{"id":43185,"date":"2023-04-14T00:01:48","date_gmt":"2023-04-14T06:01:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=43185"},"modified":"2025-10-16T08:11:26","modified_gmt":"2025-10-16T14:11:26","slug":"farmacy-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=43185","title":{"rendered":"The Farmacy – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)"},"content":{"rendered":"
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The Farmacy moved to its Nob Hill home in November, 2018<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In this age of “fake news,” biased media slants and unabashed tell-alls, the one recent headline which has pleased me most comes from Bloomberg<\/strong><\/a>. Splashed in bold typeface was the eye-catching lead “Mom-and-Pop Joints Are Trouncing America’s Big Restaurant Chains<\/em>.” Elaborating on this contention, the first paragraph reads: “Americans are rejecting the consistency of national restaurant chains after decades of dominance in favor of the authenticity of locally owned eateries, with their daily specials and Mom\u2019s watercolors decorating the walls<\/em>.” The numbers bear this out–“annual revenue for independents will grow about 5 percent through 2020, while the growth for chains will be about 3 percent<\/em>.” <\/p>\n

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The Front Dining Room With a View to the Counter<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Fittingly, I read this article during my inaugural visit to The Farmacy, a Lilliputian lair of luscious food then located on the southeast corner of the Mountain Road-Eighth Street intersection. If big restaurant chains and their well-heeled operations are the proverbial muscle-bound beach bullies who kick sand in the face of scrawny kids, The Farmacy embodies the small underdog who fights back with the only weapons at its disposal: great food and friendly service at an affordable price. The Farmacy is David to the Philistine\u2019s Goliath, the plodding tortoise to the overly confident hare, unknown journeyman Rocky Balboa to the world champion Apollo Creed. It\u2019s the little engine that could\u2026and does. <\/p>\n

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Rail Runner Reuben with Coleslaw<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

On my way out the door, I ran into Howie \u201cThe Duke of Duke City\u201d Kaibel<\/strong><\/a>, then the charismatic former \u00a0Albuquerque Community Manager for Yelp<\/strong><\/a>. The Bloomberg article I had just read credited \u201cfree-marketing websites such as Yelp<\/em>\u201d with boosting \u201cthe fortunes of independents in the age of McDonald\u2019s, Cracker Barrel, Domino\u2019s, Taco Bell, Olive Garden<\/em>\u2026\u201d Perhaps no one in Albuquerque did as much to evangelize for mom-and-pops as Howie did. It was his Yelp review<\/strong><\/a>, in fact, that prompted my visit to The Farmacy. The catalyst for his own inaugural visit was Yelp reviewers having accorded The Farmacy a perfect rating: \u201c5 stars at 50-plus reviews!\u201d (Naturally as soon as Howie noted this, a nay-sayer gave The Farmacy a rating of \u201c4.\u201d)<\/p>\n

Howie was (and still is) the Duke City dining scene\u2019s version of The Pied Piper. When he sings the praises of a restaurant, savvy readers beat the path to its doors. His prose is poetic, his rhetoric rhapsodic. Here\u2019s what he wrote that lured me to The Farmacy. \u201cThe reuben is indeed what you’re looking forward to in a dinosaur-esque luncheon, you’re just kind of clawing, mawing and ultimately grabbing various business cards with square edges to dislodge pastrami from your teeth, it’s a damn fine sammie, on par with one of my faves at Bocadillos <\/em>.\u201d Frankly, he had me at dinosaur-esque, but the clincher was his comparison of The Farmacy\u2019s Reuben to Bocadillo\u2019s<\/strong><\/a>. <\/p>\n

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Large Hot Chocolate<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

At its first home, The Farmacy was the archetypal neighborhood mom-and-pop restaurant. Situated in the historical Sawmill District, it was ensconced in a residential neighborhood which often meant having to park in front of someone\u2019s home. A home is exactly what The Farmacy once was, albeit a very small home. From very small home to very small restaurant with seating (on two-top tables) for about a dozen guests, it was a great place for breakfast or lunch.\u00a0 Just before Thanksgiving in 2018, Farmacy fanatics had another reason to give thanks when The Farmacy moved to a larger space on Central Avenue in the Nob Hill district.\u00a0 Now situated in the space which was once home to Serafin’s Chile Hut<\/strong><\/a> and a number of other short-lived restaurants, The Farmacy probably quadrupled its previous size.<\/p>\n

