{"id":53476,"date":"2024-04-15T22:39:00","date_gmt":"2024-04-16T04:39:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=53476"},"modified":"2026-04-03T12:20:48","modified_gmt":"2026-04-03T18:20:48","slug":"la-guelaguetza-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=53476","title":{"rendered":"La Guelaguetza – Albuquerque, New Mexico"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Linda, My Boss And Fellow Culinary Voluptuary, at La Guelaguetza<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

“I am tenacious. And I love to eat.\u00a0 I go into the field and see some delectable things
\nthey’re cooking, wild plants perhaps, and think, \u2018Oh my God, I have to write about this.’
\nI just think it’s insatiable curiosity. To me, life is a continuous process of learning.”
\n<\/span><\/em>~Diana Kennedy<\/strong>
\n<\/em><\/p>\n

As an essayer of the Land of Enchantment’s culinary condition–primarily as it’s expressed by its restaurants–I’ve always marveled at the passion and appetite of Diana Kennedy who built a lifelong career by compiling, publishing and teaching indigenous Mexican recipes.\u00a0\u00a0 Just as Julia Child reduced the nuances and inflections of French cuisine and culinary techniques for home cooks, Diana introduced home cooks to highly developed, often centuries-old culinary traditions they didn’t even know existed.\u00a0 Emanating largely from indigenous Mesoamerican cultures that predated Columbus, those culinary traditions might have been lost to time were it not for Diana Kennedy who wrote several classic books on authentic Mexican cooking.<\/p>\n

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The Colorful Dining Room<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A case could easily be made that before Diana Kennedy, much of the fruited plain perceived Mexican food as some homogeneous combo plate brimming with rolled enchiladas topped with a brownish “sauce” just a shade darker than the refried beans on the plate; “Spanish” rice no self-respecting Spaniard would acknowledge; and a droopy, greasy taco all partially buried under shredded and melted cheese glop. Diana Kennedy would not countenance such woefully sad inauthentic interpretations, preferring instead to teach us how to use and appreciate achiote and atole, moles and molcajetes and even chapulines and hormigas.<\/p>\n

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In 2022, La Guelaguetza was a Semifinalist in the James Beard Foundation’s “Best Chef – Southwest” Category<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Diana Kennedy didn’t glean the recipes for her books by frequenting five-star fine-dining restaurants.\u00a0 She traversed deeply-crevassed and muddy backroads throughout Mexico to speak with and learn from home cooks who don’t deviate from long-held ancestral culinary traditions.\u00a0 Among her very favorite regions was the free and sovereign state of Oaxaca which–despite being one of the poorest and most indigenous regions of Mexico–boasts of the most authentic, time-honored and profound foodways in Mexico.\u00a0 Those of us who hold a deep reverence and fascination for Oaxaca consider “Oaxaca al Gusto<\/strong><\/a>” her magnus opus, the culmination of her life’s work.<\/p>\n

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The Amicable Luciano Salazar, One of Five Brothers Who Own La Guelaguetza<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Oaxaca al Gusto is probably appreciated as much for its cultural and anthropological aspects as for its recipes, many of which most home cooks aren’t intrepid enough to attempt–even if they could find the ingredients.\u00a0 This magnificent tome celebrates the staggering variety and uniqueness of Oaxacan cooking, showcasing sui generis varieties of chiles, chocolate and corn.\u00a0 It features home cook recipes for everything from grasshoppers to fungus.\u00a0 Understandably, Diana Kennedy’s masterpiece came immediately to mind when my friend Bill Resnik told me about La Guelaguetza, an Oaxacan restaurant in the Duke City he described simply as “oh, my God!.”<\/p>\n

Fittingly, my inaugural visit to La Guelaguetza was with my boss Linda Johansen.\u00a0 Just as Diana Kennedy is widely considered the foremost researcher, teacher, and writer on the regional foods of Mexico, Linda is universally regarded as the doyenne of information technology at the University of New Mexico.\u00a0 Moreover, she is a fellow culinary voluptuary and Kansas City Barbecue Society (KCBS) judge.\u00a0 Like me, she approaches every bite with a spirit of discernment and appreciation.\u00a0 It’s very rare that I have the opportunity to break bread with someone as attuned to the nuances and subtleties of ingredients and preparation techniques as Linda is.\u00a0 Dining with her would prove to be a great treat and learning experience.<\/p>\n

