{"id":44924,"date":"2022-07-22T21:38:58","date_gmt":"2022-07-23T03:38:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=44924"},"modified":"2022-12-03T16:11:19","modified_gmt":"2022-12-03T22:11:19","slug":"acre-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=44924","title":{"rendered":"The Acre – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
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The Acre, Vegetarian Comfort Food Carnivores Will Love<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Toula<\/strong>: Actually, um Ian\u2019s a<\/i><\/span> <\/i>vegetarian<\/i><\/span>. Uh, he doesn\u2019t eat meat<\/i><\/span>.
\nAunt Voula<\/strong>: He don\u2019t eat no meat? HE DON\u2019T EAT NO MEAT?! *Long silence* Oh that’s ok, I make lamb.<\/i>
\n~Big Fat Greek Wedding<\/strong>
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

A cross-sectional study conducted in 2006 by medical researchers in Austria concluded that \u201cvegetarians are less healthy and have a lower quality of life than meat-eaters<\/em>\u201d and that \u201cthere is an association between a vegetarian diet and an increased risk of certain chronic diseases<\/em>.\u201d The \u201cchronic diseases\u201d cited in the study were allergies, cancer and mental illness. While this study and its methodologies have largely been discredited, my former colleague Matt Mauler, a fanatical meat-and-potatoes paramour, likes to cite this study when someone \u201cpreaches\u201d the virtues of vegetarianism. He especially revels in emphasizing the part about mental illness. \u201cYou\u2019ve got to be crazy not to love cheeseburgers, steak and pork chops<\/em>,\u201d he snorts with derision.<\/span><\/p>\n

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The Dining Room<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The only vegetables Matt likes are those with which he tops his favorite comfort foods: pizza (lots of mushrooms and black olives followed by a six-pack chaser), burgers (only lettuce unless you consider bacon and cheese vegetables) and Chicago hot dogs (enough sport peppers to choke a dragon). Every other vegetable may as well be hemlock, poison ivy or poison sumac. Though he disagrees vehemently with Anthony Bourdain’s “commie” politics, Matt celebrated when the celebrity chef, author and television host called vegetarians \u201cthe enemy of everything good and decent in the human spirit, an affront to all I stand for, the pure enjoyment of food<\/em>.\u201d Similarly, Matt has always loathed Lady Gaga, but praised her fashion sense when she donned a dress made of raw beef at the 2010 MTV Video Music Awards.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Cheeseburger with Chips<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Surprisingly, Matt\u2019s attitude (and that of Anthony Bourdain) toward vegetarians isn\u2019t uncommon\u2026and attitudes are even more visceral toward vegans. The internet is rife with rancorous railing against the 3.2 percent of adults (an estimated 7.3 million people, including about 1 million vegans) across the fruited plain who follow a vegetarian- or vegan-based diet. It\u2019s as if the pursuit of life, liberty and happiness guaranteed in the Declaration of Independence should exclude \u201cthose v. people.\u201d As with all stereotypes, much of Matt\u2019s enmity toward vegetarians and vegans is based on the perception of a threat to a belief system\u2014in this case, his belief that \u201cif God didn\u2019t mean for us to eat animals, He wouldn\u2019t have made them out of meat.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n

Should Matt ever read this review, he\u2019ll probably \u201chave a cow\u201d (wouldn\u2019t that be appropriate?) to learn about The Acre, an Albuquerque vegetarian restaurant with the audacity to describe its cuisine (not the word he\u2019d use) as \u201ccomfort food,\u201d and worse to declare that its \u201cfresh, hearty, traditional American cuisine\u201d will \u201csatisfy even the most devoted carnivore.\u201d Being a staunch, unwavering meat-eater, he would view those assertions as \u201cfighting words\u201d or \u201cblasphemy\u201d but would never consider taking it as a challenge to sample the cuisine, if only to prove his contentions as to how bad vegetarian food is. Nope, readers of Gil\u2019s Thrilling\u2026 will never see Matt\u2019s shadow cross over The Acre\u2019s doors. You\u2019re not missing much.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Roasted Butternut Squash, Gorgonzola Cream, Pi\u00f1on, Parmesan<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

