{"id":60627,"date":"2022-05-21T00:01:18","date_gmt":"2022-05-21T06:01:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=60627"},"modified":"2025-01-28T12:06:59","modified_gmt":"2025-01-28T18:06:59","slug":"el-roi-cafe","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=60627","title":{"rendered":"El Roi Cafe – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)"},"content":{"rendered":"
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The El Roi Cafe in Albuquerque<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

You know you’ve been involved in project management for too long when the only thing that comes to mind when told about a restaurant named “El Roi” is “why would a restaurant be named for a Return on Investment (ROI).”\u00a0 For those of us who have worked in Information Technology, ROI is a financial ratio used to calculate the benefit an investor will receive in relation to their investment cost.\u00a0 Restaurants<\/span> often have a poor return of investment–not just in financial capital, but in human capital.\u00a0 Restaurants require a significant investment in time by owners as well as kitchen and “front of the house” staffs and the financial return isn’t exactly lucrative.\u00a0 My Kim theorized that Roi is probably a preferred derivation of Roy.\u00a0 “By poor spellers<\/em>,” I chortled.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

It turns out my brainy bride was correct…well, almost.\u00a0 According to Namedat<\/strong><\/a>, a website which takes social security administration data and converts it to facts and stats about names of people in the United States, there are actually 8,706 humans in the country with the first name Roi.\u00a0 Naturally one of the very first questions we asked when we finally made it to El Roi is just what does the name mean.\u00a0 Owner-chef Joshua Archuleta explained “El Roi” was the name by which an Egyptian slave named Hagar addressed God.\u00a0 This event from Genesis 16:13 is the only time in which “El Roi” is found in the Bible.\u00a0 Translating to “the God who sees me,” El Roi ascribes another attribute to God.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Order at the Counter<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Chef Archuleta so admires the Genesis passage that he uses a framed placard to answer the question “Who is El Roi.”\u00a0 He’s also quite proud of an autograph legendary artist Georgia O’Keeffe presented to his grandmother.\u00a0 O’Keeffe actually shared some of her recipes with the chef’s grandmother.\u00a0 Some of the items on the menu are prepared from those recipes.\u00a0 Framed paintings from famous Navajo artist Fred Cleveland,\u00a0<\/strong><\/a> a frequent guest at El Roi, hang on one wall.\u00a0 There’s something to see everywhere you turn at this Lilliputian space.<\/span><\/p>\n

As interesting as the artwork is, one of the “decorative touches” which most got our attention is a large wooden crate next to the pastry case. Haystacks Calhoun<\/strong><\/a>‘s coffin I jested.\u00a0 Thankfully Chef Archuleta clarified that the “crate” is used to store supplies not as an oversized coffin.\u00a0 The pastry case is where the featured cake or pie of the day is in full display while the menu on a wall behind the order counter not only lists menu items, but photographs that show how tasty they are.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Framed Georgia O’Keeffe Autograph<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

El Roi has a Lomas address, but it’s recessed somewhat and not exactly easy to find.\u00a0 If you’re driving west and see Pasion Latin Fusion<\/strong><\/a>, you’ve gone too far.\u00a0 It’s also not especially large; it’s basically half of a duplex structure with one half unoccupied.\u00a0 Step inside and the restaurant’s size is even more evident.\u00a0 Most seating is “two top<\/strong><\/a>” and there aren’t a lot of them.\u00a0 It may surprise you therefore that the menu is pretty ambitious, offering both Native American and New Mexican cuisine.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

Among the former are blue corn mush, mutton stew, a fry bread green chile cheeseburger (with or without fries), Indian taco, mutton sandwich and sweet fry bread bites.\u00a0 The fry bread green chile cheeseburger was one of “20 Burgers You Need to Eat Now<\/strong><\/a>” according to New Mexico Magazine.\u00a0 In its May, 2022 edition the magazine essentially declared those 20 burgers the “top 20 green chile cheeseburgers” in the state.\u00a0 Read what New Mexico Magazine had to say in the paragraph below.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Mutton Sandwich<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