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Three Mole Sampler<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Several years ago, Linda visited central Mexico and became so besotted of the seven moles of Oaxaca<\/strong><\/a> that for months thereafter, she experimented obsessively with the preparation of mole, determined to concoct an authentic and traditional version comparable to what she enjoyed in Mexico.\u00a0 That’s a formidable challenge even for experienced chefs.\u00a0 Not only is mole a time-consuming and labor-intensive endeavor, the compilation of ingredients itself can intimidate and even dissuade those of us not quite as determined as Linda.\u00a0 Mole, a term whose genesis comes from the Nahautle word “molli” which means “sauce” or “mix” is a complex dish made from anywhere from twenty ingredients (mole Poblano) to more than thirty (some Oaxacan moles).<\/p>\n

In Oaxaca, you might expect to stride into a restaurant under a canopy of lush bougainvillea the shade of Scarlett O Hara,<\/strong><\/a> but Albuquerque’s sole Oaxacan restaurant shares the same stucco-hued paradigm as many Due City dining establishments.\u00a0 In other words, it’s fairly nondescript.\u00a0 La Guelaguetza sits in a space next door to a small bodega and its storefront signage is a confusion of the restaurant’s name and imagery reminiscent of the state of Oaxaca.\u00a0 La Guelaguetza is located on Old Coors not quite halfway between Bridge Blvd. and Central Avenue.<\/p>\n

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Housemade Potato Chips<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Step inside and you’ll quickly espy a colorful array of Mexican papel picado banners<\/strong><\/a> (traditional folk art banners resembling decorative handkerchiefs) hanging from the ceiling.\u00a0 Walls are festooned with bowtie-shaped serapes and assorted bric-a-brac.\u00a0 Booth seating flanks north and south walls while the center of the restaurant is mostly four-top seating which is more functional than it is comfortable.\u00a0 Two sensory experiences emanate from the kitchen.\u00a0 One is the cacophonous din of festive Mexican music.\u00a0 Though it’s not streamed throughout the premises, it’s certainly discernible.\u00a0 The other, more pleasing sensory experience, is the olfactory-arousing aromas of magnificent foods.<\/p>\n

We joked with our server that the reason the music from the kitchen was so loud was because the Salazar brothers who own and operate the restaurant were back there swearing at each other.\u00a0 We met two of the brothers, both as genial and convivial as possible.\u00a0 Their hospitality and warmth made us feel like welcome guests at their home.\u00a0 When they discovered that both Linda and I speak Spanish (Linda like a native), they answered all our questions with alacrity.\u00a0 Pride in their homeland was evident.\u00a0 So was their knowledge of Oaxacan culinary techniques, ingredients and recipes.<\/p>\n

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Chapulines<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

21 November 2019<\/strong>: Shortly after we were seated, our server ferried a small rectangular plate to our table.\u00a0 Ladled onto the plate were three moles: mole picoso<\/strong><\/em>, a piquant mole not for the meek of taste bud; mole negro<\/strong><\/em>, a smoky-sweet chili-chocolate sauce the color of dried prunes; and mole coloradito<\/strong><\/em> which showcases dried red chiles.\u00a0 Warm totopos<\/strong><\/em> (triangular-shaped corn tortilla chips) were served with the mole sampler.\u00a0 Contrary to our expectations, the totopos were soft and chewy, not crisp and crunchy.\u00a0 Still, they proved an effective vehicle for dipping into the moles.<\/p>\n

21 November 2019<\/strong>: Our server also brought to our table a basket of housemade potato chips<\/strong><\/em> which brought to mind the “bet you can’t eat just one<\/strong><\/a>” challenge from 1983 commercial for Lays potato chips.\u00a0 Thin, crispy “mini me” versions of those chips from the Lays commercial, these chips are lightly sprinkled with a mild chile.\u00a0 They invite scooping up the moles a little at a time, a process which suited both Linda and I very well. When she chided me for spilling a drop of mole on the table, I used my finger to sop it up then licked off that one drop.\u00a0 That’s how highly we esteemed our sampler.<\/p>\n

