{"id":414,"date":"2024-07-27T00:15:30","date_gmt":"2024-07-27T06:15:30","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=414"},"modified":"2024-07-31T10:09:51","modified_gmt":"2024-07-31T16:09:51","slug":"trombinos-bistro-italiano-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=414","title":{"rendered":"Trombino’s Bistro Italiano – Albuquerque, New Mexico"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
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Trombino’s Bistro Italiano on Academy<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

One commonality among conservatives and liberals is an unwaivering belief that “their side” is right and the other side is pretty stupid. \u00a0Idealogues on both sides wonder how the other side can be so wrong in their thinking. They both wonder why people on the other side refuse to listen to reason and to truths that are so obvious. \u00a0On a bilateral basis, both sides stubbornly hold to their beliefs, refusing to concede any merit to any matter contrary to their own. \u00a0Partisan affiliations get tied up in personal identities. \u00a0Any attack on our strongly held beliefs is a personal attack on us…and our brains are built to protect the self.<\/p>\n

When our personal convictions and beliefs are attacked, we evade or defend, often with vitriol. \u00a0This doesn’t occur solely in politics. \u00a0After my third visit to long-time Duke City favorite Trombino’s Bistro Italiano, I expressed my opinions in my inimitable style. \u00a0Trombino’s loyalists disagreed rather vehemently. \u00a0Some attacked me personally. \u00a0Others not only agreed, they did so with gusto, recounting their own less than satisfactory experiences. \u00a0In addition to reading this review, I encourage you to read my inaugural missive (below) and the comments it engendered (make sure to click the “Show More Comments” link).<\/p>\n

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Trombino’s Dining Room<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Perhaps indicative of my advancing geriatric progression, I’ve been known to change my mind on occasion. \u00a0There is no immutable law that declares a restaurant to be doomed to perceived perpetual mediocrity. \u00a0After not having visited Trombino’s in nearly two decades (2006), we returned in July, 2024, determined to evaluate Trombino’s with tabula rasa (a blank slate). \u00a0It’s not easy to do considering long-held opinions. \u00a0To help either validate or refute those opinions, we brought sister-in-Law Lola DeVivo Laws with us. \u00a0She knows Italian food and prepares it as well as most restaurants.<\/p>\n

Trombino’s isn’t winning “Best Italian restaurant” accolades with as much regularity as it used to before M’Tucci’s<\/strong><\/a> came on the scene and more diners figured out Rio Rancho was well worth the drive for a fabulous meal at Joe’s Pasta House<\/strong><\/a>. \u00a0Polls and “best of” designations by food writers don’t necessarily translate to seats being filled. \u00a0We were pleasantly surprised at just how crowded Trombino’s was. \u00a0That suggests that diners’ dollars are being spread among the metropolitan areas several excellent to outstanding Italian restaurants. \u00a0We were seated in the bar area which was actually quieter than the dining room.<\/p>\n

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Bread with Italian Seasonings (Butter on the side)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Trombino’s \u00a0has been “serving “mangia” and “abbondanza” since 1979. \u00a0That’s 34 years of pleasing palates. \u00a0The amazing story<\/strong><\/a> of the Trombino family reads like a great movie script with some twists and turns that may leave you spellbound. After visiting relatives in Albuquerque, the Trombino family decided that New Mexico was indeed the “Land of Enchantment.” So in 1966 they moved away from Chicago and began a new chapter of their lives in the southwest. After their arrival the Trombinos opened up a new business, “Trombino’s Hamburgers.” The restaurant quickly prospered with its simple menu of burgers sandwiches, spaghetti and meatballs, and more. The food became so popular that on occasion the doors would be locked to keep the line of customers out until they could be served.<\/p>\n

