{"id":68341,"date":"2025-01-17T00:01:30","date_gmt":"2025-01-17T06:01:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=68341"},"modified":"2026-04-03T10:37:58","modified_gmt":"2026-04-03T16:37:58","slug":"ex-novo-brewing-co-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=68341","title":{"rendered":"Ex Novo Brewing Co. – Albuquerque, New Mexico"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Ex Novo Brewing Company on 7th and Central<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After years of design and construction, Ex Novo new taproom and restaurant opened its doors in July, 2024.\u00a0 The 11,500-square-foot edifice is broken into two levels.\u00a0 On the first level, you’ll find\u00a0 the restaurant, kitchen, taproom, indoor seating and a large patio.\u00a0 A full-service bar with food service can be found upstairs in the spectacular mezzanine.\u00a0 A large outdoor patio accommodates one-hundred guests and will eventually provide live music.\u00a0 \u00a0An adjacent \u00a0cafe and deli called Sammy\u2019s Cafe & Deli<\/strong><\/a>.opened in October, 2024. Sammie’s offers an all-day breakfast menu as well as some of the most sought-after sandwiches imaginable (a pastrami reuben, banh mi, Italian, etc.)<\/p>\n

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The Expansive Patio<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Brought in to lead Ex Novo during its founding was Marc Qui\u00f1ones, one of the most heralded and talented chefs in New Mexico.\u00a0 At\u00a0 Level 5 Rooftop Restaurant<\/strong><\/a>, Chef Qui\u00f1ones conceptualized the idea of “Contemporary New Mexican Ranch Cuisine’ which celebrates New Mexico\u2019s historical reliance on the bounty of the earth and its plentiful wildlife. \u00a0Chef Qui\u00f1ones channeled the way New Mexicans preserved and prepared foods a century ago.\u00a0 He brought that concept with him to Ex Novo.\u00a0 \u00a0The chef parted ways with Ex Novo not quite a year after having led the restaurant during its inaugural phase.\u00a0 His next challenge is as Executive Chef at the renowned Michelin Guide recommended Guard and Grace Houston<\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span><\/strong> in downtown Houston, Texas.<\/p>\n

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The Dynamic First Floor Dining Room<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Ex Novo, a term which means both “from scratch<\/em>” and “something that did not exist before<\/em>”\u00a0 is an apropos term for the impressive venue that is helping make Downtown revitalization a reality.\u00a0 As a brewery, Ex Novo has had a presence in New Mexico (Corrales) for several years and even relinquished its Oregon properties to focus on the Land of Enchantment.\u00a0 Seeing how New Mexicans embraced Ex Novo’s libations, owner Joel Gregory conceived of a site which could complement brewery operations with outstanding cuisine.\u00a0 His search came to fruition in 2021 with the discovery of an old Firestone tire store (circa 1930s) on the corner of Central and Seventh.<\/p>\n

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Ex Novo Mural<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As a geritrically-advanced gentleman of 39, I found the vibe at Ex Novo unpretentious,\u00a0 fun and yes, youthful.\u00a0 We did espy a few blue-hairs, but didn’t hear anyone requesting Lawrence Welk music instead of the high-volume rock and roll. On a late Friday afternoon, the restaurant was about three-quarters full.\u00a0 \u00a0My\u00a0Corrales compadre, the extraordinary photographer\u00a0Bruce Terzes<\/a><\/strong> tells me parking is more accessible and the restaurant less boisterous during a late lunch early dinner on a Tuesday.\u00a0\u00a0We found the staff accommodating, friendly and high-energy–a reflection of the chef for whom they work.<\/p>\n

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Sammy’s Cafe Next Door For Some of Albuquerque’s Best Sandwiches and More<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u00a0THE FOOD<\/strong><\/h1>\n

If you’re tired of experiencing sticker shock every time you peruse a restaurant’s menu, you’ll be pleasantly surprised at just how affordable Ex Novo is.\u00a0 If I’ve said that before, it’s because it’s a point worth repeating.\u00a0 Diners will quickly conclude there is no compromise to the integrity of the quality and the technique behind the very accessible menu.\u00a0 As eloquently stated on Ex Novo’s website: “Diners can expect a menu that marries traditional Southwestern flavors with innovative techniques, resulting in dishes that are as visually stunning as they are delicious<\/em>.”<\/p>\n

Chef Qui\u00f1ones once described Ex Novo’s culinary fare as “for New Mexico, it\u2019s by New Mexico, and it honors ancestral New Mexican ingredients and our people<\/em>.”\u00a0 The menu offers both “small plates” and “large plates” at price points which will allow you to try a number of different items.\u00a0 You owe it to yourself to sample as much as you can.\u00a0 It’s all first-rate and served in a resplendent venue.\u00a0 You’ll find yourself impressed and probably besotted by the experience and if you meet the larger-than-life chef, you might find yourself in awe.<\/p>\n