Even with its greater seating capacity and greatly expanded menu, The Farmacy remains at heart, the quintessential neighborhood restaurant. Coffee and tea are listed first on an expansive menu sure to win you over. Though the listed coffees include latte, cappuccino, mocha, cortado, macchiato, espresso, Americano and drip coffee, my inaugural visit was on a hot chocolate<\/em><\/strong>kind of day. You know the type\u2014the New Mexico sun shining brightly while angry winds blow as if seeking revenge. Eight items, most of which will be familiar to habitues of The Farmacy’s former home, festoon the breakfast section of the menu–not counting a very intriguing six-item waffle menu.\u00a0 Lunch is comprised of six items, mostly sandwiches. <\/p>\n

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Savory Empanada<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

19 May 2017<\/strong>: It goes without saying that the Rail Runner Reuben <\/strong><\/em>Howie Kaibel described so well, was destined for my table. Aside from its dinosaur-esque proportions, what stands out best and most about this Reuben are the terms \u201chouse made corned beef<\/em>\u201d and \u201chouse made sauerkraut<\/em>.\u201d You can certainly taste the difference between corned beef that\u2019s been lovingly made in small batches and the mass quantities produced by corporate delis (and served by the chains). The Farmacy\u2019s corned beef is imbued with a moist, tender texture. It pulls apart easily. (Some corporate delis produce corned beef with the texture of rigor-mortis.) Deep flavors bursting with subtle seasonings (it may sound like a contradiction, but it isn\u2019t) are the hallmark of The Farmacy\u2019s corned beef. It\u2019s not at all salty and when you discern notes of cloves, you may shut your eyes in appreciation. The sauerkraut has a slight tang, but it\u2019s not of the lip-pursing variety that defeats all other flavors. The canvas for this sandwich masterpiece is fresh marble rye. <\/p>\n

20 May 2017<\/strong>: One of the few telltale signs that you\u2019re at The Farmacy is a wooden sign depicting an anatomical diagram of a pig, essentially showing where all the porcine deliciousness can be found. Think of that sign as a precursor to a terrific sandwich constructed of two terrific pork-based cold-cuts. Even the sandwich\u2019s name hints of pork. It\u2019s the Porcellino<\/strong><\/em> (ham, Capocollo, olive tapenade, Provolone, picked red onion and greens on focaccia) and it\u2019s a memorable masterpiece. Aside from the ham and Capocollo, the olive tapenade and picked red onion are notable. So is the accompanying housemade mojo slaw which has a nice tang and none of the cloying creaminess of so many slaws. <\/p>\n

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Cinnamon Roll<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

20 May 2017<\/strong>: If Delish is to be believed, the \u201cmost-searched food\u201d <\/a><\/strong>in New Mexico\u2014what New Mexicans want most to know how to make–is empanadas. You need not search any further than The Farmacy for a superb empanada. It\u2019s a made-from-scratch-daily savory empanada<\/strong><\/em>and if our inaugural experience is any indication, you\u2019ll want the recipe. Our savory empanada was stuffed with sweet potatoes, green chile, bacon and walnuts). Despite the sweet potatoes, it was indeed savory with a melding of ingredients that just sang. The crust is especially memorable. <\/p>\n

20 May 2017<\/strong>: Though not listed on the menu, you\u2019ll want to peruse the counter for such pastries as muffins and cinnamon rolls. This cinnamon roll<\/strong><\/em>isn\u2019t a behemoth brick with troweled-on icing. It\u2019s a knotty, twisty, tender, doughy roll with cinnamon in every crevice. It\u2019s glazed with an angelic icing, but it\u2019s not overly sweet. This is not a cinnamon roll meant to be shared, not that you\u2019d want to. It\u2019s a cinnamon roll you (and any dining companions you may have brought with you) will want for yourself and themselves.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Green Chile Grits<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

20 May 2017<\/strong>: Much as I enjoyed the Reuben, after two visits my very favorite item on the menu was the migas (a scramble of corn tortilla, bacon, egg, red and green chile, Cheddar, tomato and cilantro). Very few restaurants we\u2019ve frequented prepare migas you\u2019ll want to experience a second time. The Farmacy\u2019s migas<\/strong><\/em>are some of the very best in Albuquerque, if not the state. The corn tortillas are crispy yet light and all ingredients are in perfect proportion to each other. The highlight is the chile\u2014green mixed in with the other ingredients all encircled by a fiery ring of red. This is chile that bites you back, an endorphin-generating chile you\u2019ll love. <\/p>\n

