{"id":4686,"date":"2024-03-19T17:06:34","date_gmt":"2024-03-19T23:06:34","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=4686"},"modified":"2026-03-31T21:35:16","modified_gmt":"2026-04-01T03:35:16","slug":"china-luck-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=4686","title":{"rendered":"China Luck – Albuquerque, New Mexico"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
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China Luck on San Pedro Just South of Paseo Del Norte<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A few years ago, \u00a0The Daily Meal<\/em>, an online resource which purports to produces more culinary content than any other resource published a feature entitled \u201cChinese Food You Won\u2019t Find in China<\/a><\/strong>.\u201d The list was replete with many popular favorites you\u2019ll find at virtually every Chinese restaurant in America: General Tso\u2019s Chicken, Crab Rangoon, Fortune Cookies, Chop Suey, Sweet and Sour Pork, Egg Foo Yong, Orange Beef and even Egg Drop Soup. Many of these dishes were, in fact, invented in the United States. \u00a0You can’t accuse Americanized Chinese food of being subtle. \u00a0Brash, gaudy and maybe even over-the-top, but never subtle. In fact, the flavor profile of Americanized Chinese food is generally so gunked up with MSG, sugar, salt and vinegar that by comparison, authentic Chinese food (invented in China) may come across to unacculturated diners as comparatively bland or boring.<\/p>\n

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View of the Dining Room<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When Daniel Wilcox recommended a visit to China Luck, my initial inclination was to dismiss the restaurant as yet another in the pantheon of Albuquerque’s Americanized Chinese restaurants. \u00a0That dismissal was based on previous visits to both the now defunct China Luck restaurant in Rio Rancho and the also now defunct China Luck in Albuquerque’s Montano Plaza Shopping Center. \u00a0Both epitomized the type of Americanized Chinese restaurants my discerning friend Bill Resnik refers to as having \u201ccopycat menus full of candied, fried and breaded mystery meats that all taste the same<\/em>.\u201d<\/p>\n

Still, Daniel’s recommendation was so animated and thoughtful that it remained in the back of my mind. \u00a0The facts that he lived in South Korea for two years, shares my opinion (and disdain) of buffets and craves an authentic experience when he visits Asian restaurants gave his recommendation tremendous credence with me. \u00a0His eloquence in describing his meal at China Luck flowed with such passion that he inspired me to try almost every dish he recommended and to use his words below to describe those dishes we had.<\/p>\n

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Chicken Wings and Legs<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

China Luck is owned by Taiwan-born Megan Yeh who moved to Albuquerque from Michigan in the mid 90s with her husband who’s been a chef for more than two decades and now manages the kitchen at China Luck. \u00a0The youthful and energetic Megan flits from table to table with the energy of a hummingbird. \u00a0She is an effusive presence, checking in on all her guests with regularity. \u00a0Obviously very proud of her restaurant and its cuisine, she willingly shares her encyclopedic knowledge of authentic Chinese cuisine with one and all. \u00a0You’ll also meet Megan’s equally friendly sister Tina.<\/p>\n

Megan will also admit that her previous instantiations of China Luck were Americanized by design.\u00a0 Both previous locations featured a low-cost buffet replete with the popular sweet-and-sour entrees so many Americans enjoy. \u00a0 At the newest and sole remaining China Luck on San Pedro, there is no buffet. \u00a0 Similar to Budai Gourmet Chinese<\/a><\/strong>,\u00a0 China Luck\u00a0 has a “not-so-secret” Chinese menu that is the antithesis of Americanized Chinese food.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 It delighted and amused me when our server cautioned us that unlike the “American menu,” the entrees on the Chinese menu are prepared to order, aren’t pre-made and therefor would take a bit longer.<\/p>\n

\"Xiaolongbao,<\/a>
Xiaolongbao, a terrific pork dumpling<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Now, the standard menu does feature all the de rigueur offerings you’ll find at most Duke City Chinese restaurants.\u00a0 It’s what most diners expect and the reason they visit.\u00a0 It’s largely why China Luck was lauded in 2007 by Chinese Restaurant News<\/a><\/strong> which annually recognizes the 100 best Chinese restaurants in the United States. Considering there are over 46,700 Chinese restaurants in the United States (that’s more than there are McDonald’s, Burger King and Wendy’s combined), any Chinese restaurant singled out by Chinese Restaurant News is worth noting. Readers of Albuquerque The Magazine <\/em>certainly took note; they selected China Luck as Albuquerque’s very best Chinese restaurant in 2007.<\/p>\n

Both from the outside and in, China Luck is relatively stark in its design. \u00a0A singular statue of Buddha stands on a corner as if to oversee the restaurant and its patrons.\u00a0 Aside from Buddha and a few Chinese accoutrements, the restaurant could almost pass for that of many other shopping center restaurants of any genre.\u00a0 That is if the aromas emanating from the kitchen at other shopping center restaurants are the familiar bouquet of Chinese food.\u00a0 Standard booths and tables provide seating which is both functional and comfortable.<\/p>\n

