{"id":59168,"date":"2021-11-13T00:01:17","date_gmt":"2021-11-13T06:01:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=59168"},"modified":"2026-04-06T14:39:33","modified_gmt":"2026-04-06T20:39:33","slug":"biscuit-boy-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=59168","title":{"rendered":"Biscuit Boy – Albuquerque, New Mexico"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
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Owner Deonte “Dee” Halsey Mans The Biscuit Boy Booth at La Esquinita on 4th Street<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In Boris Pasternak’s Dr Zhivago,<\/em> a sagacious old Russian czarist caught up in the communist revolution lamented “Scratch a Russian and you will find a peasant.” \u00a0<\/em>To paraphrase that immortal line\u00a0“Scratch a cook and you’ll find a chemist<\/em>.” \u00a0Think I’ve been ingesting pharmaceuticals? \u00a0Maybe you should ask Deonte “Dee” Halsey, the affable owner of Biscuit Boy about the influence of chemistry in cooking.\u00a0 He would know!\u00a0 Dee was actually a research scientist working for the U.S. Department of Architecture before figuring out teaching science actually pays more than doing science.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Dee has been teaching science and math for more than two decades now, imparting knowledge and wisdom to high school, middle school and elementary school students.\u00a0 For the past two years or so, he’s also been spending weekends hawking some of the very best biscuits you’ll find in the Land of Enchantment.\u00a0 On Saturday you can find him at La Esquinita<\/a>, a center for cultural flourishment in the Barelas neighborhood.\u00a0 \u00a0A mixed-use development combining housing, food, arts and retail, La Esquinita is yet another reason to visit Barelas.\u00a0 <\/span>On Sundays “in season” he plies his sideline at the <\/span>Rail Yards Market<\/strong><\/a> in Albuquerque.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Southern Belle<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Though he grew up in Los Angeles, Dee has been around Southern cuisine for most of his life.\u00a0 His childhood home was about a block away from Roscoe’s House of Chicken and Waffles<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0 an exemplar of biscuit baking.\u00a0 After high school, Dee got his Bachelors degree from Middle Tennessee State in Nashville.\u00a0 In between obtaining a Masters degree from Loyola University in Maryland, Dee taught math and science in Atlanta, Temple Hills (Maryland) and Houston before joining the Albuquerque school system in August, 2016.\u00a0 To say he became acquainted with some of the best purveyors of Southern cuisine is an understatement.<\/span><\/p>\n

Like most of us who lived and ate in the Deep South, Dee is familiar with the long-established contention that the real reason Southern biscuits are superior is soft wheat flour, specifically White Lily<\/strong><\/a> self-rising bleached flour.\u00a0 Chemistry, the knowledge of ingredients in exacting proportions, is why Dee believes great biscuits can be made with New Mexico-only ingredients.\u00a0 Well, that and the Maillard Reaction<\/strong><\/a> which creates flavor and changes the color of food through a chemical reaction involving heat, sugar and an amino acid.\u00a0 It’s all very scientific, but as we found out Dee can reduce all that chemistry into understandable terms.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"B.E.C.
B.E.C. (Bacon, Egg and Cheese)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Dee is understandably very proud of his biscuits, made almost exclusively with New Mexico ingredients.\u00a0 He obtains corn and wheat flour from the Navajo Reservation in the Four Corners and has the flour milled at the Valencia Flour Mill<\/strong><\/a> in Jarales.\u00a0 He sources his chile from a farmer in the South Valley.\u00a0 Ingredients aside, Dee knows what he’s doing and has very high standards for biscuits.\u00a0 He wants them fluffy and light not dense and solid.\u00a0 By the way, chemistry can explain why some biscuits are crumbly and others hold their integrity (and have no flavor).<\/span><\/p>\n

Biscuit Boy is named for Dee’s son who’s very fond of biscuits.\u00a0 You won’t soon find Biscuit Boy in a stand-alone brick and mortar until Dee retires from teaching several years from now.\u00a0 Proffering biscuits on weekends keeps him busy enough.\u00a0 For his Saturday gig at La Esquinita, he prepares some sixty biscuit sandwiches and individual biscuits for butter and jam.\u00a0 Early shift patrons snap up most of those sixty biscuits.\u00a0 Get there after eleven and pickings will be slim, albeit still quite delicious.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Nashville Hot Chicken<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The name “Biscuit Boy,” by the way describes the entirety of the menu.\u00a0 Biscuits are the only thing available–no sides or appetizers.\u00a0 If you want something to drink (and if you order the Nashville Hot, you might soon be begging for water), you’re only a few feet away from Novel Point Coffee<\/strong><\/a> where we surrendered to an addictive pecan cocoa.\u00a0 Scrawled on a white board the day of our inaugural visit was a menu listing just five items, four of which were still available when we got to La Esquinita just after 11AM.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

