{"id":64240,"date":"2023-07-28T00:01:36","date_gmt":"2023-07-28T06:01:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=64240"},"modified":"2026-04-05T20:38:44","modified_gmt":"2026-04-06T02:38:44","slug":"zacatlan-santa-fe-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=64240","title":{"rendered":"Zacatl\u00e1n – Santa Fe, New Mexico"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
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El Zacatl\u00e1n on Aztec<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As a naive and impressionable child with a vivid imagination, my most frightening weekly ordeal was walking home from Catechism, especially when teachings centered around the devil and his demons. For some reason we weren’t taught about a loving God. Instead it was drilled into us that if we’re not “good” we’d go to Hell. \u00a0Strangely such concepts as forgiveness and goodness were described rather abstractly while the devil (undoubtedly a progenitor of today’s elected officials) and sin were made real enough to traumatize us all. \u00a0The devil was everywhere waiting to ensnare us into sin and drag us (wailing and gnashing our teeth) into Hell.<\/p>\n

Walking home at twilight after another fire and brimstone lesson made me long for the safety and security of home. \u00a0It made me quite unhappy that Adam and Eve were expelled from Eden for disobeying God. \u00a0Eden is described in Genesis as “the garden of God.” \u00a0Our Catechism teachers taught us Eden was a peaceful place in which we were all intended to live contented and innocent lives. \u00a0Unfortunately, rather than focus on the beauty and serenity of Eden, we were petrified by descriptions of the serpent who tempted Eve to partake of the tree of knowledge of good and evil. \u00a0There are a lot of writhing, slithering, scary serpents (mostly garter snakes, not elected officials) in Pe\u00f1asco.<\/p>\n

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The Small Dining Room<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In my adultery I’ve often pondered what Eden must be like. \u00a0Images of lush, verdant gardens replete with all my favorite fruits come to mind. \u00a0I’ve come to the conclusion that Eden must be like Zacatl\u00e1n De Las Manzanas, a small city in the region of Puebla in central Mexico. \u00a0Even its name bespeaks of lavish greenery and ambrosial bounty. The name Zacatl\u00e1n comes from Nahuatl and mean \u201cplace of grass<\/em>\u201d (no, not New Mexico’s second favorite cash crop). \u00a0The appendage \u201cde las Manzanas<\/em>\u201d is Spanish for \u201cof the apples<\/em>,\u201d which is derived from the area’s abundance in the production of apples.<\/p>\n

Zacatl\u00e1n is renowned worldwide for its apple orchards, growing some eighteen varieties of \u00a0the pomaceous fruit, some sweet and some tart. Zacatl\u00e1n’s famous apple wine and apple cider are made from a mix of both types. \u00a0Graced by ample rainfall and a very fecund soil, the area’s agricultural bounty is indeed Eden-like. \u00a0The website Lugares Turisticos en Mexico<\/strong><\/a> (literally Mexican tourist spots) describes Zacatl\u00e1n as having a moderate climate. \u00a0According to the site, “Only during the winter does it get cold enough to bring out the jackets and scarves, the rest of the year there is a delightful sub-humid temperate climate, alternating between sunny and cloudy days, neither hot nor cold. In addition, the air feels exceptionally clean to breathe<\/em>.”<\/p>\n

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A Fireplace is the Cynosure of the Dining Room<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

If you’d like to experience just a “taste” of my version of Eden, \u00a0you can find it at Zacatl\u00e1n, a Lilliputian restaurant ensconced in a charming (albeit rutted) thoroughfare in the Santa Fe Railyard District. \u00a0Situated in a converted small house, Zacatl\u00e1n’s intimate dining room lacks the seating capacity of nearby restaurants, but where it lacks in capacity it makes up for in sheer deliciousness. A small shaded patio precedes the entrance. \u00a0 From the instance you approach the restaurant, \u00a0you’ll be enveloped in beguiling aromas wafting from the kitchen. \u00a0Those aromas are enticing precursors to the magical fusion of Southwestern and Mexican cuisines being prepared by Chef Eduardo Rodriguez.<\/p>\n

