{"id":67220,"date":"2024-06-20T00:01:45","date_gmt":"2024-06-20T06:01:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=67220"},"modified":"2026-04-06T12:06:44","modified_gmt":"2026-04-06T18:06:44","slug":"hells-backbone-grill-boulder-utah","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=67220","title":{"rendered":"Hell’s Backbone Grill – Boulder, Utah"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
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Hell’s Backbone Grill in Boulder, Utah<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

“I’m going to hell!
\nThe worst place in the world! <\/em>
\nWith devils and those caves and the ragged clothing! <\/em>
\nAnd the heat! My God, the HEAT!\u201d<\/em>
\n~Elaine Benes<\/a> (Seinfeld: Season 9, Episode 16)<\/strong><\/p>\n

Most of us would describe Hell in similarly terrifying terms (albeit without the humor) as Elaine Benes did during a memorable episode of Seinfeld back in 1998. \u00a0The Hell that existed in Elaine’s mind \u00a0was indeed “the worst place in the world<\/em>!” \u00a0If Hell can be so nightmarish, can Hells Backbone be any better? \u00a0Are there devils wearing ragged clothing and living in caves in Hells Backbone? \u00a0Not in the Hells Background we visited in June, 2024.<\/p>\n

\"\"
The Wonderful Patio Welcomes Good Dogs<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Hells Backbone in Southwestern Utah is a spectacularly rugged area bridging the towering Boulder Mountain on the north and the breathtaking canyons to the south cut by the Escalante River over millions of years. \u00a0The Hells Backbone Road meanders through and past ridges and unearthly mountain contours that stagger the imagination. It winds from juniper and sage desert high up into the lush pine and aspen forest on Boulder Mountain and the highest plateau in North America. \u00a0The Hells Backbone Road is one of the most scenic–albeit trecherous during stormy weather–backways in Utah. \u00a0Precipitous drops to both left and right make attentive driving a must lest you risk experiencing a premature and permanent visit to Hell.<\/p>\n

Hell’s Backbone is also the name of an acclaimed restaurant and no-harm organic farm which grows vegetables, fruits, herbs, flowers, and greens for the restaurant, as well as Boulder-raised, grass-fed local lamb and beef. Almost every scrap of discarded food goes back to the earth: either composted or fed to the farms chickens who produce beautiful farm eggs. Pests and weeds are managed using earth-friendly means. Natural nutrients and products such as leaves, manure, and composted food are built into the soil to fertilize plants without the use of chemicals, and artificial products such as petroleum-based fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides are strictly avoided.<\/p>\n

\"\"
An Irrigation Ditch Flows Through the Hell’s Backbone Property<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Owned and operated by chef-owners Jen Castle and Blake Spalding, the restaurant itself is unassuming, a rustic outpost that fits harmoniously in its agrarian surroundings. According to the restaurant’s website, \u00a0“farm operation is supported by a skilled team of farmers and cooks who capture each morsel of food, either serving it fresh or preserving it, freezing it, or drying it for use in a lucky diner\u2019s future meal. The owners stick close to Buddhist principles of sustainability, environmental ethics, social responsibility, and community involvement<\/em>.”<\/p>\n

The restaurant has become a destination for anyone driving Scenic Highway 12 or visiting Bryce Canyon or Capitol Reef National Parks. \u00a0It’s not easy to get there, but whether you take the Southern route past Escalante<\/a><\/strong> and The Grand Staircase or a Northern route from as far away as Monument Valley as we did, take your time. \u00a0There is too much to see on either route to make it a day trip or to rush to get there. \u00a0For the duration of our drive, my Kim frequently kept asking “Why isn’t Utah the Land of Enchantment<\/em>?” qualifying that its spectacular vistas, towering mountains and landscapes seemingly painted by God’s own brushes are even more beautiful than New Mexico’s own. \u00a0Though I pride myself on my “New Mexiconess,” I couldn’t argue.<\/p>\n