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Hormigas<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Throughout our meal I joked with our server about adding a few chapulines (grasshoppers) and hormigas (ants) to everything he was ferrying to our table, much to Linda’s consternation.\u00a0 As broad-minded as any epicure I know, my intrepid boss could not be talked into sampling either.\u00a0 Of course, that’s the case with most visitors to Oaxaca where restaurants often serve them as “botanas” (a sort of pre-meal snack).\u00a0 When Luciano Salazar explained that the most tasty chapulines<\/strong><\/em> are harvested early in the rainy season when they’re small and feed on alfalfa, Linda astutely observed that even chapulines have a terroir. \u00a0NOTE<\/strong>: \u00a0The chapulines and hormigas were available only during our inaugural visit to La Guelaguetza. \u00a0The Salazar brothers don’t know if they’ll be available in the future.<\/p>\n

Should the terms “gross” and “yuck” enter your mind after reading about chapulines and especially after seeing the five herbaceous leaf jumpers on the ramekin pictured above, your appetite might be mollified if you read how they’re prepared and served.\u00a0 Chapulines are seasoned with a mojo, a mixture of garlic, lime juice and salt crushed together in a molcajete (a seasoned stone mortar meticulously carved out of a single rock of vesicular basalt) then fried crisp in a little oil.\u00a0 By this point you’re either antsy to try them or you don’t want to learn more.\u00a0 Not even if I tell you that they’re nutritious and contain a high proportion of proteins and amino acids.<\/p>\n

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Pellizcada de Carne Desebrada<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

21 November 2019<\/strong>: Maybe this paragraph should also come with a cautionary warning.\u00a0 That’s because in addition to chapulines, our server brought us a small ramekin of hormigas<\/strong><\/em> (ants).\u00a0 Ants are considered a delicacy in Oaxaca and not just because they have a protein level similar to meat (of course it takes an entire ant colony to make a full meal).\u00a0 In restaurants and homes throughout Oaxaca, ants are toasted on a comal and mixed on a molcajete with chile de arbol, lime and raw garlic.\u00a0 I wouldn’t go far out of my way to have hormigas again, but certainly wouldn’t flick them off my plate.<\/p>\n

In recent visits to new Mexican (as opposed to New Mexican) restaurants in the Duke City, I’ve been introduced to dishes heretofore unsampled by my learned lips.\u00a0 Guaca Guaca Tacos & Beer<\/strong><\/a> (now closed) introduced me to such Sonoran specialties as momias, caramelos and Guaca dogs.\u00a0 La Guelaguetza’s menu also has a number of dishes I’d never before tried as well as many familiar items common to other Mexican states.\u00a0 It surprised me to see so many mariscos options including such favorites as camarones aguachile, tostadas de ceviche and mojarra frita.<\/p>\n

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Pellizcada con Longoniza<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When she came upon the pellizcadas<\/strong><\/em>, Linda grew visibly excited.\u00a0 She fondly recalled having enjoyed them during her visits to Mexico and was eager for me to try them.\u00a0 It didn’t dawn on me until later that the term “pellizcadas” might have its genesis in the Spanish word for “pinching,” something I experienced frequently before corporal punishment was banned in schools.\u00a0 Pellizcadas are fried masa cakes with a lip “pinched” around its edge and some type of topping nestled in the middle.\u00a0 Pellizcadas are very similar to, but smaller than sopes.<\/p>\n

21 November 2019<\/strong>: One of the two pellizcadas we shared was made with carne desebrada<\/strong><\/em>, shredded brisket drizzled in Mexican crema and topped with a smear of beans, queso fresco, cilantro, red onion and your choice of salsa verde or salsa roja (or both).\u00a0 Despite being crisp and firm, the masa is moist and redolent with the inimitable flavor of manteca (pork fat).\u00a0 The carne desebrada was also moist and flavorful with some edges caramelized and crispy.\u00a0 After discovering our shared\u00a0 appreciation for both Mexican crema and cr\u00e8me fra\u00eeche as well as our mutual disdain for whipped cream, Linda amazed me by actually knowing the differences between Mexican crema and cr\u00e8me fra\u00eeche (crema is runnier, thinner, and slightly sweeter than both cr\u00e8me fra\u00eeche and sour cream).<\/p>\n

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Taco Al Pastor<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

