{"id":49948,"date":"2019-06-30T00:47:02","date_gmt":"2019-06-30T06:47:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=49948"},"modified":"2024-03-23T10:06:51","modified_gmt":"2024-03-23T16:06:51","slug":"modern-general-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=49948","title":{"rendered":"Modern General – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Modern General on Central Avenue<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

“I went to a general store but they wouldn’t let me buy anything specific<\/em>.”
\n~Steven Wright<\/strong><\/p>\n

While nay-sayers may regard New Mexico as an anachronism–stuck in a time warp somewhere between Victorian times and the Happy Days of the Fonz and Richie Cunningham–there are artifacts of the “good old days” for which I wax nostalgic.\u00a0 Among those artifacts is a real general store, a concept largely relegated to history in this age of instant gratification through internet shopping.\u00a0 In small villages, general stores were not only stocked with such necessities as groceries, dry goods and hardware, they were quite literally the social center of the community.\u00a0 Some of my happiest memories as a gangling teen in Pe\u00f1asco emanate from my time working at the circa 1955 sheet metal Quonset hut which still houses Sahd’s General Store.<\/span><\/p>\n

It’s likely many new happy memories will be created at Modern General, a mercantile-cum-restaurant slash juice bar slash bakery inspired by the classic general store.\u00a0 Modern General was conceived by the indefatigable Erin Wade, the perspicacious whirling dervish behind Vinaigrette<\/strong><\/a>.\u00a0 Modern General’s mission is “to bring beauty, health, and delight into our customers\u2019 every day lives.\u00a0\u00a0 We offer food that is delicious and nourishing, design that uplifts and inspires, service that is kind and compassionate, and retail products that spark joy<\/em>.”\u00a0 Though Sahd’s didn’t have an expressly stated mission statement, its day-to-day operational model accomplished much of what Modern general aspires to do.\u00a0 That’s true of many general stores of yore.\u00a0 That’s why I miss them.<\/span><\/p>\n

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View from the Back of the Restaurant<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Modern General doesn’t just have a mission statement.\u00a0 It’s got operating principles–a strict code when deciding to bring something into the store–based on ten commandments.\u00a0 Though you won’t find any “thees” and “thous” in this decalogue, for shoppers, these commandments make great sense.\u00a0 For example: all objects have a useful function; only things our customers really need; simple, beautiful design; the best of its kind that we can find.\u00a0 Curated wares and implements aren’t only useful, they’re incorporated into the pristine space’s simple, minimalist design.\u00a0 Hanging on one wall under the heading “tools for a better life” are…you guessed it, tools for the kitchen, garden and household.\u00a0 Shelves lined with books adorn the rear wall while select foodstuffs are available near the entrance.\u00a0 Then there’s the small drool-inspiring display case on the counter in which you’ll espy baked goods and pastries.<\/span><\/p>\n

To be clear, you’re not going to find everything you need to grow an acre of crops or frame a house.\u00a0 Modern General, the mercantile side, doesn’t stock more than one of every item and there isn’t some backroom or warehouse to replenish stock quickly.\u00a0 Fortunately the same can’t be said about the cafe and juice bar.\u00a0 Modern’s website boasts of: “immune-boosting \u00a0(and addictive!) juices, smoothies and invigorating shots, energizing creative breakfast, lunch and snacks.”\u00a0 <\/em>The website waxes a bit scientific, too: “Our menu and Modcakes celebrate whole grains, a delicious, fiber-rich form of energy and an important part of a healthy, aligned diet. Our bodies are out of sync with modern processed foods\u2014including hybridized, commercially milled white flour.\u00a0 Our fresh, stoneground flour has life force in it (who knows how old that sack of flour from the store is!) and is free of inflammatory chemicals and full of pre-biotic fiber that helps restore healthy gut biota<\/em>.”\u00a0 If it all sounds too biochemical to be good, fear not.\u00a0 You’re going to find something you’ll love!
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Tools for a Better Life<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Modern General is located in a 2,000 square-foot space within the L-shaped building that previously housed 35 Degrees North Coffee and taproom Draft Station, both of which closed in 2017.\u00a0 It faces Central Avenue while its sister restaurant The Feel Good (review pending), another Erin Wade enterprise, faces west.\u00a0 Both are within easy walking distance of Vinaigrette in the burgeoning area somewhere between downtown and Old Town.\u00a0 Immediately east, essentially separated only by a patio, are established Albuquerque favorites Amore<\/strong><\/a> and Five Star Burgers<\/strong><\/a>.\u00a0 Not that very long ago, this area offered very few dining opportunities.\u00a0 Now it’s become a dining destination.<\/span><\/p>\n