19 February 2019<\/strong>:\u00a0 Visit The Farmacy’s Facebook page and you’ll learn its motto is “Soothing the Savage Mind…With Food<\/em>.”\u00a0 Never mind the savage mind.\u00a0 The Farmacy’s food even surmounts the most mundane of Mondays, especially when the special of the day is a transcendent green chile grits<\/strong><\/em> (green chile Cheddar cheese grits topped with chopped Andouille sausage, fried egg and scallions served with toast).\u00a0 Grits, an exemplar of true Southern comfort, are starting to catch on in New Mexico, their versatility showcased by talented chefs who consider them a blank canvas for other delicious ingredients…and is there anything in the world as delicious as green chile and Cheddar.\u00a0 The Andouille actually had more bite than the green chile, but together the pairing is sure to get your attention.\u00a0 So are the scallions which aren’t chopped into tiny ringlets, but served in a leafy entirety.\u00a0 The fried egg is a nice touch. <\/p>\n

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Pork Belly Grits Bowl<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

14 April 2023<\/strong>: In the 1983 hit comedy movie Trading Places, Dan Aykroyd portrayed Louis Winthorpe III, a commodities broker for Duke & Duke, a prestigious firm in Philadelphia. \u00a0As Winthorpe, Aykroyd uttered one of my very favorite lines from the movie: ” Pork bellies \u00a0I have a hunch something very exciting is going to happen in the pork belly market this morning<\/em>.” \u00a0Winthorpe must have been prescient? \u00a0Somehow he predicted not only the explosion of the pork belly market, but the exciting things The Farmacy would do with pork belly in the morning. \u00a0 <\/p>\n

While the green chile grits dish I raved about are no longer on the menu, an even better option is–and the featured protein is Winthorpe’s pork belly. \u00a0The pork belly grits bowl<\/strong><\/em> (green chile Cheddar cheese corn grits, pork belly, sunny side-up egg, crispy fried prosciutto, scallions served with toast) is a magnificent breakfast dish, especially if you like a medley on your plate. \u00a0Indeed, this dish is probably intended to be a mishmash of everything on the plate coming together so that each forkful rewards you with a diversity of flavors–the runny egg mixing with the green chile Cheddar grits, the crispy fried prosciutto lending a bit of saltiness. \u00a0Then there’s the pork belly, an elevated cousin of bacon that Winthorpe predicted would be the “something very exciting” in the morning.<\/p>\n

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Farmacy Burger<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

14 April 2023<\/strong>: \u00a0Readers of Gil’s Thrilling know I frequently get hung up on words–their etymology, use, meaning, etc. \u00a0So when I see that the Farmacy Burger<\/strong><\/em> (green chile, Cheddar cheese, diablo sauce on a toasted brioche bun) has two ingredients that ostensibly make this burger one with real heat, I fixate on the word “diablo<\/em>.” \u00a0Diablo is the Spanish word for “devil” is evil incarnate, the fallen angel. Obviously on the Farmacy Burger, diablo is a metaphor for piquancy and assertiveness. \u00a0Just think of all the cowboy movies you’ve seen. \u00a0The meanest horse that just won’t be broken is invariably named Diablo. \u00a0Similarly, \u201cfra diavolo<\/em>,\u201d meaning \u201cbrother devil<\/em>\u201d is the most piquant of all Italian dishes. \u00a0 <\/p>\n

Obviously my expectations of diablo sauce were pretty high. \u00a0To me pain is a flavor and heat is a trigger for delightful endorphin boosts that make my taste buds deliriously happy. \u00a0Alas, the diablo sauce was more akin to a spicy mayo than to napalm. \u00a0Still, the Farmacy Burger is outstanding! \u00a0It’s not just good. \u00a0It’s a burger I’ll order again. \u00a0The beef patty is hand-formed and seasoned wonderfully. \u00a0The green chile and diablo sauce pair to provide a pleasant piquancy for which asbestos coated taste buds are not required. \u00a0Fresh greens and two perfectly sliced tomatoes are provided, but they only get in the way of the concentrated deliciousness that is the beef. <\/p>\n

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Lemmy Waffle<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

