{"id":422,"date":"2011-05-08T05:09:51","date_gmt":"2011-05-08T11:09:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=422"},"modified":"2018-07-19T18:25:29","modified_gmt":"2018-07-20T00:25:29","slug":"vivace-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=422","title":{"rendered":"Vivace – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
\"Vivace,
<\/span> Vivace, one of the crown jewels of Albuquerque’s Nob Hill district<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

NOTE<\/strong>: After serving Albuquerque for more than sixteen years, Vivace closed its doors for the last time on May26, 2012.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

Patrons of the Santa Fe Opera<\/a> recognize Vivace as a musical composition or movement in a lively, brisk or vivid tempo. \u00a0The rest of us whose only experiences with classical music come from from watching a wascally wabbit being pursued by a red-faced Elmer Fudd may have heard the fast tempo of Vivace numerous times, but had no clue what it was we were listening to other than that the frenetic upbeat tempo matched the intensity of the chase.<\/span><\/p>\n

What most savvy diners in Albuquerque and beyond do know is that Vivace has long been one of the very best Italian restaurants in the Duke City area since it opened in 1996 at the former site of the Nob Hill Bistro. \u00a0When it first launched, Vivace was awash in the colors of the Italian flag–bright reds, whites and greens, a color palette which belied a sophisticated menu featuring the cuisine from throughout Italy. \u00a0Red and white checkerboard tablecloths and a mirrored west wall added to the stereotypical template generally associated with bad meat sauce Italian restaurants and faux Italian chains. \u00a0Fortunately, in the evening votive candles and their intimate illumination gave the restaurant a more dignified feel.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
<\/span> The main dining room at Vivace during a rare moment–it’s not crowded<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In 2006, the restaurant added a handsome black and burgundy wine bar, expanded seating capabilities to over one-hundred and even added a private dining area.\u00a0 An interior archway connected the bar with the restaurant’s main seating area.\u00a0 The stereotypical red, green and white colors of the Italian flag were replaced with warm and welcoming terra-cotta colored walls. \u00a0Although Vivace’s next door Nob Hill neighbor is a tattoo and piercing parlor whose squalid window displays leave nothing to the imagination, Vivace embodies the consummate, classy and intimate Italian trattoria.<\/span><\/p>\n

The founder and chef at Vivace was Gordon Schutte, a seasoned restauranteur who has been in the restaurant business for more than thirty years. A prolific impresario who has worked in or owned more than a dozen restaurants, Schutte has a passion for authentic Italian cuisine. A whirling dervish who made Vivace a veritable pantheon for the celebration of fine Italian cuisine at its very best, Schutte’s meticulous attention to detail and unbridled passion for quality and authenticity may have been unrivaled in the Duke City. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Red
<\/span> Red pepper focaccia at Vivace<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In 2008, Schutte sold his restaurant, ostensibly to retire to his home in Edgewood. \u00a0He kept the restaurant in the family, selling it to Joey Minarsich, his stepson who literally worked his way up from the very bottom. \u00a0Minarsich actually started working at Vivace as a high school sophomore, working his way up from dishwasher to line cook at the now defunct Cafe Spoleto and La Piazza (two of his stepfather’s restaurants) to owner of Vivace. <\/span><\/p>\n

Minarsich has made a few changes to the menu, adding risotto, gnocchi and ravioli (three items his stepfather steadfastly refused to serve)\u00a0to the impressive array of pastas,. \u00a0If anything, those additions may have improved a menu which was already among the city’s very best for Italian food. \u00a0Some things haven’t changed. \u00a0Every dish is still made from scratch and isn’t prepared until someone orders it. \u00a0The fish, veal, beef and other meats are still of high quality and daily specials are still imaginative and delicious. \u00a0Vivace is also now open for lunch on Saturdays though the Duke City dining public may not realize this based on the restaurant’s stark emptiness during a visit in October, 2009.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Red
<\/span> Red Pepper Puree<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

At Vivace, you won’t experience the olfactory bombardment of garlic-laden tomato sauces as at some Italian restaurants in which subtlety is lost on its dishes.\u00a0 Your nostrils will instead revel in the subtle bouquet of precisely grilled meats, exquisitely prepared seafood and yes, steaming bowls of pasta.\u00a0 Vivace’s sauces are typically understated, allowing for true discernment of quality ingredients married harmoniously in generous but not overwhelming portions.<\/span><\/p>\n