Chef Rodriguez grew up in agrarian Zacatl\u00e1n where his family reaped the bounty of their work in the fields. \u00a0The chef learned to prepare regional delicacies prepared by his mother and grandmother. \u00a0As a teenager, he had the opportunity to visit two of his older brothers who were cooking in Santa Fe restaurants. \u00a0The energy and creativity of the kitchens he visited became the onus for his decision to pursue becoming a chef. \u00a0As with so many scions of Mexico, he couldn’t afford culinary school so he literally started at the bottom when his brothers got him a job .washing dishes at Geronimo. \u00a0Chef Eric DiStefano took notice of the eager young novice, gradually promoting him to positions of increased responsibility. \u00a0Rodriguez followed the legendary chef to Geronimo where DiStefano continued to mentor the quick learner on the nuances and intricacies of fine dining. \u00a0Eventually Rodriguez assumed the reins of executive chef at Geronimo.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Arugula Salad<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In July, 2020 during the height of the Cabrona virus, Chef Rodriguez launched Zacatl\u00e1n, the culmination of his dreams, aspirations and experiences. \u00a0It proved a very welcome respite for virus weary diners. \u00a0Emerging from the event that shut down the world, the restaurant quickly garnered accolades. \u00a0In January, 2021, \u00a0 In April, 2021, USA Today<\/i> ranked Zacatlan tenth in its list of America\u2019s top 10 new restaurants.<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0 Three months later Cond\u00e9 Nast Traveler<\/i> called Zacatl\u00e1n \u201cone of the hottest tickets in town<\/em>\u201d and described its cuisine<\/strong><\/a> as “playful but sophisticated<\/em>.” \u00a0\u00a0In 2022, Zacatl\u00e1n was a semifinalist for a James Beard Foundation’s Award in the “Best New Restaurant” category.\u00a0 Two years later he became a Finalist in the “Best Chef – Southwest” category.\u00a0 Quite an achievement for someone who started off as a dishwasher.<\/p>\n

Accolades and honors aren’t as important to the humble chef as is making diners happy by preparing amazing foods from his homeland. \u00a0Mission accomplished! \u00a0Our introduction to Chef Rodriguez’s talent was in the form of brunch which is currently available from Thursday through Sunday. \u00a0Though we haven’t tried every brunch within the Land of Enchantment, we’ve experienced enough of them to declare Zacatl\u00e1n’s brunch the best in New Mexico. \u00a0It’s not an overflowing horn of plenty, but a limited and curated selection of \u00a0starters, salads, soups, Zacatl\u00e1n favorites and desserts. \u00a0There’s something for everyone.<\/p>\n

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Enchilada de Mole Negro<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Our brunch experience at Zacatl\u00e1n began with an arugula salad (poached pear, red chile pi\u00f1on garampi\u00f1ado, grapes, vinaigrette, gotes Catalanes). \u00a0You’ve likely had an arugula salad or five in your time, but probably not like this one. \u00a0 That’s not solely because of ingredients you can’t pronounce or which you may not have had. \u00a0Garampi\u00f1ado simple means “coated in sugar.” \u00a0 Gotes Catalanes are hand-rolled orbs of goat cheese mixed with fresh garlic and parsley. \u00a0 Every component goes well with the peppery arugula, especially the sweet ingredients which counterbalance the serious kick you get from arugula. \u00a0The goat cheese is magnificent especially when paired with the sweet-tart poached pear.<\/p>\n

Artistically presented in a deep-rimmed plate, the enchiladas de mole negro<\/strong><\/em> (roasted chicken, black beans, two Mexican cheeses) are edible masterpieces, as aesthetically pleasing as they are absolutely delicious. \u00a0An intensely dark and rich sauce and a generous sprinkling of creamy white cheeses blanket housemade corn tortillas which envelop moist white chicken. \u00a0There is nothing subtle about mole negro, a staple of Oaxaca which combines dark chocolate, dry heat roasted chilis, nuts, seeds, and spices. \u00a0Its sweet-spicy flavor is resultant from a significant undertaking. \u00a0It often takes two or three days of cooking for mole negro to acquire its depth of flavor and complexity. \u00a0When you’ve had a great mole negro, you’ll know it. \u00a0Chef Rodriguez’s mole negro is among the best we’ve had.<\/p>\n

