{"id":65147,"date":"2026-05-16T00:01:10","date_gmt":"2026-05-16T06:01:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=65147"},"modified":"2026-05-24T09:49:34","modified_gmt":"2026-05-24T15:49:34","slug":"js-var-b-q-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=65147","title":{"rendered":"J’s Var-B-Q – Albuquerque, New Mexico"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
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J’s Var-B-Q, Oklahoma Barbecue in Albuquerque<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Step into J’s Var-B-Q and the first thing you’re inevitably going to notice is the aroma of smoked meats wafting toward you. \u00a0The bouquet of sweet and succulent smoke envelops you like a warm blanket on a cold night. \u00a0 It’s a comforting smoke sure to elicit involuntary salivation. \u00a0It’s a siren’s song luring you to the counter where you place your order from a tempting menu of meats, sandwiches, sides, specialties and desserts. \u00a0 If the doors to J’s Var-B-Q were to literally stay open, the rapturous redolence of smoked meats would escape onto Montgomery and traffic would be snarled with motorists (maybe even a vegetarian or six) making their way to this bodacious barbecue restaurant.<\/p>\n

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The capacious dining room<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The second thing you’re likely to notice is a large mural on the wall depicting a grizzled gentleman with engorged pythons for arms. \u00a0He’s got his hands steepled in prayer and his eyes closed in reverence. \u00a0Undoubtedly he’s giving thanks for the bounty laid out before him: a plate of ribs and hot links with sides of mac-and-cheese and baked beans. \u00a0The prayerful man on the mural is Julian Vargas, a born-and-bred New Mexican and patriarch of the Vargas family. \u00a0If you haven’t already surmised by now, \u00a0the “J” and “Var” on the restaurant’s name represent “Julian Vargas.” \u00a0 \u00a0It’s clever wordplay.<\/p>\n

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Julian Vargas, The Man, The Myth, The Legend<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

J’s Var-B-Q opened its doors on 30 November 2023. \u00a0It’s located on the south side of Montgomery just east of Louisiana Boulevard. \u00a0Its next door neighbor is Nio Szechuan<\/a><\/strong> with the venerable Yeller Sub<\/a><\/strong> and Richie B’s<\/a><\/strong> nearby (until Spring, 2016 when it relocated to Albuquerque’s west side). \u00a0J’s Var-B-Q doesn’t subscribe to any of the four most recognized barbecue “templates” meaning it doesn’t claim to represent the barbecue styles of Central Texas, Carolina, Memphis or Kansas City. \u00a0Instead, as Julian will tell you, the restaurant smokes and serves Oklahoma style barbecue. \u00a0A well-traveled man, he’s tried barbecue at all the bastions of barbecue, but it’s the low profile barbecue served in Oklahoma that he loves most.<\/p>\n

What distinguishes Oklahoma style barbecue from that of other barbecue regions is the light smoke. \u00a0J’s smokes its meats with a white oak which is renowned for producing the best coals for longer burning. \u00a0White oak is compatible with red meat, pork, fish and heavy game meaning you can use it for virtually every type of protein. \u00a0Oklahoma style barbecue is served sans sauce though sauce is available at your table. \u00a0J’s offers a delightfully piquant, New Mexico inspired sauce that includes red chile. \u00a0A sweet sauce is also available.<\/p>\n

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Sausage and Brisket with Sides of Baked Beans and Chile Mac N’ Cheese<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Conspicuous by its absence on the menu is smoked bologna, lovingly referred to by Sooners as “Oklahoma tenderloin<\/em>.” \u00a0Smoked bologna is a state favorite and one of my very favorite of all smoked meats. \u00a0Otherwise, J’s offers all the smoked favorites: pulled pork, turkey, spare ribs, brisket, chicken, hot links and chicken tenders. \u00a0“Meals”–your meat choice with one side and a drink are a bargain. \u00a0You can purchase your smoked meats by weight, from a quarter-pound to as much as you can eat. \u00a0Or, you can enjoy a sandwich constructed on fluffy potato buns. \u00a0Sides include all the favorite ‘cue accompaniments: corn-on-the-cob, baked potato, coleslaw, baked beans, fried okra, mac n’ cheese and more. \u00a0Three desserts–brownie, ice cream and cobbler–are also available.<\/p>\n

16 May 2016<\/strong>:\u00a0 During our second visit, we discovered that J’s had expanded its menu, offering wonderfully non-traditional meals named for Julian’s grandchildren.\u00a0 You’ll find, for example, the Ella (loaded baked potato with your choice of meat), the Elijah (loaded fries covered with beans, meat and cheese and the Bubba (open-faced bun with your choice of meat, sausage and topped with baked beans and cheese).\u00a0 If these playfully imaginative creations sound like they came from the whimsical mind of a child, they appeal to children of all ages (including this 39-year-old).\u00a0 On Monday, May 18, 2026, J’s began serving breakfast burritos from 7AM to 11AM.<\/p>\n

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Quarter-Pound of Pulled Pork and Quarter-Pound of Brisket with a Baked Potato<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

7 December 2023<\/strong>:\u00a0 My inaugural meal consisted of a quarter-pound of both smoked links and brisket with sides of baked beans and green chile mac n’ cheese. \u00a0If I had my druthers, the brisket would have been sliced, but chopped up brisket is still great. \u00a0The brisket<\/em><\/strong> was tender, moist and boasted of a beautiful bark that provided a slight textural contrast. \u00a0As promised, the brisket had a light smoke (a little goes a long way). \u00a0 The smoked links<\/em><\/strong> were superb, possessing smokiness, flavor and punch. \u00a0They’e not overly piquant, but have a spicy personality. \u00a0Baked beans<\/em><\/strong>, my favorite side at barbecue restaurants, were wonderful. \u00a0Chunks of brisket stud the beans and provide a contrast to the molasses sweetness of the beans. \u00a0The green chile mac n’ cheese<\/em><\/strong> will make you sit up and take notice.<\/p>\n