Small Plates<\/strong><\/h2>\n
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Carne Adovada Egg Rolls<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

27 September 2024<\/strong>:\u00a0 Culinary historians claim that deep-fried egg rolls may have been invented in New York City’s Chinatown restaurants in the 1930s NOT in China.\u00a0 Sadly, egg rolls at most Chinese restaurants across the fruited plain haven’t improved much since.\u00a0 If you want a truly great egg roll, you once could visit Zinc Wine Bar & Bistro<\/strong><\/a> (closed in 2025) and ask for the duck confit egg rolls.\u00a0 They’re swoon-worthy.\u00a0 We had similarly high expectation for Ex Novo’s carne adovada egg rolls (two-hour braised pork shoulder, Tucumcari Cheddar, Hatch red chile soy) with a side of green chile lo-mein noodles.<\/p>\n

Bruce Terzes’s impression of the carne adovada egg rolls<\/strong><\/em>: “very good with one caveat – while very tasty, the filling was a bit dry and not very hot for a fried egg roll<\/em>.”\u00a0 That wasn’t our experience though my Kim did share her usual nit: “too hot”<\/em> (piquant).\u00a0 \u00a0If there’s one blessing resultant from my Kim’s aversion to piquancy, it’s that I don’t have to share foods I love but she can’t eat.\u00a0 Despite a cavalcade of plates visiting our table, I managed to finish all four egg rolls.\u00a0 Not surprisingly, the sweet-savory-piquant Hatch red chile soy ensnared the rapt attention of my taste buds.\u00a0 Dragging each egg roll through that sauce was so much better than the sticky, cloying red plum sauce served with Chinese egg rolls.<\/p>\n

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Honey-Bacon Wrapped Almond Stuffed Dates<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

17 January 2025<\/strong>:\u00a0 Dates are very sweet (emphasis on very) and have a subtle caramel-like taste. They’re healthier than white sugar and are a wonderful substitute for white sugar on\u00a0 recipes.\u00a0 Even better, dates are rich in\u00a0 nutrients, fiber, and antioxidants.\u00a0 \u00a0 Maybe best of all, dates are a fabulous complement to savory dishes.\u00a0 You’ll find dates in soups, salads and meat-based dishes.\u00a0 They pair well with cured meats and cheeses which means you’ll find them on many a charcuterie board.<\/p>\n

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Savvy diners have been known to eschew dessert and order Ex Novo’s honey-bacon wrapped almond stuffed dates<\/strong><\/em> served in a lagoon of housemade Boursin cheese dipping sauce with a Balsamic reduction ameliorated with a pimenton de la vera-based seasoning.\u00a0\u00a0 This starter is an adventure in complementary and contrasting flavor profiles and textures that work very well together.\u00a0 House-cured honey bacon with a balsamic reduction is wrapped around dates which are wrapped around marcona almonds and served with a warm French Boursin cheese dip.\u00a0 It\u2019s not every dish that combines savory and sweet flavors and still manages a subtle demarcation, but that\u2019s exactly what you get with this starter.\u00a0 This confluence of flavors, textures and vision is one of the my Kim’s favorite starters anywhere.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Large Plates<\/strong><\/h2>\n
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Sweet Fennel Sausage Orecchiette<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

27 September 2024<\/strong>: When we espied sweet fennel sausage orecchiette pasta on the menu, we didn’t immediately think contemporary New Mexico ranch cuisine.\u00a0 Orecchiette, after all is an Italian term which means “little ears” and orecchiette pasta comes from Puglia in Southern Italy.\u00a0 Remember, the operative word is “contemporary.”\u00a0 Like the rest of the world, New Mexicans have embraced Italian cuisine, the most popular cuisine in the world according to the picky eater<\/strong><\/a> blog.\u00a0 Similar to New Mexican culinary fare, Italian food is an exemplar of comfort food.\u00a0 It pleases the palate and makes you feel good.<\/p>\n

Found on the “large plates” section of the menu and served in a cast iron pan, the sweet fennel sausage orecchiette pasta<\/strong><\/em> is as good as you’ll find at great Italian restaurants, maybe better.\u00a0 It’s served with a garlic cheese bread.\u00a0 Orecchiette pasta, a pulled pasta shape that does indeed resemble an ear, offers a hollow spot perfect for absorbing sauces such as the wonderful, cheesy sauce on this dish.\u00a0 My Chicago born-and-bred bride literally expresses contempt for any sausage that isn’t redolent with fennel.\u00a0 She loved the sweet fennel sausage.\u00a0 Me, too.\u00a0 This is heart- and soul-warming comfort food at its very best.<\/p>\n

