{"id":67101,"date":"2025-04-23T00:01:35","date_gmt":"2025-04-23T06:01:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=67101"},"modified":"2026-04-03T12:35:10","modified_gmt":"2026-04-03T18:35:10","slug":"rio-tacos-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=67101","title":{"rendered":"Rio Tacos – Albuquerque, New Mexico"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Rio Tacos Mexican Mesquite Grill<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In May, Mexico City\u2019s Tacos El Califa de Le\u00f3n, in the downtrodden San Rafael neighborhood became the first Mexican taco stand to win a Michelin star. \u00a0One of the things that makes its selection remarkable is that the taqueria is the antithesis of most Michelin starred restaurants. \u00a0It’s not elegant and its tables aren’t set with immaculately pressed white linens. \u00a0There are no sterling place-settings or fine china. \u00a0 Instead, the taqueria has no tables or seats. \u00a0It’s standing room only with space for only a handful of guests and a metal counter on which they can balance their plates.<\/p>\n

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Comfy, Cozy Dining Room and Kitchen<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Fittingly, the taqueria is all about tacos. \u00a0There’s nothing else on the menu, only four options: bistec (seared steak), chuleta (thinly sliced pork chop), costilla (fork-tender beef) and the taqueria’s signature creation, the gaonera (whole steak). \u00a0These four proteins are sliced thinly, prepared with lard on a plancha (grill) and seasoned with coarse salt and a squeeze of lime. \u00a0While the chef is preparing each taco, handmade corn tortillas are being made alongside the grill. \u00a0It’s all prepared to order. \u00a0Tacos are served with your choice of two salsas.<\/p>\n

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Chilaquiles<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Michelin stars are a badge of honor, an honor coveted by chefs around the world. \u00a0As you may have surmised, Michelin is named for Michelin Tire founders Andre and Edouard Michelin who compiled the first Michelin Guide in 1900 with the aim of creating a demand for automobiles\u2014and therefore, a need for more Michelin tires. \u00a0Stars were first awarded in 1926. \u00a0Earning a Michelin star–whether one star or three–is a huge honor and a rare accomplishment. The Michelin Guide now covers 37 countries across Europe, Asia, North America, and South America. Michelin reviews restaurants in select U.S. cities and states, including Chicago, New York City, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Denver, Texas (Austin, San Antonio, Houston) and San Francisco.<\/p>\n

Michelin stars are determined by anonymous reviewers, known as “inspectors.” \u00a0Inspectors are required to visit a potential Michelin caliber restaurant several times during different seasons and at different times. \u00a0They eat both lunch and dinner and visit both on weekends and during the week. \u00a0A one-star rating means a restaurant is considered \u201cvery good in its category\u201d having a quality menu and prepares cuisine to a consistently high standard<\/em>.” \u00a0That definition for a one-star Michelin rating may sound rather prosaic and might lead you to think any restaurant can earn a star. \u00a0Such is not the case. \u00a0The number and caliber of restaurants earning even one star is exclusive.<\/p>\n

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Chicken Adobada and Carne Asada Tacos<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Upon hearing of a humble Mexico City taqueria earning one Michelin star, naturally I wondered if we’ve ever had tacos good enough to even be considered for a star in New Mexico. \u00a0That’s a very hard question to answer. \u00a0For one thing, Michelin doesn’t have a presence in New Mexico. \u00a0For another, most of the taquerias in New Mexico offer street food variety tacos–even those taquerias with brick-and-mortar stores. \u00a0I recently had a discussion with my friend Lynn Garner about the quality of tacos in Albuquerque. \u00a0Most, we agreed, are made with “less than premium” proteins. \u00a0You’ll find tacos with fatty, sinewy bits just about everywhere. \u00a0That doesn’t make them bad tacos. \u00a0They’re still delicious and still make us very happy.<\/p>\n

Many of the tacos we’ve encountered in the Duke City are replete with ingredients seemingly in place to mask the “less than premium” proteins. \u00a0(Frankly the reason French chefs created so many transformative sauces was to mask the flavor of proteins well past their expiration date). \u00a0 At least, Lynn and I agreed, they’re not the hard-shelled, ground beef, lettuce and tomato tacos popularized by Taco Bell. \u00a0Though Lynn grew up with that style of taco, I didn’t encounter Taco Bell until 1977 in Biloxi, Mississippi. \u00a0I wasn’t sheltered. \u00a0My mom made excellent tacos with a chile piquin salsa that will make your socks roll up and down.<\/p>\n

