{"id":46283,"date":"2019-03-17T18:43:46","date_gmt":"2019-03-18T00:43:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=46283"},"modified":"2019-06-28T15:49:57","modified_gmt":"2019-06-28T21:49:57","slug":"abq-bbq-los-ranchos-de-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=46283","title":{"rendered":"ABQ BBQ – Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
\"\"
New Mexico Themed Restaurant is Home to New Mexico-Style Barbecue<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

“It was Kansas City but it was North Carolina I wanted;
\nwhole hog smoked low and slow over fruit woods and doused liberally with a vinegar-based sauce.
\nIt was North Carolina but it was Texas I wanted;
\nking beef sliced into juicy brisket prepared over post oak and glistening with a sweet tomato-molasses based sauce.
\nIt was Texas but it was Memphis I wanted;
\nunctuous pork slow smoked over hickory and served \u201cwet\u201d in a tomato and vinegar-based sauce.
\nIt was Memphis but it was Kansas City I wanted;
\na medley of magnificent meats smoked over a variety of woods and dusted generously with a dry rub.
\nIt was all of America\u2019s four dominant barbecue regions, but it was New Mexico I wanted;
\napplewood-smoked meats of all types imbued with the piquancy of red and green chile sauces.
\nMy search is over. ABQ BBQ is here!”
\n<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

NOTE<\/strong>: A sign on the door of ABQ BBQ indicates that due to personal reasons, the restaurant will be open only for private events.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

For years, the promotional machines behind America\u2019s barbecue have been telling us there are four distinct and dominant barbecue regions across the fruited plain. This assertion has been repeated so long, so loud and so often that most of us accept it as gospel truth. Culinary historian and food writer Robert F. Moss decries the absurdity of such a notion, declaring on The Local Palate<\/a><\/strong> that \u201cclaiming America has four major barbecue styles is like saying there are four major kinds of music: rock, classical, rap, and elevator<\/em>.\u201d He acknowledges there are \u201ccountless sub-varieties<\/em>\u201d including \u201ca lot of notable styles<\/em>.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
Everything You Need in This Table Caddy<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cRegional styles<\/em>,\u201d he explains \u201care defined by the types of meat used, the style of pits on which they are cooked, and the wood used to fire them. It includes the sauce that accompanies the meat and the dishes served alongside\u2014recipes and techniques handed down from one cook to the next over the decades<\/em>.\u201d By that strict definition, it would be hard to argue that there has ever existed a truly distinctive New Mexico barbecue style\u2026at least one that has been passed down from one generation to the next. Nor has there been any uniqueness to the type of meat, style of pit, type of wood or sauce used across the Land of Enchantment…at least not in any traditional fashion (unless you\u2019re willing to cede members of the Zia Pueblo roasting prairie dogs as a style of barbecue).<\/span><\/p>\n

Albuquerque Chef Jon Young is hoping to change all that with the June, 2018 introduction of New Mexico-style barbecue that showcases the roasted flavor and piquancy of the Land of Enchantment\u2019s official state vegetable, chile, in both its red and green varieties. Sure, other chefs have added chile to their barbecue sauces in the past, but none have made it the cornerstone of their barbecue. This not-at-all-secret ingredient is the differentiator for Chef Young who spent months developing and polishing his recipes. For many of those months, a housemade red chile BBQ pulled pork sandwich has been a mainstay at Fresh Bistro<\/a><\/strong>, his other restaurant, and it’s been flying off the menu to significant popular acclaim. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
Half Pound of Pulled Pork with Green Chile Mac and Cheese<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

ABQ BBQ is located in the Los Ranchos space which previously housed Marley\u2019s BBQ<\/strong><\/a>, a Texas-style barbecue restaurant. Other short-lived tenants at the location include Taste of Himalayas<\/strong><\/a>, Paddy Rawal\u2019s OM Fine Dining Cuisine<\/strong> <\/a>and Annapurna Ayuredic Cuisine<\/strong><\/a>. It\u2019s a pristine and capacious location, but it has no real street storefront presence or prominent signage. The telltale sign that you\u2019ve reached your destination may well be the siren-like plumes of smoke that waft into the air. That smoke is irresistible. You get a lot more of it when you enter the New Mexico themed space, the cynosure of which is an overhead balloon gondola from which colorful fabric fans out in all directions. The colors of the fabric are also New Mexico-centric\u2014red and yellow for the state flag and orange to represent our spectacular sunsets.<\/span><\/p>\n

