{"id":54019,"date":"2020-01-29T00:39:17","date_gmt":"2020-01-29T06:39:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=54019"},"modified":"2023-09-23T10:50:04","modified_gmt":"2023-09-23T16:50:04","slug":"tuerta-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=54019","title":{"rendered":"Tuerta – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Tuerta for Super Creative Sandwiches<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

“In the land of the blind, the man with one eye is King<\/em>.”<\/span><\/p>\n

What would you name a one-eyed cat?\u00a0 One immediately obvious option is Cyclops for the one-eyed giant of Greek mythology.\u00a0 If you prefer Norse mythology, you could opt for the name Odin, the god of wisdom, poetry, death, divination, and magic.\u00a0 Or you could go with one-eyed movie characters such as Rooster Cogburn (True Grit), Snake Plissken (Escape from New York) or Big Dan Teague (O Brother Where Art Thou). \u00a0 A cuter option is Nick Furry, a play on the name of the director of SHIELD, the military counter-terrorism and intelligence agency of Marvel Comics lore.\u00a0 Sadly, aside from Leela, the one-eyed captain of the Planet Express Ship on Futurama and Elle Driver, the one-eyed assassin on Kill Bill there appear to be far fewer one-eyed characters for which you can name a female cat.<\/span><\/p>\n

When Liam Kimball visited the animal welfare department to open his heart and home to a new four-legged fur baby, he didn’t seek out the most aesthetically-pleasing exemplar of health and beauty.\u00a0 He fell in love with and adopted an energetic one-eyed cat. Eschewing the names of mythological and movie characters which might have stigmatized his little girl, he named her Lidia.\u00a0 Understandably, Lidia lacks the peripheral vision and depth perception of “normal” cats.\u00a0 That became quickly obvious when the affectionate little ball of fur may have used up one of her nine lives stepping off the balcony.\u00a0 Fortunately, Lidia is resilient and was none the worse for wear.<\/span><\/p>\n

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A Small Dining Room Where Huge Flavors are Served<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Lidia is a well-adjusted, affectionate connoisseur of comfort.\u00a0 Her stoic countenance graces one wall at Tuerta, the sandwich shop her best friend Liam owns and operates on Central Avenue in the heart of downtown.\u00a0 As you may have surmised, Tuerta is a Spanish term which translates to “one-eyed woman.” It’s not intended to lampoon little Lidia, but as a tribute to the small bundle of love who won Liam’s heart.\u00a0 Because local health ordinances prohibit pets in restaurants, you won’t soon see Lidia at the diminutive sandwich shop named for her, but you can bet Liam will regale you with her latest exploits.<\/span><\/p>\n

In addition to being a gifted raconteur, Liam is quite a chef with a very impressive pedigree.\u00a0 A 2013 graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education (the real ICE), Liam cut his teeth as chef at Loreley Beer Garden<\/strong><\/a>, New York City’s very first biergarten.\u00a0 He then\u00a0 moved up to management jobs in two of the city’s most highly regarded patisseries.\u00a0 From there, it was on to Julian’s Restaurant<\/strong><\/a> in Providence’s famous Federal Hill before returning home to Albuquerque where the Corrales native served as restaurant manager for Campo<\/strong><\/a>, the popular fine dining establishment at Los Poblanos.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Finally…a Menu with Imagination as Well as Deliciousness<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

At heart always a chef, Liam conceptualized a restaurant showcasing a rotating, seasonal menu–based on what is available from local growers–of sandwiches, a restaurant where he would also offer a raw salad, a cooked salad and a soup.\u00a0 Gluten-free and vegan options would also be available.\u00a0 His dream became reality on 30 September 2019 when Tuerta opened its doors.\u00a0 In addition to being a descriptor for his one-eyed cat, Tuerta is a play on the term “torta,” a Mexican sandwich typically constructed with the same fillings used on tacos.\u00a0 If you can’t make it to Tuerta, local delivery to the downtown area is available by bicycle.<\/span><\/p>\n

There are many indicators that Tuerta is a sandwich shop unlike any other.\u00a0 The first sign is quite literally the exterior sign which depicts a one-eyed cat.\u00a0 Step inside the sun-drenched south-facing restaurant and you’ll espy a wall replete with posters featuring Rodney Dangerfield, the comedian whose shtick centered on getting no respect.\u00a0 To the right of the counter at which you’ll place your order is one of the most intriguing menus you’ll see anywhere in Albuquerque.\u00a0 In a city where the most creative name for a sandwich seems to be “Albuquerque Turkey” (groan), Tuerta’s menu is an entertaining breath of fresh air.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Landry Killed A Man<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

There are only eight sandwiches on the menu, each constructed on toasted torta rolls.\u00a0 All are made from scratch with slow roasted meats or veggies.\u00a0 If you don’t do gluten, most of the sandwiches can be made atop polenta or rice.\u00a0 These sandwiches are wholly unlike the paragons of parsimony served at some shameless sandwich shops (you know the type–thin slices of cold cuts, single sliced cheese with half an acre of lettuce).\u00a0 Tuerta sandwiches are Brobdingnagian in girth, generously endowed with high quality fresh ingredients.\u00a0 Unless you study the entertaining menu<\/strong><\/a>, you’ll probably have a hard time deciding which to order.\u00a0 Liam will probably advise you, as he did me, to start at the top.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