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Two Tacos Al Pastor<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When my Corrales compadre, the extraordinary photographer Bruce Terzes<\/a><\/strong> told me about Rio Tacos I was rather skeptical even though \u00a0Bruce has never let me down. \u00a0His recommendations tend to be on point. \u00a0Still, I was half expecting “the usual” Duke City taco. \u00a0When Bruce first told me of Rio Tacos, owner-chef Fernando Rios was plying his craft out of a food truck. \u00a0Like a devoted groupie, Bruce followed Rio Tacos wherever it went–to parks and breweries throughout Rio Rancho, Corrales and the West Side area. \u00a0He was beyond excited when in April, 2024, Rio Tacos launched a brick-and-mortar shop on Alameda (just west of the wonderful Oak Tree Cafe)<\/a><\/strong>.<\/p>\n

Rio Tacos is family-owned-and-operated (true to the taquerias name, by the Rios family). \u00a0You’ll interface with Fernando’s family–wife, children, sister-in-law–during the course of your meal. \u00a0You won’t find a more genial family running a restaurant. \u00a0They’re polite, kind and very proud of the family restaurant which Fernando hopes to continue growing. \u00a0Fernando is like a proud ambassador for Rio Tacos. \u00a0Everything he recommended was wonderful–even items I would otherwise not have ordered.\u00a0 Everything is made on the premises, he explains.\u00a0 There are no mixes and everything is fresh.\u00a0 As if to underscore the point, he steered us toward the gleaming tray in which fire-roasted tomatoes and onions awaited their transformation into salsas.\u00a0 Rio Tacos showcases three salsas.\u00a0 The least piquant is a creamy guacamole salsa.\u00a0 The most incendiary is made with fire-roasted tomatoes, onions and jalape\u00f1os.\u00a0 The fire-roasted tomatoes lend a smoky quality you’ll appreciate.\u00a0 Chile de arbol is the provider of piquancy on the third salsa.<\/p>\n

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Stuffed Baked Potato<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Befitting its rather small space, Rio Tacos has a limited menu. \u00a0Protein options are familiar–carne asada, al pastor, barbacoa–as well as unique: chicken adobada and potato soyrizo (a pre-cooked, soy-based plant-based meat alternative that is surprisingly spicy and flavorful). \u00a0The menu includes a la carte tacos as well as a three taco plate (beer-battered shrimp, beer battered fish and tacobirria). \u00a0Also on the menu are burritos, chilaquiles, torta, mulitas, quesadillas, tortas and a stuffed baked potato.\u00a0 Vegan options are also available.\u00a0 \u00a0Three desserts (made on the premises) are available as are horchata and jamaica, aguas frescas taking America by storm.\u00a0 In 2024, Rio Tacos added breakfast items to an already formidable menu.\u00a0 Rio Tacos is open every day but Sunday.<\/p>\n

8 June 2024<\/strong>: As we perused the menu, Fernando made an audacious statement in declaring the chilaquiles the best we’ll ever have. They’re not New Mexican chilaquiles<\/em>,” he explained, “they’re Mexican and you’ll love them.” \u00a0<\/em>Usually only politicians make such bold proclamations and they usually wind up being fabrications. \u00a0Not so at Rio Tacos. \u00a0The chilaquiles<\/em><\/strong> were outstanding without being overly complex. \u00a0They were constructed with a paper bowlful of creamy salsa chips topped with cilantro, pickled onions, shredded pork (or another protein of your choice) and cotija cheese topped with a mild avocado salsa.<\/p>\n

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“Crusted”<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8 June 2024<\/strong>: I have always considered carne asada boring…so much so that I feel sorry for my Kim when she orders carne asada because other taco choices are too piquant for her. \u00a0The carne asada tacos<\/em><\/strong> at Rio Tacos blew me away! \u00a0The difference between these and other so-called carne asada tacos is that Rio Tacos actually grills them on a charcoal brasier (a large metal container in which coal or charcoal is burned). \u00a0Other restaurants may call their tacos “carne asada” which means grilled meat, but they don’t actually grill the meat. \u00a0They salt meat and throw it onto a flat top. \u00a0This is not grilling. \u00a0It’s criminal! \u00a0Rio Tacos’ carne adovada tacos are charcoal kissed, inheriting the charcoal’s smoky flavor not unlike barbecued meats sans sauces.<\/p>\n