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Blake Spalding, Chef-Owner Along with Jen Castle (Not Pictured)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Despite its location in one of the most isolated towns in the contiguous United States, Hell\u2019s Backbone Grill is one of the most honored restaurants in Utah–though shamefully it has not been awarded a “best restaurant” or “best chef” award from the James Beard Foundation (JBF). \u00a0It did make it to the “best restaurant” semifinals in both 2022 and 2023, a significant accomplishment in its own right. \u00a0Owners Blake and Jess were also finalists for the JBF “Best Chef” award for the Rocky Mountain region in 2020. \u00a0In 2017, 2018 and 2019, they were semifinalists for the Best Chef-Southwest honors. \u00a0To Blake it matters more that they continue to make the restaurant’s guests happy. \u00a0The national press–everyone from Oprah <\/em>to the New York Times <\/em>to Bon Appetit <\/em>and the Wall Street Journal–<\/em>has visited and come away more than impressed. \u00a0Now if only the James Beard Foundation judges could see just how deserving a women-chef owned restaurant which pioneered farm-to-table cooking is.<\/p>\n

Though I’m not prone to name-dropping, when we met Blake Spalding, I had to share that we have a mutual friend in Cheryl Alters Jamison<\/a><\/strong>, herself a four-time James Beard award winning author. \u00a0I, in fact, first learned about Hell’s Backbone in an article Cheryl penned about Southwestern food for Eater<\/a><\/strong>. \u00a0She wrote “Blake Spalding and Jen Castle, the two-woman team behind Hell\u2019s Backbone Grill & Farm in the wilds of southern Utah, were among the early wave of American chef-restaurateurs to start their own farm, showcasing the produce alongside local trout and grass-fed beef in dishes like a deep red-chile posole<\/em>. \u00a0Blake was thrilled to hear of our acquaintance with Cheryl.<\/p>\n

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Blue Ribbon Black Powder Biscuits<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In a review of This Immeasurable Place<\/a><\/strong>, a wonderful cookbook written by Lavinia Spalding<\/a><\/strong> and the amazing chef-owners of Hell\u2019s Backbone Grill, Cheryl added: “The authors lay out the seasons of the restaurant with humor, gentleness, and joy, but underpin it with their steely, unflinching resolve. Buy this as a cookbook and a keepsake of the truly immeasurable spirit of this community and the land.\u201d \u00a0<\/em> Is it any wonder my Kim and I had to visit Hell’s Backbone, a remarkable gem which belies the infernal connotations of its name? \u00a0Is it any wonder we hoped to meet Blake?<\/p>\n

Hell’s Backbone has charm to spare–as does Blake, a peripatetic presence in both the interior and exterior dining rooms. \u00a0She flits around with grace and elegance, meeting new guests and welcoming those who have made Hell’s Backbone a frequent stop. \u00a0She urges one and all to fill up their water bottles with fresh, cold well water from a large sink on the walkway. \u00a0“It’s our gift to our guests<\/em>,” she told me. Nearby, a babbling irrigation system meanders lazily through the property. \u00a0Canned and baked goods, tee-shirts and other keepsakes are for sale at a small concession stand.<\/p>\n

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Goat Pot Pie with Salad<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Hell’s Backbone should win a James Beard award on its service alone. \u00a0The service staff is ambassadorial in its knowledge of the menu and of the local area. \u00a0Our server Tyler was spot-on in his recommendations and on-the-spot with refills. \u00a0His familiarity with the local area–its features, history and points of interest–gave me the material needed to introduce this review. \u00a0He also told us the Boulder area is one of the most biodiverse spots in Utah, providing an important aquatic and riparian habitat for a wealth of wildlife. \u00a0He raved about the night sky’s stellar stargazing opportunities.<\/p>\n