To be considered a “Southern Belle,” a young lady must first be presented into society either through a debutante ball or cotillion.\u00a0 Biscuit Boy has another way–fried chicken, fried apples and Cheddar cheese nestled in a fluffy buttermilk biscuit.\u00a0 As James Beard award-winning author Jason Sheehan<\/strong><\/a> (formerly of The Alibi) says “I don\u2019t know what it is about fried chicken that makes it so special, but I know that it is.\u00a0 Maybe it\u2019s that it\u2019s monolithic \u2014 its definition contained entirely within its name<\/em>.”\u00a0 Biscuit Boy’s fried chicken is special–a crispy coating sheathing moist, tender, perfect poultry.\u00a0 \u00a0If you’ve ever had apple pie with Cheddar, you can understand just how well fried apples and Cheddar complement fried chicken.\u00a0 Expect to be wowed by this Southern Belle<\/strong><\/em>!<\/span><\/p>\n

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Biscuits, Butter & Jam. Hot Damn!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Not everyone across the country is fortunate enough to wake up to the sacrosanct breakfast burritos which are ubiquitous throughout the Land of Enchantment.\u00a0 In the great South, you’re infinitely more likely to have a biscuit sandwich usually one stuffed with egg, cheese and bacon.\u00a0 Dee calls his version the B.E.C.\u00a0\u00a0<\/em><\/strong>You’ll call it absolutely delicious.\u00a0 First of all, the biscuit rises to your expectations.\u00a0 It’s fluffy, flaky and delicious, the perfect repository for egg, cheese and bacon.<\/span><\/p>\n

Back in 2016, a number of restaurant publications predicted a big biscuit trend across the fruited plain.\u00a0 \u00a0Expectations were that biscuit concept restaurants would be all the rage.\u00a0 Sadly, that trend never really manifested.\u00a0 Sure, a few joints offered breakfast biscuit sandwiches, but that\u2019s about it.\u00a0 An explosion of Nashville hot chicken restaurants was similarly predicted.\u00a0 As with biscuit themed restaurants, there just aren’t that many of them.\u00a0 Dee’s Nashville Hot<\/strong><\/em> melds the two concepts magnificently.\u00a0 Unlike the traditional Nashville hot chicken which relies primarily on cayenne for its heat, Dee also incorporates New Mexico red chile into his chicken.\u00a0 That red chile makes a difference.\u00a0 It tempers the piquancy of the cayenne while imparting sweet notes of flavor that make this a transcendent sandwich.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
Biscuit Boy Menu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Biscuit Boy isn’t a laboratory in which beakers of bubbling chemicals spill over, but a pretty brilliant scientist uses chemistry to concoct some of the best biscuits you’ll find in the Land of Enchantment.<\/span><\/p>\n

Biscuit Boy<\/strong>
\n507 4th Street, S.W.
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\n(505) 750-8269
\nWebsite<\/strong><\/a> | Facebook Page<\/strong><\/a>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 13 November 2021
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 1
\nRATING<\/strong>: N\/R
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Southern Belle, B.E.C., Nashville Hot Chicken
\nREVIEW #1243<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In Boris Pasternak’s Dr Zhivago, a sagacious old Russian czarist caught up in the communist revolution lamented “Scratch a Russian and you will find a peasant.” \u00a0To paraphrase that immortal line\u00a0“Scratch a cook and you’ll find a chemist.” \u00a0Think I’ve been ingesting pharmaceuticals? \u00a0Maybe you should ask Deonte “Dee” Halsey, the affable owner of Biscuit Boy about the influence of chemistry in cooking.\u00a0 He would know!\u00a0 Dee was actually a research scientist working for the U.S. Department of Architecture before figuring out teaching science actually pays more than doing science.\u00a0 Dee has been teaching science and math for more than two decades now, imparting knowledge and wisdom to high school, middle school and elementary school students.\u00a0 For the past two…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":59171,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,540,165,703,141,5647,567],"tags":[1392,1389,734,1391,1388,1390],"class_list":["post-59168","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-breakfast","category-brunch","category-dog-friendly","category-new-mexico","category-rating-n-r","category-southern","tag-barelas","tag-bec","tag-biscuits","tag-la-esquinita","tag-nashville-hot-chicken","tag-southern-belle"],"yoast_head":"\nBiscuit Boy - 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Please take a few minutes to tell me what you think. 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