{"id":69627,"date":"2025-02-23T00:01:13","date_gmt":"2025-02-23T06:01:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=69627"},"modified":"2026-04-12T11:32:19","modified_gmt":"2026-04-12T17:32:19","slug":"la-barbecue-austin-texas","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=69627","title":{"rendered":"La Barbecue – Austin, Texas"},"content":{"rendered":"
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La Barbecue, a 2024 Michelin Starred Restaurant. There Were Only Eight People Ahead of Me in Line at 10:10AM<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Every summer, a predictable ritual takes place. After hibernating comfortably since the previous autumn, men attired in aprons emblazoned with the slogan \u201ckiss the cook\u201d will selflessly volunteer to \u201ccook\u201d a meal. This, of course, means grilling, a decidedly masculine affectation and the only type of cooking most men can be entrusted to do. When this ritual is completed and guests are sated, lavish praise and thanks are heaped upon the \u201cchef.\u201d In truth, the only aspects of this ritual for which men are typically responsible is getting the grill lit, placing the meats on the grill and turning them (after our female better halves warn us that the meats are burning).<\/p>\n

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Sacrilege?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Normally all the preparatory work\u2014buying the food; preparing the salad, vegetables and desserts; preparing the meat for cooking; organizing plates and cutlery; preparing the plates\u2014is done by our wives and girlfriends. Ditto for the post-dining rituals\u2014clearing the table, doing the dishes and putting everything away. Insouciant clods that men are, we can\u2019t figure out why our ladies are upset when we asked how they enjoyed their \u201cnight off.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Through the Windows in the Dining Room, You Can See Lines Snaking Down The Street at 11:30<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Men love to play with fire.\u00a0 Those who get really good at it–and have a lot of patience–may eventually graduate from backyard grilling and tailgating to real barbecue, cooking meats at a low temperature and for a long time.\u00a0 \u00a0Some men love this, especially when we’ve gotten too old, fat or decrepid to participate in macho sports.\u00a0 That’s why you see so many men at competitive barbecue competitions.\u00a0 There’s a widely held belief (maybe a stereotype) that most of the competitors at such events and most barbecue joints are owned by brawny, sweaty men who are really good at shoveling beds of coals to maintain exacting temperatures.\u00a0 There just don’t seem to be a lot of women engaged in barbecue.<\/p>\n

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Beef Rib<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

It just so happens that two of the very best pitmasters in the world are from Texas. One is Tootsie Tomanetz, an octogenarian who puts most of us thirty-year-olds to shame. Her boundless energy and ineffable passion led to Snow’s BBQ<\/strong><\/a> being named the best in Texas (ergo, the universe) in 2008 by Texas Monthly Magazine. The other Texas femme flamma is Ali Clem, owner of La Barbecue in Austin.\u00a0 It’s probably no coincidence that the term “la” is the singular, feminine definite article in Spanish.\u00a0 There would be a third name on this list, but Ali Clem’s wife and partner LeAnn Mueller passed away in 2024.\u00a0 Savvy barbecue aficionados recognize the heralded name “Mueller” and indeed, LeeAnn came from barbecue royalty. She was the granddaughter of the Taylor, Texas smoked meat legend Louie Mueller, and daughter of James Beard Award-winning barbecue luminary Bobby Mueller.<\/p>\n

LeAnn and Ali opened up La Barbecue as a small food truck on South First Street in 2012.\u00a0 \u00a0The aromas emanating from their motorized conveyance had the same effect the Pied Piper’s playing had on Hamelin’s rodent population.\u00a0 Devotees queued up to enjoy the wonderful barbecue.\u00a0 In November, 2021, they launched a brick-and-mortar on East Caesar Chavez.\u00a0 The long lines followed them.\u00a0 That wasn’t lost on Texas Monthly Magazine which in 2021 named La Barbecue “one of the 50 best barbecue joints<\/strong><\/a> in Texas.” It will be interesting to see how La Barbecue being awarded a Michelin star in 2024 will affect its placement on Texas Monthly’s sacrosanct list.<\/p>\n

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Sliced Brisket Sandwich<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Learning of the legendarily lengthy lines of barbecue enthusiasts, I arrived at precisely 10:10AM on an overcast Sunday morning.\u00a0 There were already eight people in line ahead of me.\u00a0 By the time I left, the line snaked down the street.\u00a0 La Barbecue’s queueing process is orderly and constrained.\u00a0 Every group–including groups of one like me–has to be beckoned into the restaurant by the cashier.\u00a0 Place your order and you’ll witness the deft legerdemain of a guy with a very sharp knife.\u00a0 With skill and precision few of us have, he’ll slice up your meats, pile them onto your sandwich and essentially start you on your way to deliciousness.<\/p>\n