16 April 2023<\/strong>: Culinary historians believe Thomas Jefferson, the third President of the United States and a pioneering gastronome, brought the first long-handled waffle iron to America in 1789. About 80 years later, in 1869, a Dutch-American called Cornelius Swarthout was granted a patent for the first waffle iron in the U.S. August 24th. \u00a0The day this patent was granted, today is celebrated as National Waffle Day. Like American pancakes, waffles are usually served as a sweet breakfast food, topped with butter and maple syrup, bacon, and other fruit syrups, honey, or powdered sugar. \u00a0Moreover, waffles generally have more butter and sugar in the batter and become more caramelized during cooking, so they taste a little richer and more pastry-like. <\/p>\n

In the 21st Century, an exploration exploded into the diversity and potential of the waffle as a savory dish. \u00a0Restaurants such as Tia Betty Blue’s<\/strong><\/a> and its younger sibling Tia B’s La Waffleria<\/strong><\/a> were pioneers in the art and science of using waffles as a platform for savory ingredients. \u00a0Then came The Farmacy whose menu lists four sumptuous savory waffles. \u00a0During her inaugural visit to The Farmacy, \u00a0our friend Lynn Garner, a fellow culinary explorer, was jonesing for waffles, but not just any waffles. \u00a0Her choice was the curiously named Lemmy<\/strong><\/em> (ham and cheese inside a buttermilk waffle topped with b\u00e9chamel, a sunny side up egg and scallions). \u00a0While quite good, it was greatly improved with the addition of maple syrup, the mystical melding of sweet and savory flavors. \u00a0Waffles may be great in both sweet and savory instantiations, but may be all they can be when both sweet and savory. <\/p>\n

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Green Chile Biscuit With Butter and Jam<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

16 April 2023<\/strong>: The Farmacy offers one of the most unique takes on a Southern favorite, biscuits and gravy you’ll find in the Duke City area. \u00a0Named “Duke City Biscuit & Gravy” (green chile, Cheddar and egg baked inside a buttermilk biscuit with house made gravy). \u00a0Having lived in the Deep South (Mississippi) for eight years, we contemplated how this would go over in Dixie. \u00a0Would our Southern friends consider it sacrilege or would they embrace it like they do Country music? \u00a0 As with all foods, there’s no generalization. \u00a0Some would love it, others would wave a white flag at the piquancy of the green chile. \u00a0Though I didn’t order the Duke City Biscuit & Gravy, I frequently ask for a biscuit on the side of whatever I order. \u00a0The green chile biscuit<\/strong><\/em> is terrific though it crumbles and falls apart easily, making it a challenge to spread butter and jam. \u00a0 <\/p>\n

16 April 2023<\/strong>: \u00a0Could it be the failed attempt to showcase muffins in a restaurant named “Top of the Muffin” may be behind the reason you just don’t find many (if any) muffin restaurants across the fruited plain? \u00a0Sure, that legendary Seinfeld may have pointed out the pitfalls muffins face–namely that most people only like the top part of the muffin, but surely there are enough of us who love the muffin in its entirety to warrant ONE muffin restaurant. \u00a0The Farmacy’s blueberry muffin<\/strong><\/em> would certainly be a good start. \u00a0It’s moist and delicious with plenty of blueberries. \u00a0Moreover, it’s not just the top of the muffin with which you’ll fall in love. \u00a0 <\/p>\n

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Blueberry Muffin<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Chef-owner Jacob Elliot is a peripatetic presence at the restaurant. Though filling orders occupies much of his time, he meets-and-greets when the opportunity presents itself. He’s passionate about his locally sustainable operation and is bullish on Albuquerque, a city he believes has many of the same qualities as Portland, a city in which he once lived and worked. It’s Albuquerque’s gain.<\/p>\n

The Farmacy is the antithesis of the behemoth chain restaurants. If you love fresh, made-from-scratch, locally sourced deliciousness at very reasonable prices, this is a restaurant for you. It exemplifies the reasons mom-and-pop are finally starting to gain ground. <\/p>\n

The Farmacy<\/strong>
\n3718 Central Avenue, S.E.
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 14 April 2023
\n1st VISIT<\/strong>: 19 May 2017
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 4
\nRATING<\/strong>: 23
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Migas, Rail Runner Reuben, Porcellino, Cinnamon Roll, Hot Chocolate, Coleslaw, Savory Empanada, Green Chile Grits, Pharmacy Burger, The Lemmy, Green Chile Biscuit, Blueberry Muffin< \n\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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