Weather-permitting, the best seats in the house are on the spacious patio. \u00a0It’s dog-friendly in that you’re allowed to leash your four-legged child on the railing adjacent to your seat. \u00a0If you’ve traveled for hours to get to the restaurant, the patio offers much-needed respite from the rigors of driving. \u00a0One commonality among diners is the sense of tranquility and peace the restaurant seems to inspire. \u00a0That is, save for a few recalcitrant children…just being themselves.<\/p>\n

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Champagne Grape Chicken<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The menu is as spectacular as its backdrop. Hell’s Backbone serves “fanciful Four Corners cuisine: a blend of Western Range and Southwestern flavors, running through the kaleidoscope of the ever-changing offerings from our farm<\/em>.” \u00a0Fittingly Hell’s Backbone doesn’t shy away from devilishly piquant menu items, including several with red or green chile. \u00a0Blake told us Jen has roots in New Mexico. \u00a0That’s apparent in such dishes as the “Jenchiladas” (vegetarian calabasitas or organic chicken and cilantro in a spicy habanero corn cream sauce with cilantro-pepita green rice).<\/p>\n

There are essentially three sections to the menu: Small Plates & Salads, Main Courses, and Desserts. \u00a0Rather than risk filling up on two or three starters, we had just one–the blue ribbon black powder biscuits<\/em><\/strong> with a magical apriocot jam made on the premises. \u00a0The biscuits are thick and dense. \u00a0Tyler shared that they’re made with heavy cream, cold butter, black pepper and Redmond Real salt though he couldn’t give us the exact proportions of each. \u00a0Fortunately, the recipe for those beauteous biscuits is available online<\/a><\/strong>.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Apricot White Chocolate Bread Pudding<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

One of the main course specials for the evening was goat pot pie<\/em><\/strong>, a dish I’d never previously had. \u00a0Over the years I’ve wearied of chicken pot pie (even when it’s made with green chile) primarily because the crust is too thick and rather insipid. \u00a0The very first thing to notice about the goat pot pie is how light and buttery the crust is. \u00a0It’s wholly unlike any other pot pie crust we’ve had. \u00a0It’s advisable to let the dish cool down a little before digging in. \u00a0Tyler recommended piercing the crust and letting the steam waft. \u00a0It’s worth the wait. \u00a0This is the best pot pie I’ve ever had. \u00a0A rich and creamy filling replete with vegetables and generous bite-sized chunks of goat proved equal to the magnificent crust.<\/p>\n

My Kim opted for the champagne grape chicken<\/em><\/strong> (pan-seared organic chicken breast in a creamy sauce of champagne, farm grapes, brandy and lemon parsley\u2019d jasmine rice and an array of vegetables). \u00a0Even more than the goat pot pie, this dish is an exemplar of the farm’s agrarian bounty. \u00a0The vegetables (peas, zucchini, carrots, onions) are served al dente and have a delightful snap when you bite into them. \u00a0If freshness has a flavor, it’s captured beautifully on those vegetables. \u00a0The chicken breast is festooned with edible flower petals and is surrounded by farm grapes in a creamy sauce. \u00a0Each bite of the delectable dish elicited a swoon from my bride.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Chamomile Ice Cream<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Not surprisingly, desserts are equal to the rest of the menu–meaning they’re absolutely superb. \u00a0Obviously a man of discerning tastes, Tyler’s current favorite is the apricot white chocolate bread pudding<\/em><\/strong> (with farm apricots served warm with vanilla creme anglaise). \u00a0It’s now one of my favorites. \u00a0That is one of the best bread pudding dishes I’ve ever had–and I’ve had a lot of bread pudding in my days. \u00a0My Kim’s post-prandial pleasure was a homemade chamomile ice cream<\/em><\/strong>, a picture-perfect pairing of rich, creamy ice cream and whipped cream. \u00a0It’s a spectacular dessert that just might have us exploring real estate brochures to place us closer to Hell’s Backbone.<\/p>\n

