{"id":54235,"date":"2020-02-23T00:01:43","date_gmt":"2020-02-23T06:01:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=54235"},"modified":"2023-11-28T11:49:30","modified_gmt":"2023-11-28T17:49:30","slug":"urban-taqueria-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=54235","title":{"rendered":"Urban Taqueria -Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Urban Taqueria on First Street in Downtown Albuquerque<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

My sagacious friend Bill Resnik is like a 6’5″ Yoda. Perhaps because he was a stand-up comedian for several decades, he seems to invite good-natured teasing from among our mutual friends and colleagues.\u00a0 Like gunfighters sporting black hats in the westerns of yore, would-be comics seem to come out of the woodwork to challenge the fastest quipster in the west.\u00a0 Instead of six shooters, the villains arrive sporting their put-downs, taunts and insults…and like the white chapeau-wearing good guy fighting on behalf of the forces of goodness and niceness, Bill dispatches them quickly with witty retort. I once asked Bill how he could put up with constant ribbing from colleagues and friends.\u00a0 He reminded me that being offended is a choice.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

As my Kim and I were enjoying our inaugural dining experience at the Urban Taqueria, we were witness to an example of two people choosing to be offended.\u00a0 They strode to the counter, perused the menu and stormed out.\u00a0 The very menu we found innocuous–even funny–apparently offended them so much that they eschewed the opportunity to enjoy a fabulous brunch.\u00a0 Sadly, their behavior is something the Urban Taqueria has experienced virtually since its launch.\u00a0 So what is it about that menu that some find so offensive?<\/span><\/p>\n

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Would you find this menu offensive?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

All it takes is a quick perusal of the menu to see that it doesn’t subscribe to the typical template that (yawn) presents a boring litany of uninspiring and monotonous food item names and maybe the ingredients from which they’re made.\u00a0 Urban Taqueria’s menu inspires double- and triple-takes.\u00a0 Okay, it’s inspired a few walk-outs, too, but as owner Hanif Mohamed explained to KOAT TV “more than 99 percent, don’t seem to have an issue with it,” <\/em>adding that “the menu’s not designed to insult people or hurt people, but it’s just meant to keep the conversation going as to what’s happening around us<\/em>.”<\/span><\/p>\n

Despite the old maxim that you should never discuss politics or religion at the table, Urban Taqueria practically invites diners to discuss politics even as they\u2019re perusing a menu that names its food items for politically charged topics of our time such as “Lock Her Up<\/em>,” “The Mueller<\/em>,” “Fake News<\/em>,” “Wikileaks<\/em>,” “The Stormy<\/em>” and “The Wall<\/em>.”\u00a0 These are topics about which most of us have an opinion one way or another.\u00a0 The key, as Hanif implied is to have a conversation, not to storm out in a huff.\u00a0 Besides, once you’ve sampled the tacos and burritos for which these edgy topics are named, you’ll be talking about those tacos and burritos.<\/span><\/p>\n

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The View of Downtown Albuquerque From Urban Taqueria<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Urban Taqueria is an urban oasis in a downtown expanse that may as well be ten miles from heavily trafficked Central Avenue.\u00a0 Turn north from Route 66 toward the convention center and to your right you’ll espy the One Central ABQ building, a sprawling west-facing edifice with large glass windows that present some of the most enchanting views of Albuquerque’s downtown high-rises.\u00a0 Urban Taqueria was One Central’s first tenant, opening its doors in July, 2019. A wrapped parking structure includes 423 covered, secure spaces.\u00a0 It’s a short walk to the taqueria.<\/span><\/p>\n