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Lettuce Wraps<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

19 March 2024<\/strong>: There are no surprises on the appetizer menu–at least in terms of something new. \u00a0The surprise is in how good the appetizers are prepared. \u00a0Take the fried chicken wings<\/em><\/strong>, for example. \u00a0These are not salt and pepper chicken wings or sweet and sour chicken wings, both of which fall into the “not subtle” category I described to start this review. Served six to an order are lightly coated, deep-fried chicken wings and legs the color of spun gold. \u00a0They crunch when you bite into them even as flavorful juices flow lightly from the moist, delicious meat. \u00a0This is the type of fried chicken you might expect served with ranch or blue cheese dressing although neither is needed.<\/p>\n

Another appetizer not to be missed are the pot stickers<\/strong><\/em>, also served six to an order. \u00a0I’ll let Daniel describe these: “The pot stickers were made from scratch, down to the wrappers. Plump to almost bursting, they were steamed to perfection then lightly fried on just one side without excess oil. \u00a0The pot stickers were accompanied by a perfectly matched soy sauce-based dipping sauce. \u00a0I lived in South Korea for two years and had some good mandu (Korean pot stickers), but not many (if any) that were better than these<\/em>.”\u00a0 Alas, those pot stickers are no longer on the menu, replaced by another version of Chinese dumplings called Xiaolongbao<\/em>.\u00a0 Served steamed in bamboo baskets, xiaolongbao don’t resemble other Chinese dumplings, as the skin is gathered and pinched at the top instead of folded in half.\u00a0 They are also unique in that in addition to the traditional pork filling, a tiny amount of aspic is folded into the dumpling.\u00a0 The aspic melts when steamed, allowing the filling to stay moist and flavorful.<\/p>\n

\"ChinaLuck10\"<\/a>
Scallion pancake<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

22 March 2024<\/strong>: \u00a0In culinary lexicon, a “lettuce sandwich” has always been a cultural metaphor representing something mundane, boring, unappealing, weak or unattractive. \u00a0That changed in 1993 when Paul Fleming launched P.F. Chang’s in Scottsdale, Arizona and made lettuce sandwiches sexy. \u00a0More precisely, he made lettuce wraps one of the most popular appetizers offered in Chinese and fusion restaurants throughout the fruited plain.\u00a0 China Luck’s lettuce wraps<\/em><\/strong> are pretty standard stuff–very finely minced chicken, scallions, garlic, minced mushrooms, crunchy rice noodles and possibly other ingredients with several large leaves of Romaine lettuce. \u00a0Unlike P.F. Chang’s version, China Luck doesn’t offer a cloying Hoisin-based dipping sauce. \u00a0Your taste buds will focus on the sandwich-marriage of crisp lettuce and the flavorful minced amalgam that has won over so many American diners.<\/p>\n

Still another appetizer prepared extremely well is the scallion pancake<\/em><\/strong>, a twelve-inch-pizza-sized starter formed from hard dough rolled out in such a manner that it creates a series of layers similar to Greek phyllo without the flakiness and delicateness.\u00a0\u00a0 In between those layers, a sheen of oil (or perhaps clarified butter) is applied and scallions are spread in between.\u00a0 After the scallion pancake is rolled into a flat disc, it is fried in butter or oil until completely cooked\u00a0 and crisp on the outside.\u00a0 The scallion pancake is served with a fairly simple dipping sauce in which even more scallions swim.<\/p>\n

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Chicken With Chinese Basil in Hot Pot<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

22 March 2024<\/strong>: \u00a0The “crowning part of the meal,” as Daniel describes it is the Chicken with Chinese Basil in Hot Pot<\/em><\/strong>, a restaurant specialty very popular among Chinese patrons. \u00a0It’s a dish you probably won’t find anywhere else in Albuquerque.\u00a0 It’s a dish I’ve had three times at China Luck (most recently on 22 March 2024), a rarity in that I rarely order the same thing twice.\u00a0 I’ll let Daniel take it from here.<\/p>\n

