{"id":62803,"date":"2023-01-27T00:01:57","date_gmt":"2023-01-27T06:01:57","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=62803"},"modified":"2023-02-11T17:06:47","modified_gmt":"2023-02-11T23:06:47","slug":"los-olivos-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=62803","title":{"rendered":"Los Olivos – Albuquerque, New Mexico"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Los Olivos on Zuni in the International District<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

For many New Mexicans, Durango, Colorado is much more familiar than Durango, Mexico. \u00a0In truth, however, Mexico’s Durango may actually have more historical significance and ties to the Land of Enchantment than its like-named resort town in Colorado. \u00a0That’s especially true for the Catholic Churches of New Mexico. Episcopal jurisdiction for the Catholic church in New Mexico was placed in 1797 under the stewardship of the Bishop of Durango. New Mexico remained part of the Diocese of Durango until 1850 when Pope Pius IX created the Vicariate Apostolic of New Mexico and appointed Father Jean Baptiste Lamy as its first Bishop. \u00a0Yes, that’s the same Father Jean Baptiste Lamy on whom Wila Cather’s Death Comes For the Archbishop<\/strong><\/a> is based.<\/span><\/p>\n

Durango, Mexico was also a significant “paraje” (stopping point) along the The Camino Real de Tierra Adentro (Royal Road of the Interior Land<\/span>), the 1,590 mile road between Mexico City and San Juan Pueblo (Ohkay Owingeh), New Mexico. During the 17th Century, the area between the villas of Durango and Santa Fe also came to be known as “the Chihuahua Trail.” \u00a0 It’s a vast understatement to declare that Santa Fe’s reliance on El Camino Real was crucial to the city’s survival. \u00a0The Trail was the very lifeline of Santa Fe. \u00a0For the entirety of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, every commodity used in the region traveled via El Camino Real. \u00a0History does not give enough credit to New Mexico’s Native American Pueblos\u00a0 who produced virtually all of the exports (such as woolen textiles) used to pay for incoming commodities.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Louise McDade and John Martin in the Los Olivos Dining Room<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Durango was the home state of General Francisco “Pancho” Villa, a prominent figure in the Mexican Revolution. \u00a0Villa, as you might know, led one of the last Armies to invade the United States. In 1916, Villa led an army of about 1,500 guerillas across the border to stage a brutal raid against the small American town of Columbus, New Mexico. Villa and his men killed 19 people and left the town in flames. \u00a0A fellow Revolutionary of Villa’s, Miguel Hidalgo Y Costilla, often considered the father of Mexican Independence, was executed in Durango.<\/span><\/p>\n

On the website Mex Connect<\/strong><\/a>, Karen Hursh Gruber describes Durango as “a fantasyland of rugged mountains, pine forests, rivers, lakes, waterfalls, fertile valleys and yucca-strewn desert is perhaps best known as the location for the many movies shot under its startlingly bright blue sky<\/em>.\u00a0Because Durango is a northwestern state, it’s no surprise that its culinary offerings share many commonalities with New Mexico. \u00a0Durango is the progenitor of barbacoa\u00a0a traditional dish of various meats steamed underground in a pit over coals. \u00a0 We can also thank Durango for\u00a0machaca, a dried meat dish. \u00a0 Durango is also known for its fine chorizo and the cheeses made by its Mennonite communities. \u00a0Dishes typical of Durango’s gastronomy include enchiladas, tamales, albondigas, discada, tacos, carne asada and of course, red and green chile.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Chips and Salsa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

By now, you’ve likely figured out that Los Olivos features the cuisine of Durango. \u00a0Like New Mexico, Durango is landlocked so you won’t find netfuls of mariscos. \u00a0What you will find is a delicious array of delicious and familiar foods. \u00a0When our friends John and Lynn invited us to join them for lunch at Los Olivos, we didn’t hesitate. \u00a0Los Olivos had long been on our list of “must try soon” restaurants. \u00a0Our hesitation had been on account of familiarity with the area’ of the International District in which Los Olivos is located. \u00a0Formerly known as the “Combat Zone,” the area remains a nexus for crime despite having been rechristened with such an innocuous name. \u00a0Should any miscreants attempt to accost us during our time in the International District, I figured John and our girls could hold off the ruffians while I ran for help.<\/span><\/p>\n

We were joined for lunch by \u00a0Louise<\/span>, a physician with a great table side manner. \u00a0Louise fit in well with our good-humored crowd. \u00a0As usually seems to be the case, our server had to return several times before we were ready to order (it’s hard to concentrate on a menu when John is sharing his repertoire of amusing anecdotes and hilarious jokes). \u00a0The menu lists a number of “platillos,” mostly familiar items such as enchiladas, chile rellenos, carnitas and more.\u00a0 Prices are relatively inexpensive with platillos averaging around fourteen dollars.\u00a0 Six tacos are listed next.\u00a0 Tacos include the de rigueur QuesaBirria.\u00a0 Next on the menu are five burritos including a chile rellenos burrito.\u00a0 The menu also lists four tortas and six caldos, a specialty of Durango.\u00a0 A full breakfast menu is also available.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Queso Birria Tacos<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Gentlemen that we are, John and I wiped out two servings of salsa and two baskets of chips without sharing.\u00a0 We didn’t want our brides or Louise to burn their tongues (and if you believe that…).\u00a0 The salsa<\/strong> <\/em>is among the very best in Albuquerque with a pleasant piquancy based on jalapenos.\u00a0 Its dark red hue is flecked with cilantro.\u00a0 The chips are lightly salted and crisp.\u00a0 Best of all, they’re formidable enough for Gil-sized scoops of salsa.\u00a0 John is a man after my own heart.\u00a0 Like me, he’s unfazed by piquancy and if possible, would load each chip with shovelfuls of salsa.\u00a0 The salsa is complementary, a practice not many restaurants continue in this build back better economy.<\/span><\/p>\n