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Churrasco Steak & Potatoes<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

27 September 2024<\/strong>: One of the most popular dishes on Ex Novo’s large plates menu is the Churrasco steak and potatoes<\/strong><\/em> (outside skirt steak, twice-cooked potatoes, grilled tomato, caramelized corn, tomato coulis).\u00a0 The term churrasco actually refers to any meat grilled over an open flame.\u00a0 For the most part, that’s beef, usually a thin cut like skirt steak.\u00a0 Skirt steak is\u00a0 prized for its big, beefy flavor and affordability. It’s quite lean an has a lot of connective tissue with a thick grain that runs across the length of the muscle. While these attributes make it a tougher cut, it still emerges juicy and tender when marinated and not overcooked. \u00a0 It’s often used to make fajitas.<\/p>\n

Ex Novo’s churrasco steak is one of the most flavorful skirt steak dishes I’ve ever enjoyed.\u00a0 Every morsel was memorable, every bite a delight.\u00a0 It is tender without being soft and mushy, prepared at a slight pink with a nice bark.\u00a0 The twice-cooked potatoes were reminiscent of the potatoes I used to enjoy in France.\u00a0 They’re also somewhat comparable (though just a bit larger) to the cubed papitas New Mexican restaurants serve.\u00a0 The caramelized corn was terrific, too.<\/p>\n

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Downtown Charcuterie Board<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

27 September 2024<\/strong>: Our inaugural visit to Ex Novo transpired on my Kim’s birthday.\u00a0 What she wanted most on her special day was charcuterie.\u00a0 Ex Novo offers two versions of its Downtown Charcuterie Plate<\/strong><\/em> (Heidi\u2019s organic raspberry and poblano pepper jam, Aleppo pepper and agave, cured meats and local cheeses, crispy yucca, bread and sticks, pi\u00f1on brittle and whipped sweet chile tofu).\u00a0 \u00a0Every element in this board was exceptional.\u00a0 I even allowed myself a sweet indulgence by scarfing up all the pi\u00f1on brittle.<\/p>\n

Ex Novo is justifiably proud of the charcuterie plate, but even more proud of the items prepared in-house.\u00a0 Our server raved about the whipped sweet chile tofu which won me over, too.\u00a0 The pickled onions, dill pickles and tomatoes were also among his favorites.\u00a0 In recent years, New Mexico has acquired a stellar reputation for its cheeses–and not exclusively those made in Tucumcari.\u00a0 As a bona fide turophile, I could practically live on cheeses, particularly the stinky, veiny type.\u00a0 \u00a0Happy birthday, my Kim.<\/p>\n

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Ex Novo Beer Can Arroz con Pollo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

27 September 2024<\/strong>: One commonality among many of us scions of Spain is being weaned on arroz con pollo.\u00a0 During my years in Boston, I had several Puerto Rican friends who would invite me to their homes for plates brimming with arroz con pollo, often with chicken.\u00a0 Chef Qui\u00f1ones, himself of Puerto Rican lineage, added beans (cooked with bacon, onions and tomatoes) to Ex Novo’s version of arroz con pollo<\/strong><\/em> (all-natural crispy skin chicken thighs, basmati rice, red beans).\u00a0 For the both of us, arroz con pollo is a quintessential comfort food, one that warms the heart.<\/p>\n

During an visit to the kitchen, I was tempted to walk away with the large pot of red beans simmering on the stove.\u00a0 For as much as I enjoyed every item we were served, I grew up feasting on pinto beans and still consider them a favorite, memory-triggering food.\u00a0 Rice has the same effect, but to a lesser degree.\u00a0 Then there’s the crispy skin chicken thighs, as moist, tender and juicy as they can be.\u00a0 More than any dish we enjoyed (and we loved them all), the arroz con pollo seemed the most approachable and “down home” to me.<\/p>\n

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Chop Chop Salad<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

17 January 2025<\/strong>:\u00a0 In the stone age when I grew up, salads were a rather monotonous affair.\u00a0 Iceberg lettuce was the only leafy green in the mountainous bowls of salads I enjoyed, especially when covered liberally with blue cheese dressing.\u00a0 Over the years, salads have been reimagined.\u00a0 No longer are salad savants restricted to iceberg lettuce.\u00a0 There’s a vibrant and diverse world of lettuce varieties with which to construct salads.\u00a0 Those varieties offer unique flavor profiles, colors and textures.\u00a0 Your only limit is imagination.<\/p>\n