It arrived sizzling in a small, wooden-handled pot. I quickly realized\u00a0the dish is not for the casual eater; the chicken pieces were\u00a0definitely NOT boneless; the small pieces of meat had small to medium\u00a0bones still attached. From my time in Asia, I knew this was a good\u00a0sign of an authentic dish. My first bite brought surprise to my\u00a0eyes. \u00a0What I thought was a wood mushroom of some kind was in fact a\u00a0thinly sliced shard of ginger. Expecting my taste buds to be\u00a0overwhelmed, I was pleasantly surprised to meet some of the most\u00a0delectable flavor combinations I’ve ever encountered. The Chinese\u00a0basil, the ginger, the meat and the sauce, each with a unique strong\u00a0flavor, combined in a new and wonderful gastronomic symphony\u00a0balanced in perfect tone and meter.\u00a0 The only possible improvement I\u00a0can imagine would be a few more basil leaves. Though the ginger was\u00a0surprisingly bountiful, that effect was perfect. I had been\u00a0apprehensive at the pending chore of picking each small bone from the\u00a0chicken pieces, but even that task contributed wonderfully to the\u00a0experience; we were forced to indulge in this version of heaven slowly\u00a0and carefully, which gave our taste buds proper time to experience the\u00a0new, unique flavors. Consequently, though the dish took a long time to\u00a0eat I wouldn\u00b9t have shortened that experience for anything.”<\/em><\/p>\n

\"Orange
Orange Peel Chicken<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Frankly there’s not much more I can add as Daniel’s experience was mirrored by my own. \u00a0The Chicken with Chinese Basil in Hot Pot is indeed a surprising entree, one of several surprises Megan assured me are available on the not-so-secret Chinese menu. \u00a0She added that although the entree is primarily ordered by Chinese diners, it has become increasingly popular among other diners.<\/p>\n

No longer on the Chinese menu, but something the chef will prepare for you if all the ingredients are available is the Chicken Meatball Casserole<\/em><\/strong>.\u00a0 The Chicken Meatball Casserole is a fabulous dish, a wonderful find. \u00a0Served in a ceramic hot pot is a bowlful of vegetables and huge meatballs in a delicious sweet, savory and slightly piquant sauce. \u00a0The vegetables–red and green pepper, Thai bird peppers, white and green onions, ginger, Chinese basil and more–are fresh and delicious, prepared to the optimum of flavor. \u00a0The broth’s aroma is enticing, like a flavorful siren’s call. \u00a0A very generous number of delicious meatballs takes best advantage of that broth. \u00a0As with the Chicken with Chinese basil in hot pot, this dish exemplifies just why Chinese buffets are often disastrous. \u00a0Chinese food is meant to be served immediately after it’s prepared, not to be left sitting under a heat lamp. \u00a0China Luck’s entrees arrive at your table steaming hot and fresh, the way Chinese food should be served.<\/p>\n

\"Chicken
Chicken Meatball Casserole<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

If the term “secret menu” conjures images of foods prepared from ingredients you wouldn’t ever consider eating, fear not.\u00a0 Some of those dishes are prepared from the most common of American ingredients.\u00a0 They’re just prepared the Chinese way.\u00a0 One of those items is the deep-fried chicken with salt and pepper<\/em><\/strong>.\u00a0 The chicken, mostly white meat, is tender and delicious, many orders of magnitude better than the Colonel’s secret recipe could create.\u00a0 Salt and pepper are the only condiments used.\u00a0 The light, delicate crust sticks to the chicken.\u00a0 Bite into a bite-sized morsel and wisps of steam will escape.\u00a0 The chicken is served with deep-fried basil, as light and airy as gossamer.<\/p>\n

One of the other pleasant surprises not from the Chinese menu is an Orange Peel Chicken<\/em><\/strong> entree that isn’t cloying enough to decay teeth on the spot as you’ll find at some Chinese restaurants. \u00a0If you don’t want “dessert chicken,” this is one you’ll appreciate. \u00a0The orange flavored sauce is subtle, but not boring. \u00a0It is punctuated with flecks of ginger and garlic as well as the incendiary dried Thai peppers that enliven the dish with heat. \u00a0The chicken is mostly white meat and it’s only lightly breaded so you’re tasting chicken and not some crispy, crunchy breading. \u00a0This rendition of Orange Peel Chicken is neither too spicy, too sweet or too tangy; it’s a harmonious blend of flavors you’ll appreciate if you’re tired of orange marmalade chicken.<\/p>\n

\"ChinaLuck12\"<\/a>
Deep-fried chicken with salt and pepper; served with fried basil<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Another surprise is the fried rice<\/strong><\/em> which China Luck steams before frying. It’s a little secret that seems to make for perfect fried rice every time. This fried rice isn’t clumpy or gummy. In fact, you can probably pick up and taste each grain of rice individually and it will retain the flavors of the fried rice. Now, it’s not the most flavorful fried rice we’ve ever had, but it absorbs the flavors of any sauce you may add to it. Perhaps that’s a recognition that rice is the supporting cast and other dishes are the starring attraction.<\/p>\n

19 March 2024<\/strong>: The 1970s were characterized by the introduction of innovative fusion cuisine in many contemporary restaurants. \u00a0Fusion cuisine is the inventive combination of diverse, sometimes disparate culinary traditions, elements and ingredients to form an entirely new genre. In large metropolitan areas, particularly in California, the fusion of different cuisines became commonplace. Restaurants featuring the melding of French and Chinese cuisine were especially popular. \u00a0Still other restaurants had their own ideas as to what constituted fusion cuisine. The now defunct Maverick Cafe in San Antonio, Texas, became famous for their \u201cEast Meets West\u201d dining concept.<\/p>\n

