{"id":51397,"date":"2026-03-14T14:06:37","date_gmt":"2026-03-14T20:06:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=51397"},"modified":"2026-03-31T19:55:10","modified_gmt":"2026-04-01T01:55:10","slug":"oni-noodles-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=51397","title":{"rendered":"Oni Noodles – Albuquerque, New Mexico"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Oni Noodles, Once an Outstanding Food Truck, Now an Outstanding Brick-and-Mortal Restaurant<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In retrospect, the monsters and bogeymen who frightened impressionable children of my generation were pretty lame. Perhaps the most lame of them all was Frankenstein, a lumbering behemoth who walked around with his arms outstretched like a sleepwalking Shaquille O\u2019Neal. Frankenstein snarled and growled a lot, probably because Gene Hackman poured hot soup<\/a><\/strong> on his lap. Then there was that pasty-faced vampire Dracula who could be repelled with garlic (which explains his aversion for Italian food). Dracula couldn\u2019t even enjoy New Mexico\u2019s 310 days of sunshine without sizzling and hissing like a strip of bacon.<\/p>\n

In comparison Japan\u2019s monsters are pretty badass. Godzilla, a foul-tempered prehistoric sea monster prone to\u00a0 tantrums destroyed Tokyo several times and was pretty much impervious to conventional weaponry. Godzilla\u2019s nemesis, the fierce Mothra was a powerful psychic (not in the \u201cunfold the mysteries of your future for $29\u201d sort of way) who could really blow your mind\u2026away. Then there are the Oni, a number of supernatural ogres with really cool powers. Oni can cause disease and disaster and are associated with bad luck, misfortune and the consumption of human flesh.<\/p>\n

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Oni’s Dining Room<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

To my friend Carlos, a devotee of manga (Japanese comics) as well as mangia (the Italian verb for “eat”), Oni Noodles is a combination of two of Japan’s most sublime offerings: monsters and ramen.\u00a0 He practically used to live at the Marble Street Brewery on Sundays when Oni Noodles was on the premises.\u00a0 We finally acquiesced to his repeated requests for us to join him for a bowl of “the very best ramen in Albuquerque<\/em>.”\u00a0 It was an education on the fine points on Oni, both the motorized mobile kitchen (that’s food truck to you, Bob) and the Japanese monster.\u00a0 Standing next to the truck’s black banner, Carlos explained the facial features of the oni (a horned and fanged terror) though my rapt attention was more focused on the bowl of ramen beneath the creature’s fierce countenance.<\/p>\n

Oni Noodles is the brainchild of business partners Daniel Linver and Chef David Gaspar de Alba, formerly executive chef of Artichoke Cafe<\/strong><\/a>.\u00a0 Don’t assume there’s no way an El Paso native could ever prepare outstanding ramen.\u00a0 Before relocating to New Mexico, Chef Gaspar de Alba was executive chef at Portland’s highly-regarded Yazuka<\/a><\/strong>, an\u00a0 Izakaya (a type of Japanese pub) “for merry misfits and mavericks<\/em>.”\u00a0 That tagline speaks volumes about the whimsy of naming a mobile kitchen for one of the most feared of all Japanese monsters.<\/p>\n

Visit the Oni Noodles website and you’ll read that almost all ingredients are sourced from local producers: Talus Wind Ranch, Silver Leaf Farms, Vida Verde Farm, CLC Pecan Farm, Raised on Sand Farm, Carrasco Family Farm to name a few.\u00a0\u00a0 Quality, freshness and relationships with local purveyors are defining characteristic of Chef Gaspar de Alba’s modus operandi.\u00a0 So is uncompromising dedication to his craft.\u00a0 When he’s not visiting farmer’s markets, he’s painstakingly preparing the broth for a ramen that rendered my friend Howie \u201cThe Duke of Duke City\u201d Kaibel<\/strong><\/a> (M’Tucci’s charismatic Marketing & Communications Director ) “completely at a loss for words<\/em>.”<\/p>\n

Befitting a mobile kitchen, the menu was rather limited–a couple of small plates, two signature ramen dishes and add-ons to take your ramen to the next level (and its baseline is already stratospheric).\u00a0 Call it a limited menu with unlimited deliciousness.\u00a0 On the day of our inaugural visit, another mobile kitchen was parked on Marble Street.\u00a0 While that mobile kitchen had a long menu, Oni Noodles had a long line.\u00a0\u00a0 Patrons were queued up like fanatic iPhone users on the date of a product launch.\u00a0 We almost felt sorry for the other mobile kitchen, but not for very long.<\/p>\n