21 November 2019<\/strong>: Although the menu indicated our second pellizcada was made with chorizo, Luciano explained that the menu was in error.\u00a0 Instead of chorizo,the pellizcada was made with longoniza<\/strong><\/em>, a ground pork sausage both similar and dissimilar to chorizo.\u00a0 The primary difference between longoniza and chorizo is the spice mix with which the sausage is made.\u00a0 This spice mix varies depending on the region in which the longoniza is made.\u00a0 Though neither of us had an “aha, longoniza” epiphany, to our credit we didn’t think we were having chorizo.<\/p>\n

21 November 2019<\/strong>: Eight tacos grace the menu: carne asada (grilled beef), chorizo (pork sausage), lengua (beef tongue), buche (pork stomach), al pastor (in the style of the shepherd), desebrada (shredded brisket), barbacoa (pit-cooked beef), and on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, tripitas (crisply fried pork intestines).\u00a0 A favorite for both of us is al pastor.\u00a0 <\/strong><\/em>In Mexico City, the meat (pork marinated in a mixture made up of vinegar, a variety of chiles, and other herbs and spices) for al pastor is cooked on a vertical much like shawarma.\u00a0 The meat is then shaved or cut from the spit at the point of serving.\u00a0 Spit-style cooking of taco meat is uncommon outside Mexico, but when done correctly the effect and flavor is similar.<\/p>\n

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Enchiladas de Mole<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

La Gueleguetza’s tacos al pastor (a single corn tortilla, cubed pork, cilantro, red onions, pineapple and a squeeze of lime) could pass for spit cooked pork and you don’t even have to close your eyes to imagine that’s how they’re prepared.\u00a0 The contrasting flavors of savory, marinated pork and sweet pineapple work so well we gave pause to reflect on the genius who first paired pork and pineapple (although on pizza, this is a divisive coupling).\u00a0 Tender red onions grilled until they start to caramelize and the fresh, invigorating flavor of cilantro lend additional complementary contrast.\u00a0 Then there’s the squeeze of lime, just enough to cut the sweetness of the pineapple.\u00a0 These are some of the best tacos al pastor you’ll have north of the border.<\/p>\n

In discussing the ascendancy of Oaxaca as a travel and culinary destination, we mentioned to Luciano that Oaxaca is widely known as the “land of seven moles.”\u00a0 “Eight moles,” he corrected us.\u00a0 We rattled off the seven we knew–Negro, Rojo, Coloradito, Amarillo, Verde, Chichilo and Manchamantel.\u00a0 The eighth, he explained, is mole blanco, a thickened sauce prepared with a mixture of light-colored ingredients.\u00a0 It’s a mole not even Diana Kennedy acknowledged, at least according to Serious Eats<\/strong><\/a>: “There are the seven moles of Oaxaca\u2014and then there is mole blanco. Absent even from Diana Kennedy\u2019s exhaustive culinary ethnography Oaxaca Al Gusto, this mole, also known as mole de novia, is a virtual unknown compared to its sister dishes.”<\/i><\/p>\n

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Mole Oaxaque\u00f1o<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

21 November 2019<\/strong>: Mole blanco is not currently on La Gueleguetza’s menu, but the three moles which do grace an extraordinary menu are Oaxaca quality paragons of deliciousness, truly worthy of my friend Bill’s “Oh, my God!” proclamation.\u00a0\u00a0 Rather than limit myself to one singular mole, I opted for the enchiladas with mole<\/strong><\/em>, moist shredded chicken enrobed in corn tortillas and topped with your choice of mole–all three in my case.\u00a0 Though each mole has a distinct flavor profile, it’s advisable to focus on one before moving on to the other.\u00a0 It staves off taste bud confusion and lets you focus (probably in a dreamlike trance) on the mole at hand.\u00a0 Unless you have an asbestos-lined tongue, you might also want to save the mole picoso for last.\u00a0 More than the other moles, chiles–incendiary and angry–are what you’ll discern most.\u00a0 Toasted chiles are an essential ingredient in mole negro, but this, the “queen of all moles” is equal parts sweet, smoky and piquant in a delightfully complex manner.\u00a0 Is it any wonder The Atlantic says “Mole negro<\/i> tastes like all your best memories<\/em>.”<\/p>\n

