{"id":67283,"date":"2024-06-25T00:01:44","date_gmt":"2024-06-25T06:01:44","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=67283"},"modified":"2026-04-06T11:21:24","modified_gmt":"2026-04-06T17:21:24","slug":"kwoks-bistro-reno-nevada","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=67283","title":{"rendered":"Kwok’s Bistro – Reno, Nevada"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Kwok’s Bistro in Downtown Reno<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

While some foodies chase restaurants featured on Diner’s, Drive-Ins and Dives, I’m not a Fieri Fanatic (or Guy Groupie, if you prefer). \u00a0Not every restaurant featured on his Food Network program ranks very high on my list. \u00a0I am, however, an unabashed follower of restaurants which earn James Beard Foundation (JBF) honors. \u00a0Over the years the JBF judges have selected truly worthy restaurants and chefs for accolades. \u00a0 Strict criteria and a diligent vetting process ensures awards are granted only to those exemplifying the JBF mission: \u00a0“to recognize exceptional talent and achievement in the culinary arts, hospitality, media, and broader food system, as well as a demonstrated commitment to racial and gender equity, community, sustainability, and a culture where all can thrive<\/em>.”<\/p>\n

Reno, Nevada happens to fall in JBF’s Southwest region, the same as New Mexico, Arizona and Oklahoma. \u00a0It’s a very tough region in which to compete for regional and national honors. \u00a0 Within its own state, Reno has to compete with Las Vegas, a \u00a0bastion of formidable restaurants and world-class chefs. \u00a0Other populous metropolitan areas consistently in contention for regional and national honors are Phoenix, Tucson, Oklahoma City and Tulsa…not to mention New Mexico’s own Albuquerque and Santa Fe, both of which have perennial nominees for JBF honors.<\/p>\n

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Chef Kwok Chen was a Semifinalist for the James Beard Foundation’s “Best Chef – Southwest” Award in 2022<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Take 2022 for example. \u00a02022 was a banner year for restaurants and chefs in the Land of Enchantment. \u00a0Exceptional nominees who made it to the semifinals included Zacatlan Restaurant<\/strong><\/a> in Santa Fe which was nominated for “Best New Restaurant,” a national honor. Nobutoshi \u201cNobu\u201d Mizushima and Yuko Kawashiwo of Albuquerque’s Ihatov Bread and Coffee<\/strong><\/a> were nominated for “Outstanding Baker” and made it to the semifinals. \u00a0Also in the semifinals were five…yes, five chefs…nominated for “Best Chef: Southwest”: Ahmed Obo of Santa Fe’s Jambo Cafe<\/strong><\/a>, \u00a0Fernando Olea of Santa Fe’s Sazon<\/strong><\/a>, Martin Rios of Santa Fe’s Restaurant Martin, Albuquerque’s Salazar Brothers of La Guelaguetza<\/strong><\/a> and Marie Yniguez of Bocadillos<\/strong><\/a>. \u00a0Ultimately Chef Olea earned the crown.<\/span><\/p>\n

During our brief sojourn in Reno, one of our first restaurant visits was to Kwok’s Bistro, also a semifinalist for “Best Chef: Southwest” in 2022. \u00a0For me it wasn’t a matter of seeing how Kwok’s compared with New Mexico’s quintimvirute of nominees. \u00a0I knew Kwok’s would be great. \u00a0The trusted James Beard Foundation judges deemed it great. \u00a0The biggest surprise was just how small Kwok’s \u00a0is compared to its formidable competition in 2022. \u00a0Kwok’s is ensconced in a Liliputian lair literally in the shadow of Reno’s towering hotels and casinos. \u00a0Seating for perhaps twenty means personal space proximity (though an outdoor patio does bring up capacity somewhat). \u00a0That’s not necessarily a bad thing. \u00a0Neighbors at adjacent tables redounded with praise for the little restaurant that could. \u00a0“This is the best restaurant in Reno,<\/em>” we heard more than once.<\/p>\n

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Roasted Duck with Mushu Wraps<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Belying the smallishness of its space is the rags to riches story of chef-owner Kwok Chen. \u00a0 To avoid Communist Party persecution and seek a better life, Chen’s family emigrated from China to Vietnam where he was born and raised. \u00a0At 18, he immigrated to the land of the free and home of the brave. \u00a0His humble beginnings including bussing tables at Harrah’s in Reno. \u00a0One of Harrah’s chefs took notice of Chen’s work ethic and willingness to learn. \u00a0He advised Chen to move to China for culinary training under a prominent instructor. \u00a0After two years in China, he and his family launched a restaurant serving modern Asian food and all-you-can-eat sushi. \u00a0In 2016, Chen opened Kwok’s Bistro.<\/p>\n