Great barbecue is truly a sum of all its parts. Every element\u2014meats, smoke, wood, pit, sauces\u2014has to work together in perfect four-part harmony. Chef Young has mastered them all, none moreso than the unique sauces.\u00a0 Sauces are categorized as either \u201coriginal\u201d or \u201clocal.\u201d All of them have red and (or) green chile. Local means the sauces have more piquancy; they\u2019re made with local tastes in mind. There\u2019s even a \u201cChristmas-style\u201d sauce which, as New Mexicans know, means it\u2019s made with both red and green chile. Chef Young confided that some of the volcano-eaters among us have complained that even the local sauces don\u2019t have enough heat so he\u2019s developed a sauce he\u2019s calling \u201cMuerte,\u201d the Spanish word for death. Unlike barbecue at some restaurants, the sauces aren\u2019t lacquered on during or after the smoking process. You\u2019re in complete control as to what sauce you use (though you will want to try them all). <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
Half-Pound of Brisket with Roasted Street Corn<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Within days of its launch, ABQ BBQ received high praise from two highly credentialed critics. Larry McGoldrick<\/strong><\/a>, the professor with the perspicacious palate, declared on his Yelp review \u201cChef Jon Young has for some time dreamt of marrying traditional BBQ techniques with New Mexico’s favorite chiles, and the result is sure to knock your socks off. Jon _never_ oversalts anything–just enough to make the other flavors pop. This new venture is the third jewel in Jon’s crown (Fresh Bistro and Fresh Mobile Bistro are just down the street, and both among my very favorites). ABQ BBQ is already a favorite<\/em>.\u201d Gary West, the long-time and excelsior proprietor of The Smokehouse<\/strong><\/a>, a much-missed Rio Rancho barbecue institution, posted on Facebook \u201cJust got done eating some excellent New Mexican BBQ @ ABQ BBQ! The Ribs, Brisket & Wings we\u2019re lightly Smoked as to compliment all the different sauces that Jon has made up to try! The Pinto Beans, Potato Salad and the Green Chile Cornbread were to die for! Do yourself a favor and go check out this new place with a New Spin on Local New Mexico BBQ<\/em>!\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

With rousing endorsements from two highly respected barbecue aficionados, I just had to try ABQ BBQ for myself\u2014even though my Kim was out-of-town and would be sorely disappointed at not having visited with Chef Young and his beautiful bride Melissa. The menu isn\u2019t especially large\u2014four plates (pulled pork, pork ribs, brisket, pulled chicken and chicken wings), tacos (a half-pound of meat served with lettuce, tomato and queso fresco), sandwiches (a half-pound of meat served on a green chile Cheddar roll with pickled red onions), desserts and sides. For larger appetites, there\u2019s the \u201cEl Cochino,\u201d (Spanish for \u201cthe pig\u201d) a behemoth sandwich with two pounds of slow roasted pulled pork and other toppings. Dessert-lovers will love the Chingon (Mexican slang for really great) dishes\u2014six ounces of cherries, blackberries or peaches saut\u00e9ed in butter, brandy and brown sugar and topped with roasted pinon crumble. There are \u201call kinds of sides,\u201d most of which showcase New Mexico chile. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
Roasted Street Corn<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

17 June 2018<\/strong>: To ensure my Kim wouldn\u2019t completely miss out, I ordered two plates\u2014a half-pound of applewood-smoked and slow-roasted pulled pork and a half pound of applewood-smoked, herb rubbed and slow roasted brisket<\/strong><\/em>, both of which were accompanied by one side. Both of the meats had a light smoke which meant smoke didn\u2019t overpower the meats. My favorite of the two was the brisket which was moist, tender, delicious and lean with just enough fat for flavor. Experimenting with the different sauces was a fun experience though it didn\u2019t take me long to determine the \u201clocal\u201d sauces suited my masochistic tendencies best. The \u201cChristmas\u201d sauce was especially bold, a melding of green and red chiles in a sauce that clearly was a barbecue sauce and not a salsa (though it would be great with chips). How Chef Young concocted this alchemy is a reflection of his talents.<\/span><\/p>\n

17 June 2018<\/strong>: Instead of thick and thin tangles of pork pulled with a fork or by hand, ABQ BBQ\u2019s pulled pork has a very light, almost snowflake-like texture and uniformity. The pork on the plate is like an Ivory soap commercial of yore in that it is 99 and 44\/100% pure with none of the fat or sinew that sometimes gets mixed into pulled pork. Because of its delicate flavor and texture, the less assertive sauces\u2014the original red, for example\u2014work best. It went very well with the green chile cornbread<\/strong><\/em>, so buttery and moist that nothing else is needed. My favorite of three sides was the roasted street corn<\/strong><\/em> topped with queso fresco and a lime crema. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
Brisket Tacos<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

30 June 2018<\/strong>: You don’t need to wait until Taco Tuesday to enjoy tacos, an everyday treat at ABQ BBQ. Best of all, your tacos can be constructed with your choice of brisket, pulled chicken or pulled pork. Three terrific tacos per order include lettuce, tomatoes, queso fresco and a rich, delicious crema on your choice of flour or corn tortillas. The Brisket tacos <\/strong><\/em>are superb, an adjective I rarely use about tacos sans salsa. They were so impressive, in fact, that I didn’t even add any of the barbecue sauces. My side, calabasitas coleslaw<\/strong><\/em> (squash, onion, grilled corn and green chile) was a nice compliment. It was creamy, lively and fresh.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