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Lemon Chicken<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Maverick Cafe’s version of “fusion” wasn\u2019t so much a fusion of cuisines as it was the plating of different cuisines (Mexican and Chinese) on the same salver. The very best lemon chicken I\u2019ve ever had, in fact, was at the Maverick Cafe in 1994, served in a combination plate with enchiladas. I fondly recall using my tortilla as a \u201cNew Mexican spoon\u201d to scoop up both the tart lemony chicken and the piquant red chile though not at the same time. \u00a0There aren’t nearly as many restaurants offering lemon chicken<\/strong><\/em> as there are serving orange chicken. \u00a0 Count China Luck among them. \u00a0It’s as close to the San Antonio version as I’ve had in the Land of Enchantment with a nice balance of sweet and tangy flavors competing for the rapt attention of your tasted buds. \u00a0The tangy (though not lip-pursing) sauce wins out.<\/p>\n

19 March 2024<\/strong>: Though commonly associated with Japanese noodle dishes, Udon noodles originated in China. The majority of udon noodles are made from wheat flour. It’s the ultimate noodle comfort food that is increasingly competing for popularity with ramen noodles. \u00a0One of the reasons Udon noodles are so popular is because \u00a0they can be served and prepared in many ways. \u00a0Udon noodle dishes can be found that call for them served both warm or cool. \u00a0The special of the day during our first visit in several years was Udon noodles with your choice of protein (pork, chicken, beef). \u00a0The Udon noodles<\/strong><\/em> were expertly stir-fried with a light oyster sauce, soy sauce and minced garlic. \u00a0Despite being made with two sauces, the noodles were the star of this dish. \u00a0The sauce and the minced garlic imparted savory and delicious notes that gave the thick noodles a rich and velvety texture and addictive flavor.<\/p>\n

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Udon Noodles with Pork<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Daniel told me if he was to rate China Luck using my scale, it would warrant a rating of 20 at least. \u00a0Considering he didn’t steer me wrong in food choices, I’m inclined to agree. This is a very good–and very authentic–Chinese restaurant, one which doesn’t need the over-the-top effusiveness of the ubiquitous Americanized Chinese template.<\/p>\n

China Luck Chinese Restaurant<\/strong>
\n7900 San Pedro Drive, N.E.
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\n1st VISIT<\/strong>: 25 July 2009
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 22 March 2024
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 5
\nRATING<\/strong>: 23
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: \u00a0Chicken with Chinese Basil in Hot Pot, Pork Dumplings, Orange Peel Beef, Mango Custard, Chicken Meatball Casserole, Deep Fried Chicken With Salt and Pepper, Lemon Chicken, Udon Noodles with Pork<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A few years ago, \u00a0The Daily Meal, an online resource which purports to produces more culinary content than any other resource published a feature entitled \u201cChinese Food You Won\u2019t Find in China.\u201d The list was replete with many popular favorites you\u2019ll find at virtually every Chinese restaurant in America: General Tso\u2019s Chicken, Crab Rangoon, Fortune Cookies, Chop Suey, Sweet and Sour Pork, Egg Foo Yong, Orange Beef and even Egg Drop Soup. Many of these dishes were, in fact, invented in the United States. \u00a0You can’t accuse Americanized Chinese food of being subtle. \u00a0Brash, gaudy and maybe even over-the-top, but never subtle. In fact, the flavor profile of Americanized Chinese food is generally so gunked up with MSG, sugar, salt…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":66079,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,33,5565,262,141,563],"tags":[3757,3754,3758,3759,1653,3756,3755,3760],"class_list":["post-4686","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-chinese","category-closed-in-2026","category-closed","category-new-mexico","category-rating-excellent","tag-chicken-meatball-casserole","tag-chicken-with-chinese-basil-in-hot-pot","tag-deep-fried-chicken-with-salt-and-pepper","tag-lemon-chicken","tag-mango-custard","tag-orange-peel-beef","tag-pork-dumplings","tag-udon-noodles-with-pork"],"yoast_head":"\nChina Luck - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=4686\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"China Luck - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"A few years ago, \u00a0The Daily Meal, an online resource which purports to produces more culinary content than any other resource published a feature entitled \u201cChinese Food You Won\u2019t Find in China.\u201d The list was replete with many popular favorites you\u2019ll find at virtually every Chinese restaurant in America: General Tso\u2019s Chicken, Crab Rangoon, Fortune Cookies, Chop Suey, Sweet and Sour Pork, Egg Foo Yong, Orange Beef and even Egg Drop Soup. 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