21 November 2019<\/strong>: Linda’s choice was Mole Oaxaque\u00f1o<\/strong><\/em>, a rather generic name for the dish (because as we know all the moles on La Guelaguetza’s menu are Oaxaque\u00f1o).\u00a0 She excluded the mole picoso leaving a hefty chicken breast covered in swoon-worthy mole negro and mole coloradito so good you’ll be tempted to lick the plate.\u00a0 The coloradito is composed of a variety of dried chiles, fruits, nuts and chocolate among several other ingredients.\u00a0 As with all moles, those ingredients renounce their individuality to coalesce into one beautiful whole.\u00a0 The sum is certainly greater than the parts.\u00a0 This is a magnificent mole, layered with flavor.\u00a0 It’s mysterious, intense and absolutely delicious.\u00a0 Lest you accuse me of laying it on as thick as the mole, the accompanying rice and beans were fairly pedestrian, not worthy of being on the same plate as the Mole Oaxaque\u00f1o.<\/p>\n

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Birria Consomme and Four Birria Tacos<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

11 December 2019: <\/strong>It’s been said that a restaurant’s menu is an important piece of its marketing collateral<\/span> because it not only informs your current visit’s dining choices, an exciting menu entices you to return to try something else.\u00a0 After my inaugural visit, my friend Bruce “Sr Plata” and I were certainly enticed by the opportunity to try birria<\/strong><\/em> two ways.\u00a0 Birria is one of those terms seemingly open to interpretation.\u00a0 The term can (ideally) mean goat or mutton, but is sometimes used for beef or chicken.\u00a0 It can be used to describe a spicy consomme containing the aforementioned proteins or it can refer to the proteins themselves.\u00a0 We were fortunate enough to enjoy birria both ways.<\/p>\n

First came the hearty, spicy Mexican consomme made with goat slowly-simmered with the meat still on the bone. The meat falls off and into the broth during the simmering process, rendering it incredibly tender and rich.\u00a0 A fiery red broth announces the presence of incendiary chiles, probably ancho and guajillo while the freshness of the chopped onions and cilantro indicate they were added just before serving. It’s the way Mexicans have been preparing birria for generations. It’s the way Sr. Plata and I enjoyed it. \u00a0 We also enjoyed the birria tacos<\/strong><\/em> we split.\u00a0 In this case, the birria was beef brisket as tender, moist and delicious as any brisket you’ll ever have.\u00a0 Served with red onions and cilantro, the tacos were absolutely outstanding.<\/p>\n

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Plato Mixteco<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

24 September 2020:\u00a0 <\/strong>During our first visit since the world shut down in March, 2020, we literally had the restaurant to ourselves.\u00a0 For the entirety of our ninety minute visit, we also had Roberto Salazar, second eldest of the five brothers, to ourselves.\u00a0 Like his four brothers, Roberto is a gregarious host who relishes the opportunity to wow guests with great food and tremendous service.\u00a0 Roberto apprised me of La Guelaguetza’s most recent culinary creations, a birria pizza.\u00a0 If you’ve been following recent culinary trends, you’re probably aware that birria has been showcased locally in such diverse, cross-cultural ways as birria ramen and birria burgers.\u00a0 Birria pizza is just the latest way to demonstrate the versatility of birria.<\/p>\n

La Guelaguetza’s birria pizza<\/strong><\/a> is constructed on two flour tortillas and resembles a very thick quesadilla.\u00a0 Roberto informed us this pizza weighs in at over two-pounds and most diners wind up taking some, if not most, of it home.\u00a0 A generous mound of birria is spread (piled)\u00a0 between the tortillas which are drizzled with crema and topped with cilantro and red onions.\u00a0 Some of the rich, spicy birria consomme is ladled onto the entire pizza, imparting a terra cotta tint…and because you can never get enough birria, a cup of the birria consomme is served with every pizza.<\/p>\n

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Shrimp Fuego Tropical Salad<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

24 September 2020:\u00a0 <\/strong>The only reason we didn’t order the birria pizza is because we had already ordered the plato mixteco<\/strong><\/em>, an entree-sized appetizer.\u00a0 My Kim jokingly called it “Oaxacan charcuterie.”\u00a0 A manhole cover-sized platter arrived brimming with rolled up ham slices, chicharrones (pork rinds) cubes of queso fresco (fresh cheese), carne adovada, three cheese quesadillas, carne asada and best of all, three small mole enchiladas.\u00a0 There is a lot to like–and a lot to eat–in this oversized platter.\u00a0 We were able to put a dent in it, but there’s no way we could finish it, especially considering we also ordered entrees.<\/p>\n