You are, however, missing some of the very best vegetarian food in Albuquerque if you don\u2019t visit The Acre, where as we discovered, those claims of \u201ccomfort food\u201d and \u201csatisfying devoted carnivores,\u201d are all true. My friend and colleague Elaine and I had to do a double-take when we perused the menu which was teeming with some of Matt’s comfort food favorites: cheeseburger, grilled cheese, mac n’ cheese, enchiladas and more. Also available were vegetarian versions of a hot dog (marinated, braised carrot dogs), meat (less) loaf and several sandwiches which sound so good, you might not miss meat at all.<\/span><\/p>\n

The Acre is the brainchild of executive chef-owner Sean Weed, a former private chef in New York and 26-year veteran of the restaurant industry. Nostalgia –memories of time spent as a youth at his grandparents’ farm in Pennsylvania where true fresh “farm to table” food was grown and served–provided the impetus for his restaurant. Situated in a 1,440 square-foot space, part of which previously housed the India Palace, The Acre is seasonal, local and in this omnivore’s estimation, so good it defies labels. It’s the antithesis of the stereotypical vegetarian restaurants which showcase tofu, sprouts and kale (and which help perpetuate beliefs of folks like Matt).<\/span><\/p>\n

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Fresh Peach Crumble with Snickerdoodle Ice Cream<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In March, 2022, the Food Network aired an episode of Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives<\/strong> <\/a>in which The Acre was one of three featured restaurants.\u00a0It may surprise you to learn that Triple D host Guy Fieri is a huge fan of vegan and vegetarian cooking, having been introduced to it by his late sister Morgan. \u00a0Chef Sean Weed surprised Fieri by admitting \u201cno, not at all<\/em>\u201d when asked if he was vegetarian or vegan. \u00a0Chef Weed indicated he wanted to do something innovative, but comfortable and familiar. \u00a0He\u2019s an advocate for doing a couple meals a week without meat. \u00a0Chef Weed\u2019s take on vegetarian meatloaf, a melange of ingredients, blew Fieri away with its umami and flavor. \u00a0\u201cIt\u2019s really good<\/em>,\u201d Fieri declared. \u00a0The buffalo cauliflower wings with vegan ranch dressing \u201ceats like a really good chicken tender<\/em>\u201d according to Fieri who called the dish \u201cindulgent<\/em>.\u201d \u00a0He summed up his experience: \u201cIf you can\u2019t find something to eat at Acre, you\u2019re just not hungry<\/em>.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

4 January 2018<\/strong>: It hasn’t been for lack of trying that I’ve never enjoyed a vegetarian burger. Most range from barely edible to downright awful. The Acre’s cheeseburger<\/strong><\/em> propels all the others into my repository of bad memories. The “beef” substitute is a beet-black bean combination which might not make you forget your favorite 80-percent lean ground chuck to 20-percent fat content ratio, but it shouldn’t. It’s very good on its own with a moistness and flavor yes, even carnivores will enjoy. The burger also includes Cheddar, avocado, lettuce, tomato and onion with mustard and ketchup on the side. It’s served with potato chips.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Green Chile Apple Crisp with Snickerdoodle Ice Cream<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

4 January 2018<\/strong>: From among the “mains” section of the menu, deciding whether to have mac n’ cheese, enchiladas or pasta will prove a challenge akin to selecting one favorite from among your three favorite Dallas Cowboys. Ultimately, the seasonality of the pasta dish won me over. Though labeled strictly “pasta<\/strong><\/em>” on the menu, this dish is so much more: roasted butternut squash, Gorgonzola cream, pi\u00f1on and Parmesan. Frankly, the dish had me at “roasted butternut squash,” a very underrated ingredient at Duke City restaurants. Vibrant, sweet, creamy and earthy, the roasted butternut squash, cut into small cubes, melds wonderfully with the sharp and robust Gorgonzola cream and nuttiness of the Parmesan. This dish is reminiscent of so many rich, delicious pasta dishes found at Italian restaurants.<\/span><\/p>\n

4 January 2018<\/strong>: The Acre’s five desserts (as well as cookies and milk and an ice cream of the day) alone might convert carnivores to a life of vegetarianism…or at least to increased open-mindedness. Elaine’s choice was the Fresh peach crumble<\/strong><\/em> (brown sugar, vanilla). Though fresh peaches were a bit out of season, at least they weren’t canned…and who doesn’t love a good crumble. For someone who espouses green chile as an ingredient which goes well with everything including desserts, my only logical choice was the green chile apple crisp<\/strong><\/em> showcasing Hatch green chile. It was a bit too incendiary for Elaine’s tastes, but perfect for this fire-eater. Besides, the snickerdoodle ice cream was there to quell any burn.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