8 June 2024<\/strong>: On a list of proteins, chicken ranks near the bottom for me unless it’s fried. \u00a0Okay, I wouldn’t kick chicken tinga tacos or some chicken wings off my table, but even with copious amounts of salsa, chicken tacos tend to bore my taste buds. \u00a0At the recommendation of Fernando, I ordered Rio Tacos’ chicken adobada taco<\/em><\/strong>, which is garnished with chopped onions and cilantro. \u00a0Adobada means marinated. \u00a0Marinade doesn’t necessarily have to be piquant to be delicious. \u00a0Rio Tacos’ family marinade isn’t, but it’s got a wonderful flavor and the chicken is also charcoal-kissed for a superb flavor. \u00a0The salsa at Rio Tacos isn’t especially piquant either, but it’ll get your attention with flavor galore.<\/p>\n

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Quesabirria with Consomme and Salsa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

8 June 2024<\/strong>: When they’re not overly piquant, my Kim’s favorite tacos are al pastor (a traditional Mexican taco made with seasoned and marinated pork). \u00a0The name al pastor<\/em><\/strong> translates to English as “shepherd style,” \u00a0 in tribute to Lebanese people who immigrated to Mexico and brought with them their famous \u00a0vertical spit-roasted cooking method. \u00a0On display at Rio Tacos is a vertical spit roast Mexicans called a “trompo” because it resembles a spinning top. Shards of pineapple, cilantro and pork are encased in a housemade corn tortilla (which Fernando hopes to make available for purchase by the dozen). \u00a0These tacos are not only beautiful to look at, but absolutely delicious. \u00a0The sweet, citrusy flavor of the pineapple contrasts with the savory, well-seasoned pork.<\/p>\n

12 June 2024<\/strong>: \u00a0Stop me if you’ve heard this before: \u00a0The best baked potatoes in the world are baked by Mexican restaurants. \u00a0Yeah, I’ve said it time and time again, but it bears repeating. \u00a0Ive pondered just why it is Mexicans baked potatoes so well. \u00a0Could it be wrapping them in aluminum foil, a process which helps them cook faster (aluminum conducts heats then traps it)? \u00a0 Aluminum foil also keeps the potatoes hotter when they’re removed from the oven and it gives them a softer, steamed skin. \u00a0Could it be that Mexican restaurants don’t rely on copious amounts of bacon bits, sour cream and a heaping helping of butter?<\/p>\n

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Torta de Carne Asada<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Could it be the ingredients with which Mexican baked potatoes are stuffed so generously? \u00a0At Rio Tacos, a football-sized stuffed baked potato<\/em><\/strong> is stuffed with butter, cheese, cilantro, onion, salsa and your choice of protein. \u00a0When constructed with all these toppings, the baked potato is more than meal-sized. \u00a0It’s humongous. \u00a0Rio Tacos doesn’t top your potato with the usual shredded Cheddar. \u00a0They use Monterey Jack, a sweet and mild cheese that melts well. \u00a0On your baked potato and other menu items, the cheese is melted into a “frico<\/em>” (crispy melted cheese) skirt that’s fun to eat. \u00a0It’s Fernando’s favorite cheese. \u00a0Barbacoa is an outstanding protein on the potato, lending its sweet and rich meatiness to every bite.<\/p>\n

12 June 2024<\/strong>: \u00a0More than any restaurant we’ve visited, Rio Tacos showcases crispy cheese skirts as a platform for other ingredients. \u00a0One example is an entree called “Crusted Quesadillas<\/strong><\/em>.” \u00a0Crusted Quesadillas–that’s not the entirety of its name.\u00a0 There are five crusted quesadillas, made with the aforementioned proteins.\u00a0 \u00a0The Crusted is akin to an open-faced taco. \u00a0At the very bottom (the canvas upon which the open-faced taco is made) is one of Rio Tacos’ housemade tortillas covered in a crispy cheese skirt. \u00a0On top of that are onions, cilantro, avocado salsa and a lime. \u00a0Texturally, that crispy cheese skirt is an absolute delight though you probably have to be a turophile (connoisseur of cheese) to like it as much as I did. \u00a0Obviously the crispiness prevents you from folding the “Crusted” like a taco. \u00a0Instead you’ll eat it like a slice of pizza. \u00a0You’ll love eating it.<\/p>\n

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Elote<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

12 June 2024<\/strong>: \u00a0Bruce Terzes, my Corrales connection, sure knows how to torture me. \u00a0Instead of sending me a photo depicting quesabirria tacos in all their glory, he sent me a photo of an empty plate after he had devoured three quesabirria tacos<\/em><\/strong> at Rio Tacos. \u00a0If his intention was to motivate me to finish my long overdue review of his favorite taqueria, he was successful. \u00a0If \u00a0you’ve already had nearly every single quesabirria plate in the Albuquerque, you owe it to yourself to try Rio Tacos version. \u00a0One of the things that makes it distinctive is just how prominent the cheese “skirt” is. \u00a0That cheese is caramelized to the point where it extends far beyond the corn tortilla. \u00a0If you love crispy cheese, you’ll love the cheese skirt. \u00a0Once you get past that skirt, it’s all moist beefiness. \u00a0The accompanying consomme is aromatic and delicious, a wonderful dipping sauce for a superb quesabirria taco.<\/p>\n