In 2019, Oni Noodles earned “Local Hero: Best Food Truck<\/strong><\/a>” honors from Edible New Mexico readers.\u00a0 An article celebrating the selection was published in April, 2020, deep in the throes of the Covid pandemic.\u00a0 The article indicated: “There\u2019s good news and bad news about Oni Food Truck. The bad news is the food truck no longer exists. The great news is that Oni is opening a restaurant in Downtown Albuquerque<\/em>!”\u00a0 Located on the southeast corner of Central and Sixth, Oni now has the capacity to sate adoring throngs.\u00a0 Our inaugural visit to Oni’s brick-and-mortar location was when the Cabrona Virus was rampant.\u00a0 During our second visit (March, 2026) we got to experience Oni in all its glory.<\/p>\n

Small Plates<\/strong><\/h1>\n
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Smoked Pork Belly Steamed Buns (Smoked Pork Belly, Picked Apple, Persimmon, Sweet Chile)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

24 March 2019: <\/strong>Our first indication that Oni Noodles was a different (nay, elevated) mobile kitchen came when our small plate arrived.\u00a0 It was served on a real plate, not the paper plates associated with your typical mobile kitchen dining experience.\u00a0 Posed on a pristine semi-rectangular vessel were a trio of smoked pork belly steamed buns<\/em> (smoked pork belly, pickled apple, persimmon, sweet chile).\u00a0 Imbued with an olfactory-arousing smokiness which left us wishing we’d never have to wash our hands again, these hand-held treats were like a celestial syzygy, each component melding into a cohesive, singular whole.\u00a0 We’ll remember that coalescence of diverse flavors for a long time.<\/p>\n

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Beet Salad<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

14 March 2026<\/strong>:\u00a0 Beets have long been a maligned, disrespected vegetable.\u00a0 Island Institute<\/strong><\/a> indicated that in 2024, beets were the most hated vegetable in America, rating lower (or should it be higher?) than eggplant, okra, turnips and Brussels sprouts.\u00a0 Why then have so many restaurants added their version of beet salad to their menus.\u00a0 Even Oni has done so.\u00a0 Oni’s beet salad<\/strong><\/em> (roasted beets, daikon, citrus miso dressing, scallion, sesame, togarashi), a vegetarian and gluten-free version may well be the very best we’ve (or should I say “I’ve) ever had.\u00a0 It was a bit on the piquant side for my Kim which meant this delectable salad was all mine.\u00a0 Oni’s beet salad is a melange of flavor profiles that go so well together.\u00a0 There’s the inherent earthiness and sweetness of the beets themselves, the citrusy tang of the daikon miso dressing, the heat and crunchiness of the togarashi and the subtle pepperiness of the daikon.\u00a0 Every bite is an adventure in the delicious delights of a super beet salad.<\/p>\n

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Chicken Wings<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

14 March 2026<\/strong>:\u00a0 A 2024 report indicates that 53% of Americans prefer bone-in wings, while 47% prefer boneless.\u00a0 You can probably assume that those of us who prefer bone-in chicken wings perceive boneless wings as nothing but glorified chicken nuggets.\u00a0 Oni’s chicken wings<\/strong><\/em> (sweet garlic sauce \u00b7 furikake \u00b7 pickled vegetables) are the real thing.\u00a0 Served six to an order, these wings are meaty and have a satisfying crunch with every bite.\u00a0 The sweet garlic sauce is a bit on the subtle side which allows the native flavors of perfectly prepared poultry to shine.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Steak Tartare<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

14 March 2026<\/strong>:\u00a0 Steak tartare has a dubious reputation among non-gastronomes who can’t get past the ick factor of eating raw meat and egg.\u00a0 \u00a0It is a polarizing dish–seen by some as a high-end French delicacy (often served in Parisian bistros) and by others as unappealing due to the raw nature. <\/span>Those of us who self-gloss as food enthusiastics love steak tartare<\/strong><\/em> as a gourmet delicacy that offers a clean, delicious meat experience.\u00a0 Oni’s version includes shallots, pickled chile, citrus oil, quail egg yolk and a side of potato chips (ostensibly for scooping up some of the delicious melange).\u00a0 My Kim won’t even countenance the idea of steak tartare so it’s always entirely mine to enjoy.\u00a0 Enjoy I did.\u00a0 Oni’s steak tartare is magnificent, a mouth-watering experience.<\/p>\n

In the May, 2025 edition of Albuquerque The Magazine, “Hot Plate” awards were accorded to “the hottest (and coolest) food and drink options across the metro area, from well-known establishements to up-and-coming eateries.” Oni earned a Hot Plate Award for its steak tartare.\u00a0 The magazine indicated “the key to the dish is is meticulously hand-mincing a shoulder cut of locally sourced, grass-fed beef. It’s not necessarily the most traditional approach to the dish (shoulder cuts have a reputation for toughness), but the payoff is well worth it when it comes to the taste<\/em>.”<\/p>\n