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Comfort Dogs<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

17 December 2018<\/strong>:There\u2019s such a wide political and cultural schism across the fruited plain that it sometimes appears opposing ideologies just can\u2019t and won\u2019t agree on anything.\u00a0 That is, until the Washington Post published a recipe for charred and steamed hot dogs made from carrots.\u00a0 Readers across the political spectrum reacted with rancor, derision and threats of bodily harm.\u00a0 Conservative talk shows and liberal comedy shows alike mocked the faux hot dog premise.\u00a0\u00a0 Whether this divisive issue portends the ascendancy of a national platform or candidate to unite the country remains to be seen.\u00a0\u00a0 Matt Mauler, of course, would side with traditionalists who prefer all the nitrates, nitrites and sodium in \u201cregular\u201d hot dogs.\u00a0 Your humble blogger, on the other hand, would never kick a carrot dog off my table.<\/span><\/p>\n

17 December 2018<\/strong>: Sure I\u2019ve read all the literature which claims \u201cthey actually look and taste like a hot dog, but they\u2019re much healthier<\/em>,\u201d but until my second visit to The Acre, the concept of carrot dogs seemed rather ethereal, like a ghost. Let me tell you right off. The Acre’s comfort dogs<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0don\u2019t taste exactly like a hot dog, but they\u2019re better than many I\u2019ve had\u2026and they\u2019re certainly not the raw carrot shoved inside a hot dog bun you might perceive. Nor are the carrots simply boiled to a mushy consistency. Texturally they\u2019re the consistency of a hot dog even going so far as having a little snap. The Acre\u2019s menu indicates they\u2019re \u201cmarinated and braised\u201d and served with the \u201cclassic fixings\u201d (mustard, ketchup). That marinade imbues them with a smoky flavor (maybe liquid smoke) that sneaks through. The buns are lightly toasted and soft. My in-laws in Chicago would probably disown me if I ever had a \u201creal\u201d hot dog with ketchup, but they’d probably forgive me if they saw me enjoy a carrot dog. \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Spicy Pumpkin-Coconut Soup<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

22 July 2022<\/strong>: Predictably the very first thing my Chicago born-and-bred Kim noticed about the comfort dog was the ketchup. \u00a0“Didn’t the menu say it was served with the classic fixings<\/em>?” she railed. \u00a0“There’s nothing classic about ketchup unless you’re Teresa Heinz<\/strong><\/a><\/em>.”\u00a0 Okay, so she didn’t like the fact that the comfort dog had ketchup, but I hoped she would like it otherwise.\u00a0 Alas, only one of us in the Garduno family is like “Mikey<\/strong><\/a>” of the Life Cereal commercials and it’s not her.\u00a0 While I tend to like everything (except tea), my Kim is much more “discerning” and tends to have a somewhat “less accepting palate.”\u00a0 She sent the comfort dogs back before I could grab them.<\/span><\/p>\n

17 December 2018<\/strong>: It’s never too early to remind readers that on the Saturday preceding some much ballyhooed professional football game, the Roadrunner Foodbank will be hosting Souper Bowl<\/strong><\/a>, its annual soup and dessert fund-raising event.\u00a0 More than 1,200 people flock to the Food Bank facility to enjoy wonderful soups created by restaurants from throughout the metro area. Here\u2019s hoping The Acre\u2019s spicy coconut pumpkin soup<\/strong><\/em> is entered into the competition. This is a magnificent elixir, the type of soup you want to arm yourself with to combat winter\u2019s cold. It certainly lives up to its \u201cspicy\u201d descriptor courtesy of curry, cayenne, ginger and other spices. Moreover, it’s a delicious soup, one of the best this nine-time Souper Bowl judge has had in 2018.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Cauliflower Wings<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