At Sahd’s General Store, my very favorite job was cutting Longhorn Cheddar cheese from a wheel as big as a tricycle’s rear tire.\u00a0 That’s about as gourmet as it got in Pe\u00f1asco.\u00a0 Modern General’s menu is much more diverse and truly gourmet if the accepted definition of gourmet is food of the highest quality and flavor<\/span>. The menu is also very breakfast-centric (albeit sans Captain Crunch).\u00a0 That’s certainly not a bad thing.\u00a0 In fact, cognoscenti believe we are entering a golden age of breakfast.\u00a0 Breakfast-centric restaurants such as Modern General are ascendant across the fruited plain, offering dishes just as compelling and delicious as those available during lunch or dinner.
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View of the Restaurant From the Front Door<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The term “hot off the griddle” probably conjures up images of a stack of flat, golden orbs dripping with butter and slathered in maple syrup dripping down onto the plate.\u00a0 Most Americans are predisposed to think of pancakes as vehicles for sweet syrup and maybe some fruit.\u00a0 If we think of savory pancakes at all, it’s likely potato pancakes which come to mind.\u00a0 Modern General may forever change the way you think of pancakes.\u00a0 An entire section of the menu is called” Modcakes” and it’s subtitled “not your average flapjack.”\u00a0 Modcakes are available as “Savorycakes” and “Sweetcakes.”\u00a0 There are four of each.<\/span><\/p>\n

11 October 2018<\/strong>: Listed first among the Savorycakes are Red Pepper Sonoracakes<\/strong><\/em> (bright red, subtly smoky roasted pepper flapjacks topped with Scottish lox, chive sour cream and finished with sweet pepper syrup), as intriguing a dish as has crossed my path in quite a while.\u00a0 By modern American pancake standards (orbs as big as\u00a0 manhole covers), the Sonoracakes are a bit on the small side, but there are three of them stacked beautifully…and they are beautiful.\u00a0 Tinged with a pinkish-reddish hue and an even brighter sweet pepper syrup, they’re a revelation of the potential of savory pancakes when a little creativity is applied.\u00a0 Sure, you’ve had lox with capers, but it’s not likely you’ve had them done the Modern General way.\u00a0 For adventurous diners, each bite is a wow moment.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Red Pepper Sonoracakes<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

11 October 2018<\/strong>: Though it pains me to credit fast food monolith McDonald’s with anything but being a harbinger for heartburn and lethargy, there’s no denying Mickey D’s popularized the breakfast sandwich with its 1972 introduction of the iconic Egg McMuffin.\u00a0 Today virtually every restaurant serving breakfast and brunch has a version of a breakfast sandwich.\u00a0 Few breakfast sandwiches are more indulgently delicious than one constructed on a fluffy, crumbly biscuit.\u00a0 Starting the day with a breakfast sandwich on a biscuit has long been the Southern way.\u00a0 Having lived in Mississippi for nearly eight years, we certainly had our share of “catheads” (so called because of their size–“about as big as a cat’s head,” biscuits stuffed with sundry ingredients.<\/span><\/p>\n