In the past decade or so, perhaps no taco has ascended so highly on America’s radar than the birria taco and its cousin, the taco QuesoBirria<\/strong><\/em>.\u00a0 Yep, it’s birria (meat marinated in an adobo made of vinegar, dried chiles, garlic, and herbs and spices before being cooked in a broth) and queso–two great tastes that taste great together.\u00a0 Los Olivos version of birria is made with beef which is topped with cilantro and onions and accompanied by a consomme in which to dip the taco.\u00a0\u00a0 The consomme isn’t as aromatic as some, but it’s rich and flavorful, a perfect vehicle for excellent tacos.\u00a0 You’ll note the taco shells are reddish in color, the result of having been momentarily immersed in the consomme.\u00a0 I frequently get asked where to find the best birria tacos in Albuquerque.\u00a0 My answer remains “I haven’t found a bad one.”\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

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Torta de Barbacoa with Fries<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Because barbacoa is one of the foods for which Durango is best known, I had to try it.\u00a0 Los Olivos offers barbacoa on both tacos and tortas.\u00a0 For me, there is no better vehicle for showcasing the deliciousness of any meat than soft, delicate Mexican bolillo bread.\u00a0 It may be sacrilege, but I wholly believe a torta beats a taco any day–even a taco QuesoBirria.\u00a0 Los Olivos version of a torta de barbacoa<\/strong> <\/em>is made with cabbage, onion and cilantro.\u00a0 Cabbage is something entirely new to me so I expected a coleslaw-like cabbage drenched in mayo or salad cream.\u00a0 Instead, the cabbage was unadorned.\u00a0 While quite good, the barbacoa wasn’t quite as moist as other barbacoa I’ve had.\u00a0 Nor was it quite as generously nestled on the soft, thin bread.\u00a0 The accompanying French fries were crispy and good, but it should be illegal to serve any fries with ketchup in those confounding little plastic packages which not even Houdini can open.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

Because of a recent aversion to piquancy attributed to a new medication, my Kim tends to order he least piquant item she could find when we visit Mexican or New Mexican restaurants.\u00a0 Carne asada<\/strong>\u00a0 <\/em>always does the trick.\u00a0 By definition carne asada is grilled and sliced beef, but honestly you never know what you’re going to get when you order it.\u00a0 We’ve been served cubed beef, shredded beef and the strangest of all, hamburger meat.\u00a0 Los Olivos’ version of carne asada (pictured below) was somewhere in between shredded beef and beef ribs (including one bone-in).\u00a0 A generous platter that would delight most carnivores also includes rice and ranchero beans.\u00a0 Everything on the platter was first-rate.\u00a0 The carne asaada, in particular, was quite good, especially when dipped into the green chile served with Lynn’s plate.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Carne Asada Plate (Ranchero Beans Not Pictured)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I may have joked about the perils of a pilgrimage to the Combat Zone…er, International District, but Los Olivos is a safe respite from whatever concerns you might have.\u00a0 If everyone in the International District (and Albuquerque for that matter) was as warm and welcoming as the great folks at Los Olivos, the city would be a much better (and better fed) place.<\/span><\/p>\n

Los Olivos<\/strong>
\n7900 Zuni Road, S.E.
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\n(505) 503-7879
\nWebsite<\/strong><\/a> | Facebook Page<\/strong><\/a>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 27 January 2023
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 1
\nRATING<\/strong>: N\/R
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: \u00a0Queso Birria Tacos, Torta de Barbacoa, Carne Asada Plate, Agua Fresca De Fresas
\nREVIEW #1317<\/strong>
\n<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

For many New Mexicans, Durango, Colorado is much more familiar than Durango, Mexico. \u00a0In truth, however, Mexico’s Durango may actually have more historical significance and ties to the Land of Enchantment than its like-named resort town in Colorado. \u00a0That’s especially true for the Catholic Churches of New Mexico. Episcopal jurisdiction for the Catholic church in New Mexico was placed in 1797 under the stewardship of the Bishop of Durango. New Mexico remained part of the Diocese of Durango until 1850 when Pope Pius IX created the Vicariate Apostolic of New Mexico and appointed Father Jean Baptiste Lamy as its first Bishop. \u00a0Yes, that’s the same Father Jean Baptiste Lamy on whom Wila Cather’s Death Comes For the Archbishop is based.…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":62813,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,540,703,57,141,727],"tags":[1314,1382,1583,1210,2663,2662,768,988,949,2665,2664,857,1132,1084],"class_list":["post-62803","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-breakfast","category-dog-friendly","category-mexican","category-new-mexico","category-tacos","tag-aguas-frescas","tag-barbacoa","tag-beef","tag-breakfast","tag-combat-zone","tag-durango","tag-international-district","tag-mexican-food","tag-salsa-and-chips","tag-strawberry-agua-fresca","tag-taco-quesobirria","tag-tacos","tag-torta-de-barbacoa","tag-tortas"],"yoast_head":"\nLos Olivos - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=62803\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Los Olivos - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"For many New Mexicans, Durango, Colorado is much more familiar than Durango, Mexico. \u00a0In truth, however, Mexico’s Durango may actually have more historical significance and ties to the Land of Enchantment than its like-named resort town in Colorado. \u00a0That’s especially true for the Catholic Churches of New Mexico. Episcopal jurisdiction for the Catholic church in New Mexico was placed in 1797 under the stewardship of the Bishop of Durango. 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