22 July 2022<\/strong>:\u00a0 Although my Kim may not have liked the comfort dogs, she did love the cauliflower wings<\/strong> <\/em>(fried breaded cauliflower, celery, carrots, vegan ranch, choice of classic red hot buffalo or barbecue sauce).\u00a0 Unlike alligator, frog legs and rattlesnake, the cauliflower wings did not taste like chicken<\/strong><\/a>.\u00a0 They tasted like five glorious florets of lightly breaded and perfectly fried cauliflower.\u00a0 The light batter easily gives way to a delightful crunch with a good sharp bite and a sweet-savory flavor with just ever so slight better aftertones.\u00a0 Both sauces are quite good.\u00a0 The barbecue sauce has smoky notes while the red hot buffalo had pronounced tanginess courtesy of vinegar chased by a pleasant piquancy resultant from the infusion of hot peppers.\u00a0 On Superbowl Sunday when wings are consumed by the millions, vegetarians need not ever feel left out.<\/span><\/p>\n

22 July 2022<\/strong>: When Food Network glitterati Guy Fieri visited The Acre, he was “blown away<\/em>” by the umami and flavor of the meat(less) loaf<\/strong><\/em> (signature chickpea portabello loaf, house made bbq sauce, onion strings, mashed potatoes, sauteed seasonal vegetables\u00a0 \u201cIt\u2019s really good<\/em>,\u201d Fieri declared.\u00a0 I can second the mayor of Flavortown’s opinion.\u00a0 It’s really good!\u00a0 Again, it doesn’t exactly taste like a traditional meatloaf, but it has the same properties that make meatloaf a comfort food favorite. It also doesn’t have any of the brick-like density of some meatloaf and none of the dryness of meatloaf that’s been in the oven too long. This is a delicious and moist slab of palate-pleasing meatloaf you don’t have to be vegetarian to enjoy. Only a hearty dredge of gravy was missing; surely there’s a vegetarian gravy somewhere out there.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Meat(Less)Loaf<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Vegetarian food for carnivores? You bet! The Acre’s vegetarian food is food for everyone who appreciates fresh, local and thoroughly delicious food.<\/span><\/p>\n

The Acre<\/strong>
\n4410 Wyoming, N.E.
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 22 July 2022
\n1st VISIT<\/strong>: 4 January 2018
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 3
\nRATING<\/strong>: 21
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Cheeseburger, Roasted Butternut Squash Pasta, Green Chile Apple Crisp, Peach Cobbler, Spicy Pumpkin-Coconut Soup, Comfort Dogs, Meat(less) Loaf, Cauliflower Wings
\nRESTAURANT REVIEW #1018<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Toula: Actually, um Ian\u2019s a vegetarian. Uh, he doesn\u2019t eat meat. Aunt Voula: He don\u2019t eat no meat? HE DON\u2019T EAT NO MEAT?! *Long silence* Oh that’s ok, I make lamb. ~Big Fat Greek Wedding A cross-sectional study conducted in 2006 by medical researchers in Austria concluded that \u201cvegetarians are less healthy and have a lower quality of life than meat-eaters\u201d and that \u201cthere is an association between a vegetarian diet and an increased risk of certain chronic diseases.\u201d The \u201cchronic diseases\u201d cited in the study were allergies, cancer and mental illness. While this study and its methodologies have largely been discredited, my former colleague Matt Mauler, a fanatical meat-and-potatoes paramour, likes to cite this study when someone \u201cpreaches\u201d the…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":61124,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,1649,1762,544,262,141,570],"tags":[2163,1868,1760,2160,1761,1701,749,2162,2161,1758,1759],"class_list":["post-44924","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-closed-in-2022","category-diners-drive-ins-and-dives","category-food-network-eats-new-mexico","category-closed","category-new-mexico","category-vegetarianvegan","tag-cauliflower-wings","tag-cheeseburger","tag-chef-sean-weed","tag-comfort-dog","tag-comfort-food","tag-diners-drive-ins-and-dives","tag-guy-fieri","tag-housemade-chips","tag-meatless-loaf","tag-vegan","tag-vegetarian"],"yoast_head":"\nThe Acre - Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED) - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=44924\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Acre - Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED) - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Toula: Actually, um Ian\u2019s a vegetarian. Uh, he doesn\u2019t eat meat. Aunt Voula: He don\u2019t eat no meat? HE DON\u2019T EAT NO MEAT?! *Long silence* Oh that’s ok, I make lamb. ~Big Fat Greek Wedding A cross-sectional study conducted in 2006 by medical researchers in Austria concluded that \u201cvegetarians are less healthy and have a lower quality of life than meat-eaters\u201d and that \u201cthere is an association between a vegetarian diet and an increased risk of certain chronic diseases.\u201d The \u201cchronic diseases\u201d cited in the study were allergies, cancer and mental illness. 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