23 January 2020<\/strong>: During my inaugural visit, the sandwich at the top had the intriguing name of Landry Killed A Man<\/strong><\/em> (apple-braised brisket, roasted jalape\u00f1os, kale and apple salad, smoky sauce).\u00a0\u00a0 Liam explained that Landry is a character in a recurring NBC series centered around the lives of the Dillon Panthers, one of the nation’s best high school football teams.\u00a0\u00a0 Landry did kill a man in one episode, but the murder was never solved and never again mentioned. \u00a0 <\/span>Landry, as it turns out, is also the name of Liam’s other cat who (ostensibly) never killed a man.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Black Bean Soup<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Landry Killed A Man is a great, albeit quite messy, sandwich, a multi-napkin affair those of us with a carnivorous bent appreciate.\u00a0 The apple-braised brisket is the star and there’s plenty of it.\u00a0 There are also apples sliced into quarter-inch pieces.\u00a0 They lend a sweet-tart element and crispness that works well with the tender tendrils of moist brisket.\u00a0 Roasted jalape\u00f1os add a pleasant piquancy, nothing most New Mexican’s can’t handle.\u00a0 The smoky sauce, which accounts for much of the sandwich’s messiness, is a game-changer.\u00a0 It’s not entirely unlike barbecue sauce nor, despite its coloring, is it a Thousand Islands dressing imitator.\u00a0 It’s got plenty of personality, but doesn’t steal the show so much as it enhances every other element.\u00a0 This sandwich is a killer, but unlike the Friday Night Lights plot line, won’t be easily forgotten.<\/span><\/p>\n

22 January 2020<\/strong>: There were two soups on the menu on the day of my first visit, both enticing.\u00a0 January’s bitter bite made the choice obvious.\u00a0 The black bean chipotle soup<\/strong><\/em> has the soul-warming, belly-pleasing qualities that defeat the cold and sate the appetite.\u00a0 It’s a hearty soup with an inviting aroma that precedes it.\u00a0 You’d swear it took all day long to prepare this soup, so deeply are the flavors ingrained. \u00a0 The chipotle lends a distinctive smokiness and characteristic heat of jalape\u00f1os that have been ripened and smoke-dried.\u00a0 This is a soup that does the job all soups are supposed to do, namely give comfort, warmth and great taste.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
“But I Won’t Do That,” A Sandwich You’ll Want to Do Over and Over<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

29 January 2020<\/strong>:\u00a0 In 1993, Meat Loaf released an album titled Bat Out of Hell II: Back Into Hell whose first commercial success was a catchy tune called “I’d Do Anything for Love (But I Won’t Do That).”\u00a0 The perceived ambiguity as to just what Meat Loaf wouldn’t do remains a topic of discussion nearly two decades later.\u00a0 Fittingly Liam named a meatloaf sandwich “But I Won’t Do That<\/strong><\/em>” (beef meatloaf, spicy tomato sauce, lettuce-slaw, crunchy onions) though after having polished it off, you’ll probably be thinking to yourself that “I’d like to do that (order it) again.”\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

Unlike most meatloaf sandwiches, this isn’t a brick of meatloaf between buns.\u00a0 The meatloaf is crumbled, the way it is on your plate when you press down with your fork.\u00a0 Mine included some of those delightful caramelized edges where the meatloaf flavor is most intense.\u00a0 The spicy tomato sauce is an eye-opener, so much more lively than your conventional (boring) tomato sauce.\u00a0 There’s a nice element of crispness with the lettuce slaw and crunchy onions.\u00a0 Delicious as this sandwich is, the inevitable ear worm might give you pause to wonder just what it was Meat Loaf wouldn’t do for love.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Roasted Acorn Squash, Red Chile, Cilantro-Lime Aioli<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

29 January 2020<\/strong>: During my second visit, one of the two featured soups was a roasted acorn squash<\/strong><\/em> with red chile and cilantro-lime aioli.\u00a0 It was the soup Liam entered in the Roadrunner Food Bank’s Souper Bowl<\/strong><\/a>, the very best culinary event of any year. Though the soup didn’t earn people’s or critics’ choice honors, it was very well liked by the throngs who stopped by Liam’s booth.\u00a0 The roasted acorn squash, sourced locally, tastes like Fall, maybe even like Thanksgiving.\u00a0 It’s got a little bit of pumpkin pie sweetness, but that’s tempered by the mild red chile and cilantro-lime aioli.\u00a0 This is another exciting elixir which defeats doldrums and comforts the soul.<\/span><\/p>\n

Tuerta might just be the element that brings diners back to the Duke City’s downtown area. It’s not every sandwich shop which combines fun and flavor so well…and that menu is a better read than anything outside of Gil’s Thrilling. <\/span><\/p>\n

Tuerta<\/strong>
\n317 Central Avenue, N.W.
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 29 January 2020
\n1st VISIT<\/strong>: 23 January 2020
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 2
\nRATING<\/strong>: 23
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Landry Killed A Man; Spicy Black Bean Soup; Roasted Acorn Squash, Red Chile, Cilantro-Lime Aioli; But I Won’t Do That;
\nREVIEW #1144<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

“In the land of the blind, the man with one eye is King.” What would you name a one-eyed cat?\u00a0 One immediately obvious option is Cyclops for the one-eyed giant of Greek mythology.\u00a0 If you prefer Norse mythology, you could opt for the name Odin, the god of wisdom, poetry, death, divination, and magic.\u00a0 Or you could go with one-eyed movie characters such as Rooster Cogburn (True Grit), Snake Plissken (Escape from New York) or Big Dan Teague (O Brother Where Art Thou). \u00a0 A cuter option is Nick Furry, a play on the name of the director of SHIELD, the military counter-terrorism and intelligence agency of Marvel Comics lore.\u00a0 Sadly, aside from Leela, the one-eyed captain of the Planet…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":54033,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,1649,262,141,30],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-54019","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-closed-in-2022","category-closed","category-new-mexico","category-sandwich"],"yoast_head":"\nTuerta - 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