7 August 2020<\/strong>: You might believe the great dumpling debate is whether such wrapped treats as calzones, corn dogs and samosas can actually be considered dumplings as Wikipedia<\/strong><\/a> contends.\u00a0 For my Kim and I, the most contentious issue surrounding dumplings is whether to order pork dumplings (her favorite) or vegetarian dumplings (my choice).\u00a0 My argument is you can’t distinguish one restaurant’s pork dumplings from another restaurant’s unless they’re served soup dumpling style or they’re ameliorated with an herb (such as Budai’s<\/strong><\/a> incomparable pork chive dumplings).\u00a0 With vegetarian dumplings–whether they be scallion dumplings or ginger dumplings–there’s more flavor and diversity.<\/p>\n

Oni’s shiitake dumplings<\/strong><\/em> (shiitake, kale, tofu, ginger, scallion, fried garlic chile oil, ponzu) are my new absolute favorite.\u00a0 These life-altering paragons of wrapped deliciousness are amped up with a diversity of flavors coalescing into explosions of wonder.\u00a0 Order them spicy for a whiplash of eye-watering, sweat-inducing heat–not enough to garner a concession “these are too hot for me” from my Kim, but piquant enough for even born-and-bred New Mexicans to respect.\u00a0 Served five per order, they need no sauce on the side because they’re served in an a chile oil the color of burgundy wine.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\n

Ramen<\/strong><\/h1>\n
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Shoyu Ramen<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

24 March 2019<\/strong>: Masuharu Morimoto<\/strong><\/a>, my very favorite (by far) Iron Chef, described ramen as “a dish that’s very high in calories and sodium<\/em>.”\u00a0 He quipped that “one way to make it slightly healthier is to leave the soup and just eat the noodles<\/em>.”\u00a0 While his “high in calories and sodium” descriptor may well be veracious, there’s no way you’d ever want to discard any of the components of the Pecan Dashi Ramen <\/strong><\/em>(smoked tofu, red chile tare, pecan broth, daikon, squash, cabbage, shitake, slow egg, chile oil, scallion).\u00a0\u00a0 This is a magical elixir, a swoon-inducing bowl of cohesive components that will delight your taste buds.\u00a0 Perhaps only the prenatal experience of swimming in amniotic fluid is as soothing as the pecan broth being slurped up (slowly so you can savor its richness).\u00a0 Add smoked bone marrow<\/strong><\/em> to make an already magnificent dish transformative.<\/p>\n

24 March 2019<\/strong>: For some of us, the term “shoyu,”\u00a0 the Japanese name for soy sauce, has a lip-pursing effect.\u00a0 Indeed, even “low sodium” soy sauce seems to have a week’s allowance of salt.\u00a0 With ramen, we seem to forget shoyu has such a high sodium content.\u00a0 Who wants to think about how salty a dish is when we’re focused on how wonderful it tastes as we’re savoring each spoonful.\u00a0 The Shoyu Ramen<\/strong><\/em> (smoked pork belly, pork bone broth, daikon, squash, cabbage, shitake, slow egg, chile oil, scallion) at Oni Noodles is an exemplar of fresh ingredients swimming in the richness of bone broth which, by the way, can improve digestion, allergies, immune health, brain health, and much more.\u00a0 Lest I be remiss, the noodles on both swimming pool-sized bowls of ramen, are perfectly al dente.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Pecan Daschi Ramen with Smoked Bone Marrow<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

14 March 2026<\/strong>:\u00a0 Several years ago, Mexican moms were asked to view a\u00a0Rachel Ray video<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0demonstrating how the effusive celebrity chef makes pozole (posole). \u00a0 Their reactions were hilarious. \u00a0Every time Rachel Ray added an inauthentic ingredient\u2013sour cream, beans, cumin, beer, radishes and other atrocities\u2013 into her posole, the Mexican mothers blanched. \u00a0In their estimation, whatever Rachel was making wasn\u2019t posole. \u00a0It was sacrilege, an afront to Mexican cuisine. \u00a0 They went so far as to declare Rachel Ray didn\u2019t respect Mexican cuisine ergo she shouldn\u2019t be preparing and calling it \u201cMexican.\u201d<\/p>\n