While in line, you can’t help but notice the most controversial aspect of La Barbecue.\u00a0 A neon sign displays a brazen image of a woman bearing a remarkable semblance to the Virgin Mary.\u00a0 This version depicts a heavily tatted Blessed Mother holding a meat cleaver in her right hand.\u00a0 Texas Monthly’s Barbecue Editor Daniel Vaughn<\/strong><\/a> opines: “A passerby might wonder if it\u2019s the entrance to a hipster Catholic church\u2014until they see \u201cOur Lady of Barbecue\u201d printed beneath it<\/em>.”\u00a0 In a city where a burger joint named “JewBoy” doesn’t raise anyone’s hackles, few seem to consider the imagery sacreligious.\u00a0 Maybe that’s all part of Austin’s weirdness.<\/p>\n

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The Line Extended Beyond the Range of my iPhone Camera<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Seating is limited in the dining room though there are several picnic tables under the overhang preceding the restaurant’s entrance.\u00a0 That, my friends, is another reason to arrive early.\u00a0 Another reason is to see the unmitigated expressions of sheer joy on the face of diners as they tear into hunks of meat and extricate pork from bones the size of the one that tipped over Fred Flintstone’s car.\u00a0 My beef rib<\/strong><\/em> could probably tip over some smart cars.\u00a0 It’s akin to a full roast atop a bone.\u00a0 There are bone “handles” on both sides of the rib which means, of course, you can pick it up with your hands to eat.\u00a0 The meat practically falls off the bone.\u00a0 Eating one is like a religious experience if orgiastic pleasure can be gleaned from such an experience.\u00a0 A peppery layer of sheer deliciousness lays atop a quarter-inch or so layer of unctuous fat.\u00a0 Below that you’ll find meat so sinfully good you might need to go to confession afterwards.\u00a0 At the very least, you’ll need a cold shower.\u00a0 It’s absolutely outstanding.<\/p>\n

Ordinarily a single beef rib and maybe a side or five would suffice, but with no guarantee of a future visit, I also ordered a sliced brisket sandwich<\/strong><\/em> topped with pickles and onions.\u00a0 Layers of fatty and lean brisket were nestled between sweet, soft Martin’s potato bread, the best canvas for a sandwich I’ve had in a long time.\u00a0 The brisket was of the swoon-worthy variety, as delicious as any I’ve ever had.\u00a0 The pickles had multiple personalities–the expected tanginess you find in most pickles, but also spicy, garlicky notes.\u00a0 After consuming both a behemoth beef rib and a towering brisket sandwich I was more than sated.<\/p>\n

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The Saddest Sight in Austin<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Michelin’s Texas guide<\/strong><\/a> lavishes praise on La Barbecue: “a Barbecue’s massive, custom-built pit in the backyard is the rarified workshop in which meaty miracles are realized<\/em>.”\u00a0 Meaty miracles, indeed.\u00a0 I’m a believer.<\/p>\n

La Barbecue<\/strong>
\n2401 E Cesar Chavez Street
\nAustin, Texas<\/strong>
\n(512) 605-9696
\nWebsite<\/strong><\/a> | Facebook Page<\/strong><\/a>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 23 February 2025
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 1
\nRATING<\/strong>: N\/R
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>:\u00a0 Beef Rib, Sliced Brisket Sandwich, Big Red
\nREVIEW #1456<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Every summer, a predictable ritual takes place. After hibernating comfortably since the previous autumn, men attired in aprons emblazoned with the slogan \u201ckiss the cook\u201d will selflessly volunteer to \u201ccook\u201d a meal. This, of course, means grilling, a decidedly masculine affectation and the only type of cooking most men can be entrusted to do. When this ritual is completed and guests are sated, lavish praise and thanks are heaped upon the \u201cchef.\u201d In truth, the only aspects of this ritual for which men are typically responsible is getting the grill lit, placing the meats on the grill and turning them (after our female better halves warn us that the meats are burning). Normally all the preparatory work\u2014buying the food; preparing…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":69632,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[5627,8,2836,5668,5667,35,553],"tags":[4362,4718,4739,4748,4738,4743,4744,4514,4745,4741,4742,790,4740],"class_list":["post-69627","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-2026-james-beard-foundation-best-chef-texas-semifinalist","category-barbecue","category-james-beard-award-best-chef-restaurants","category-michelin-one-star","category-restaurants-which-have-earned-michelin-honors","category-texas","category-across-america","tag-beef-rib","tag-big-red","tag-chef-ali-clem","tag-founder-ali-clem","tag-founder-leeann-mueller","tag-housemade-sausage","tag-martins-potato-bread","tag-michelin-star","tag-our-lady-of-barbecue","tag-pickles","tag-priced-by-the-pound","tag-sandwiches","tag-sliced-brisket-sandwich"],"yoast_head":"\nLa Barbecue - Austin, Texas - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=69627\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"La Barbecue - Austin, Texas - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Every summer, a predictable ritual takes place. After hibernating comfortably since the previous autumn, men attired in aprons emblazoned with the slogan \u201ckiss the cook\u201d will selflessly volunteer to \u201ccook\u201d a meal. This, of course, means grilling, a decidedly masculine affectation and the only type of cooking most men can be entrusted to do. When this ritual is completed and guests are sated, lavish praise and thanks are heaped upon the \u201cchef.\u201d In truth, the only aspects of this ritual for which men are typically responsible is getting the grill lit, placing the meats on the grill and turning them (after our female better halves warn us that the meats are burning). 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