{"id":66565,"date":"2024-04-24T00:37:35","date_gmt":"2024-04-24T06:37:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=66565"},"modified":"2026-04-05T20:19:16","modified_gmt":"2026-04-06T02:19:16","slug":"the-compound-santa-fe-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=66565","title":{"rendered":"The Compound – Santa Fe, New Mexico"},"content":{"rendered":"
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The Compound in Santa Fe, one of the Best Restaurants in the Country<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

“It’s good…New Mexico good<\/em>.”\u00a0 As a proud New Mexican, it galls me to hear apologists demean, denigrate and otherwise concede (quite erroneously) that restaurants\u00a0 in the Land of Enchantment are good, but not as good as restaurants elsewhere.\u00a0 It’s as if New Mexico’s restaurants can’t possibly be as good because…well, we’re New Mexico and we’re just not supposed to be very good.\u00a0 Look at where we rank in so many quality of life categories.\u00a0 It’s akin to University of New Mexico (UNM) Lobo basketball fans being content to make it to the “Sweet 16,” a goal no Lobos team has ever achieved.<\/p>\n

My counterargument is why the #$%*&! can’t a restaurant in New Mexico be considered one of, if not THE most outstanding restaurant in the Fruited Plains.\u00a0 Similarly, why can’t the Lobos blow past the Sweet 16 and win an NCAA championship in basketball?\u00a0 It’s as if a Pygmalion effect (low expectations lead to poor performance) has cast a pall over the Land of Enchantment and we’ve become the “Land of the Mediocre.” Channeling Howard Beale from the Academy Award-winning movie Network<\/strong><\/a> “I’m mad as hell and I’m not going to take it any more!<\/em>”\u00a0 The next time someone tells me “It’s New Mexico good<\/em>,” I might just practice a little defenestration.<\/p>\n

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Thick Walls Precede True Fine-Dining<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Despite being adamant that New Mexico’s restaurants aren’t as good as restaurants in other states, nay-sayers have to concede that we have the best (and it’s not even close) New Mexican cuisine in the universe.\u00a0 Never mind that we our restaurants are practically the only ones in the country serving New Mexican food.\u00a0 Restaurants serving the state’s sacrosanct red and green chile are the best!\u00a0 Sure, it’s a source of pride, but why can’t that pride be extended to other foods our restaurants prepare and serve as well as restaurants at other states?<\/p>\n

Of course, my argument only has credibility if I can testify first-hand to the greatness New Mexico’s restaurants.\u00a0 I’ve extolled the culinary excellence of New Mexico’s restaurants for years, but haven’t really declared any of those restaurants to be the nation’s best (other than our New Mexican restaurants). \u00a0 In 2024,\u00a0\u00a0 the James Beard Foundation came close to doing that for me, naming The Compound a finalist in its prestigious “Outstanding Restaurant” award category.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 The Compound Restaurant has been heralded for years as one of the two or three best restaurants in the Land of Enchantment and no less than the New York Times, Gourmet magazine, The Wall Street Journal, and Wine Spectator have all declared the Compound as “Santa Fe\u2019s favorite<\/em>.”\u00a0 But is it the best in the country?\u00a0 I think so, but will leave it to you to decide as I build my case below.<\/p>\n

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Catholic Iconography on One Wall<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

First, a little about the James Beard Foundation’s “Outstanding Restaurant” award.\u00a0 James Beard awards have been likened to the Academy Awards of food.\u00a0 It’s well-established that James Beard award-winning chefs become superstars and restaurants become travel-worthy destinations.\u00a0\u00a0 A James Beard award is life-changing.\u00a0 New Mexico has fared exceptionally well in regional award categories, especially in recent years.\u00a0 In national categories such as “Outstanding Restaurant,” New Mexico has been shut out–both in nominations and in winners.\u00a0 With Albuquerque’s Burque Bakehouse<\/strong><\/a> in the running for the country’s Most Outstanding Bakery, New Mexico has two national James Beard Foundation award finalists in 2024.<\/p>\n