By Southern standards, Modern’s biscuits would probably be classified as “kittenheads.”\u00a0 They’re not much bigger than “whomp” biscuits (the term coined by comedian Jerry Clower to describe the \u201cwhomp\u201d sound biscuit cans make when struck on the kitchen counter), but they’re so much better.\u00a0 First, they’re housemade from scratch, not puffed up when set free from a pressurized can.\u00a0 They’re real buttermilk biscuits the way a Southern mom would make them, only smaller.\u00a0 Modern’s Breakfast Biscuit<\/strong><\/em> (egg, Cheddar and bacon) is big on flavor and that’s where it counts.\u00a0 The biscuits are made with house organic stone-ground flour.\u00a0 The quality is telling.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Breakfast Biscuit with Sausage<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

11 October 2018<\/strong>: There\u2019s usually not much levity in the nightly news (unless you call the silly banter between the meteorologist and millennial anchor “levity”). Viewers are seemingly subjected to a never-ending parade of woe, despair and misery. You\u2019d be excused, however, if you laughed a little when during a 2005 newscast the anchor recounted the tale of a thief who broke into his mother\u2019s home and absconded with a pot of homemade posole. He didn\u2019t take anything else, just the pot of posole. The anchor didn\u2019t relate whether or not the ravenous rapscallion burst out into a Pavarotti-like rendition of \u201cposole mio.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n

Modern General\u2019s unique take on posole, a sort of New Mexico meets Asia cultural fusion, might have you break out in song, too. It\u2019s called \u201cpho-sole,\u201d an obvious portmanteau of \u201cpho,\u201d the hearty Vietnamese elixir and \u201cposole,\u201d a beloved New Mexican staple. You\u2019ll have to decide for yourself if it\u2019s a best of both worlds blend: bone broth, shredded chicken and hominy served with cilantro, scallions, jalape\u00f1o, Sriaracha and lime. For me, the pho-sole<\/strong><\/em> exemplifies the comfort food qualities of both pho and posole.\u00a0 Though both Sriracha and jalape\u00f1o are no substitutes for New Mexico chile, they impart a little heat and personality. <\/span><\/p>\n

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Pho-Sole<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

30 June 2019<\/strong>:\u00a0 Just how integral is rice to the Japanese culture?\u00a0 It takes only three words to answer that question: asagohan<\/em>, hirugohan<\/em> and bangohan<\/em>. \u00a0 Asagohan translates to \u201cmorning rice,”\u00a0 hirugohan to \u201clunch rice\u201d and bangohan to \u201cdinner rice.”\u00a0 The citizenry of the Land of the Rising Sun call each meal “gohan” which usually indicates steamed rice.\u00a0 Japanese don’t eschew fried rice, but the expressed favorite is definitely steamed rice. When we saw the adjective “fried” in front of the term “morning rice” on Modern General’s menu, we knew we’d\u00a0 really enjoy it.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

Modern General’s fried morning rice<\/strong><\/em> (organic rice fried with spinach, mushrooms, jalapeno, cilantro and scallions, sriracha, topped with a sunny egg) is on par with the transformative Chinese sausage fried rice at Ming Dynasty<\/strong><\/a> as the best fried rice in Albuquerque. \u00a0 Serious Eats contends that “perfect fried rice is all about texture<\/em>“…”distinct grains, each with a slightly chewy fried exterior and a tender bite<\/em>.”\u00a0 By that definition, this is a perfect fried rice, though Modern General improves on perfection with complementary ingredients that pop and evoke terms of appreciation.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

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Fried Morning Rice<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

30 June 2019<\/strong>:\u00a0 Charles Dickens described biscuits as “wily fellows<\/em>” which “leap in like sugary ninjas<\/em>.”\u00a0 It’s his way of justifying the consumption of five biscuits when he wasn’t paying attention.\u00a0 That excuse never worked with my mom.\u00a0 Nor does it work with my Kim.\u00a0 Only my dear “third grandmother” Patty Sahd could get away with sneaking a biscuit or three before grace.\u00a0 That’s the way it is with a large family.\u00a0 Biscuits become a treasured commodity, valued as highly as rain on a dry New Mexico date.\u00a0 My mom could never keep up with the demand.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