I had to wonder what those Mexican mothers would say about Oni’s Posole Brisket Ramen<\/strong><\/em> (24- hour smoked birsket, five-chile shio tare \u00b7 seasonal vegetable \u00b7 all the fixings).\u00a0 \u00a0On the day of our visit, this ramen dish didn’t include posole.\u00a0 Maybe that’s what the default” seasonal vegetable” means.\u00a0 At any event, I ordered this dish, in part, to see how posole and ramen noodles would work together.\u00a0 I’m still wondering.\u00a0 Don’t get me wrong.\u00a0 This was a very good dish, albeit a misnamed dish.\u00a0 The five-chile shio tare (a concentrated, salt-based seasoning sauce used to flavor ramen) had plenty of heat, the type New Mexican fire-eaters enjoy.\u00a0 It was likely oil-based chile and didn’t quite taste like Hatch’s finest, but it had plenty of bite.\u00a0 Seasonal vegetables included al dente beans (not pintos).<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\n
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Brisket Posole Ramen<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

7 August 2020<\/strong>: Ramen is the marriage of elements–particularly broth and noodles–interplaying harmoniously in a bowl.\u00a0 Remove one of those elements and you’ve got an entirely different culinary experience.\u00a0 Perhaps because its reputation was established on the wings of ramen, Oni’s menu points out in all caps that “no broth is included in this dish<\/em>”\u00a0 for its Ribs & Noodles<\/strong><\/em> (smoked baby back ribs, peach miso sauce, garlic chile noodles, braised chard). \u00a0 You might not miss the broth.\u00a0 The garlic chile noodles are magnificent in their own right, a glorious, color-flecked tangle of thick, luxurious noodles.\u00a0 Atop the noodles are four meaty pork ribs with a faint smokiness and the more prominent flavor of peach-miso sauce.\u00a0 Few barbecue restaurants have shown such mastery in the preparation of ribs.<\/p>\n

If you’re still wondering why a restaurant would share its appellation with a ferocious Japanese monster, my friend Carlos may have pegged it: “badass monster, badass ramen<\/em>.”<\/p>\n

Oni Noodles<\/strong>
\n600 Central Avenue, Suite 100
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\n(505) 503-6722
\nWeb Site<\/strong><\/a> | Facebook Page<\/strong><\/a>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 14 March 2026
\n1st VISIT<\/strong>: 24 March 2019
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 3
\nRATING<\/strong>: Outstanding<\/strong><\/span>\u2013A stand-out; delivers a memorable dining experience through a harmonious blend of exceptional food, attentive service, and consistent quality
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Pecan Dashi Ramen, Shoyu Ramen, Smoked Bone Marrow, Smoked Pork Belly Steamed Buns, Ribs & Noodles, Shiitake Dumplings, Steak Tartare, Beet Salad, Brisket Posole Ramen,\u00a0 Chicken Wings
\nREVIEW #1104<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In retrospect, the monsters and bogeymen who frightened impressionable children of my generation were pretty lame. Perhaps the most lame of them all was Frankenstein, a lumbering behemoth who walked around with his arms outstretched like a sleepwalking Shaquille O\u2019Neal. Frankenstein snarled and growled a lot, probably because Gene Hackman poured hot soup on his lap. Then there was that pasty-faced vampire Dracula who could be repelled with garlic (which explains his aversion for Italian food). Dracula couldn\u2019t even enjoy New Mexico\u2019s 310 days of sunshine without sizzling and hissing like a strip of bacon. In comparison Japan\u2019s monsters are pretty badass. Godzilla, a foul-tempered prehistoric sea monster prone to\u00a0 tantrums destroyed Tokyo several times and was pretty much impervious…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":77181,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,277,380,141,692,561],"tags":[2688,5612,1110,5605,5609,5610,5606,5607,5608,5611],"class_list":["post-51397","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-asian","category-japanese","category-new-mexico","category-ramen","category-rating-outstanding","tag-beet-salad","tag-brisket-posole-ramen","tag-chicken-wings","tag-pecan-dashi-ramen","tag-ribs-noodles","tag-shiitake-dumplings","tag-shoyu-ramen","tag-smoked-bone-marrow","tag-smoked-pork-belly-steamed-buns","tag-steak-tartare"],"yoast_head":"\nOni Noodles - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=51397\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Oni Noodles - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"In retrospect, the monsters and bogeymen who frightened impressionable children of my generation were pretty lame. Perhaps the most lame of them all was Frankenstein, a lumbering behemoth who walked around with his arms outstretched like a sleepwalking Shaquille O\u2019Neal. Frankenstein snarled and growled a lot, probably because Gene Hackman poured hot soup on his lap. Then there was that pasty-faced vampire Dracula who could be repelled with garlic (which explains his aversion for Italian food). Dracula couldn\u2019t even enjoy New Mexico\u2019s 310 days of sunshine without sizzling and hissing like a strip of bacon. In comparison Japan\u2019s monsters are pretty badass. 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