Hell\u2019s Backbone Grill, like much of Boulder, closes every winter and reopens in the spring. \u00a0At 7,000 feet in altitude, the farm has a limited growing season. \u00a0Fortunately, two formidable and resilient women have figured out how to optimize crop growth and storage for a restaurant that’s one of the very best in the country.<\/p>\n

Hell’s Backbone Grill<\/strong>
\n20 North Highway 12
\nBoulder, Utah<\/strong>
\n(435) 335-7464
\nWebsite<\/a><\/strong> | Facebook Page<\/a><\/strong>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 20 June 2024
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 1
\nRATING<\/strong>: N\/R
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$$$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Goat Pot Pie, Blue Ribbon Black Powder Biscuits, Champagne Grape Chicken, Camoumille Ice Cream, April White Chocolate Bread Pudding
\nREVIEW #1404<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

“I’m going to hell! The worst place in the world! With devils and those caves and the ragged clothing! And the heat! My God, the HEAT!\u201d ~Elaine Benes (Seinfeld: Season 9, Episode 16) Most of us would describe Hell in similarly terrifying terms (albeit without the humor) as Elaine Benes did during a memorable episode of Seinfeld back in 1998. \u00a0The Hell that existed in Elaine’s mind \u00a0was indeed “the worst place in the world!” \u00a0If Hell can be so nightmarish, can Hells Backbone be any better? \u00a0Are there devils wearing ragged clothing and living in caves in Hells Backbone? \u00a0Not in the Hells Background we visited in June, 2024. Hells Backbone in Southwestern Utah is a spectacularly rugged area…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":67226,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4075,4077,21,703,3066,5647,553,1152],"tags":[4115,4102,4110,4114,4113,3904,1155,4107,4104,4111,4112,4106,4101,4109,4100,4103,4105,4108],"class_list":["post-67220","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-james-beard-foundation-best-restaurant-semifinalist-2022","category-james-beard-foundation-best-restaurant-semifinalist-2023","category-american","category-dog-friendly","category-farm-to-table","category-rating-n-r","category-across-america","category-utah","tag-apricot-white-chocolate-bread-pudding","tag-blake-spalding","tag-blue-ribbon-black-powder-biscuits","tag-chamomile-ice-cream","tag-champagne-grape-chicken","tag-cheryl-alters-jamison","tag-dog-friendly-patio","tag-eater","tag-escalante","tag-four-corners-cuisine","tag-goat-pot-pie","tag-james-beard-foundation-outstanding-restaurant-semifinalist","tag-jen-castle","tag-lavinia-spalding","tag-no-harm-organic-farm","tag-scenic-highway-12","tag-the-grand-staircase","tag-the-immeasurable-place"],"yoast_head":"\nHell's Backbone Grill - Boulder, Utah - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=67220\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Hell's Backbone Grill - Boulder, Utah - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"“I’m going to hell! The worst place in the world! With devils and those caves and the ragged clothing! And the heat! My God, the HEAT!\u201d ~Elaine Benes (Seinfeld: Season 9, Episode 16) Most of us would describe Hell in similarly terrifying terms (albeit without the humor) as Elaine Benes did during a memorable episode of Seinfeld back in 1998. \u00a0The Hell that existed in Elaine’s mind \u00a0was indeed “the worst place in the world!” \u00a0If Hell can be so nightmarish, can Hells Backbone be any better? \u00a0Are there devils wearing ragged clothing and living in caves in Hells Backbone? \u00a0Not in the Hells Background we visited in June, 2024. 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My God, the HEAT!\u201d ~Elaine Benes (Seinfeld: Season 9, Episode 16) Most of us would describe Hell in similarly terrifying terms (albeit without the humor) as Elaine Benes did during a memorable episode of Seinfeld back in 1998. \u00a0The Hell that existed in Elaine’s mind \u00a0was indeed “the worst place in the world!” \u00a0If Hell can be so nightmarish, can Hells Backbone be any better? \u00a0Are there devils wearing ragged clothing and living in caves in Hells Backbone? \u00a0Not in the Hells Background we visited in June, 2024. 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