Since 1990 when the “Outstanding Restaurant” award was instituted, New York City restaurants have dominated the category, winning the award a whopping twelve times.\u00a0 California restaurants have won six times, Chicago restaurants four times and Philadelphia restaurants twice.\u00a0 Restaurants from New Orleans and Boston have earned the award once each.\u00a0 In recent years, “Outstanding Restaurant” winners have included restaurants from less populous cities: Asheville, North Carolina (2022) and Birmingham, Alabama (2018).\u00a0 So why not Santa Fe?<\/span><\/p>\n

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Unique Display of Kitchen Implements and Ingredients<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As far back as the early 1990s, Santa Fe was already being named one of America’s best cities for restaurant dining.\u00a0 It was the era of Mark Miller’s celebrated Coyote Cafe and the advent of “Southwest cuisine,” a veritable melange of cross-cultural culinary exploration.\u00a0 A\u00a0 handful of other restaurants\u00a0 were also making significant inroads.\u00a0 Among them was Compound, which first opened its doors in 1966.\u00a0 It wasn’t quite the nationally renowned juggernaut it is today.\u00a0 That really didn’t happen until Chef-Owner Mark Kiffin left the Coyote Cafe and assumed the helm nearly a quarter-century ago (2000).\u00a0 In 2005, Chef Kiffin earned the James Beard Foundation’s award for Best Chef – Southwest.\u00a0 At that time, the Southwest region included Texas, Arizona, Nevada and Colorado, all boasting of formidable restaurants.<\/p>\n

While Chef Kiffin no longer has day-to-day operational management of The Compound’s storied kitchen, he retains ownership of the dynastic restaurant.\u00a0 In 2022, Michelin-trained\u00a0 Chef, Weston Ludeke joined the team as The Compound’s Executive Chef.\u00a0 He’s poised to lead The Compound into the future while continuing his predecessor’s\u00a0 legacy of bringing the bounty of the farmers market to the table and pairing it with the same French technique and philosophy for which The Compound is known.\u00a0 If our inaugural visit is any indication, it’s very obvious The Compound pays homage to its legendary past with an eye to the future.\u00a0 That future might well–should!!!–include being named “Outstanding Restaurant” by the James Beard Foundation.<\/p>\n

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Focaccia and Unsalted Butter<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Towering evergreens drape over The Compound.\u00a0 At the golden hour, the site inspires profound veneration.\u00a0 We found ourselves thinking “we finally made it<\/em>” after years of making excuses (mostly “it can’t be that<\/strong> good<\/em>“) not to visit.\u00a0 Our awe and reverence continued when we stepped indoors and espied the two-feet thick adobe (possibly terrones) walls throughout the converted two-story adobe home’s stately dining rooms.\u00a0 The Compound’s interior was designed and decorated by acclaimed designer Alexander Girard (who donated more than 100,000 pieces from his collection to Santa Fe’s Museum of International Folk Art<\/strong><\/a>.)\u00a0 Girard also designed The Compound’s inimitable logo, dinnerware, napkins and other decorative facets that make The Compound unique.<\/p>\n

My Kim’s favorite part of the restaurant was a paneled (almost mosaic) textile ceiling, another Girard touch. Those textiles are completely original to 1966, the year the restaurant was built. Over the years, those textiles may have lost some sheen and vibrancy, but they’re still eye-catching in their soft pastel hued glory.\u00a0 Folk art pieces, one depicting colorful Catholic icon0graphy, hang on unique shadow boxes on two walls.\u00a0 Recessed in a niche, in Girard’s unique typography, is a\u00a0 mitre-shaped tablet declaring: “For the spirits of men, the more they eat have happier hands and lighter feet<\/em>.”\u00a0 Our hostess would probably have preferred for us to proceed to our table with more haste, but there is so much to see that we didn’t want to miss any of it.<\/p>\n