17 March 2019<\/strong>: American traditions tend to bewilder and befuddle citizens of other countries. Mexicans, for example, just don\u2019t get why denizens of the fruited plain celebrate Cinco De Mayo with such enthusiasm. They don\u2019t understand why many of us living under spacious skies don sombreros, engorge ourselves with tacos and imbibe copious quantities of margaritas to celebrate a battle that has nothing to do with us. Similarly, in Ireland, the notion of polluting beer with green dye and eating corned beef is heretical. In fact, corned beef is rather unpopular in Ireland according to the Smithsonian<\/a><\/strong>. The preferred protein, by far, is pork. Perhaps the Emerald Isle\u2019s populace would change their mind about corned beef if they had the opportunity to try ABQ BBQ\u2019s Leprecano sandwich<\/strong> <\/em>(Applewood smoked corned beef, green chile sauerkraut, red chile Thousand Island dressing on a green chile Cheddar brioche roll), the special of the day for St. Patrick\u2019s Day 2019. This is a seriously good Reuben, one of the very best in town. Though \u201cchile\u201d appears three times on the description of the sandwich, it\u2019s got just enough heat to get your attention and it melds magnificently with the beautifully brined corned beef. The green chile brioche is such a worthy canvas that you won\u2019t miss rye.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
El Leprechauno<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

30 June 2018<\/strong>: Spanish speaking New Mexicans don’t use such anemic adjectives as “awesome” or “great” to describe something we like. We use the term “chingon” (no, not the Federation’s enemy on Star Trek). Chingon describes something that is not just extremely awesome, it’s f’ing awesome. Desserts at ABQ BBQ are all Chingon, so good they’re suffixed with the term. There are three desserts on the menu: Cherry Chingon<\/strong><\/em>, Blackberry Chingon and Peach Chingon. A Chingon is a sort of cobbler, six-ounces of your chosen fruit or berry with butter, brandy and brown sugar topped with a roasted pi\u00f1on crumble. It’s even more Chingon if you top it with ice cream.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

17 March 2019<\/strong>: Blackberries provide a wealth of health and cognitive benefits. They\u2019re packed with essential nutrients and antioxidants and they\u2019re delicious. All too often the deliciousness quality doesn\u2019t come across honestly. Most blackberry cobblers tend to be packed with filler, pectin and sugar, a disguise for bad cooking. Chef Young\u2019s rendition of blackberry chignon lets the blackberries speak for themselves and there\u2019s plenty of them doing the talking. They\u2019re tart, but won\u2019t purse your lips. They\u2019re sweet, but won\u2019t rot your teeth. You\u2019ll get enough sweetness from the scoop of ice cream and the roasted pinon crumble. If the term blackberry calls to mind a mobile smartphone, you owe it to yourself to try ABQ BBQ\u2019s muy chingon blackberry chingon<\/strong><\/em>.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
Blackberry Chingon a la carte<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Should New Mexico-style barbecue someday be acknowledge as a unique barbecue region with an incomparable style, perhaps the Village of Los Ranchos de Albuquerque should change the last portion of its name to \u201cAlbarbecue<\/strong>rque\u201d with Chef Young as its mayor. <\/span><\/p>\n

ABQ BBQ<\/strong>
\n7520 4th Street, N.W., Suite A
\nLos Ranchos de Albuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 17 March 2019
\n1st VISIT<\/strong>: 17 June 2018
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 3
\nRATING<\/strong>: 22
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Pulled Pork, Brisket, Green Chile Cornbread, Roasted Street Corn, Red Chile Macaroni and Cheese, Local Christmas Sauce, Brisket Nachos, Cherry Chingon, El Leprechauno
\nREVIEW #1049<\/strong>
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"ABQ<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

“It was Kansas City but it was North Carolina I wanted; whole hog smoked low and slow over fruit woods and doused liberally with a vinegar-based sauce. It was North Carolina but it was Texas I wanted; king beef sliced into juicy brisket prepared over post oak and glistening with a sweet tomato-molasses based sauce. It was Texas but it was Memphis I wanted; unctuous pork slow smoked over hickory and served \u201cwet\u201d in a tomato and vinegar-based sauce. It was Memphis but it was Kansas City I wanted; a medley of magnificent meats smoked over a variety of woods and dusted generously with a dry rub. It was all of America\u2019s four dominant barbecue regions, but it was New…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":51353,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,8,725,703,262,141],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-46283","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-barbecue","category-closed-in-2019","category-dog-friendly","category-closed","category-new-mexico"],"yoast_head":"\nABQ BBQ - Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED) - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=46283\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"ABQ BBQ - Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED) - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"“It was Kansas City but it was North Carolina I wanted; whole hog smoked low and slow over fruit woods and doused liberally with a vinegar-based sauce. It was North Carolina but it was Texas I wanted; king beef sliced into juicy brisket prepared over post oak and glistening with a sweet tomato-molasses based sauce. It was Texas but it was Memphis I wanted; unctuous pork slow smoked over hickory and served \u201cwet\u201d in a tomato and vinegar-based sauce. It was Memphis but it was Kansas City I wanted; a medley of magnificent meats smoked over a variety of woods and dusted generously with a dry rub. 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