Since its inception Urban Taqueria has been a popular draw among tourists staying in downtown area hotels as well as visitors to the nearby convention center.\u00a0 Regulars still smile at the cleverly named menu items just as we did when we first espied them.\u00a0 In a delicious twist of irony, when Hanif conceptualized the idea for Urban Taqueria, he envisioned it as a fast casual restaurant serving high-quality food.\u00a0 Instead, it’s become a destination restaurant in which guests like to linger and enjoy the fun, welcoming ambiance and outstanding food.\u00a0 Sure, it would be nice to have real silverware, but we chalk up the plasticware as just part of the experience.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Capacious Interior Includes Mural Honoring the Evolution of New Mexican Cuisine<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

With more than thirty years of food and beverage experience in 4 Star – 4 Diamond properties in the United States and his native Kenya, Hanif is one of those rare restaurateurs who won’t compromise on quality or take shortcuts.\u00a0 He <\/span>is proud to offer to the extent possible, products from local vendors and growers. He procures pinto beans from Estancia (there are none better in the world) and pork from a local south valley farmer.\u00a0 Fresh and organic are hallmarks of his menu. Tortillas and tortas are made fresh in-house daily. Flour is unbleached. The black beans, green chile and flour are organic. Chicken and eggs come Mary’s Chickens<\/strong><\/a>.\u00a0 You’ll pay just a little more for your food, but the quality really shows…and the flavors really sing.<\/span><\/p>\n

As Duke City diners know, when it comes to coaxing deliciousness out of any ingredient no one does it better than Chef Dennis Apodaca.\u00a0 As fate would have it, Hanif’s launch of Urban Taqueria coincided with the closure of Sophia’s<\/strong><\/a>, the second instantiation of Dennis’s famous flagship restaurant.\u00a0 Hanif brought Dennis in ostensibly to help with the July, 2019 launch of Urban Taqueria.\u00a0 Seven months later, the famous chef is still part of the taqueria’s landscape.\u00a0 The dynamic duo bounces ideas off one another and spur each other onto greater creativity.\u00a0 It’s a relationship that really works well and diners are the recipients of their combined genius.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

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One of the Very Best Salsa Bars in Town<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Seeing one of my favorite chefs in the country was just one of several delightful surprises greeting us during our inaugural visit.\u00a0 Another was the barbacoa brunch menu<\/strong><\/a>, one of the very best brunch menus we’ve seen in years.\u00a0 It’s the antithesis of so many predictable and boring brunch bills of fare.\u00a0 The taqueria’s cynosure is a colorful mural that pays tribute to the history of Mexican cuisine.\u00a0 A Spanish caravel sailing the azure waters of the Yucatan Peninsula is depicted below the mesmerizing countenance of a beautiful indigenous maiden, maybe even the infamous Malinche herself.\u00a0 It’s an evocative mural that should inspire contemplation.<\/span><\/p>\n

Since his days at Fajitaville, the name Dennis Apodaca is virtually synonymous with salsa.\u00a0 A complimentary salsa bar<\/strong><\/em> was also one of many inviting aspects of Hanif’s previous Duke City restaurant venture Krazy Lizard<\/strong><\/a>. Salsas are roasted and made fresh in house from fresh ingredients. Urban Taqueria offers five unique and delicious salsas, none of which can be described as “subtle”: roasted tomato-arbol salsa, a bit of piquancy with a hint of sweetness and acidity from the tomatoes; roasted tomatillo-arbol salsa, the salsa with the most bite tempered by acidity from the tomatillo; roasted jalape\u00f1o-tomatillo, well balanced with heat and acidity; salsa verde, classic salsa with a Krazy Lizard twist; and pico de gallo, bountiful, flavorful and caliente.\u00a0 Fortune smiled upon us because Dennis also made a flavor-packed chipotle salsa which my Kim enjoyed most. <\/span><\/p>\n

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154-Day Old Mole<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

