de Huevo Salvadoreno with beans, cream and quesillo<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In the nearly four years (2007-2011) which elapsed between our visits to this fabulous Salvadoran treasure, several things had changed–all for the better.\u00a0 The complementary salsa and chips\u00a0 are new as are “tortas ricas.”\u00a0 Tortas are popular Mexican sandwiches typically made from an oblong six-to-eight inch soft Mexican bread rolls called bolillos).\u00a0 The restaurant offers three different tortas: the Cubana, the carne asada (literally roasted meat) and the jamon (a dry-cured ham).\u00a0 Our waiter heartily recommended the Cubano and for good reason.<\/span><\/p>\n

The Cubano, loosely patterned after the famous sandwich of the same name, is fantastic–a large bolillo stuffed with ham, cheese, hot dog wieners, lettuce and tomato.\u00a0 The bolillo is smeared with both mayonnaise and guacamole, giving it a very rich taste.\u00a0 The torta is as thick as a triple-beef hamburger; you have to open your mouth wide to bite into it, but when you do, you’ll be surprised at the deliciousness of the ingredient combination.\u00a0 The ham and hot dog duo, in particular, are quite good, literally two pork products in concert with one another.\u00a0 It’s big enough for two to share.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
Salsa and chips<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We were so pleased with our introductory meals that even though bursting from the large quantities of food we had just consumed, we were eager to see if the chef’s kitchen mastery extended to desserts.\u00a0 Though not on the menu, Ruth whipped up some warm natillas richly flavored with cinnamon and raisins.\u00a0 Somewhat more liquefied than natillas you might find at a New Mexican restaurant, Ruth’s version is simply wonderful, among the best we’ve had anywhere.<\/span><\/p>\n

Albuquerque has become a rich melting pot in which the world’s cultures integrate easily and contribute to the fabric of the city.\u00a0 One of the best ways to begin to appreciate a culture is through its cuisine.\u00a0 Our visits to Pupuseria Y Restaurante Salvadore\u00f1o have certainly increased our appreciation for the great people and culture of our Central American neighbor.<\/span><\/p>\n

Pupuseria Y Restaurante Salvadore\u00f1o<\/span><\/strong>
\n1701 Bridge, S.W.
\nAlbuquerque, NM<\/strong>
\n243-8194<\/span><\/p>\n

LATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 9 January 2011
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 4
\nRATING<\/strong>: Very Good<\/span>\u00a0<\/strong>\u2013\u00a0Good to very good food; generally solid; delivers consistent quality, strong technique, and a comfortable, enjoyable dining experience
\nCOST<\/strong>: $ – $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Pupusa Revuelta; Pupusa De Queso Con Loroco; Pupusa De Salami; Pupusa De Camaron; Platano Frito Con Crema Y Frijoles; Beef Steak Encebollado; Torta de Huevo Salvadoreno, Torta Cubana, Torta de Carne Asada<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In the 1980s, several hundred thousand Salvadorans fled their civil war ravaged nation (courtesy, many would say of America’s attempting to turn El Salvador into the Western hemisphere’s version of Vietnam).\u00a0 Many migrated to large metropolitan areas in the United States\u00a0where their culture has quietly flourished.\u00a0 Those immigrants introduced and hooked Californians on their national snack, a modest street food called the pupusa.\u00a0 If you’ve never had a pupusa, there’s a chance you may have learned of them on the Food Network’s Diners Drive-Ins and Dives program.\u00a0 In 2009, host Guy Fieri visited Santa Fe’s Tune-Up Cafe where the garrulous wayfarer was first introduced to pupusas himself. A pupusa is a thick, hand-made corn tortilla stuffed with sundry ingredients, the…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":47174,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,5631,526],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-368","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-very-good","category-salvadoran"],"yoast_head":"\nPupuseria Y Restaurante Salvadore\u00f1o - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=368\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Pupuseria Y Restaurante Salvadore\u00f1o - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"In the 1980s, several hundred thousand Salvadorans fled their civil war ravaged nation (courtesy, many would say of America’s attempting to turn El Salvador into the Western hemisphere’s version of Vietnam).\u00a0 Many migrated to large metropolitan areas in the United States\u00a0where their culture has quietly flourished.\u00a0 Those immigrants introduced and hooked Californians on their national snack, a modest street food called the pupusa.\u00a0 If you’ve never had a pupusa, there’s a chance you may have learned of them on the Food Network’s Diners Drive-Ins and Dives program.\u00a0 In 2009, host Guy Fieri visited Santa Fe’s Tune-Up Cafe where the garrulous wayfarer was first introduced to pupusas himself. 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