24 September 2020:\u00a0<\/strong> The free and sovereign state of Oaxaca is so well known for its varied cuisine as uniquely prepared by its sixteen individual indigenous groups that many of us may not realize that Oaxaca has a significant coastline on the Pacific Ocean.\u00a0 It may, therefore,\u00a0 come as a surprise that La Guelaguetza has an extensive seafood menu.\u00a0 While several mariscos options caught me eye, the most intriguing may have been the shrimp fuego tropical salad<\/strong><\/em> (mixed greens, quinoa, avocado, cranberries, apples, pineapples, queso fresco and grilled shrimp served on a flour tortilla bowl resembling a bu\u00f1uelo).\u00a0 The fuego (fire) comes from a pineapple salsa tinged with piquant chiles.\u00a0 This is a magnificent melange of sweet, tangy, piquant, fresh and savory flavors dancing merrily on your taste buds.\u00a0 Every bite is a surprise with every element working well together in eye-opening, mouth-watering ways.<\/p>\n

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Shrimp Aguachile<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

24 September 2020:\u00a0 <\/strong>An even more artistic presentation of succulent seafood comes in the form of shrimp aguachile<\/strong><\/em> (a sunburst design replete with butterflied shrimp, sliced cucumbers, cilantro, red onions and in the middle, ceviche) in a sauce of lime and chiles.\u00a0 This is a dish that combines piquancy and tanginess to enliven very fresh and very well prepared seafood. The seafood items virtually swim in the lime juice just waiting for your fork to extract them.\u00a0 Roberto obviously took great care in preparing such a beautiful dish for my Kim.<\/p>\n

21 November 2019<\/strong>: If the Salazar brothers chose to focus solely on life-altering mole and other savory Oxacan treasures, diners would leave fully sated, duly impressed and exclaiming “Oh, my God!”\u00a0 Thankfully, however, the Salazar brothers go the extra mile and serve perhaps the very best cheesecake<\/strong><\/em> in the Duke City.\u00a0 It’s one of six desserts on the menu, none of the others being the ubiquitous pastel tres leches.\u00a0 A very generous wedge of zesty cheesecake drizzled with chocolate and strawberry sauce is large enough to share, not that you’ll want to.\u00a0 The very top layer of this cheesecake is sweeter and tangier than the rest of the creamy concoction, but every spoonful is soul-satisfying. \u00a0 NOTE<\/strong>: \u00a0In successive visits, the cheesecake has been unavailable. \u00a0Nor were other desserts.<\/p>\n

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Cheesecake<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

11 December 2019<\/strong>:\u00a0 I would certainly be remiss not to mention La Guelaguetza’s outstanding coffee made with beans grown in Oaxaca.\u00a0 For two caffeine fiends such as Sr. Plata and I who often lament the dearth of good restaurant coffee, Oaxacan coffee<\/strong><\/em> is a tremendous find.\u00a0 Oaxacan coffee is a rich blend with an enticing aroma with a smoky profile.\u00a0 La Guelaguetza uses larger coffee mugs than most restaurants and your coffee is replenished faithfully. \u00a0NOTE<\/strong>: \u00a0Oaxacan coffee has not been available at La Guelaguetza since the Cabrona Virus invaded.<\/p>\n

15 April 2024<\/strong>:\u00a0 Although desserts were not available during two of our four visits, you can still sate your sweet tooth at La Guelaguetza.\u00a0 On the desayuno (breakfast) menu, you’ll find strawberry<\/strong><\/em> and pineapple crepes<\/strong><\/em> (crepas de fresas y pina).\u00a0 Three crepes per order topped with sweetened condensed milk are as good as many French creperies prepare them.\u00a0 That makes great sense.\u00a0 Culinary historians consider Modern Mexican cooking\u00a0 to be a fusion of three cuisines<\/strong><\/a> \u2013 indigenous, Spanish and French.\u00a0 My Kim enjoys everything topped with Nutella, a creamy hazelnut and chocolate decadence originated in Italy.\u00a0 The crepas at La Guelaguetza are everything you could want in crepes.\u00a0 They’re super-model thin but not at all crispy;\u00a0 flexible and velvety;\u00a0 buttery and golden.\u00a0 The best ones can\u00a0 make you cry into your fresas and Nutella.<\/p>\n