In 1978, the Trombino family launched “Trombino’s Restaurant: Italian Menu and Food from the Sea.” \u00a0Despite the high quality of the restaurant’s food, without a liquor license the restaurant struggled. \u00a0 Over time, customers became hooked on \u00a0the large portions of the made-from-scratch, fresh food. \u00a0In 1990, the restaurant’s name was changed to “Trattoria Trombino,” a name which reflects the family’s commitment to traditional Italian fare from a menu that reflects old-style Italian food from various regions of Italy.<\/p>\n

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Bolognese<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

An olive branch signifies a house specialty on the menu. \u00a0There are several house specialties on the menu including a classic grilled pork chop and grilled Atlantic salmon fresca. \u00a0Seven appetizers are available for starting your meal including shrimp cocktail with a housemade cocktail sauce. \u00a0Alternatively you can enjoy one of three soups, all available in cup or bowl sizes. \u00a0Four entree salads precede four half salads which are served as a side or full size. \u00a0“From the Grill” selections of steak and chops will appease all carnivores. \u00a0Then there’s the Frutta Di Mare (food from the sea) section showcasing plenty of fresh fish daily (one of the city’s best seafood shops is right next door). \u00a0Other menu sections are dedicated to House Favorites, Pasta and Plates of the House. \u00a0It’s an impressive menu!<\/p>\n

As you peruse the menu, your server will ferry over a basket of warm bread covered by a cloth to keep it fresh and warm. \u00a0It’s among the best restaurant bread in town and it’s \u00a0made from scratch, from a Trombino aunt’s bread recipe. \u00a0Accompanying the bread are pats of butter (the easy-to-spread kind not the half frozen stuff) and a dipping sauce blending salt, pepper, oregano and other Italian seasonings in an olive oil base. \u00a0It’s a peppery sauce with plenty of personality. \u00a0Visit Trombino’s when famished and you risk filling up on the addictive bread.<\/p>\n

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Lasagna<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

27 July 2024<\/strong>: \u00a0As the name declares, Bolognese sauce originated in Bologna in north-central Italy in a a region that some say produces the best food in the country. In America, Bolognese sauce has become the generic name for a meat and tomato sauce. \u00a0While some of the ingredients in Italian Bolognese are similar to those in American-style spaghetti meat sauce, authentic (Italian) Bolognese is thicker, has milk added \u00a0and uses far less tomato. Trombino’s menu boasts of “traditional Bolognese ground veal, pork and beef, tomato sauce with a touch of milk.” \u00a0The telltale signs when milk is added are the color of the sauce being more orange than red and the meat being more tender. \u00a0 It’s the way Oprah’s favorite Italian restaurant Trattoria Mollie<\/strong><\/a> in Montecito, California makes it. \u00a0It’s the way we love it.<\/p>\n

27 July 2024<\/strong>: \u00a0Tim, my brother-in-law who’s been enjoying his Italian wife’s cooking for more than two decades declared Trombino’s lasagna<\/strong> “9 out of 10.” \u00a0That’s as close to perfect as any lasagna he’s ever had and equal only to the lasagna at Joe’s Pasta House (which Yelp rates as one of the 20 best in the country). \u00a0It’s layers and layers of love. \u00a0Well, actually it’s homemade baked lasagna made with fresh pasta, tomato meat sauce, mozzarella and fresh ricotta cheese. \u00a0The blend of mozzarella and fresh ricotta is especially noteable. \u00a0Mozarella blankets the lasagna like a molten tarpaulin while the fresh ricotta provides \u00a0milky and tangy notes. \u00a0 It’s cheese in two part harmony. \u00a0The tomato meat sauce has a nice acidic tang which infiltrates layer upon layer of lasagna noodles. \u00a0This is a very good lasagna!<\/p>\n

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Chocolate Mousse<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