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Chicken & Waffles<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Chicken and waffles have become so mainstream on brunch menus that they’re likely to inspire a ho-hum reaction. \u00a0Ordinarily that would have been the case at Zacatl\u00e1n. \u00a0Then we more closely read the menu description: Mexican churro, fresh fruit, maple syrup, cotton candy. \u00a0Cotton candy? \u00a0We couldn’t remember the last time we’d \u00a0had cotton candy and didn’t exactly remember this tooth-decaying fair favorite fondly. \u00a0For my Kim, the churro, cotton candy and even the waffles are superfluous. \u00a0It was the fried chicken she craved. \u00a0 Even the presentation of this brunch standard is unique. \u00a0Stacked atop a thick waffle like Lincoln logs were four cinnamon-sprinkled churros. \u00a0Atop the churros were two golden-hued chicken pieces, a breast and a leg. \u00a0Wispy cotton candy atop the chicken resembled a cloud.<\/p>\n

At the risk of hyperbole, these was the best chicken and waffles<\/strong><\/em> plate we’ve ever had. \u00a0It was better than at any soul food restaurant or fine dining establishment in which we’ve had the de rigueur brunch offering. \u00a0After recent experiences with hummingbird sized fried chicken, my Kim was very pleased with the poultry perfection before her. \u00a0She even ate the delightfully crispy crust which had subtly sweet notes. \u00a0 That crust sheathed some of the most moist and delicious chicken she’s had outside my mom’s kitchen. \u00a0The churros were quite good, too. \u00a0The waffles would kick sand on any other waffle we’ve had. \u00a0They’re thick and golden-brown in color, with a crispy outer texture and a soft interior. \u00a0Their grid-like surface is a perfect repository for the sweet syrup (the real stuff). \u00a0Even the cotton candy was good.<\/p>\n

Zacatl\u00e1n serves dinner Monday through Sunday from 5PM to 9PM. \u00a0You’d better make reservations because this is one restaurant going places. \u00a0It’s on the pantheon (Mount Rushmore if you prefer) of New Mexico’s best Mexican restaurants. \u00a0Absolutely outstanding!<\/p>\n

Zacatlan<\/strong>
\n317 Aztec Street
\nSanta Fe, New Mexico<\/strong>
\n(505) 780-5174
\nWebsite<\/strong><\/a> | Facebook Page<\/strong><\/a>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 28 July 2023
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 1
\nRATING<\/strong>: N\/R
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$ – $$$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Arugula Salad, Chicken & Waffles, Enchilada de Mole Negro
\nREVIEW #1348<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

As a naive and impressionable child with a vivid imagination, my most frightening weekly ordeal was walking home from Catechism, especially when teachings centered around the devil and his demons. For some reason we weren’t taught about a loving God. Instead it was drilled into us that if we’re not “good” we’d go to Hell. \u00a0Strangely such concepts as forgiveness and goodness were described rather abstractly while the devil (undoubtedly a progenitor of today’s elected officials) and sin were made real enough to traumatize us all. \u00a0The devil was everywhere waiting to ensnare us into sin and drag us (wailing and gnashing our teeth) into Hell. Walking home at twilight after another fire and brimstone lesson made me long for…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":64245,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3631,3846,165,2836,57,141,5647,142,127,727],"tags":[3270,3258,3261,2180,3263,3265,3259,761,3269,3271,3267,3260,3266,3845,988,903,3264,2167,3262,3268],"class_list":["post-64240","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-james-beard-foundation-best-new-restaurant-2022","category-james-beard-foundation-best-chef-southwest-finalist-20","category-brunch","category-james-beard-award-best-chef-restaurants","category-mexican","category-new-mexico","category-rating-n-r","category-santa-fe","category-southwestern","category-tacos","tag-semifinalist-for-james-beard-award-best-new-restaurant","tag-arugula-salad","tag-aztec-street","tag-brunch","tag-chef-eduardo-rodriguez","tag-chef-eric-distefano","tag-chicken-waffles","tag-churros","tag-conde-taste-hottest-ticket-in-town","tag-cotton-candy","tag-coyote-cafe","tag-enchiladas-de-mole-negro","tag-geronimo","tag-james-beard-best-chef-southwest-finalist-2024","tag-mexican-food","tag-outdoor-patio","tag-railyard-district","tag-santa-fe","tag-southwestern-food","tag-usa-today-top-10-new-restaurants"],"yoast_head":"\nZacatl\u00e1n - Santa Fe, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=64240\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Zacatl\u00e1n - Santa Fe, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"As a naive and impressionable child with a vivid imagination, my most frightening weekly ordeal was walking home from Catechism, especially when teachings centered around the devil and his demons. 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