{"id":50269,"date":"2019-03-14T20:36:56","date_gmt":"2019-03-15T02:36:56","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=50269"},"modified":"2019-03-16T09:45:30","modified_gmt":"2019-03-16T15:45:30","slug":"juanitas-comida-mexicana-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=50269","title":{"rendered":"Juanita’s Comida Mexicana – Albuquerque, New Mexico"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
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Juanita’s Comida Mexicana on 4th Street<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When writer Jeffrey Steingarten was named food critic for Vogue <\/em>in 1998, he made it his quest to overcome any distaste he may have had for certain foods.\u00a0 Chief among the foods he disliked were kimchi, lard, Greek cuisine, and blue food. Over time, he overcame his aversion toward all those foods, save for those with a bluish hue.\u00a0 His reasoning, “I‘m fairly sure that God meant the color blue mainly for food that has gone bad<\/em>.”\u00a0 It could then be argued that his best-selling tome The Man Who Ate Everything<\/em> is somewhat of a misnomer.\u00a0 Steingarten, whom you might recognize as a frequent judge on the Food Network’s Iron Chef America competition, is a very discriminating diner, but by strict definition not an omnivore (given that the term is defined as “an animal or person who eats everything”).<\/span><\/p>\n

Because Gil’s Thrilling… contains reviews for an impressive number of the Duke City’s restaurants, my friend Carlos calls me “The Man Who Has Eaten Everywhere<\/em>” (save, of course, for chain restaurants I avoid like the dreaded “reply all” email option). In truth, there are dozens, if not hundreds, of restaurants in the metropolitan area heretofore not darkened by my shadow. Consider the maddening pace at which new restaurants open almost every week. Then there are holes-in-the-wall where you might think no one has boldly gone before (not even intrepid Yelpers) considering how little is known about them. There are also well-known gems which, for whatever reason, have not been on my radar. Among the latter is Juanita’s Comida Mexicana.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Peeling Green Chile<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Serving Duke City diners since Y2K, Juanita\u2019s might be considered both a hole-in-the-wall and a well-known gem. Sure it\u2019s ensconced on heavily trafficked 4th Street, but it\u2019s easy to miss. Unlike the Red Ball Caf\u00e9<\/strong><\/a> and the Barelas Coffee House<\/strong><\/a>,\u00a0its neighbors in the Barelas neighborhood, Juanita’s has a fairly small storefront and its signage is rather weatherworn and faded.\u00a0 A small, homey storefront is befitting the Lilliputian size of this cafe.\u00a0 There are perhaps twelve tables in relatively close proximity to each other.\u00a0 From the vantage point I had during my inaugural visit, I was able to watch two workers peeling green chile for the day.\u00a0 Mind you, this was in November, more than a month removed from peak chile roasting season.\u00a0 Most of us have peeled, bagged and frozen our green chile by now.\u00a0 The fact that the inimitable aroma of fresh chile reached and appeased my nostrils bespoke of its freshness.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

Juanita’s is named for Juanita Mu\u00f1oz who is originally from Namiquipa, Chihuahua, Mexico, almost directly south of New Mexico’s boot heel.\u00a0 Her comida Mexicana is inspired by the ranches around her hometown though many <\/span>New Mexicans will be reminded of the foods lovingly prepared by their own abuelitas.<\/span> More than most Mexican restaurants in the Duke City, Juanita’s exemplifies the similarities between Mexican and New Mexican cuisine.\u00a0\u00a0 Juanita is a peripatetic presence at the restaurant, taking orders, minding the register, refilling beverages and greeting her customers.\u00a0 She is a whirling dervish, an indefatigable bundle of energy who seems to love what she does.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Chips and Salsa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The specialty of the house is carnitas which are served with guacamole, pico de gallo, beans and a tortilla.\u00a0 Tortas (carnitas, chicken, ham and carne asada) have their own section on the menu.\u00a0 So do breakfast, breakfast burritos, lunch plates, burrito plates and a surprising number of burger choices.\u00a0 There’s a daily special for every day of the week.\u00a0 It’s a very inviting menu even if chile is misspelled (“chili”) throughout.\u00a0 Aguas Frescas, Jarritos soft drinks and other beverages are available to wash down your meal as is a good cup of coffee which will go very well with your meal.<\/span><\/p>\n