Instead of garlic laced bread, a basket of focaccia or even better, red pepper infused focaccia is presented shortly after you’re seated. \u00a0The bread is a bit on the salty side, but that is easily diffused with a little olive oil, a drizzle of Balsamic vinegar and a spoonful or two of shaved Parmegiano. \u00a0The bread is also an excellent vehicle for dredging the bottom of a bowl of soup.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
<\/span> Fritto Misto: Bay scallops, shrimp and calamari fried and served on greens with a lime and parsley dipping sauce<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

That soup might be a red pepper puree<\/em> (pictured above) which at first glance looks like a watered down tomato soup. \u00a0One taste, however, and there’s no mistaking the freshness of the red pepper, a type of bell pepper with more sweetness and less bitterness than its green sibling. \u00a0The soup is served hot, but not steaming, so you can enjoy it from the onset. \u00a0It’s a very nice soup.<\/span><\/p>\n

If the tomato basil soup<\/em> is the featured zuppa del giorno, don’t hesitate to ask for it even if it means foregoing an excellent dinner or Caesar salad. Rich, creamy and absolutely delicious, it is served piping hot and needs absolutely no condiments. That tomato basil soup has been known on occasion to be flecked with bits of sausage for an even more inspired taste experience.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Antipasti
<\/span> Antipasti Assortiti<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The primi piato (appetizer) section of the menu offers an intriguing adventure in decision-making. \u00a0We’ve often contemplated making a meal of three or four starters and dispensing with a main entree, but good as the appetizers are, it would almost be criminal not to partake of one of Vivace’s pastas or fish, fowl or meat entrees.<\/span><\/p>\n

You’ll want to contemplate the latter with Antipasti Asssortiti, cured Italian meats and cheeses with olives, peppers and a mushroom duxelle (finely minced mushrooms and olives akin to a tapenade). \u00a0Paper-thin shavings of parmesan; a triumvirate of sopressata, mortadella and salami; pepperoncini, green olives and caperberries made up the antipasti during one memorable meal. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Gnocchi
<\/span> Gnocchi con Rucola<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Perhaps the best introduction to Vivace is in the form of Cozze<\/em>, green lip mussels steamed in white wine and fish stock with pureed tomatoes, garlic, onions, herb and Sambuca (an Italian aniseed flavored liqueur).\u00a0 These magnificent mollusks are among the very best in the city.\u00a0 An attentive wait staff will faithfully replenish the housemade bread with which you’ll lustily dredge up the sauce (which may have you forever swearing off the saffron sauces which typically accompany mussels).<\/span><\/p>\n

Another seafood option sure to please is Vivace’s rendition of fritto misto<\/em>, generally meats, seafood or vegetable dipped in batter and deep-fried in olive oil. The seafood bounty showcases bay scallops, shrimp and calamari served on greens with a lime and parsley dipping sauce.\u00a0 Shrimp could be a descriptive adjective for the crispy crustacean, several of which you’ll need to spear to make a forkful.\u00a0 The calamari are tiny ringlets of deliciousness while the scallops are succulent and tender.\u00a0 The lime, parsley and red onion dipping sauce is sweeter than it is tangy.\u00a0 It’s a perfect foil for the seafood.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Rigatoni
<\/span> Rigatoni con salsa rosato<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

While the standard menu is replete with antipasti, plates of pasta a plenty as well as fish, fowl and meat entrees, the daily specials have consistently lured me away.\u00a0 Special aptly describes a pan-seared monkfish<\/em> served with an Amaretto cream sauce that was dessert rich and mildly sweet.\u00a0 The fish had a sweet flavor and texture vaguely reminiscent of lobster tail meat.\u00a0 It is served garlic mashed potatoes and a saut\u00e9ed vegetable medley, two seemingly de rigueur accompaniments which are often left on the plate at other restaurants.\u00a0 At Vivace, you might be tempted to lick your plate clean.<\/span><\/p>\n

One of the new menu additions, the Gnocchi Con Rucola <\/em>(pan-fried potato gnocchi with slivered garlic and wilted arugula, Parmegiano Regianno and a light cream sauce)\u00a0is certainly a keeper. \u00a0Rucola, the Italian word for arugula, is a spicy, peppery, potent and aromatic salad green that has long been popular in Italy, but rarely used imaginatively in America (salads don’t count). \u00a0The Rucola provides a very interesting contrast to the deep richness of the gnocchi and the cream sauce.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
<\/span> Rigatoni Garibaldi Ala Vivace: Rigatoni pasta tossed with chicken, mushrooms, onions, garlic in a creamy marsala sauce<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