Despite a relatively small sample size, I have to declare Kwok’s Bistro one of the very best Chinese restaurants in which I’ve dined. \u00a0It may not win many prizes for esthetics, but for culinary fare and service it’s up there with the best. \u00a0Kwok’s specializes in Cantonese fare. \u00a0Aromas of garlic, ginger, vinegar and scallions waft from the kitchen the second you approach. \u00a0It’s as alluring as a siren’s call. \u00a0The size of the menu<\/strong><\/a> belies the diminutiveness of the dining area. \u00a0Kwok’s Bistro exemplifies the axiom “little place, huge flavors.<\/em>” (I stole that from Guy Fieri. \u00a0He uttered that truism during a visit to the much-missed Sophia’s Place<\/strong><\/a>.)<\/p>\n

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Chow Mein<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In 2022, television culinary gliteratti Andrew Zimmern visited Kwok’s Bistro for an episode of The Zimmern List, <\/strong><\/a>a show whose premise is for the star to reveal his “personal list of favorite foods, places and experiences that should be on everyone\u2019s travel itinerary<\/em>.” \u00a0At the top of Zimmern’s agenda was learning from Chef Kwok how to prepare his signature, slow-roasted duck. \u00a0That roasted duck<\/strong><\/em> appears on the menu as an appetizer served with mushu wraps or lotus buns. \u00a0A quarter portion will run you thirty dollars. \u00a0Half a duck goes for $45 and a whole duck will set you back $75. \u00a0Don’t scrimp on this appetizer. \u00a0Not since Massachusetts a few decades ago have I enjoyed roated duck prepared as well. \u00a0Thin slices of golden, boneless lacquered duck arrives at your table along with a bowl of hoisin for dipping. \u00a0Beneath its flaxen skin, the duck presents itself as tender, moist and absolutely succulent duck. \u00a0If duck was the only item Chef Kwok served, a visit to Kwok’s Bistro would still be at the top of my list for Reno restaurants.<\/p>\n

My Kim asked our delightful server to pick something for her that “isn’t hot<\/em>.” \u00a0Apparently she no longer trusts my definiton of “hot.” \u00a0(My heat (piquancy) tolerance is of the “pain is a flavor” level.) \u00a0Our server ferried over a plate of chow mein<\/strong><\/em>, a Chinese dish that translates to “stir-fried noodles.” With my penchant for bold flavors, it’s not a dish I would order, but my Kim loved the thick noodles, stir-fried chicken and minimalist sauce. \u00a0As chow mein goes, it’s very good and very basic. \u00a0Those noodles were definitely the star of this dish. \u00a0Each golden strand is an enjoyable adventure in slurping.<\/p>\n

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Szechuan Eggplant – The Best I’ve Ever Had<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Four eggplant dishes adorn the menu. Eggplant may not be a typical first choice item for many people, but increasingly it’s become something I look for. \u00a0Kwok’s Szechuan eggplant<\/strong><\/em> shows the menu isn’t solely Cantonese. \u00a0Kwok’s Szechuan eggplant (eggplant stir-fried with minced pork, garlic, scallion, green and red peppers and house special plum sauce) is one of the best Chinese dishes I’ve enjoyed in years. \u00a0It’s one of those rare dishes in which every bite tantalizes your taste buds so much you can’t wait for your next bite but you fret that you’ll finish the dish too quickly. \u00a0Honestly, this is a dish that hits all the notes, a culinary virtuoso.<\/p>\n

Kwok’s Bistro is at the very top of my list for a return trip to Reno. \u00a0It may not have won a James Beard Foundation award in 2022, but it was more than worthy of its nomination and semifinalist status.<\/p>\n

Kwok’s Bistro<\/strong>
\n275 West Street
\nReno, Nevada<\/strong>
\n(775) 507-7270
\nWebsite<\/strong><\/a> | Facebook Page<\/strong><\/a>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 25 June 2024
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 1
\nRATING<\/strong>: N\/R
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$$$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Szechuan Eggplant, Chow Mein, Roasted Duck
\nREVIEW #1407<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

While some foodies chase restaurants featured on Diner’s, Drive-Ins and Dives, I’m not a Fieri Fanatic (or Guy Groupie, if you prefer). \u00a0Not every restaurant featured on his Food Network program ranks very high on my list. \u00a0I am, however, an unabashed follower of restaurants which earn James Beard Foundation (JBF) honors. \u00a0Over the years the JBF judges have selected truly worthy restaurants and chefs for accolades. \u00a0 Strict criteria and a diligent vetting process ensures awards are granted only to those exemplifying the JBF mission: \u00a0“to recognize exceptional talent and achievement in the culinary arts, hospitality, media, and broader food system, as well as a demonstrated commitment to racial and gender equity, community, sustainability, and a culture where all…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":67290,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3628,33,2836,16,5647,553],"tags":[4147,4150,4149,4146,4122,4148,4151,4152],"class_list":["post-67283","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-james-beard-foundation-best-chef-southwest-semifinalist-2022","category-chinese","category-james-beard-award-best-chef-restaurants","category-las-vegas","category-rating-n-r","category-across-america","tag-best-restaurant-in-reno","tag-chow-mein","tag-hoisin-sauce","tag-james-beard-foundation-best-chef-southwest-semifinalist","tag-reno","tag-roasted-duck","tag-szechuan-eggplant","tag-the-zimmern-list"],"yoast_head":"\nKwok's Bistro - 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