“The El Roi wants to Indigenize your green chile cheeseburger game. When owner Fabby Espitia-Archuleta opened the Albuquerque diner with her husband, Joshua Archuleta, in May 2021, they set out to help at-risk community members gain job skills. The result is a menu of traditional New Mexican and Native American comfort foods, including a frybread green chile cheeseburger ($13). \u201cThe frybread gives it so much more flavor,\u201d says Fabby, who emphasizes that a sopaipilla and frybread are not the same. \u201cWe do a traditional frybread from scratch,\u201d using a recipe from Joshua\u2019s family in Ohkay Owingeh Pueblo. \u201cThere\u2019s not enough Native restaurants,\u201d she says. \u201cSo that\u2019s something we are trying to grow<\/em>.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

You might think that with such an effusive endorsement, I would have leapt at the opportunity to add another green chile cheeseburger to my trophy wall, but (darn that menu) the prospect of a mutton sandwich <\/strong><\/em>overruled my burger cravings.\u00a0 You just don’t find many mutton sandwiches in Central New Mexico even though it’s a staple in the Native American community.\u00a0 Not on bread is this sandwich presented, but on crispy fry bread.\u00a0 In addition to the tender, grass-fed cuts of lamb, the sandwich includes a pleasantly piquant green chile and melted cheese.\u00a0 It’s a very good sandwich though as with too many sandwiches, my sole complaint is the stinginess of the ingredients (specifically the lamb).\u00a0 With a more generous portion, this sandwich would warrant lots of love and attention from Gil’s Thrilling.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Steak and Eggs<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Never mind Native American and New Mexican food.\u00a0 Sometimes my Chicago-born-and-bred bride craves the foods (mostly meat and potatoes)of her homeland\u00a0 and not even chile can assuage her cravings.\u00a0 Her cravings were sated with a plate of steak and eggs <\/strong><\/em>(she eschewed potatoes and asked for corn).\u00a0 She’s a much bigger fan of steak than her husband so we’ll have to take her word for it that this plate was excellent.\u00a0 Me, unless it has red and (or) green chile, I won’t touch a steak at a New Mexican restaurant.<\/span><\/p>\n

Dessert options include mini fry breads covered in powdered sugar and topped with chocolate syrup and ice cream (two scoops in a bowl).\u00a0 A cheesecake<\/strong> <\/em>in the pastry case was my Kim’s choice.\u00a0 Topped with a strawberry sauce, it was a rich, creamy and delicious postprandial choice.\u00a0 So was the watermelon agua fresca<\/strong><\/em>, a refreshing beverage any time of year but especially on a hot May day.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Cheesecake<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

One of these days I’ll invite my Information Technology colleagues to El Roi to enjoy their confusion.\u00a0 The nerdier ones will probably pull out their calculators to figure out whether the investment warrants the cost.\u00a0 Others will discern it’s another one of Gil’s restaurant finds.\u00a0 They’ll enjoy it as much as we did.<\/span><\/p>\n

El Roi Cafe<\/strong>
\n616 Lomas Boulevard, N.W., Suite A
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 11 May 2022
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 1
\nRATING<\/strong>: N\/R
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Mutton Sandwich, Sweet Potato Fries, Steak & Eggs
\nREVIEW<\/strong> #1274 <\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

You know you’ve been involved in project management for too long when the only thing that comes to mind when told about a restaurant named “El Roi” is “why would a restaurant be named for a Return on Investment (ROI).”\u00a0 For those of us who have worked in Information Technology, ROI is a financial ratio used to calculate the benefit an investor will receive in relation to their investment cost.\u00a0 Restaurants often have a poor return of investment–not just in financial capital, but in human capital.\u00a0 Restaurants require a significant investment in time by owners as well as kitchen and “front of the house” staffs and the financial return isn’t exactly lucrative.\u00a0 My Kim theorized that Roi is probably a…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":60640,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,3569,703,262,525,112,141],"tags":[1950,1951,1155,1945,1949,842,1947,1948,748,1952,1013,763,1946],"class_list":["post-60627","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-closed-in-2024","category-dog-friendly","category-closed","category-native-american","category-new-mexican","category-new-mexico","tag-cheesecake","tag-delmonico-steak","tag-dog-friendly-patio","tag-genesis-1613","tag-georgia-okeeffe","tag-green-chile-cheeseburger","tag-homemade-cakes","tag-homemade-pies","tag-lomas","tag-mutton-stew","tag-native-american-cuisine","tag-new-mexican-cuisine","tag-new-mexico-magazine"],"yoast_head":"\nEl Roi Cafe - 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