It made me very sad to peruse the “Biscuits & Toast” section of the menu and see “Biscuit and Jam<\/strong><\/em>.”\u00a0 That’s biscuit singular as in only one, as in just getting started.\u00a0 As with the Lays Potato Chip commercials of the 80s, you can’t eat just one biscuit!\u00a0 Worse, my Kim and I had half a biscuit each.\u00a0 There’s only one thing worse in the universe and that’s no biscuits at all.\u00a0 Modern General’s biscuits are terrific, not so crumbly that they fall apart and you can’t spread warm, melted butter or preserves; not so dense and stiff that they taste like floury bricks.\u00a0\u00a0 These biscuits are tailor-made for h<\/span>ousemade apricot and raspberry preserves, some of the most fruity and delicious in the city.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

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Biscuit with Raspberry and Apricot Jams<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

30 June 2019<\/strong>: Why is it granola is perceived as some holdover from the hippie culture of the 70s?\u00a0 Kid Rock may have expressed this sentiment best: “I just wasn’t raised a granola eating, peace love hippie type person<\/em>.”\u00a0 Neither were a lot of us, but we love granola nonetheless and it doesn’t make us feel counter-cultural in the least.\u00a0 Granola<\/strong><\/em> has become establishment.\u00a0 Modern General’s granola (homemade spiced granola and strained yogurt, macerated strawberries and blueberries, local honey) is so good even a stodgy Victorian would enjoy it.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

30 June 2019<\/strong>:\u00a0 “Tart, light and fluffy, layered with zippy lemon curd and smothered with humble blueberry compote and and a drizzle of labne buttercream<\/em>.”\u00a0 That’s how the menu describes Modern General’s lemoncakes<\/strong><\/em> (not pictured).\u00a0 Only the lemon ricotta pancakes at the transformative Sophia’s<\/strong><\/a> rate with these golden orbs.\u00a0 If fault could be ascribed to these paragons of deliciousness, it’s that they’re rather on the small (maybe four-inches around).\u00a0 New Mexicans are used to pancakes the size of a semi-truck tire.\u00a0 In terms of flavor, however, these mini-mites would kick syrup all over the face of much larger pancakes.\u00a0 They’re outstanding!
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

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MG Granola<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Years, maybe decades, have passed since the notion of “being cool” mattered at all to me.\u00a0 Still, some small part of me wondered if I was cool enough to frequent this trendy new hot spot which I expected to be frequented by a phalanx of selfie stick-wielding, Snapchat-sharing people half my age.\u00a0 It surprised me therefore to see just as many people even older than me enjoying the food and the sense of community inspired by the general store.<\/span><\/p>\n

Modern General<\/strong>
\n1720 Central Avenue, S.W.
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 30 June 2019
\n1st VISIT<\/strong>: 11 October 2018
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 2
\nRATING<\/strong>: 23
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Red Pepper Sonoracakes, Pho-Sole, Breakfast Biscuit with Sausage, Fried Morning Rice,
\nREVIEW #1067<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

“I went to a general store but they wouldn’t let me buy anything specific.” ~Steven Wright While nay-sayers may regard New Mexico as an anachronism–stuck in a time warp somewhere between Victorian times and the Happy Days of the Fonz and Richie Cunningham–there are artifacts of the “good old days” for which I wax nostalgic.\u00a0 Among those artifacts is a real general store, a concept largely relegated to history in this age of instant gratification through internet shopping.\u00a0 In small villages, general stores were not only stocked with such necessities as groceries, dry goods and hardware, they were quite literally the social center of the community.\u00a0 Some of my happiest memories as a gangling teen in Pe\u00f1asco emanate from my…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":49954,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,21,540,165,2583,262,141],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-49948","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-american","category-breakfast","category-brunch","category-closed-in-2023","category-closed","category-new-mexico"],"yoast_head":"\nModern General - 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Please take a few minutes to tell me what you think. 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