7 December 2023<\/strong>:\u00a0 My Kim had a quarter-pound of pulled pork<\/strong><\/em> and a quarter pound of brisket with a baked potato. \u00a0As with the brisket, the pulled pork is terrific. \u00a0Tender tendrils of tangled pork invite the sweeter sauce. \u00a0Along with smoked turkey, pulled pork benefits most from a light smoke. \u00a0Use a more ascerbic wood (hickory or mesquite for example) and the natural sweetness of these meats are obfuscated. \u00a0Baked potatoes are served with your choice of toppings. \u00a0Sour cream and butter are enough for my Kim. \u00a0The baked potatoes are baked through and have a nice, soft \u00a0interior.<\/p>\n

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The Bubba With Corn on the Cob and Baked Beans<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

16 May 2026<\/strong>:\u00a0 In America’s South, “Bubba” is a very common, informal sobriquet\u2014especially often used as a term of endearment for a brother, son, or close male friend. Bubba is a sobriquet Julian bestowed on one of his grandsons. It’s also the specialty item that most appealed to this diner.\u00a0 As a reminder, the Bubba<\/strong><\/em> is an\u00a0 open-faced bun with your choice of meat, sausage and topped with baked beans and cheese.\u00a0 I’m not one of those finicky diners who at its most extreme suffer from brumotactillophobia (someone who has to have foods physically separated and sauces prevented from mingling).\u00a0 Throw everything in a plate (or trough) and I’ll enjoy it.\u00a0 \u00a0The Bubba (brisket was my meat choice) was terrific (anything topped by J’s baked beans would be).\u00a0 Bringing most joy to my palate was the smoky sausage which played so well with the sweet baked beans.<\/p>\n

J’s staff is friendly and accommodating. \u00a0During our visit just seven days after grand opening we were surprised at how seasoned and well trained the staff seemed to be. \u00a0We didn’t discern “wait schtick,” just superb customer orientation by a crew that wants guests to enjoy their dining experiences. \u00a0Topping that list was Julian Vargas himself whom we addressed “Mr. Vargas,” both on account of his muscular frame and out of respect for a man who knows smoked meats.<\/p>\n

On our way out of J’s Var-B-Q, we ran into a family asking if the restaurant was as good as Rudy’s, the Texas-based barbecue enterprise (and you say there’s no such thing as a stupid question). \u00a0We hope that family found, just as we did, that J’s may be brand new to Albuquerque, but its barbecue can compete with any.<\/p>\n

J’s Var B-Q<\/strong>
\n7200 Montgomery Blvd., N.E., Suite F1
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\n(505) 508-0379
\nWebsite<\/a><\/strong>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 16 May 2026
\n1st VISIT<\/strong>: 7 December 2023
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 2
\nRATING<\/strong>: Very Good<\/strong><\/span>\u2013\u00a0Good to very good food; generally solid; delivers consistent quality, strong technique, and a comfortable, enjoyable dining experience
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Quarter-Pound of Brisket, Quarter Pound of Pulled Pork, Quarter-Pound of Hot Links, Green Chile Mac-n-Cheese, Baked Beans, Fully Loaded Baked Potato, The Bubba, Corn-on-the-cob
\nREVIEW #1362<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Step into J’s Var-B-Q and the first thing you’re inevitably going to notice is the aroma of smoked meats wafting toward you. \u00a0The bouquet of sweet and succulent smoke envelops you like a warm blanket on a cold night. \u00a0 It’s a comforting smoke sure to elicit involuntary salivation. \u00a0It’s a siren’s song luring you to the counter where you place your order from a tempting menu of meats, sandwiches, sides, specialties and desserts. \u00a0 If the doors to J’s Var-B-Q were to literally stay open, the rapturous redolence of smoked meats would escape onto Montgomery and traffic would be snarled with motorists (maybe even a vegetarian or six) making their way to this bodacious barbecue restaurant. The second thing…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":81686,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,8,5701,141,5631],"tags":[1207,3486,822,733,3477,3485,3479,3481,3482,823,3484,5724,3483,3480],"class_list":["post-65147","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-barbecue","category-breakfast-burritos","category-new-mexico","category-very-good","tag-baked-beans","tag-baked-potato","tag-brisket","tag-cobbler","tag-corn-on-the-cob","tag-green-chile-mac-n-cheese","tag-julian-vargas","tag-light-smoke","tag-oklahoma-style-barbecue","tag-pulled-pork","tag-smoked-links","tag-the-bubba","tag-two-sauces","tag-white-oak"],"yoast_head":"\nJ's Var-B-Q - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=65147\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"J's Var-B-Q - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Step into J’s Var-B-Q and the first thing you’re inevitably going to notice is the aroma of smoked meats wafting toward you. \u00a0The bouquet of sweet and succulent smoke envelops you like a warm blanket on a cold night. \u00a0 It’s a comforting smoke sure to elicit involuntary salivation. \u00a0It’s a siren’s song luring you to the counter where you place your order from a tempting menu of meats, sandwiches, sides, specialties and desserts. \u00a0 If the doors to J’s Var-B-Q were to literally stay open, the rapturous redolence of smoked meats would escape onto Montgomery and traffic would be snarled with motorists (maybe even a vegetarian or six) making their way to this bodacious barbecue restaurant. 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