16 February 2020<\/strong>: In March, 2013, Enrique Olvera<\/strong><\/a>, a Mexican chef trained at New York\u2019s Culinary Institute of America (the real CIA) decided to capitalize on the boundless potential of mole, the generic name given to several variations of rich, thick multi-colored sauces.\u00a0 Instead of <\/span>following a single recipe each morning, Olvera begins with a base left over from the previous day to which he adds seasonally available products, never in exactly the same combination. This process means his “Mole Madre,” as he calls it, has had dozens of different ingredients added to it since he embarked on this masterstroke. That’s nearly 2,500 days (as of this writing) of uninterrupted cooking with fresh products added to the existing base, giving the blend lively and slightly different character each day.<\/span><\/p>\n

In comparison, the 154-day old mole<\/strong><\/em> (as of our inaugural visit) at Urban Taqueria is in its infancy, a mere baby.\u00a0 Despite its relative “youth,” the depth of flavors generated by vegetables, nuts, aromatics and three types of chiles (including Ancho and Guajillo), the mole has a profound earthiness and a discernible complexity of flavors working together very harmoniously. The use of guajillo bespeaks of the authenticity Dennis pursues in his cooking. Guajillo, the dried form of the mirasol chile, is a mild, slightly sweet chile with notes of berries and tea.\u00a0 It’s so much better than making a mole with chocolate.\u00a0 As we sat down to await our brunch entrees, Dennis ferried a small cast iron vessel of mole over to our table.\u00a0 Had I not already ordered something else, I might have asked for a vat of this exceptional mole.\u00a0 It may be better than the transformative mole at La Guelaguetza<\/strong><\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Homemade Hash and Potatoes<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

16 February 2020<\/strong>: Not everyone has a high opinion of brunch. In his terrific tome Kitchen Confidential<\/a>,<\/strong> the late Tony Bourdain blew the lid off brunch, explaining that \u201cbrunch menus are an open invitation to the cost-conscious chef, a dumping ground for the odd bits left over from Friday and Saturday nights<\/em>\u201d adding that \u201cyou can dress brunch up with all the focaccia, smoked salmon, and caviar in the world, but it\u2019s still breakfast<\/em>.\u201d\u00a0 Brunch at Urban Taqueria is hardly a dumping ground of leftovers.\u00a0 In fact, none of the items on the brunch menu are available on the daily lunch and dinner menu. <\/span><\/p>\n

The Barbacoa Brunch is a prix fixe affair which includes aged mole, bottomless chips and salsa as well as your choice of beer or wine.\u00a0 One of the tempting entrees and the one for which the brunch is named is Lamb barbacoa (slow roasted NM Lamb, various toppings and garnishes, corn tortillas).\u00a0 If it’s your sweet tooth that needs to be sated on Sunday, you can also have Native Blue Corn Pancakes and Horchata French toast both served with barbacoa, butter and pineapple compote.\u00a0 Barbacoa is also served with huevos rancheros, whole grilled trout, breakfast burrito and homemade hash and potatoes.\u00a0 Sunday mornings have never had as many reasons to get up.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Duck Confit<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

16 February 2020<\/strong>: Hanif confided that his favorite brunch item is the homemade hash and<\/strong><\/em> potatoes<\/strong><\/em> with barbacoa or vegetables, roasted peppers and corn topped with a fried egg prepared your way and corn tortillas on the side. Writer Ambrose Bierce’s had it all wrong when he declared that “nobody knows what hash is<\/em>.”\u00a0 Urban Taqueria certainly knows hash, and if it doesn’t, its facsimile of this chopped meat dish is one of the most satisfying and delicious dishes you’ll ever have for brunch.\u00a0 Barbacoa is the star of this dish, a jumble of shredded tendrils of tender lamb.\u00a0 Cubed papitas add both a crispy, craggy exterior and tender exterior that holds up very well even when dragged through golden liquid egg yolk.<\/span><\/p>\n