14 December 2018<\/strong>: A complimentary plastic molcajete of salsa and basket of chips is ferried to your table shortly after you’ve taken your seat.\u00a0 As at so many Mexican and New Mexican restaurants, the salsa<\/strong><\/em> is probably the most piquant item on the menu.\u00a0 It’s a jalape\u00f1o-based salsa whose heat is intensified by coffee.\u00a0 The chips<\/strong><\/em> are thick, crisp and low in salt, perfect for scooping though that’s advisable only if you believe pain is a flavor and you like pain.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Navajo Taco<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

14 December 2018<\/strong>: Wednesday’s special on the day of my inaugural visit surprised me so much I just had to order it.\u00a0 How often, after all, do you see a Navajo taco<\/strong><\/em> on any menu? \u00a0 It’s constructed much in the same manner as other so-called “Indian tacos”–a large, flat sopaipilla fashioned into a bowl stuffed with whole pinto beans, shredded queso chopped tomatoes, green chile and lots of shredded lettuce topped by a dollop of sour cream.\u00a0 The pinto beans are special, perhaps the equal of the “best in Burque” beans at Papa Nacho’s<\/a><\/strong>.\u00a0 Though they’re vegetarian, they magically manage to have an almost “made with lard” flavor so comforting for those of us who grew up with mothers who prepared beans that way.\u00a0 If only the green chile had more than mild (on any scale) piquancy, the Navajo taco would have been a tremendous dish.<\/span><\/p>\n

14 March 2019<\/strong>: Comedian Felipe Esparza joked “My mom cooked the same food every day – tortillas, beans and meat. If it was enchiladas, it was – tortillas, beans and meat. If it was burritos, it was still – tortillas, beans and meat<\/em>.”\u00a0 While some may find that amusing, many of us who grew up in Northern New Mexico, particularly those of my generation, can relate to Esparza’s tongue-in-cheek remark.\u00a0 Despite the frequency at which we enjoyed enchiladas, I’ve never tired of them, especially when they’re made well.\u00a0 At Juanita’s, the enchiladas are made very well.\u00a0 They’re available with your choice of ground beef, shredded beef, chicken or cheese.\u00a0 The shredded beef enchiladas<\/strong><\/em> with a fried egg (over easy) is terrific even though neither the red or green chile has much bite.\u00a0 The accompanying Spanish rice and beans are excellent, too.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
Shredded Beef Enchiladas<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Juanita’s Comida Mexicana is a find.\u00a0 My only regret is that I didn’t find it sooner in my quest to be “the man who ate everywhere” in the Duke City.<\/span><\/p>\n

Juanita’s Comida Mexicana<\/strong>
\n910 4th Street, S.W<\/span>.
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\n(505) 843-9669<\/span><\/span>
\nFacebook Page<\/strong><\/a>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 14 March 2019
\n1st VISIT<\/strong>: 14 November 2018
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 2
\nRATING<\/strong>: 20
\nCOST<\/strong>: $ – $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Navajo Taco, Chips and Salsa, Enchiladas
\nREVIEW #1071<\/strong>
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Juanita's<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

When writer Jeffrey Steingarten was named food critic for Vogue in 1998, he made it his quest to overcome any distaste he may have had for certain foods.\u00a0 Chief among the foods he disliked were kimchi, lard, Greek cuisine, and blue food. Over time, he overcame his aversion toward all those foods, save for those with a bluish hue.\u00a0 His reasoning, “I‘m fairly sure that God meant the color blue mainly for food that has gone bad.”\u00a0 It could then be argued that his best-selling tome The Man Who Ate Everything is somewhat of a misnomer.\u00a0 Steingarten, whom you might recognize as a frequent judge on the Food Network’s Iron Chef America competition, is a very discriminating diner, but by…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":51320,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,57,141],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-50269","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-mexican","category-new-mexico"],"yoast_head":"\nJuanita's Comida Mexicana - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=50269\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Juanita's Comida Mexicana - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"When writer Jeffrey Steingarten was named food critic for Vogue in 1998, he made it his quest to overcome any distaste he may have had for certain foods.\u00a0 Chief among the foods he disliked were kimchi, lard, Greek cuisine, and blue food. 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