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Crepas With Fresas Topped with Nutella<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

15 April 2024<\/strong>:\u00a0 I’ve long contended that no culinary culture in the world can bake a potato as well as Mexican chefs can.\u00a0 Remember, we lived in the United Kingdom where most pubs showcase jacket potatoes as large as melons.\u00a0\u00a0 Believing (misguided) that my enchiladas de mole might not fill me up, I asked for a baked potato with “all the works.”\u00a0 Typically in American restaurants that means sour cream and butter and in England, salad cream.\u00a0 The “works” at La Guelaguetza was a melange of the colors of the Mexican flag: chopped red tomatoes, green cilantro and peppers and white onions.\u00a0 Somewhere beneath that, there was butter and sour cream was served on the side.\u00a0 As with every baked potato in almost every Mexican restaurant in this side of the border, this one was terrific.<\/p>\n

In 2022, the Salazar Brothers achieved an honor seemingly reserved for fine-dining restaurants in the swanky part of town.\u00a0 They were nominated for the James Beard Foundation’s “Best Chef – Southwest” accolades, becoming semifinalists. \u00a0 Often likened to the “Academy Awards of the Culinary World,” James Beard awards are among the most prestigious honors a restaurant can achieve.\u00a0 Governor Michelle Lujan-Grisham and Albuquerque Mayor Tim Keller visited La Guelaguetza to pay tribute to the Salazar Brothers.<\/p>\n

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Papa Asada<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When Luciano Salazar explained the Oaxacan tradition of La Guelaguetza, an annual celebration of indigenous culture, he emphasized that the term itself means “un regalo” or a gift.\u00a0 Linda and I certainly left La Guelaguetza pleasantly contented at having received the great gift of warm hospitality and great food.<\/p>\n

La Guelaguetza<\/strong>
\n816 Coors Drive, S.W.,\u00a0 Suite B
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\n(505) 916-0095
\nWebsite<\/strong><\/a> | Facebook Page<\/strong><\/a>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 15 April 2024
\n1st VISIT<\/strong>: 21 November 2019
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 4
\nRATING<\/strong>: Excellent<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0\u2013 High quality dining experience; very good to excellent food, attentive service, and a well-maintained atmosphere; worth a detour.
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>:\u00a0 Chapulines, Hormigas, Cheesecake, Mole Oaxaque\u00f1o, Enchiladas de Mole, Taco Al Pastor, Pellizcada con Longoniza, Pellizcada de Carne Desebrada, Oaxacan Coffee, Consomme de Birria, Birria Tacos, Shrimp Aguachile, Shrimp Fuego Tropical Salad, Mixteco Plate, Crepa con Fresas Y Nutella, Papa Asada
\nREVIEW #1138<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

“I am tenacious. And I love to eat.\u00a0 I go into the field and see some delectable things they’re cooking, wild plants perhaps, and think, \u2018Oh my God, I have to write about this.’ I just think it’s insatiable curiosity. To me, life is a continuous process of learning.” ~Diana Kennedy As an essayer of the Land of Enchantment’s culinary condition–primarily as it’s expressed by its restaurants–I’ve always marveled at the passion and appetite of Diana Kennedy who built a lifelong career by compiling, publishing and teaching indigenous Mexican recipes.\u00a0\u00a0 Just as Julia Child reduced the nuances and inflections of French cuisine and culinary techniques for home cooks, Diana introduced home cooks to highly developed, often centuries-old culinary traditions they…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":66434,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3628,440,2836,57,141,563],"tags":[3138],"class_list":["post-53476","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-james-beard-foundation-best-chef-southwest-semifinalist-2022","category-albuquerque","category-james-beard-award-best-chef-restaurants","category-mexican","category-new-mexico","category-rating-excellent","tag-james-beard-foundation-best-chef-southwest-semifinalist-2022"],"yoast_head":"\nLa Guelaguetza - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=53476\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"La Guelaguetza - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"“I am tenacious. And I love to eat.\u00a0 I go into the field and see some delectable things they’re cooking, wild plants perhaps, and think, \u2018Oh my God, I have to write about this.’ I just think it’s insatiable curiosity. 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