16 February 2020<\/strong>: My Kim went off menu and ordered duck confit<\/strong><\/em>, a generous pile of silky, moist tendrils of shredded duck prepared in its own fat.\u00a0 For your taco creating convenience, it’s served on a banana leaf with sides of pickled red onion, chopped white onion, cilantro, lime slices and corn tortillas (or you can ask for flour tortillas if that be your preference). \u00a0 The duck is fatty, rich and just slightly gamy which makes the side ingredients a nice foil.\u00a0 Whether you enjoy the duck confit in taco form or you scoop it up with your fork, it’s a perfect Sunday indulgence.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Right to Left: Lobster Taco, The Outsourced, The Republicans<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

16 February 2020<\/strong>: When in Rome, you’re advised to do as Romans do.\u00a0 When you’re in a taqueria, you have tacos.\u00a0 If you find yourself offended by the politically charged names, you can always have something as innocuously named as the lobster taco<\/strong><\/em>. \u00a0 We actually found ourselves contemplating a rename, but we don’t have Hanif’s creativity or imagination.\u00a0 Thankfully the lobster taco isn’t battered and fried to golden brown.\u00a0 Nor is it smothered in an overpowering aioli or topped with a fruity salsa.\u00a0 While it was good, the skies didn’t open up to a chorus of angels singing its praises.\u00a0 Neither will I.\u00a0 Again, it was good…New Mexico lobster good, but there are better taco options.<\/span><\/p>\n

Among them are The Republicans<\/strong><\/em> (pastor style achiote – grilled pork tacos, arbol, grilled pineapple) which all but the most staunch\u00a0 Democrats will enjoy.\u00a0 Call it a taco for the bipartisan crowd.\u00a0 It’s about four bites of bliss, a delicious envelope of porcine perfection ameliorated by the sweetness of pineapple.\u00a0 Fusion fanatics will love the India meets Mexico taco known as The<\/strong><\/em> Outsourced<\/strong><\/em> (tandoori chicken, raita, tamarind salsa).\u00a0 You’ll never again have to wonder what an East Indian taco tastes like.\u00a0 It’s delicious!<\/span><\/p>\n

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The Stormy Smothered With Mole<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

20 February 2020<\/strong>:\u00a0 Though our inaugural visit left us very contented, the one dish which impressed itself most prominently on my taste buds was the 154-day mole.\u00a0 Perhaps it’s because my palate is treated (or subjected) to so many varied flavor profiles, it’s rare that any one item remains ingrained in my mind for five days.\u00a0 That’s how long it took me to return to Urban Taqueria to confirm what my taste buds had been telling me–that this is one phenomenal mole.\u00a0 There are, however, no mole dishes on the menu.\u00a0 Thankfully Hanif and Dennis were very accommodating in my request for a burrito smothered in mole.<\/span><\/p>\n

The question was which of the seven burritos would go best under a blanket of molten mole…or would it be best to invoke the “build your own burri” option.\u00a0 Dennis suggested The Stormy<\/strong><\/em> (carne adovada, Mexican rice, pinto beans) and who am I to argue with the genius chef.\u00a0 Besides, the notion of how well pork already marinated in red chile would go with a deeply earthy, preternaturally delicious mole piqued my interest.\u00a0 Count on Dennis to once again discern flavors that work exceptionally well together.\u00a0 The moist and tender carne adovada doesn’t have much piquancy, but its flavor bespeaks of New Mexico enchantment.\u00a0 True to its name, The Stormy is curvy and full-bodied.\u00a0 Smothering it in mole makes it a sensual experience involving gratification of the senses…especially your taste buds which will delight in its deliciousness.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Left: Mexican Vanilla and Pineapple Ice Cream; Right: Mexican Chocolate with Ancho Chile and Cherries<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