27 July 2024<\/strong>: According to the wonderful tome Pasqualina’s Table<\/strong><\/a>, Italian desserts have a rich history dating back to ancient Rome, where honeyed cakes and fruit dishes were relished. \u00a0 The desserts at Trombino’s may not be quite as venerable, but they’re timeless–and not all of them are Italian. One such desserts is the chocolate mousse<\/strong><\/em> which was first discribed as “mayonnaise de chocolat” and was invented by the French post-Impressionist painter Henri Toulouse-Lautrec<\/a><\/strong>, in the late 19th century. \u00a0Chocolate mousse is is light yet intensely chocolate. \u00a0It’s a favorite of chocoholics everywhere. \u00a0Trombino’s version is among the best in town.<\/p>\n

27 July 2024<\/strong>: Culinary historians believe spumoni originated in Naples sometime in the 19th century. \u00a0Ironically, Naples is also the birthplace of Neapolitan ice cream. \u00a0Like Neapolitan ice cream, spumoni is a tri-colored melange of flavors: chocolate, cherry and pistachio. While Neapolitan ice cream is always brown (chocolate), pink (strawberry), and white (vanilla), spumoni is typically brown, pink, and green. Spumoni is a traditional Italian dessert that\u2019s actually a milk sherbet–not quite ice cream and not quite sorbet. \u00a0Dairy (usually milk or buttermilk) is added. \u00a0This gives it a slightly creamier texture than sorbet, as well as a lighter, pastel color. \u00a0 Trombino’s spumoni<\/strong><\/em> is fabulous!<\/p>\n

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Spumoni<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I’m adult enough to eat a little crow every once in a while. \u00a0Trombino’s has redeemed itself in my eyes, but one of the hallmarks of excellence is consistency. \u00a0We’ll certainly visit again to see if this Italian favorite wows me again.<\/p>\n

Trombino’s Bistro Italiano<\/strong>
\n5415 Academy, N.E.
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\n821-5974
\n Web Site<\/a><\/strong> | Facebook Page<\/strong><\/a>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 27 July 2024
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 4
\nRATING<\/strong>: N\/R
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Bolognese, Lasagna, Chocolate Mousse, Spumoni, Bread<\/p>\n

INITIAL REVIEW (30 June 2006)<\/strong><\/h1>\n

In describing George Lindsay’s character Goober on his self-titled show, Andy Griffith said Goober was the type of person who would sit down at a table and say, “Hey, this is great salt<\/em>.”\u00a0 Had he dined at Trombino’s Bistro Italiano, I believe Goober might have limited his compliments to the salt (okay, maybe he would have added the bread).<\/p>\n

Our three experiences at this venerable Northeast Heights Italian bistro have us shaking our head in wonder at how this very popular dining destination continues to thrive–and more amazingly how its loyal patrons invariably send me e-mail questioning my parentage after I write something disparaging about Trombino’s.\u00a0 We feel like Bob Newhart as the only sane diners in an assemblage of taste bud deprived patrons who continue to pack what we believe to be a restaurant the quality of its cuisine which is a step down from the corporate chains that are often the target of my derision.<\/p>\n

We can understand one bad meal–an unappetizing appetizer here, an occasional overdone entree there–but to go three visits and have our taste buds either lulled to sleep or tortured into submission is too much.\u00a0 Ironically, it was the axiom “Mangia bene, Viva Bene” (“he who eats well, lives well”) on the menu that first caught my eye and heightened my expectations that we might indeed have a good meal at the restaurant formerly known as “Trattoria Trombino.”<\/p>\n

So, am I the only Albuquerque diner who’s ever experienced a bad meal at this extremely popular restaurant…the only diner who isn’t bought in?\u00a0 Trombino’s “Best of City” awards in just 2005 include Best Italian Restaurant from the Alibi<\/em> Reader’s Choice Restaurant Poll, Albuquerque The Magazine’s<\/em> Best of the City and Citysearch…but I’m not crazy.\u00a0 Everybody else is.<\/p>\n