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English Pea Tortellini<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Once comfortably ensconced at our table, we were in great hands with our server Pedro.\u00a0 Originally from the Dominican Republic, Pedro accommodated my intrinsic need to speak Spanish at every opportunity.\u00a0 So did our other servers.\u00a0 Each member of the service team was nattily attired in bowties, a tradition\u00a0 Kiffin has long insisted on.\u00a0 As he explained to edible<\/strong><\/a> in 2016,\u00a0 \u201cTo serve real food<\/em>,\u201d we need to wear real bowties; James Beard always wore one.”\u00a0\u00a0 <\/em>Pedro and his team were ambassadorial in their respect and reverence for The Compound and encyclopedic in their knowledge of the menu.\u00a0 Our evening would not have been complete had General Manager Rudolph not visited our table. Originally from Northern France, we shared anecdotes about our mutual days spent in Oregon, England and France.\u00a0 Rudolph is the consummate gentleman.<\/span><\/p>\n

On the night of our inaugural visit, The Compound had just recently introduced its Spring, 2024 menu.\u00a0 There were no nightly specials on the menu.\u00a0 Pedro pointed out all the new additions, describing preparation techniques and ingredients with alacrity and aplomb.\u00a0 As we contemplated the menu, we enjoyed The Compound’s signature focaccia<\/strong><\/em> with unsalted butter.\u00a0 It’s always surprised me how many variations of foccacia (a type of Italian yeast bread baked in flat sheet pans) there are.\u00a0 Every restaurant and bakery seemingly presents something unique to itself.\u00a0 The Compound’s version is soft and fluffy with airy bubbles.\u00a0 It’s an outstanding bread, especially if you’ve got something to sop up with it.<\/p>\n

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Black Angus Beef Tenderloin<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Something like maybe the English pea tortellini<\/strong><\/em>, a Spring, 2024 addition.\u00a0 A luscious lobster bisque encircles a butter-poached Maine lobster, English peas and Sunrise Hill Farms pea tendrils (the curling, clinging parts that the pea plant uses to hold onto supports).\u00a0\u00a0 Much as I might like to use\u00a0 the Elaine Benes yada-yada<\/strong><\/a> quote about lobster bisque, this bisque is too sublime to joke about.\u00a0 It’s quite simply spectacular, its only fault being we wanted more, more, more.\u00a0\u00a0 The bisque’s delicate flavors were a perfect vehicle for the sweet, succulent lobster and the rich cheese-filled tortellini.\u00a0 English peas are one of my favorite vegetables.\u00a0 These were especially sweet and delicate.\u00a0 This spectacular starter was akin to beginning a multi-superstar concert with\u00a0 “The King” George Strait.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span>I don’t remember exactly when it happened, but several years ago I wearied of steak.\u00a0 Any steak at any restaurant.\u00a0 Because steak is one of my Kim’s favorite meals, I “choke it down<\/em>” (don’t tell her that) when she prepares it.\u00a0 It was no surprise that she would order The Compound’s Grilled Natural Reserve Black Angus Beef Tenderloin<\/strong><\/em> served with grilled broccolini, red onion marmalade, fried scallion sauce verte and beurre rouge.\u00a0 While ordinarily the accompaniment (particularly the two sauces) would have been my favorite part of a steak dinner, the beef tenderloin was so good I’m starting to remember what I once loved about steak.\u00a0 Tender, you bet.\u00a0 Tenderloin (or “eye fillet,” as it’s known in other parts of the world) is the best part of a filet.\u00a0 Tenderloin is a fine-grained, lean piece of meat with very little connective tissue or fat. Prepared correctly (roasting) it’s an absolutely amazing steak.\u00a0 The Compound’s premium Black Angus beef tenderloin is prepared perfectly.\u00a0 At a degree of doneness of medium rare and seared to a golden tan, its velvety texture and pure deliciousness would make the most stoic among us swoon with appreciation at every bite.<\/p>\n

