{"id":55043,"date":"2020-06-06T18:02:52","date_gmt":"2020-06-07T00:02:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=55043"},"modified":"2026-04-06T14:02:59","modified_gmt":"2026-04-06T20:02:59","slug":"umami-moto-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=55043","title":{"rendered":"Umami Moto – Albuquerque, New Mexico"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
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Umami Moto, Asian Flair on Four Wheels<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In the vernacular of the cannabis culture–as I learned growing up in Northern New Mexico–the term “moto<\/em>” translates from Spanish to “someone who enjoys “mota,<\/strong><\/a>” a slang term for marijuana<\/em>.”\u00a0 Visitors to the Duke City from Espa\u00f1ola, Pe\u00f1asco, Chimayo and other villages up North would probably giggle if they espied the mobile kitchen (that’s food truck to you, Bob) named Umami Moto.\u00a0 Though Umami Moto won’t be able to sate the cannabis cravings of any weed wanters, it would certainly take care of their munchies after they’ve scored a lid or two.<\/span><\/p>\n

With all due respect to hippie-lettuce-lovers everywhere, the term “moto<\/em>” for which the aforementioned mobile kitchen is named is a Japanese term which means: “the cause; the foundation; the basis<\/em>.”\u00a0 Umami is also a Japanese term, but it’s one that’s not so easy to define.\u00a0 You might even say it’s the je ne sais quoi of culinary terms.\u00a0 At its essence, umami is the \u201cfifth taste<\/em>,\u201d after salty, sweet, sour, and bitter, but it’s so much more.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Cleveland’s Loss is Albuquerque’s Gain<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Writing for New Yorker, Hannah Goldfield defined umami<\/strong> <\/a>as “that other thing, the thing you didn\u2019t even know needed a concept or a name until someone pointed it out. That deep, dark, meaty intensity that distinguishes seared beef, soy sauce, ripe tomato, Parmesan cheese, anchovies, and mushrooms, among other things. It hits the back of your throat and leaves you craving more<\/em>.”\u00a0 She goes on to explain that umami translates to the “deliciousness<\/em>” which occurs “when molecular compounds in glutamic acid\u2014glutamates\u2014bind to specific tongue receptors<\/em>.”<\/span><\/p>\n

Taken together Umami Moto translates from Japanese to “the basis for deliciousness<\/em>.”\u00a0 That’s an apt description (as well as ambitious mission) for the mobile kitchen which hit the mean streets of Albuquerque in 2019 after nine years of tearing it up in Cleveland (Ohio, not New Mexico).\u00a0\u00a0 Its pedigree includes a “Best of Cleveland” award in 2012 from the Cleveland Scene, an alternative weekly similar to Albuquerque’s Alibi.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Cold Kimchi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Before the covid crisis, Umami Moto was making significant inroads in the Duke City dining scene.\u00a0 As with brick-and-mortar restaurant operations, owners Jae Stulock and Sandy Madachik are figuring out how to navigate the “evolving normal.”\u00a0 We caught up with them at the Marble Street Brewery’s Northeast Heights Taproom.\u00a0 Jae <\/span>told me he and Sandy relocated to New Mexico because they love the outdoors, though he does miss the water.\u00a0 I reminded him that Cleveland’s Cuyahoga River actually caught fire a few years ago.\u00a0 Though he’s heard all the “Mistake by the Lake” jokes, the Cleveland native is very gracious.<\/span><\/p>\n

Jae sees parallels between Albuquerque’s evolving culinary scene and that of Cleveland which he explained has four active James Beard award-winning chefs as well as a Michelin starred chef.\u00a0\u00a0 Cleveland also has a very dynamic mobile culinary scene.\u00a0 As such, being singled out as one of the best is quite an honor.\u00a0 At one point, Umami Moto’s popularity had grown so much that Jae and Sandy launched a brick-and-mortar operation next door to the famous Agora Theatre and Ballroom.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Potstickers<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

During our inaugural visit, Umami Moto was offering an abbreviated menu, essentially only three starters (Viet-style meatballs, potstickers and cold kimchi) and three entrees (sesame noodle, Korean burrito and fish tacos).\u00a0 It’s a far cry from the full repertoire of menu items mentioned on the truck’s Facebook page.\u00a0 Still, the promise of “the basis of deliciousness” literally had our mouths watering.\u00a0 So did the alluring aromas emanating from the parked vehicle.<\/span><\/p>\n

In February, 2013, Michelle Obama tweeted her recipe for kimchi<\/strong><\/a>, bringing a lot of attention to the spicy fermented cabbage.\u00a0 Making kimchi is a time-consuming and laborious process, even for Koreans who have been making it for generations, yet the former first lady’s recipe seemed about as difficult to make as a salad.\u00a0 It’s a good starting point for anyone wanting to try one of Korea’s national dishes.\u00a0 The version served by Umami Moto is certainly more complex.\u00a0 Its range of flavors and aromas–piquant, pungent, sour, tangy and sweet–place it squarely in the category of umami.\u00a0 Its intense garlicky flavor and prominent sour notes place it in rarefied air.\u00a0 This is a great kimchi!<\/span><\/p>\n