In January, 2025, Ex Novo’s menu introduced the addition of two salads: a kale salad and a chop chop salad<\/strong><\/em>.\u00a0 Ex Novo’s version of a chop salad is outstanding.\u00a0 \u00a0As you know, a chop salad is just what the name implies: all flavors and textures snuggled comfortably together and complementing each other–an entire salad in each and every forkful.\u00a0 Ex Novo’s chop chop is just that: salami, Provolone cheese, honey-bacon, grilled onion, tomato, herbed ranch and bleu cheese crumbles.\u00a0 It’s a delicious work of art on a plate.\u00a0 And if you’re tired of frisee, radiccio, spinach and other “designer” lettuce, the chop chop salad is made with Romaine.<\/p>\n

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The Copycat Burger<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

17 January 2025<\/strong>:\u00a0 In 2018, I was fortunate enough to have been invited to serve as a judge in Edible’s Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown<\/strong><\/a>, one of the state’s most prestigious culinary events.\u00a0 Judges were cautioned not to eat too much of any one burger so as not to be full when the next of eight burgers reached us.\u00a0 Thankfully the last burger ferried to our table was from Chef Qui\u00f1ones who was participating in the Smackdown for the fifth time.\u00a0 That meant we could finish the entire burger.\u00a0 I didn’t waste any time doing so.\u00a0 Fittingly, the burger, which Chef Qui\u00f1ones christened the “Green Chile Honey Bomb” earned top honors in the competition.<\/p>\n

Ever since I’ve been nagging Chef Qui\u00f1ones to offer that burger on the menu at the kitchens he’s led.\u00a0 He’s often told me to order the “Copycat Burger<\/strong><\/em>” (house ketchup, house mustard, honey-bacon, Tucumcari Chedar, sirloin-brisket blend) served with fries.\u00a0 I’m at the point in my advanced geriatric progression where burgers just don’t taste right (or good) without New Mexico’s sacrosanct green chile.\u00a0 So, let me make a bold proclamation.\u00a0 The Copycat Burger is THE BEST burger that doesn’t include green chile in the Land of Enchantment.\u00a0 It’s moist, juicy, packed with bacon and it’s absolutely delicious.\u00a0 Every bite brought joy to my taste buds.\u00a0 This burger is so good, it would be competitive in a green chile cheeseburger competition–even without the green chile.\u00a0 What a find!\u00a0 Yes, the Copycat Burger would be better with green chile, but then so would just about any other food.<\/p>\n

Desserts<\/strong><\/h2>\n
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EggNogg Tres Leches Cheesecake<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

27 September 2024<\/strong>: Not every restaurant the caliber of Ex Novo can boast of world-class desserts to top off an incomparable meal.\u00a0 Sous chef Meghan Lewis ferried two “better than a birthday cake” desserts to our table.\u00a0 First was a fabulous eggnogg tres leches cheesecake<\/strong><\/em> (eggnogg cr\u00e8me Anglaise, five pepper raspberry puree).\u00a0 I had one forkful before visiting the kitchen to commend the staff for a tremendous early dinner.\u00a0 My Kim told me it was one of the best desserts she’s ever had.\u00a0 She’s the dessert person in our family so I’ll have to take her word for it.<\/p>\n

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Giant Macaron<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

27 September 2024<\/strong>: Similarly, I had a small nibble of the giant macaron<\/strong><\/em> resembling a whoopie pie on steroids.\u00a0 Spelling isn’t the only difference between\u00a0 macarons and macaroons.\u00a0 A macaron is a meringue-based sandwich cookie that requires multiple steps and painstaking precision to prepare.\u00a0A macaroon is a drop cookie made with shredded coconut. A batch of macaroons is very easy to prepare.\u00a0 Macarons also tend to be more expensive because they’re made with almond flour which is up to nine times as expensive as regular flour.\u00a0 Ex Novo’s giant macaron has gigantic flavors to go with its prodigious size.<\/p>\n

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Blood Orange Sorbet<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

17 January 2025:\u00a0<\/strong>\u00a0 If you’re wondering what the difference is between Italian ice and sorbet, let me turn it over to Real Simple<\/strong><\/a>: “Granitas (Italian ices) have ingredients that are identical to sorbet\u2014pureed fruit (or juice), sugar, and water\u2014but they differ in texture. Unlike sorbet, which is smooth-churned, granita is scraped repeatedly during the freezing process, loosening its structure into icy flakes<\/em>.”\u00a0 In addition to four desserts, Ex Novo’s menu offers a sorbet.\u00a0 During our visit, the winter sorbet offering was blood orange<\/strong><\/em>.\u00a0 Talk about refreshing.\u00a0 Though listed as a winter sorbet, you can picture yourself enjoying this sorbet all year round, maybe especially in the summer.<\/p>\n