My favorite of the pasta dishes is the Rigatoni con Salsa Rosato<\/em>, spicy Italian sausage and chopped rosemary tossed with rigatoni pasta in a tomato cream sauce. \u00a0The Italian sausage comes from Tully’s Deli & Meats<\/a>, a long-time Albuquerque purveyor of hot and sweet Italian sausages, all ground from 100-percent pork enhanced with traditional spices and herbs. \u00a0It is terrific, but so is the rigatoni, tube-shaped pasta prepared to perfection which is just a tad more done than al dente. \u00a0The tomato cream sauce is light and subtle, the tomato in perfect proportion to the cream. \u00a0This is a wonderful dish, one of many on the menu.<\/span><\/p>\n

The pasta dish with the most personality is likely the Ravioli Di Gamberi Alla Diavalo<\/em>, shrimp stuffed ravioli in a spicy tomato sauce with parsley, garlic and lemon.\u00a0 Unlike the more conventional tablet-shaped ravioli, Vivace’s version are in the shape of a mezzaluna which means half moon in Italian.\u00a0 Each ravioli is engorged with fresh and succulent shrimp tossed with chopped tomatoes, parsley, garlic and lemon instead of a more conventional sauce.\u00a0 It’s a welcome departure from the over-sauced, over-seasoned diavalo-style sauce most restaurants serve.\u00a0 The spiciness in this version is noticeable, but not dominant.\u00a0 Instead, it melds with the tanginess of the tomato and the earthiness of the garlic.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
<\/span> Ravioli Di Gamberi All Diavola: Shrimp stuffed ravioli in a spicy tomato sauce with parsley, garlic and lemon.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Dessert options would tempt Job.\u00a0 The Diplomatica<\/em>, for example, is an artfully crafted layering of espresso soaked sponge cake and rich, semi-sweet chocolate mousse that we tried to savor slowly and make last longer, but it is so sinfully delicious that you won’t be able to help devouring it ravenously.\u00a0 With the exception of the creamy gelato, all desserts are housemade.<\/span><\/p>\n

The tiramisu is soft, light, moist and spongy with a slight mocha flavor complemented with a drizzle of chocolate for contrast.\u00a0 This is one of the very best tiramisu in Albuquerque, a delectable and delicate dessert.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
<\/span> Tiramisu<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Despite its name, a meal at Vivace is paced to be relaxed, not rushed. \u00a0Service is attentive and professional with a wait staff well-versed in the nuances of good services. \u00a0Vivace is simply one of Albuquerque’s top two or three best Italian restaurants and there’s no indication that will change anytime soon.<\/span><\/p>\n

Vivace<\/span><\/strong>
\n3118 Central, S.E.
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 8 May 2011
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 5
\nRATING<\/strong>: 22<\/span><\/strong>
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Cozze, Tomato Basil Soup, Diplomatica, Rigatoni con Salsa Rosato, Gnocchi con Rucola, Antipasti Assortiti<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

NOTE: After serving Albuquerque for more than sixteen years, Vivace closed its doors for the last time on May26, 2012. Patrons of the Santa Fe Opera recognize Vivace as a musical composition or movement in a lively, brisk or vivid tempo. \u00a0The rest of us whose only experiences with classical music come from from watching a wascally wabbit being pursued by a red-faced Elmer Fudd may have heard the fast tempo of Vivace numerous times, but had no clue what it was we were listening to other than that the frenetic upbeat tempo matched the intensity of the chase. What most savvy diners in Albuquerque and beyond do know is that Vivace has long been one of the very best…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":47131,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,595,262,71],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-422","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-closed-in-2012","category-closed","category-italian"],"yoast_head":"\nVivace - Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED) - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=422\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Vivace - Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED) - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"NOTE: After serving Albuquerque for more than sixteen years, Vivace closed its doors for the last time on May26, 2012. Patrons of the Santa Fe Opera recognize Vivace as a musical composition or movement in a lively, brisk or vivid tempo. \u00a0The rest of us whose only experiences with classical music come from from watching a wascally wabbit being pursued by a red-faced Elmer Fudd may have heard the fast tempo of Vivace numerous times, but had no clue what it was we were listening to other than that the frenetic upbeat tempo matched the intensity of the chase. 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Patrons of the Santa Fe Opera recognize Vivace as a musical composition or movement in a lively, brisk or vivid tempo. \u00a0The rest of us whose only experiences with classical music come from from watching a wascally wabbit being pursued by a red-faced Elmer Fudd may have heard the fast tempo of Vivace numerous times, but had no clue what it was we were listening to other than that the frenetic upbeat tempo matched the intensity of the chase. 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