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Sesame Noodles with Bulgogi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Thankfully (so I can have it all), my Kim eschews kimchi altogether, a fact that’s hard to reconcile considering she eats garlic as if trying to ward off a village of vampires.\u00a0 Her starter of choice were Umami Moto’s pork potstickers<\/strong><\/em>.\u00a0 These aren’t the pleated crescent moon-shaped potstickers we’re accustomed to…or perhaps they’re “smooshed down” versions of the more elongated ones we typically enjoy.\u00a0 Irrespective of shape, these were absolutely delicious one-bite-sized morsels of juicy pork that didn’t need any type of dipping sauce.<\/span><\/p>\n

Noodles have a traditional and historic role in the Chinese diet, dating as far back as the Han Dynasty of 206 B.C. Many Chinese dishes call for the use of sesame oil. \u00a0 Cold noodles<\/span> are often splashed with this oil prior to serving, a practice that may have been the genesis of sesame noodles.\u00a0<\/strong> <\/em>Variations of the dish called sesame noodles are plentiful.\u00a0 Umami Moto’s version is made with wheat noodles tossed with cucumber, carrots and daikon then drizzled with a sesame dressing and punctuated with edamame and sesame seeds.\u00a0 While the menu offers this dish with shrimp, my Kim asked to substitute bulgogi for the shrimp.\u00a0 This was a genius move, elevating what would have been a superb dish into something nearly transformative.\u00a0\u00a0 This is a dish best served cold and best served by Umami Moto!<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Korean Burrito<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The promise of a fantastic fusion of New Mexican and Korean ingredients drew me to the Korean Burrito<\/strong> <\/em>(bulgogi beef, napa kochu-queso, onion, carrot, daikon, cilantro on a flour tortilla) which is available extra hot.\u00a0 There were two…make that three, huge surprises about this dish that blew me away.\u00a0 First, the conventional train of thought is that Asians don’t eat dairy, especially cheese.\u00a0 Forget that notion!\u00a0 According to Kimchi: The Korean Food Journal<\/strong><\/a>, “Korea is the fifth largest importer of American dairy and growing. It consumes so much cheese, it affects U.S. dairy prices<\/em>.”\u00a0\u00a0 We hadn’t expected queso on a Korean burrito, but found it absolutely belongs.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

The second surprise is that the bulgogi beef was not the more commonly used top sirloin, rib eye or beef tenderloin sliced into strips, but hamburger.\u00a0 It worked surprisingly well and was an excellent vehicle for the bulgogi marinade (surprise number three).\u00a0 Bulgogi in this town ranges from sweet to nearly cloying, a true meat candy.\u00a0 Umami Moto’s version is wholly different.\u00a0 It’s got sweet notes, but it’s got more complexity than any bulgogi we’ve had in New Mexico.\u00a0 Its flavor profile runs the gamut–slightly salty, mildly sweet and nutty savory.\u00a0 It’s tender, juicy and magical, a standard-bearer.\u00a0 The Korean burrito is roughly the size of a piece of firewood, but it’s so good you’ll probably finish it and want more.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

Cleveland’s loss is most definitely Albuquerque’s gain.\u00a0 Mobile kitchens had better step up their game because Umami Moto is here to win you over with umami-kissed food that’ll surprise and delight you.<\/span><\/p>\n

Umami Moto<\/strong>
\nLocation Varies
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\n(216) 254-5202
\nFacebook Page<\/strong><\/a>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 6 June 2020
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 1
\nRATING<\/strong>: N\/R
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Cold Kimchi, Potstickers, Sesame Noodles with Bulgogi, Korean Burrito
\nREVIEW #1166<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In the vernacular of the cannabis culture–as I learned growing up in Northern New Mexico–the term “moto” translates from Spanish to “someone who enjoys “mota,” a slang term for marijuana.”\u00a0 Visitors to the Duke City from Espa\u00f1ola, Pe\u00f1asco, Chimayo and other villages up North would probably giggle if they espied the mobile kitchen (that’s food truck to you, Bob) named Umami Moto.\u00a0 Though Umami Moto won’t be able to sate the cannabis cravings of any weed wanters, it would certainly take care of their munchies after they’ve scored a lid or two. With all due respect to hippie-lettuce-lovers everywhere, the term “moto” for which the aforementioned mobile kitchen is named is a Japanese term which means: “the cause; the foundation;…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":55049,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,277,731,141,5647],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-55043","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-asian","category-food-truck","category-new-mexico","category-rating-n-r"],"yoast_head":"\nUmami Moto - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=55043\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Umami Moto - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"In the vernacular of the cannabis culture–as I learned growing up in Northern New Mexico–the term “moto” translates from Spanish to “someone who enjoys “mota,” a slang term for marijuana.”\u00a0 Visitors to the Duke City from Espa\u00f1ola, Pe\u00f1asco, Chimayo and other villages up North would probably giggle if they espied the mobile kitchen (that’s food truck to you, Bob) named Umami Moto.\u00a0 Though Umami Moto won’t be able to sate the cannabis cravings of any weed wanters, it would certainly take care of their munchies after they’ve scored a lid or two. 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