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Roasted Rack of Lamb<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In 2007, a panel of esteemed culinary luminaries in New York City cited a $44 lamb chop as an example of just how overpriced everything was..and that was before the “Build Back Better” economy.\u00a0 I momentarily pondered that notion when studying The Compound menu and contemplating\u00a0 its $59 roasted lack of lamb.\u00a0 With eighteen years having elapsed since the New York panel decried the pricey lamb chops, I figured a $15 price increase wasn’t too bad, especially considering the quality of The Compound’s food.<\/p>\n

New to the Spring, 2024 menu is the roasted rack of lamb<\/strong><\/em> (fregola sarda, asparagus, fava beans, spring onion, cherry conserva, lamb sauce).\u00a0 Like me, you might not know what fregola sarda (a beautiful, tasty Sardinian pasta resembling tapioca balls) and cherry conserva (a type of jam made with pitted cherries) are, but with every bite and nibble, you’ll learn and you’ll appreciate.\u00a0 These ingredients will teach you how\u00a0 an already wonderful roasted rack of lamb–maybe the very best I’ve had–can be improved.\u00a0 Three surprisingly thick and luscious chops, artfully arranged in a pyramid shape flanked by and draped over by asparagus were cooked to perfection–just ever so slightly charred and pink and tender on the inside.\u00a0\u00a0 Every single morsel is a a mouth-watering, taste explosion adventure in delight.<\/p>\n

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Wild Mushrooms<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Side dishes include crispy onion rings, minted English peas, Steak fries, potatoes au gratin and wild mushrooms with a herbed buerre blanc sauce.\u00a0 Because both my Kim and I were having meat entrees and we both cherish umami experiences, the wild mushrooms<\/strong><\/em> made most sense.\u00a0 The beurre blanc (a warm emulsified butter sauce<\/span>) formed a luscious lagoon around a generous mound of woodsy, earthy, beautiful mushrooms.\u00a0 As expected, the wild mushrooms were a wonderful complement to our meat dishes.<\/p>\n

Five desserts make up The Compound’s dessert menu<\/strong><\/a>, but you can also have one, two or ten scoops of the restaurant’s daily selection of ice creams and sorbets.\u00a0 The Compounds signature dessert is the Classic Opera Cake<\/strong><\/em> featuring dark chocolate, chocolate mousse and pistachio cream. A chocolate shell envelops the frothy mousse with crushed pistachios lining the bowl.\u00a0 This is an “adult” chocolate dish.\u00a0 It’s not especially sweet and will appeal mostly to those of us who don’t like cloying desserts.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

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Compound Opera Cake<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

So, is The Compound THE MOST OUTSTANDING RESTAURANT in the country?\u00a0 If very well may be. \u00a0 I think it is, but an esteemed\u00a0 panel of James Beard Foundation judges will tell us for sure in June, 2024.<\/p>\n

The Compound<\/strong>
\n653 Canyon Road
\nSanta Fe, New Mexico<\/strong>
\n(505) 982-4353
\nWebsite<\/strong><\/a> | Facebook Page<\/strong><\/a>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 24 April 2024
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 1
\nRATING<\/strong>: N\/R
\nCOST<\/strong>: $250
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: English Pea Tortellini, Black Angus Beef Tenderloin, Roasted Rack of Lamb, Wild Mushrooms, Compound Opera Cake, Foccacia
\nREVIEW 1392<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

“It’s good…New Mexico good.”\u00a0 As a proud New Mexican, it galls me to hear apologists demean, denigrate and otherwise concede (quite erroneously) that restaurants\u00a0 in the Land of Enchantment are good, but not as good as restaurants elsewhere.\u00a0 It’s as if New Mexico’s restaurants can’t possibly be as good because…well, we’re New Mexico and we’re just not supposed to be very good.\u00a0 Look at where we rank in so many quality of life categories.\u00a0 It’s akin to University of New Mexico (UNM) Lobo basketball fans being content to make it to the “Sweet 16,” a goal no Lobos team has ever achieved. 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Please take a few minutes to tell me what you think. 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