Summary<\/strong><\/h1>\n

I would be remiss if I didn’t acknowledge the superb service at Ex Novo.\u00a0 Shelby, a shift manager, in particular, is amazing.\u00a0 Not only does she put up with my constant ogling of her beautiful freckles without turning me in for harassment, she’s ambassadorial about the restaurant and very knowledgeable about the menu.\u00a0 Trust her recommendations, enjoy her humor and warmth.\u00a0 She’s a treasure.<\/p>\n

Ex Novo’s website says it best: “This isn’t just any brewery\u2014it’s a high-end experience, providing an unparalleled atmosphere and culinary delight<\/em>.”\u00a0 It’s destined to be one of Albuquerque’s most popular restaurants.\u00a0 It’s destined for greatness.<\/p>\n

Ex Novo Brewing Company
\n<\/strong>701 Central Avenue,\u00a0 N.W.
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\n(505) 633-9113<\/a><\/strong>
\nWebsite<\/strong><\/a> | Facebook Page<\/strong><\/a>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 17 January 2025
\n1st VISIT<\/strong>: 27 September 2024
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 2
\nRATING<\/strong>: Outstanding<\/strong><\/span>\u2013A stand-out; delivers a memorable dining experience through a harmonious blend of exceptional food, attentive service, and consistent quality
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$$$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Churrasco Steak & Potatoes, Carne Adovada Egg Rolls, Blood Orange Sorbet, Sweet Fennel Sausage Orechiette, Giant Macaron, EggNogg Tres Leches Cheesecake, Ex Novo Beer Can Arroz con Pollo, Downtown Charcuterie Board,
\nREVIEW #1424<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

After years of design and construction, Ex Novo new taproom and restaurant opened its doors in July, 2024.\u00a0 The 11,500-square-foot edifice is broken into two levels.\u00a0 On the first level, you’ll find\u00a0 the restaurant, kitchen, taproom, indoor seating and a large patio.\u00a0 A full-service bar with food service can be found upstairs in the spectacular mezzanine.\u00a0 A large outdoor patio accommodates one-hundred guests and will eventually provide live music.\u00a0 \u00a0An adjacent \u00a0cafe and deli called Sammy\u2019s Cafe & Deli.opened in October, 2024. Sammie’s offers an all-day breakfast menu as well as some of the most sought-after sandwiches imaginable (a pastrami reuben, banh mi, Italian, etc.) Brought in to lead Ex Novo during its founding was Marc Qui\u00f1ones, one of the…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":69318,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,134,112,141,561],"tags":[4663,4397,4409,4408,2114,4398,4662,4399,4401,4400,4405,4402,3882,4404,1060,903,4406,4407,4660,1551,4396,4395],"class_list":["post-68341","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-fine-dining","category-new-mexican","category-new-mexico","category-rating-outstanding","tag-blood-orange-sorbet","tag-carne-adovada-egg-rolls","tag-chef-meghan-lewis","tag-chef-miles-anderson","tag-chop-chop-salad","tag-churrasco-steak-potatoes","tag-copycat-burger","tag-downtown-charcuterie-board","tag-eggnogg-tres-leches-cheesecake","tag-ex-novo-beer-can-arroz-con-pollo","tag-from-scratch","tag-giant-macaron","tag-james-beard-foundation-best-chef-southwest-semifinalist-2024","tag-james-beard-house","tag-marc-quinones","tag-outdoor-patio","tag-owner-joel-gregory","tag-sammies","tag-shelby","tag-small-plates","tag-sweet-fennel-sausage-orecchiette-pasta","tag-the-running-chef"],"yoast_head":"\nEx Novo Brewing Co. - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=68341\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Ex Novo Brewing Co. - Albuquerque, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"After years of design and construction, Ex Novo new taproom and restaurant opened its doors in July, 2024.\u00a0 The 11,500-square-foot edifice is broken into two levels.\u00a0 On the first level, you’ll find\u00a0 the restaurant, kitchen, taproom, indoor seating and a large patio.\u00a0 A full-service bar with food service can be found upstairs in the spectacular mezzanine.\u00a0 A large outdoor patio accommodates one-hundred guests and will eventually provide live music.\u00a0 \u00a0An adjacent \u00a0cafe and deli called Sammy\u2019s Cafe & Deli.opened in October, 2024. 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