16 February 2020<\/strong>: Urban Taqueria’s culinary mastery isn’t limited to savory and piquant dishes.\u00a0 You can’t get to the counter where you place your order without passing by a freezer showcasing tubfuls of Mexican style ice cream.\u00a0 As with Italian gelato, “the key to creating <\/em>Mexican-style ice cream and sorbet is to treat the freshest ingredients simply<\/em>.” \u00a0 \u201cYou should be able to close your eyes and feel like you\u2019re almost taking a bite out of the main ingredients.<\/em>\u201d\u00a0 That’s advice straight from Fany Gerson, author of Mexican Ice Cream Beloved Recipes and Stories<\/strong><\/a>.\u00a0 We sampled three flavors: Mexican vanilla, pineapple and Mexican chocolate with Ancho chile and cherries and lived the sensations Gerson described.\u00a0 In New Mexico only El Cotorro<\/strong><\/a> creates ice cream as wonderful as does Urban Taqueria.<\/span><\/p>\n

16 February 2020<\/strong>: You no longer have to travel to Mexico to experience fruit cups, an ubiquitous Mexican snack sold in street markets and restaurants alike.\u00a0 It’s typically made with fresh fruit that\u2019s been cubed or cut into long spears, stacked into clear plastic cups and topped with Tajin chile lime seasoning, chamoy sauce and lime juice.\u00a0 Urban Taqueria’s rendition of the fruit cup<\/strong><\/em> (diced mangoes, tajin, chamoy, lime juice) is as good as any you’ll find in the Land of Montezuma.\u00a0 Since introducing my Kim to chamoy (a syrupy sauce made from pickled fruit mixed with spicy chiles and a salty brine), she’s craved that perfect blend of sweet, sour salty and spicy deliciousness which pairs beautifully with sweet fruit.\u00a0 It’s become an obsession for both of us.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Fruit Cup<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

It’s not every restaurant in the Land of Enchantment which–within weeks of its opening–is featured on Newsweek, CNN, New York Daily News, Yahoo and even Fox News.\u00a0 While national media articles sensationalized a minor controversy, they completely missed the boat.\u00a0 They also missed enjoying some of the most delicious food you’ll find in the Southwest.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

Urban Taqueria<\/strong>
\n1 Central Avenue, N.W., #1
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 27 February 2020
\n1st VISIT<\/strong>: 16 February 2020
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 2
\nRATING<\/strong>: 24
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Salsa and Chips, Mole, Homemade Hash and Potatoes, Duck Confit, Lobster Taco, The Republicans, Outsourced, Mexican Vanilla Ice Cream, Pineapple Ice Cream, Mexican Chocolate with Ancho Chile and Cherries Ice Cream, Fruit Cup, Stormy Smothered in Mole
\nREVIEW #1150<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

My sagacious friend Bill Resnik is like a 6’5″ Yoda. Perhaps because he was a stand-up comedian for several decades, he seems to invite good-natured teasing from among our mutual friends and colleagues.\u00a0 Like gunfighters sporting black hats in the westerns of yore, would-be comics seem to come out of the woodwork to challenge the fastest quipster in the west.\u00a0 Instead of six shooters, the villains arrive sporting their put-downs, taunts and insults…and like the white chapeau-wearing good guy fighting on behalf of the forces of goodness and niceness, Bill dispatches them quickly with witty retort. I once asked Bill how he could put up with constant ribbing from colleagues and friends.\u00a0 He reminded me that being offended is a…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":54248,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,165,839,703,262,57,141],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-54235","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-brunch","category-closed-in-2021","category-dog-friendly","category-closed","category-mexican","category-new-mexico"],"yoast_head":"\nUrban Taqueria -Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED) - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=54235\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Urban Taqueria -Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED) - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"My sagacious friend Bill Resnik is like a 6’5″ Yoda. Perhaps because he was a stand-up comedian for several decades, he seems to invite good-natured teasing from among our mutual friends and colleagues.\u00a0 Like gunfighters sporting black hats in the westerns of yore, would-be comics seem to come out of the woodwork to challenge the fastest quipster in the west.\u00a0 Instead of six shooters, the villains arrive sporting their put-downs, taunts and insults…and like the white chapeau-wearing good guy fighting on behalf of the forces of goodness and niceness, Bill dispatches them quickly with witty retort. 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