The parade of mediocrity started during our introductory meal at Trombino’s in 2000 when we were left aghast by fried shrimp<\/em><\/strong> reminiscent of the heavily breaded “all you can eat” shrimp served at restaurants such as Sizzler and an uninspiring marinara sauce not even as good as the one served at the Olive Garden.\u00a0 Remarkably the service was slow and lines were out the door (this being Albuquerque, the Olive Garden must have been packed) with ravenous customers salivating at the prospects of their meal.<\/p>\n

During our second visit, we were determined to try something more unconventional in the hopes that it would give us a truer (or at least a reasonably favorable) impression of this highly regarded and yawning dining establishment.\u00a0 It started off well with an appetizer of Mussels Zafferano<\/em><\/strong>, Atlantic blue gold mussels steamed in a spicy saffron white wine sauce.\u00a0 This was among the very best saffron sauces we’ve had in the Duke City, but several of the mussels were either gritty, too chewy or we couldn’t extricate them from their shells.<\/p>\n

An entree of Chicken Involuntini<\/em><\/strong> featured three lightly breaded chicken breasts stuffed with proscuitto ham, fontina cheese and sage served over spinach with a side of garlic butter pasta.\u00a0 The proscuitto, in particular, was de-fanged with no discernable taste, a commonality it had with the entire entree.\u00a0 Similarly mundane was an entree of grilled homemade Italian sausage<\/em> (mild and spicy) served with seasoned red potatoes. We couldn’t envision any self-respecting Italian restaurant in Chicago or Boston serving such lifeless sausage.<\/p>\n

Not even dessert could save the day.\u00a0 Not surprisingly considering our luck at Trombino’s, the chocolate delight<\/strong><\/em> (delizia al cioccolate), a French baked brownie topped with vanilla ice cream, Torani chocolate sauce and whipped cream didn’t leave much of a lasting impression either.<\/p>\n

A “third strike and you’re out” visit in 2006 resulted in the uneven performance we had come to expect from Trombino’s.\u00a0 An appetizer of stuffed clams<\/em><\/strong> was baked to a crusty, crumbly and desiccated brown.\u00a0 An order of lobster ravioli<\/em><\/strong> was so mind-numbingly boring in comparison to the Indigo Crow’s version of this entree that we wondered how Trombino’s could possibly have gone so wrong. Next time we want to “mangia bene” at an Italian restaurant, we’ll go elsewhere.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

One commonality among conservatives and liberals is an unwaivering belief that “their side” is right and the other side is pretty stupid. \u00a0Idealogues on both sides wonder how the other side can be so wrong in their thinking. They both wonder why people on the other side refuse to listen to reason and to truths that are so obvious. \u00a0On a bilateral basis, both sides stubbornly hold to their beliefs, refusing to concede any merit to any matter contrary to their own. \u00a0Partisan affiliations get tied up in personal identities. \u00a0Any attack on our strongly held beliefs is a personal attack on us…and our brains are built to protect the self. When our personal convictions and beliefs are attacked, we…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":67697,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,71,141],"tags":[1897,2524,2368,4195,1806,1514,4196],"class_list":["post-414","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-italian","category-new-mexico","tag-best-of-the-city","tag-bolognese","tag-bread","tag-chocolate-mousse","tag-lasagna","tag-spumoni","tag-trombinos-hamburgers"],"yoast_head":"\nTrombino's Bistro Italiano - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=414\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Trombino's Bistro Italiano - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"One commonality among conservatives and liberals is an unwaivering belief that “their side” is right and the other side is pretty stupid. \u00a0Idealogues on both sides wonder how the other side can be so wrong in their thinking. They both wonder why people on the other side refuse to listen to reason and to truths that are so obvious. \u00a0On a bilateral basis, both sides stubbornly hold to their beliefs, refusing to concede any merit to any matter contrary to their own. \u00a0Partisan affiliations get tied up in personal identities. \u00a0Any attack on our strongly held beliefs is a personal attack on us…and our brains are built to protect the self. 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