23 April 2025<\/strong>:\u00a0 Since its launch as a brick-and-mortar operation in 2024, Rio Tacos has expanded its menu to showcase even more Mexican cuisine deliciousness.\u00a0 Among the very welcome additions are tortas, the ubiquitous Mexican sandwich I prefer to tacos and burritos.\u00a0 Tortas are available with your choice of proteins (carne asada, al pastor, chicken, potato soyrizo and barbacoa).\u00a0 Though my favorite tortas are usually constructed with barbacoa, Rio Tacos’ carne asada is so good I changed things up…to glorious results.\u00a0 The torta de carne asada<\/strong><\/em> (Mexican sandwich filed with choice of meat, crusted cheese and topped with mexican mayo, sliced tomato, pickled jalapeno onions, cilantro and onions) is a superb sandwich, one sure to sate your appetite while enveloping you in joy.\u00a0 It’s one of the very best tortas I’ve had.<\/p>\n

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Horchata and Pastel Tres Leches<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

23 April 2025:\u00a0 <\/strong>Esquites is a term for Mexican street corn served off the cob and in a cup, whereas elotes is Mexican street corn served on the cob.\u00a0 In most Mexican restaurants throughout the Duke City, “elotes” seems to be a catch-all for all dishes in which Mexican street corn is served.\u00a0 So, as a 1960s cigarette commercial would ask “What do you want?\u00a0 Good grammar or good taste<\/em>?”\u00a0 Most of us would opt for good taste.\u00a0 Rio Tacos’ elotes,\u00a0<\/strong><\/em>flawless golden nuggets sprinkled with queso cotija and paired with plenty of personality from the lime and chile, are superb.<\/p>\n

8 June 2024<\/strong>: Three desserts adorn the menu. \u00a0For my Kim, there’s no need to look further than pastel tres leches<\/em><\/strong>, the fabulous cake made with evaporated milk, heavy whipping cream, and sweetened condensed milk. \u00a0Ideally, those milks should leak out with every press of your fork, rendering the cake extremely moist and tender. \u00a0Though Rio Tacos serves its desserts on plastic “bowls,” the tres leches cake is as good as you’ll find anywhere. \u00a0You can have the usual fountain drinks and even Jaritos beverages with your meal, but a better option is one of the two aguas frescas. \u00a0Horchata<\/em><\/strong>, the rich and creamy rice-based beverage that’s especially refreshing when summer’s wrath is raging.<\/p>\n

I don’t know if Rio Tacos would be competitive in the Michelin world, but I do know that it serves some of the most extraordinary tacos you’ll find in New Mexico. \u00a0Fernando is understandably very proud of the humble Mexican City taqueria’s recognition. \u00a0For now what he wants most is to make his guests happy. \u00a0Recognition will come as a result.<\/p>\n

Rio Tacos<\/strong>
\n4545 Alameda Blvd., N.E.
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\n(818) 471-7959
\nWebsite<\/a><\/strong> | Facebook Page<\/a><\/strong>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 23 April 2025
\n1st VISIT<\/strong>: 8 June 2024
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 3
\nRATING<\/strong>: Excellent<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 High quality dining experience; very good to excellent food, attentive service, and a well-maintained atmosphere; worth a detour.
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: \u00a0Chilaquiles, Al Pastor Taco, Carne Asada Taco, Chicken Adobada Taco, Horchata, Pastel Tres Leches, Quesabirria Tacos, Stuffed Baked Potatoes, “Crusted”, Torta Al Pastor, Elote
\nREVIEW #1402<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In May, Mexico City\u2019s Tacos El Califa de Le\u00f3n, in the downtrodden San Rafael neighborhood became the first Mexican taco stand to win a Michelin star. \u00a0One of the things that makes its selection remarkable is that the taqueria is the antithesis of most Michelin starred restaurants. \u00a0It’s not elegant and its tables aren’t set with immaculately pressed white linens. \u00a0There are no sterling place-settings or fine china. \u00a0 Instead, the taqueria has no tables or seats. \u00a0It’s standing room only with space for only a handful of guests and a metal counter on which they can balance their plates. 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